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Mazda Protege5 Maintenance and Repair



  • I have tried part-way, and all that accomplishes so far is getting it to backfill farther before tripping the sensor and shutting off the pump, and I get overflow spillage.

    Depending on the pump, I may or may not get spillage from overflow by pumping at max volume for a second or two before it backfills and trips the sensor.

    Often I will just stand there and hold the pump level barely cracked open to allow minimal fuel flow. This generally allows more fuel between shut-offs, but is a strain on my hand in the cold, as I am holding it at maximum tension point for the spring.

    I fill up half a tank last night at a location I have never been to before, and the pump, at full volume, was about 1 gallon per 20 seconds, so I was able to get about 2 gallons each time before it backfilled.

    I found this in my technical repair manual:
    "27 Fuel refill concerns
    DESCRIPTION • Fuel tank does not fill smoothly.
    • Clogged evaporative emission pipes
    • Nonreturn valve malfunction
    • Pressure control valve malfunction
    • Improper use of fuel nozzle
    • Inadequate fuel filling speed

    Diagnostic procedure
    1 • Retrieve DTCs.
    • Are there any DTCs displayed?
    Yes Go to appropriate DTC test.
    No Go to next step.
    2 • Remove fuel-filler pipe.
    • Make sure nonreturn valve is installed
    • Inspect nonreturn valve operation.
    • Is nonreturn valve okay?
    Yes Inspect following:
    • Improper use of fuel nozzle
    • Inadequate fuel filling speed
    • Pressure control valve
    No If nonreturn valve is installed improperly:
    • Reinstall nonreturn valve to proper position.
    If nonreturn valve does not operate properly:
    • Replace non return valve.
    3 • Verify test results.
    — If okay, return to diagnostic index to service any additional symptoms.
    — If malfunction remains, refer to related Service Bulletins and perform repair or diagnosis.
    • If vehicle is repaired, troubleshooting completed.
    • If vehicle is not repaired or additional diagnostic information is not available, replace PCM."

    If the last two mechanics were not lying to me, then the return valve is clean, clear, and lubricated. I am inclined to agree with them, since if it wasn't, I would be having this problem all the time, not just when it was freezing cold.

    There is no further information yet found on the "Pressure control valve malfunction", and the troubleshooting steps above clear everything but this as being the cause.

    Also, there is a chart at the beginning of the manual that lists "Evaporative emmission control system malfunction" as a possible factor with # 27 and 28, which are respectively Fuel Refill Concerns, and Fuel Shut-off Concerns. I believe that this refers to the carbon cannister, from my now improved knowledge.

    So 2 possible causes from what this is telling me.

    I found a Mazda Gold Cup dealer near me, and will be taking it to them next week to see if they can find the problem, as I feel I am much more informed as to where to point them and how to explain the problems.

    Thanks for your help.
  • erics6erics6 Posts: 684
    Sounds like you are on the right track. I haven't had much luck with Mazda dealer service, but maybe you'll get lucky and find a mechanic who has seen or is familar with your problem. Here's hoping it isn't the PCM = $$$.
  • I am experiencing the same thing. Brake light comes on intermittenly and stays on when parking brake is off. Not sure if it is related to the headlights though.
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 5,854
    I had a cracked fuse once that caused the dome light to come on when I stepped on the brake. First thing I do now if anything weird is going on electrically is to check all the fuses, even those unrelated to where the symptoms seem to be taking place.

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  • I did a search and didn't find anybody with this problem in this forum, so I hope somebody can help. At random I will get in my car and try to start it, but all I can hear is the starter turning. First time it happened I checked for spark and did not find any, so I pushed the car to a vacant part of the parking lot and left it there till I could come back and tow it home with a friend. I went back a few hours later and it started right up like nothing was wrong. Figured problem was a freak thing until it happened again a couple of days later, once again wait and start.
    Called a local dealership and they recommended checking all my relays (under hood by battery) by tapping them with a wrench, did so and found that the "green" one when tapped caused the motor to stutter. Replaced relay hoping that was the problem, but it wasn't.
    Finally it happened when I was at home and my Dad and I took of the fuel line to see if it still had pressure. Gas squirted out of the line when motor was cranked over, so I am getting fuel. Next we pulled out the relay and checked box itself and the test registered current was being sent through. Next we pulled the plugs and once again no spark.
    Finally a friend (retired mechanic), said that the alternator is the problem. Somehow it cuts off the charge to the spark plugs, not sure how because he explained it to my gf and she explained it to me. Any way this didn't fix the problem either.
    I feel that I also should mention that the battery is brand new and the connections are clean and corrosion free. Also, the spark plugs and wires were changed around 10,000 miles ago. Another thing is this problem isn't throwing any OBD codes, so I can't hook up OBD computer to get any help. When I talked to Mazda and independent mechanics they said if the problem doesn't duplicate w/ them they can do nothing... in fact Mazda said they wouldn't know what to do w/out a code. Sad if you ask me.
    Any help would be greatly appreciated, for right now I am stumped. Also, sorry for the long post, thanks for any help.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    the alternator is the problem. Somehow it cuts off the charge to the spark plugs, not sure how

    How many miles on the car?

