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Mazda Protege5 Maintenance and Repair

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  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    I agree with iamz that this sounds like the caliper. You might be able to diagnose this by touching the inside portion (that is, the side facing inward towards the centre of the car) of the disc brake. According to a service advisor most of the damage of the discs happens there and not on the outside where most of us look.
  • Happy Conclusion - after learning from this site that the rust was not a widespread problem, I took the car back to the glass installer. They looked at the problem, immediately said it was their problem and offered to fix it at no charge. They will take out the glass, diagnose where they went wrong and then have the rust taken care of. Refreshing approach to customer service that sadly is missing at most places today.
  • That's great they treated you so well. I hope they do a great job with the repair. Will repainting be required?

    A place like that deserves a good plug. How about providing their name and the city the place is in?
  • About 10 months ago while traveling about 60 mph the car hesitated. The engine light came on within about a minute. Had it reset. Did 60,000 mile tune-up. After, the hesitation followed by engine light recurred. The dealership replaced EGR valve ($150 + $350 labor). Within week light reappeared. Dealership replaced cat. Light came on again but this time flashed and then solid. Light was reset next morning. Two months later car hesitated, followed by flashing and then solid engine light. Two weeks later another occurrence. How has yours been since your friend cleaned it? Anyone have a suggestion?
  • I just wanted to report back that I have found and fixed the problem (for now that is). It turns out that the caliper was sliding fine, but the outside pad was stuck on the rotor and wasn't able to "slide" back.
    I removed some built up brake dust and it made it better, then I scraped off the paint on the pad. Slides pretty good right now and haven't noticed any more heat. The pad did wear pretty significantly and will probably have to replace within a few months.
  • My Pro5 has been doing fine after my friend cleaned the EGR Valve. Rarely, maybe once a month, it is slow in ramping from 0mph to 60 mi, but even idling is back to before this whole "car-rocking" sympton happens. Engine light was never on again. My suggestion is to get the error code read whenever the engine light comes on and don't blindly fix whatever the dealer tells you. Some people have said that the the engine light controller can become faulty and turn on for no reason. Other cases, there's really a problem in the car. Especially if you have the code, and if after dealer fix it and the code reapperas, you can hold this evidence to make them "finish the job" and not charge you something that's totally unrelated.

    By the way, my car actually have no problem travelling at high speed like the 60mph you mentioned. it always doesn't have much power at high speed anyways cos the engine is small :( I had problem when the car was idling or at very very slow speed when the EGR valve is faulty. I think it should be closed at low speed so air is not recycled into the engine for re-combustion. I believe it was stuck open and letting air in so the enging choke for not having enough power with outside air diluting the fuel content etc... Good Luck with your fixes!
  • I have a 2002 Protege5 with approx 95,000 miles.

    Last week, I attempted to start the car with no success, just a clicking noise. When I popped the hood, I discovered the the positive battery cable end had completely disenigrated (leaving a white powder on most of the surfaces on the driver's side of the engine bay).

    I cleaned the battery post and purchased a new battery cable end. I spliced battery cable and attached the new end which seemed to solve the problem. Until the next day when the car again would not start.

    Upon closer inspection, I discovered the "powdery corrosion" had crept down to the inside of the battery cable. I detached the new end and tapped the cable on a hard surface to remove the powder from the inside of the cable; up on reattaching the end, the car started and ran normally.

    It seems that I should replace the entire battery cable - and maybe the even battery (for good measure).

    I contacted my local Mazda dealer to price out a new battery cable, with no luck. The parts rep. stated that there was "no such part listed" in their computer system. The only thing that came close in his system was a $450 "engine harness".

    Has anyone else experienced this problem, or maybe know where I can get a new battery cable?

    Thanks in advance for any help & advice!

    P.S. - I've replaced the lowbeam bulbs in this car countless times! (at least 1 bulb per calendar quarter) I have the scars on my hands to prove it! ...so annoying!

    image

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  • iamziamz Posts: 542
    Your battery must have leaked (and is leaking) acid onto the connector. You should be able to buy a generic cable at any parts store (and a new battery). Check to see if your battery is secure in the holder. I found that mine was loose earlier this summer and the battery could slide front to back easily.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    Wow, what a mess!
  • erics6erics6 Posts: 684
    New generic cable and battery from Costco or ??? and you'll be set.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,630
    I'd also have your alternator checked for overcharging....

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  • iamziamz Posts: 542
    Good point. Overcharging could have caused the battery to boil over and leak acid.
  • Did you ever resolve this issue? I'm having the exact same problem with my protoge 5 and my mechanic and I are working on making an educated guess before we start replacing parts,

    thanks
  • I have a 2002 P5, and last winter (in Maryland), during a standard fill up sometime in December '05, I could only pump about half of a gallon of gas at a time before it would back-fill and overflow. Between each half gallon, I had to wait about 10-15 seconds to let that gallon settle. It wasn't a full tank issue, because I could keep doing this up to the full 10-11 gallons I was down.

