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Mazda Protege5 Maintenance and Repair

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  • I have 2002 PR5 with 81500 mi on it. no problems at all until now. Driving along and the on highway 65 mph and the car starts to shake and then the tranny slips if you stay in the pedal it will just slip but if you lift and then step into it again it is fine. just paid $1800 for a total rebuild on tranny and guess what... after 200 miles it is doing the same thing. Has anyone had this problem and if so what should I do. Car is paid for and would like to keep it but myself and the tranny shop owner con not figure out this problem ...HELP
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    Ouch! You might want to go to another tranny shop for a second opinion.

    80K for a new tranny seems premature to me. Are you the original owner?
  • wa98stratwa98strat Posts: 66
    Actually the correct tire pressure (see page 10-6 ofthe owners manual) is 34psi!!!
  • boabababoababa Posts: 2
    Hey,
    Proteges seem to be known for having tranny problems. I had an older protege before this one, and the tranny went at 65k. When I got the P5, a friend of a friend at an extended warranty place said that proteges have a history of tranny problems. He might have been trying to sell me on the extended warranty (it worked), but still, he mentioned the tranny without any prompting on my part. I know this doesn't help you solve your problem, but you're not alone in this: http://www.consumeraffairs.com/automotive/mazda_trans.html
    -b
  • boabababoababa Posts: 2
    I had a minor leak around the back hatch when I got the car. My cheap fix - sticky weather stripping from home depot, cut into a thin strip and stuck to the upper side of the seal, so that when the seal is squeezed by the hatch it also sqeezes the strip. Some parts of the stripping have smooshed up, but it has survived new england weather so far...(knocking on wood)....
  • erics6erics6 Posts: 684
    Huh? Tranny problems with P5's? I've never heard of that. There were auto tranny problems on the Mazda/Ford 626/mx6/probe. Here's a link to the TSB's. Don't see anything on the auto. I've heard and experienced more issues with the manual tranny clutch chatter.

    http://web2.airmail.net/theman/protegefaq/tsb/
  • slick13slick13 Posts: 2
    I've experienced some weird electrical issues recently with my 2002 protege 5. The left turn signal stays on and won't blink only when the parking lights or headlights are on. It works fine when the lights are off. I also had the dash lights come on when I stepped on the brake pedal, even before placing the key in the ignition, or after I turned the car off and still had my foot on the brake. I'm here to find out where to start troubleshooting the problem.
  • slick13slick13 Posts: 2
    I've had the rear pads replaced twice and the rear rotors as well (warped and scored). Approx. 70,000 miles. Looks like I may have to have new pads again.
  • pro5mohpro5moh Posts: 29
    I have a 2003 Mazda Pro 5 2 44OOO Miles. Got the alignment done @ 25000 Miles.

    Recently i noticed that my Front Tires(Inner Side) along the wall are completely worn out..

    What could be the reason apart from blaming on the Wheel Alignment that i should have for it doen 7/8K Miles Before?

    Or it is just becasue of the Alignment??
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    Do you rotate your tires?
  • pro5mohpro5moh Posts: 29
    Yes, Rotation is done religiously @ every 5000 Miles
    Alignment was delayed by 7/8K Miles (Considering we should get the Alignment done every 12k Miles).
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    Rotation is done religiously every 5000 Miles

    Interesting. I would get it checked into in case it starts affecting the other tires as you do your rotation. Underinflation can cause premature wear on the outer edges of a tire.
  • pro5mohpro5moh Posts: 29
    I have decided to go with all new 4 Tires..(This is one area i hate my protege, tires are expensive and donot come very long).

    Anyways, Last time i changed from 195/50R16 to 205/50R16(BF Goodrich AT) thinking that i would get these for a longer time.

    However, wanted to know if you guys have a good feedback on ur experiences with tires..

    Do u recommend a particular tire / to stick with the original size??

    My Prorities are --
    (1)Safety
    (2)Mileage
    (3)Tread Life.

    Thanks!
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    205/50R16 BF Goodrich Traction TA are my current tires; so far very stable in both wet and dry. Also, far less expensive than the Dunlop 5000M 195/50/16 originals.
  • pro5mohpro5moh Posts: 29
    Couple of Questions..

    (1). How many miles do u have on these tires and how long do u anticipate these come??
    (2). How many miles do u get per gallon? -- Trying to see if mileage is affected by upsizing the tires..

