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Mazda Protege5 Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • erics6erics6 Posts: 684
    Take it to another mechanic. Check engine light is not connected to brakes. I think the brake light comes on when you are low on brake fluid. Brake pads should last for more than 17K. I'm still on my originals with 61K.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    As erics6 noted Brake pads should last for more than 17K.

    Did your mechanic mention the source of the problem? Some dealers point to seized calipers so that you end up driving on your brakes and wearing them prematurely. I had mine lubricated after the second year and they're still going strong (touch wood!). I'd get a second opinion since the cost of replacing all four discs could be pricey.

    I'm still on my originals with 61K.
    That's terrific!
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    Pads, that is. For the first time.

    At 55,000 miles.

    Meade
  • erics6erics6 Posts: 684
    My front rotors did need resurfacing. :-( Pads are fine though. I think my front rotors are going to have to be replaced when I do the pads.

    Two biggest issues I've heard of with the P5 are warped rotors and a hotspot on the clutch. Both issues I've experienced. Overall, a very low maintenance car.
  • Sorry, I meant the brake light on my dash comes on. . not my engine light
  • iamziamz Posts: 542
    I see. Thanks Meade. At least someone reads their owners manual. Rather not have it do that though. I'm still left wondering why the AC light does not come on at that setting. Hmmmm. Maybe I should just read the owners manual.
  • dwryterdwryter Posts: 87
    Eric, can you please describe the symptom and solution/cost of the clutch hotspot?

    Thanks.

    > Two biggest issues I've heard of with the P5 are warped rotors and a hotspot on the clutch.
  • I have had my 02 protege5 since May 2002. I purchased it brand new. 11 months later, after having only put about 15 000 kms on it, I brought it back to the dealership because it was making a strange noise. The dealership came back and told me that the rear calipers had seized, and that all 4 brake pads needed to be changed! After 15 000 kms!!!! I brought to a different mechanic, he managed to salavage the calipers, as well as the front pads, but I had to have new ones put on the rear. The mechanic couldn 't believe the unusual wear on the pads and even asked if I had been driving around with my e-brake on, which I never had.

    Since then, I've had to have my front pads changed, and just had to replace my rear ones AGAIN... the rear calipers had seized again... and the rotors were really worn. I priced out new calipers for it, and they're $141 each.

    In general, I LOVE my car, but I definitely think that what's happened with my brakes in 3.5 years is quite unusual, and makes me think it's a defect with the car. I'm new the the forum, but am just wondering if anyone has experienced similar problems with their brakes on their P5.
  • erics6erics6 Posts: 684
    I've heard of the brake caliper issue before on other forums. Don't know why you would replace the front pads if the problem is on the rear. There was TSB on it.

    Symptoms and Conditions Some customers may experience rear brake noise and/or dragging rear brake pads due to the accumulation of rust on the rear brake mounting supports.
    Repair Procedure
    When you encounter this concern, replace rear brake pads with improved parts and remove rust from caliper supports. The brake pads have been modified to increase the clearance between pads and mounting supports from 0.15-0.80 to 0.30.80. New Part No. BKYT-26-43ZB (Rear Brake Pads with Hardware)

    The hotspot on the clutch doesn't fit the cold start clutch chatter in the Mazda service bulletin. Mine only chatters when it is hot or the clutch is being used a lot (like bumper to bumper traffic). Mine's way past warranty, so I'll live with it until it gets too bad to ignore.
  • Both of my local Mazda dealers are charging a $60 diagnostic fee on top of any repairs they do. I have never heard of this before in 25 years of owning cars. Is this something new or a new rip off?
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    Mine charges a diagnostic fee (for some repair jobs), and I can't remember what it is ($60 sounds a little steep), but I've heard it's "refunded" (i.e., not charged) if you go ahead and get the repair done. I guess they do this to keep people from taking up their time "checking" stuff that might not be bad in the first place -- and to keep "tuner" kids from clogging up their service departments getting tests done for the sake of performance add-ons.

    Meade
  • Yesterday I was driving my new-to-me 2002 P5 and noticed the brake light on the dash was on. I checked the emergency/parking brake, but it was off. When I got to my destination I put the car in park and tried putting the brake on and then off again to see if maybe that would turn the dash brake light off. The light stayed on but I noticed a new WEIRD problem... with the car turned off and no key in the ignition, the parking brake was turning the headlights on and off (if the brake was on, the headlights were on, if the brake was off, so were the headlights). I started the car again and this time no brake light on the dash and the headlight thing stopped happening. When I drove back home though, the brake light on the dash came back on. I can't make the brake work the headlights any more but the brake light on the dash comes on all the time now. It seems to me like there's a wire crossed or something, but it didn't seem to be doing this before. My car is still under the factory warranty for another few months... any chance this sort of thing is covered? Thanks very much for any ideas.
  • erics6erics6 Posts: 684
    Check your brake fluid level. Low level will make e-brake light come on. Also, could be e-brake is stuck on... rear e-brake drum or out of adjustment cable? Not sure I understand your description. Do you have daytime running lights?
  • iamziamz Posts: 542
    If the previous owner didn't mess with the wiring, I'm sure your problem will be covered under warranty.
  • As a further to my first message, I also found out that the brake light on the dash only comes on when we turn the headlights on... so if we turn on the headlights, the brake light on the dash turns on and if we set the brake, the headlights come on :) At least now there's a connection... must be a crossed wire or something.
  • Alloy rims are rusting to hell (going to inquire into that today). Was told by the dealership that I had to get the front brakes and rotors replaced. Is this normal at 48,000 km??
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    Brake rotors: 60,000 km (36,000 miles)
    Disc Brake calipers/pad: 30,000 km (18,000 miles)
    From: Phil Edmonston's Lemon-Aid Used Cars and Minivans 2005 (Toronto : Viking). Well-known author/consumer advocate/media personality. Lists ”what most automakers consider is reasonable durability, as expressed by their original and ‘goodwill’ warranties”.

    Disc brakes: 40,000 km (25,000 miles)
    From: Dan Ramsey's The Complete idiot's guide to trouble-free car care.

    Resurfacing a rotor is an option; personally I would get new ones at this stage (48K km). My brakes and rotors are still holding up well after 62K km (37K miles).

    Are you driving the car hard? Do you live in the snow belt or close to one of the sea coasts?
  • Bought my Protege5 2002 in June and love it. When I acquired it, the driver door panel rattled, the dealer fixed it, and now it's back to rattling again (unless I lean on it with my elbow!) Anyone have this problem who can offer a solution?
  • Is it as simple as tightening up the screws that hold the door panel on? There is about 5 for each door and some are hidden behind screw caps. If you need to get inside the door, the interior door handle itself pops off to access more screws, but sometimes needs alot of force to come off. Be careful not to break it.
  • I have the same rattles, and my headliner sqeaks where it meets the gasket around the door opening. Any help with these two issues?
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