    This problem continued every single fillup until I drove the car to Florida on a trip for the holidays. In southern Virginia the thermistat broke and stuck close. I limped the car to a mechanic who repaired that problem and the gas fillup problem disappeared as well, though the mechanic said he didn't touch anything else other than the coolant system.

    It remained gone for about 2 weeks upon return to Maryland, then it dumped snow one day and the problem came back. This time it didn't go away until late March when it warmed back up again.

    During this time, I took it to 2 different mechanics I trust, one who disassembled the entire fuel tank and filler components and didn't find a problem. Everything was lubricated fine and free from damage or defect. The second mechanic put a camera down the filler tube, trying to see if there was any issue that way, and could not detect anything wrong.

    Now I have moved to Rhode Island, and it first snowed up here yesterday, and today the problem returned. Half a tank at a time.

    This is really frustrating me, and wouldn't be so bad if it only happened in warm weather. The cold and the moisture HAVE to have something to do with it (freezing something in place?), but I can't figure out what or why, or how to fix it.

    Any help anyone can give is much appreciated.
  • iamziamz Posts: 542
    Do you fill your tank with the engine off or running?
  • erics6erics6 Posts: 684
    Sounds like the charcoal evaporator canister. I remember my old Saab had that problem. Gets fuel soaked. I’m assuming your mechanics have checked that.
  • [Do you fill your tank with the engine off or running? ]

    Off, always off. Not going to risk a fire.

    [Sounds like the charcoal evaporator canister. I remember my old Saab had that problem. Gets fuel soaked. I’m assuming your mechanics have checked that.]

    Actually, I have no idea. I only know somewhat about what you are refering to, (cleans fuel vapors from exhaust?) but had no idea it was so close in proximity, and even directly connected.

    Is this something that I can just replace the canister and it will fix the problem? or what steps may I have to go through. If you had the problem before, than you are the only one that I have heard having the problem other than me, so relying on your experiences here :)
  • erics6erics6 Posts: 684
    It's an emissions thing. Captures the fuel vapors. It was a mid-80's Saab. I'm not sure how modern cars differ. I've never had problems with my P5.

    It was pretty common problem, so I'm guessing your mechanics would of checked. Might try one of the Protege specific forums.
  • I just posted over on the Protege forums as well.

    When your Saab had the issue, in order to fix it, did you have to repair, replace, or drain the cannister?

    'Which things did you have to do' that is.

    I obtained a technical repair manual for my P5, but it only has air leakage inspection procedures that I could find for the carbon cannister, and the diagram DOES have it back near the filler tube, but there is no direct connection that does not go through the gas tank. If there is a sensor or something that gets tripped and closes a valve or something I can see how it would still cause the issue, but I can't find any more information in the manual regarding the parts.
  • erics6erics6 Posts: 684
    I honestly don't remember the fix. I believe it required replacement. Pretty sure if the cannister is plugged, the fumes would block additional gas. Have you tried putting the gas filler nozzle in part-way. That way the fumes could escape as you fill the tank.

    It could be something different with your P5. Don't remember seeing any TSBs on the problem you are having.
  • I have tried part-way, and all that accomplishes so far is getting it to backfill farther before tripping the sensor and shutting off the pump, and I get overflow spillage.

    Depending on the pump, I may or may not get spillage from overflow by pumping at max volume for a second or two before it backfills and trips the sensor.

    Often I will just stand there and hold the pump level barely cracked open to allow minimal fuel flow. This generally allows more fuel between shut-offs, but is a strain on my hand in the cold, as I am holding it at maximum tension point for the spring.

    I fill up half a tank last night at a location I have never been to before, and the pump, at full volume, was about 1 gallon per 20 seconds, so I was able to get about 2 gallons each time before it backfilled.

    I found this in my technical repair manual:
    "27 Fuel refill concerns
    DESCRIPTION • Fuel tank does not fill smoothly.
    POSSIBLE CAUSE
    • Clogged evaporative emission pipes
    • Nonreturn valve malfunction
    • Pressure control valve malfunction
    • Improper use of fuel nozzle
    • Inadequate fuel filling speed

    Diagnostic procedure
    STEP INSPECTION RESULTS ACTION
    1 • Retrieve DTCs.
    • Are there any DTCs displayed?
    Yes Go to appropriate DTC test.
    No Go to next step.
    2 • Remove fuel-filler pipe.
    • Make sure nonreturn valve is installed
    properly.
    • Inspect nonreturn valve operation.
    • Is nonreturn valve okay?
    Yes Inspect following:
    • Improper use of fuel nozzle
    • Inadequate fuel filling speed
    • Pressure control valve
    No If nonreturn valve is installed improperly:
    • Reinstall nonreturn valve to proper position.
    If nonreturn valve does not operate properly:
    • Replace non return valve.
    3 • Verify test results.
    — If okay, return to diagnostic index to service any additional symptoms.
    — If malfunction remains, refer to related Service Bulletins and perform repair or diagnosis.
    • If vehicle is repaired, troubleshooting completed.
    • If vehicle is not repaired or additional diagnostic information is not available, replace PCM."

    If the last two mechanics were not lying to me, then the return valve is clean, clear, and lubricated. I am inclined to agree with them, since if it wasn't, I would be having this problem all the time, not just when it was freezing cold.