    Thanks!
    Mohan
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    a) Brand new tires which I hope will last for about 80K km (50K miles)
    b) 25 mpg in mixed driving (this is an average over 4 years); this is also what Consumer Reports predicted this model would get; I don't believe 205/50 qualifies as an upsize of 195/50 because the rims are the same 16 inchers; there is no significant effect on the speedometer either
  • jabba1900jabba1900 Posts: 20
    Alignment should be done every 12k Miles??? :confuse: I have a 2002 with almost 100,000 kilometers on it, and I haven't had a single alignment done yet. Car handles perfectly, tire wear is even, and my mechanic tells me an alignments isn't necessary. Gawd, I love my P5! :D
  • jabba1900jabba1900 Posts: 20
    First off, as far as I know, if you want wider tires on the P5 you need to go with 205/45R16 in order to maintain approximately the same tire diameter. The 205/50R16 would be slightly too tall (50% of 205 rather than 45% of 205 sidewall height).

    About 8000 km ago I switched from my original Dunlops to Kumho ECSTA ASX (195/50-16). The tires have been great. They are quieter than the Dunlops and they siphon away water as if their lives depended on it (which it kind of does!) - I feel much safer on wet roads than with the Dunlops. Overall I'm very satisfied.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    if you want wider tires on the P5 you need to go with 205/45R16 in order to maintain approximately the same tire diameter. The 205/50R16 would be slightly too tall (50% of 205 rather than 45% of 205 sidewall height).

    Actually, 205/50/16 work fine for a number of us out there. The difference between them and the standard 195/50/16 is infinitesimal (approximately 2/10ths of an inch in sidewall height).
  • I normally wouldn't reply to this, but I do want to let you know that we have had MANY problems with our 2002 P5 and are considering selling it, but also feel bad about letting some innocent person get our lemon. We've had the ABS system break once for sure and the lights are on now indicating there is a problem with them again. Let me say as well that the ABS system failed within kms of the original warranty expiring. Fortunately something inside me convinced us to get the extended warranty right at the expiry. I am so glad we did. Like I said, the ABS was completely shot once ($2200), a bunch of the electrical system failed and has been replaced twice. I think this is where the indicators were failing. It took 3 attempts to get them fixed. Something with the steering column has been replaced twice. The dealer did a poor job installing the trailer hitch electrical, which caused some of the electrical problems. (The indicators would turn off when you brake, which is when you usually are using them!) Like has been said on other postings, the original tires don't last long. The headlights never seem to both work at the same time for long. There is some sort of loose connection that the dealer service has not been able to fix.) Overall, I am so glad that I drive a Toyota Sienna and not the P5 anymore. We are seriously considering buying a used Toyota Echo Hatch to replace the P5. My impression of Mazda is pretty poor at this point. I wouldn't recommend them to others, but I also realize that we likely got a lemon-but it still doesn't help. We have been spared around $6000 of repairs since the original warranty expired because we bought the extended warranty. The dealers around here have also been only so-so on their service.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    We have been spared around $6000 of repairs since the original warranty expired because we bought the extended warranty...
    - the ABS was completely shot once ($2200),
    - a bunch of the electrical system failed and has been replaced twice. I think this is where the indicators were failing. It took 3 attempts to get them fixed.
    - Something with the steering column has been replaced twice.
    - The dealer did a poor job installing the trailer hitch electrical, which caused some of the electrical problems.


    Wow, that is quite a sum of dollars!
    What were you towing?
  • erics6erics6 Posts: 684
    Weird stuff. Never heard of any of those issues. My P5 is the most reliable car I have ever owned.
  • Towing?!? Never used the trailer hitch in the end! It was not the best use of money for us. It's really just been a leisure car for either me to get around or my husband to get to work. We just got word today (it went to the shop this morning) that the ABS sensor in the bearings is broken, so it's replaced, with bearings. A/C had a bunch of problems that were also fixed under warranty. Headlight is burnt our AGAIN (replaced Jan 06) by the repair shop! Now they are going to keep an eye on it as we've been complaining that they burn out really frequently. I don't think we're driving it any differently than anyone else. I think we just got a lemon.
  • shriqueshrique Posts: 338
    That is a ton of repairs that I've never done to mine. I've only got 36k on mine so I can't say that much. My clutch is a little wonky but it was one of those things that they couldn't reproduce and it doesn't seem to affect the car so (shrug).

