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Mazda Protege5 Maintenance and Repair

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  • dwryterdwryter Posts: 87
    Some time ago, Mazda issued a few TSBs (Technical Service Bulletins) on wind noise coming from the windshield, side windows, and vents, and one TSB on rough idling. I brought my 2002 P5 in for these problems and the dealer no longer had any of the TSBs on his system. He said if I can find them, he'll look into the situations. I'll do a little research to find more info about the TSBs. But meanwhile, I'm curious if anyone else has succeeded in getting either of these issues addressed under warranty and, if so, if any fixes solved the problems.
  • pciskowskipciskowski Posts: 155
    Anyone had this noise? It sounds like it is coming from the area of the spare or jack, but I have removed both and it still happens. It only happens sometimes when going over bumps, not every time.
  • chicagoprochicagopro Posts: 1,009
    Having just gone through this with my '00 sedan, I'm going to put my money on one or more of the stabilizer links needing replacing.
  • pciskowskipciskowski Posts: 155
    How much did it cost?
  • chicagoprochicagopro Posts: 1,009
    My repair might be different from yours, 'cause I needed both fronts and rears replaced. And these part numbers might be different from what you need, because again, I have a sedan (ES).

    MAZ B26R-34-170 (Link control, 9") qty. = 2 @ 45.11 each

    MAZ 9994-01-000 (nut, flange) qty. = 8 @ 3.30 each

    MAZ BJOE-28-170 (link, control-stab) qty. = 2 @ 41.74 each

    total parts = 200.10

    total labor = 228.00

    total charge = 428.10

    Please note that those parts prices are what my dealer actually charged me...about 25% to 30% above Mazda suggested retail. My dealer also went a little crazy with the labor charges.

    YMMV.
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 5,854
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  • pciskowskipciskowski Posts: 155
    Took it to the dealer today - you were correct. Funny how when I took it in for the same noise under warrarty it was the jack, and now that it is out of warranty it is $300.
  • chicagoprochicagopro Posts: 1,009
    Sorry to hear it cost you so much; on the other hand, you made out better than I did. :)

    How many did they replace?
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    Or extended warranty?

    Meade
  • kauai215kauai215 Posts: 190
    You wrote:
    "Funny how when I took it in for the same noise under warranty it was the jack, and now that it is out of warranty it is $300."

    LOL! This must be one of the best summaries I've seen of auto problems! It might well sway a judge in small claims court. I'll borrow this and store it for possible future use, if I may. :-)

    Thanks -- and my commiseration.
  • pciskowskipciskowski Posts: 155
    I didn't get an extended warranty, because my experience is that they only cover things that aren't broken, and everything else is "normal wear and tear".
  • dagpotterdagpotter Posts: 71
    I would like to replace my plugs in the P5. I have all the stuff, but is there anything I have to watch out for. I assume I have to unbolt the condenser units on top of the two plugs. Also, what is the gap for the sparkplugs?

    Thanks.
  • iamziamz Posts: 542
    Use compressed air to remove any sand or grit prior to removal of plugs. Use a torque wrench when installing new plugs. If you over-tighten them, the threads in the head will strip out and you will spend $2800 for a new head. If you under-tighten them the plug will move up and down and shear off the threads in the head and you will spend $2800 for a new head.

    Also, the torque wrench is meaningless if the threads aren't clean and you can never be sure the threads are clean.

    Have fun.
  • Have 2002 Protege5 that has about 36K miles on it. About 2K miles ago it started to make a high pitch squealing noise after being driven for about 15 minutes on county highways, no gravel. When the brakes are applied, the squealing will stop but most times will return when I stop braking. Had the brakes checked all the way around at tire service center and dealer and both agreed brakes are still good. This squeal does not happen all the time, so far about 60% of the time. The noise will oftentimes go away on its own during driving. If the noise is present and then the car is stopped, often it will not return but sometimes does. This is a really annoying problem because it is so unpredictable and it would not make the noise for the dealer tech when he drove it.

    We think the noise is coming from the front passenger wheel. Has anybody had a similar problem?
  • cdnp5cdnp5 Posts: 163
    dmiller1 -- Its funny how you bring this up now as we were just talking about this on the regular P5 section. I had this exact issue last year and then found out that it was my rear brakes sticking. I also thought the sound was coming from the front but could never find anything wrong. Then I took my car in for an oil change at the dealer and they said that the one set of rear brake pads were almost gone and the other are on there way out. You might want to get them check the pins in the rear brakes.
    Also read the regular P5 section for more info about this.
  • cdnp5- I think I found the posting you are referring to in the regular p5 section. Just to verify - you heard the squeal during forward driving, i.e. not when the brakes were applied? That is the case with this problem plus when the brakes are applied the squeal goes away while they are applied. Usually the squeal returns but not always.

    As for whether it is coming from the front or rear, we too have debated it. Sometimes it sounds like the front and other times we have thought rear. Just seemed like more times it sounded like the front.

    Thanks for sharing your experience.
  • oskwioskwi Posts: 88
    I had the same exact experience with my 2001 Protege ES. After driving awhile, I would get this sqealing noise coming from the rear passenger side of the car. When the brakes were applied, the sqealing would stop...sometimes it would happen again and sometimes not! I called for a dealership appointment early one week, and on Friday of that same week, I applied the brakes and almost rear-ended someone in a construction zone because the brakes locked up...then the ABS and brake light appeared on the dash and the sqeaking became unbearable! I was the most surprised person to have this happen on bone dry pavement. Anyway, if you actually turned off the car and restarted it, the ABS and brake light would go off and the sqeaking would disappear. Then after about ten or so miles, the sqeak would get remarkably louder and then the ABS and brake light would appear on the dash. (The brakes never locked up again though.) This was the cycle of the sqeaking until I took it in for my service appointment. It ended up being a faulty ABS sensor and was covered under the warranty. Every car I have ever owned with ABS has had at least one of the sensors replaced in the early 30,000 mile range! If your problem is truly an ABS sensor, and you have not had any ABS warning lights appear on your dash, the techs would have a difficult time pinpointing the cause of the squealing. Since my ABS light came on, there was a code stored in the computer...at least that's what I was told. Even though the light would "re-set" itself and not reappear on my dash after startup, the techs were able to see the stored problem code.

    Hope this helps with your diagnosis! Good Luck!
  • cdnp5cdnp5 Posts: 163
    dmiller1 -- Basically this is what happened and it only happened twice. Plus it both times I was on the highway, never in the city. Both times it sounded like the front to me even though it was the rear. But it is hard to hear noises while driving as they bounce off everything.
    Hopefully you find the source of your problem. But do get them to check the rears as if it goes too long, you will end up having to replace more than the pads.
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