    There is no further information yet found on the "Pressure control valve malfunction", and the troubleshooting steps above clear everything but this as being the cause.

    Also, there is a chart at the beginning of the manual that lists "Evaporative emmission control system malfunction" as a possible factor with # 27 and 28, which are respectively Fuel Refill Concerns, and Fuel Shut-off Concerns. I believe that this refers to the carbon cannister, from my now improved knowledge.

    So 2 possible causes from what this is telling me.

    I found a Mazda Gold Cup dealer near me, and will be taking it to them next week to see if they can find the problem, as I feel I am much more informed as to where to point them and how to explain the problems.

    Thanks for your help.
  • erics6erics6 Posts: 684
    Sounds like you are on the right track. I haven't had much luck with Mazda dealer service, but maybe you'll get lucky and find a mechanic who has seen or is familar with your problem. Here's hoping it isn't the PCM = $$$.
  • I am experiencing the same thing. Brake light comes on intermittenly and stays on when parking brake is off. Not sure if it is related to the headlights though.
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 5,860
    I had a cracked fuse once that caused the dome light to come on when I stepped on the brake. First thing I do now if anything weird is going on electrically is to check all the fuses, even those unrelated to where the symptoms seem to be taking place.

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  • I did a search and didn't find anybody with this problem in this forum, so I hope somebody can help. At random I will get in my car and try to start it, but all I can hear is the starter turning. First time it happened I checked for spark and did not find any, so I pushed the car to a vacant part of the parking lot and left it there till I could come back and tow it home with a friend. I went back a few hours later and it started right up like nothing was wrong. Figured problem was a freak thing until it happened again a couple of days later, once again wait and start.
    Called a local dealership and they recommended checking all my relays (under hood by battery) by tapping them with a wrench, did so and found that the "green" one when tapped caused the motor to stutter. Replaced relay hoping that was the problem, but it wasn't.
    Finally it happened when I was at home and my Dad and I took of the fuel line to see if it still had pressure. Gas squirted out of the line when motor was cranked over, so I am getting fuel. Next we pulled out the relay and checked box itself and the test registered current was being sent through. Next we pulled the plugs and once again no spark.
    Finally a friend (retired mechanic), said that the alternator is the problem. Somehow it cuts off the charge to the spark plugs, not sure how because he explained it to my gf and she explained it to me. Any way this didn't fix the problem either.
    I feel that I also should mention that the battery is brand new and the connections are clean and corrosion free. Also, the spark plugs and wires were changed around 10,000 miles ago. Another thing is this problem isn't throwing any OBD codes, so I can't hook up OBD computer to get any help. When I talked to Mazda and independent mechanics they said if the problem doesn't duplicate w/ them they can do nothing... in fact Mazda said they wouldn't know what to do w/out a code. Sad if you ask me.
    Any help would be greatly appreciated, for right now I am stumped. Also, sorry for the long post, thanks for any help.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    the alternator is the problem. Somehow it cuts off the charge to the spark plugs, not sure how

    How many miles on the car?

    My understanding is that if your battery is weak, your alternator tries to pick up the slack but over time this can affect your alternator. If you replaced the battery that does not mean you solved the problem with the alternator. I suggest you leave the car at Mazda/independent garage overnight (or longer if you can manage) and ask them to try to duplicate the problem.

    Tip: If you haven't replaced your timing belt yet, you may want to do it early. The timing belt is located close to the alternator so the mechanic can end up checking it at the same time.
  • I bought a 2003 P5 in August 2003. It has 60,000km on it (and went for the 60,000km inspection at 55,000km because of service dates) In the last month my ABS & Brake light have come on. I had the brakes replaced last year. I took the car to my mechanic, who said that the brakes are fine but couldn't figure out why the lights were on. They started coming on and then going off when i restarted the car, but now they just stay on. I'm trying to avoid going to the dealership because a) warranty has expired and b) the one close to me has a steep diagnostic fee which they won't waive even if i get the work done there.

    Has anyone else had these problems?
  • iamziamz Posts: 542
    Yes. Top off your brake fluid reservoir. If this doesn't cure it, one of your wheel sensors is acting up.
  • Hi . I have a 92 mazda protege 5 speed. lately i cannot get it started . some days it will start and others it wont,, battery seems fine, the lights work, have not been able to drive it cus it wont start again. i put the key in, and all it does is sound like it wants to start but it doesnt. any ideas? i cannot afford to take to the dealership . any ideas or suggestions are greatly appreciated.
    Cindy
  • I already replaced the alternator last week, and it ran well for around 5 days, but then it didn't start yesterday. Also, the battery is only around two to three months old. As for the miles the car, it has around 49,700 miles. I was thinking about it, does anybody think that it might be the PCM? Next time it acts up I'm going to disconnect the battery to let the computer reset itself and then try again. Also, I was thinking about changing all the fuses, figure it's cheap and that way I can rule that out. Don't think they have anything to do with this, but it seems these newer cars have problems that can stem from something that makes no sense. Thanks for taking the time to reply.
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