    Mines paid off so.....
  • imcndnimcndn Posts: 3
    I have a '02 Protege5. It has been acting quite strange lately. At a stop it will idle very rough and almost stall (it hasn't actually stalled yet). If I drive while the car is doing this it feels like I am driving with only three cylinders (very low power). This lasts for a few minutes and then the car rights itself. This also happens when driving at any speed. The same rough idle if I depress the clutch and noticeable loss of power. Again it lasts a few minutes.

    This happens at least daily, often multiple times a day, each time the check engine light flashes and then remains constant.

    I took it to the dealership to have it tested and was told that code P0421 was returned (catalyst bank 1 bellow efficiency).

    Two days ago I replaced the manifold catalytic converter at the dealerships recommendation. All was fine for one day and then today the check engine light flashed back on and the same rough idle near stall was encountered.

    I have read about the O2 sensors, but would they cause the idle and power loss problems I have experienced?

    Does anyone have any insight they can shed on this for me? I don't want to throw more money at the problem not knowing if it will fix the cause.

    Any help is appreciated.

    imcndn
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    I recently had my 02 P5 in the shop for similar symptoms.
    When I described the situation to the service rep (check engine light appears; rough while idling at a stop) he said: "It's probably your EGR valve, we replace lots of them as they get fouled my dirty gasoline." The technician ran a diagnostic and reported a P300 code (random cylinder misfire detected); a new EGR was installed (curiously the EGR malfunction codes are in the P400 range). Since then the P5 has been working properly. I have also heard that it is wise to get a throttle body cleaning every couple of years to clean out the gunk.

    I would report back to the dealer that the problem persists and you're not a happy camper. I'd try to get the dealer to do another diagnostic without charge and get an estimate of what is required to fix the problem. If you're not convinced that they know how to solve the problem, you may want to call another dealership and ask them what they recommend. Or, seek out the expertise of an independent shop that is recommended by friends/colleagues.

    Best of luck and keep us updated.
  • laverne5laverne5 Posts: 3
    Finally, I've found someone with the same symptoms I'm having with my '02 P5! About 4 weeks ago, started having problem starting (starts but takes a bit to turn over). Same time, a rough idle started - you can watch the tach jump up and down and hear it rev at idle, feels like it's going to stall at stop lights, etc. Replaced air filter, changed oil and oil filter, tried fuel injector cleaner, checked pcv valve - no difference. 1 week later, check engine came on. Took it to dealer, they said "cylinder 1 misfire, needs engine coil and wire". $400 later I picked it up and same problems. Back at dealer they suggest new EGR and Intake Manifold Gasket totalling $700 which "might solve the problem". Next day, check engine light back on "multiple cylinder misfire". Took it to a local garage, they believe it's a vacuum leak or Intake Manifold Gasket but don't know for sure - said drive it & if it gets worse, bring it back. Went to PartSource to pick up brake pads today, and the manifold gasket... they said "no way - that gasket shouldn't be leaking". They listened and heard "hissing" under the hood - believe it's a vacuum leak. I don't really know where to start to try to find the leak and everything I've read on various forums suggests clogged ports on the EGR valve and that it can be cleaned - doesn't need to be replaced for $500. Tried everyone and everywhere... not willing to spend over $1000 for something that "might" fix the problem so if you've been through the same... please let me know what is most likely to fix it.
    Thank you!
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    Since you're in Toronto, I would strongly recommend visiting Kirk Robinson of Robinson Automotive. He is the most reliable source of automotive information. His TV programme offers a wealth of information.

    Best of luck.

    p.s. since the new EGR valve got replaced nearly three weeks ago, it's been smooth sailing.
  • dwryterdwryter Posts: 87
    When I had these problems on my '87 Civic Si, the problem was a bad idle control valve. Dunno if it's the same problem on your P5, but the symptoms sure sound the same. Might want to call the dealer and ask if a mechanic might weigh in on this as a possible cause, along with an estimate. I had to replace it on the Honda twice over the 16 years I owned it. Cost, I believe, was $140 at the dealer the first time, $80 at an independant the second.

    Best of luck and please report back.
  • imcndnimcndn Posts: 3
    I am still fighting with this issue. The P5 is going into the dealership tomrrow.

    I will post what happens.

    imcndn
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