    My understanding is that if your battery is weak, your alternator tries to pick up the slack but over time this can affect your alternator. If you replaced the battery that does not mean you solved the problem with the alternator. I suggest you leave the car at Mazda/independent garage overnight (or longer if you can manage) and ask them to try to duplicate the problem.

    Tip: If you haven't replaced your timing belt yet, you may want to do it early. The timing belt is located close to the alternator so the mechanic can end up checking it at the same time.
  • I bought a 2003 P5 in August 2003. It has 60,000km on it (and went for the 60,000km inspection at 55,000km because of service dates) In the last month my ABS & Brake light have come on. I had the brakes replaced last year. I took the car to my mechanic, who said that the brakes are fine but couldn't figure out why the lights were on. They started coming on and then going off when i restarted the car, but now they just stay on. I'm trying to avoid going to the dealership because a) warranty has expired and b) the one close to me has a steep diagnostic fee which they won't waive even if i get the work done there.

    Has anyone else had these problems?
  • iamziamz Posts: 542
    Yes. Top off your brake fluid reservoir. If this doesn't cure it, one of your wheel sensors is acting up.
  • Hi . I have a 92 mazda protege 5 speed. lately i cannot get it started . some days it will start and others it wont,, battery seems fine, the lights work, have not been able to drive it cus it wont start again. i put the key in, and all it does is sound like it wants to start but it doesnt. any ideas? i cannot afford to take to the dealership . any ideas or suggestions are greatly appreciated.
  • I already replaced the alternator last week, and it ran well for around 5 days, but then it didn't start yesterday. Also, the battery is only around two to three months old. As for the miles the car, it has around 49,700 miles. I was thinking about it, does anybody think that it might be the PCM? Next time it acts up I'm going to disconnect the battery to let the computer reset itself and then try again. Also, I was thinking about changing all the fuses, figure it's cheap and that way I can rule that out. Don't think they have anything to do with this, but it seems these newer cars have problems that can stem from something that makes no sense. Thanks for taking the time to reply.
  • I have recently replaced the front brake pads on my 2003 MP5, and ensured that the brake fluid was full. I pumped the breaks to get pressure but once I start the car I loose all pressure. If I continually pump the brakes I can get full pressure but it doesn’t last for long. What might be the cause of the breaks not holding pressure?
  • brakes not holding pressure

    Check to see if your bleeder valves are tightened properly. They may seem tight, but when you start the car and the high pressure hits the bleeder valve it might be leaking. That's what I would check...on all four corners. Good Luck!!
  • Just in case anyone else is having this problem. I had a mechanic friend look at the car and told him the problem I am having and he said that it might be the Ignition Computer Module. Gonna get a new one and post the outcome, so do it your selfers can find tips on such a pain in the side problem.
  • Our 2003 Protege5 had that same problem, the dealer diagnosed it as a bad "crankshaft angle sensor". Could that be your problem? Our car has started very easily since we changed the part. Hope this helps!
  • Thank you for the response, will defiantly look into that. Our dealership said it might be the coil packs, but my gut says no. Big thanks for the idea.
  • Hi,
    My light went on at 25,000 miles and stayed on. I went for my 25K miles service and was told that I need to change the pads, and they can do pads only (instead of both rotors AND pads). It seems like the light is directly connected to the break condition - at least in my case.
    You said you had your breaks fixed - can I ask much much you paid? I was quoted $400 at a regular shop for something that everyone says it's "wear & tear". Could you tell me your experience?
    Many thanks.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    went for my 25K miles service and was told that I need to change the pads, and they can do pads only ... I was quoted $400 at a regular shop for something that everyone says it's "wear & tear".

    Pads do wear out. Assuming that you have a 2002 or 2003 P5, requiring a brake job at 25K miles indicates to me that you don't drive this car much. What may be happening is that your brakes have seized (i.e. locked up) and then they wore down your pads. This usually happens on the rear brakes. $400 to replace pads is quite pricey, especially if this is for the rear pads only. Your rotors may also have been affected. It's unusual in my experience that a shop that does brake work cannot do rotors. You may want a second opinion. Also, consider having your brakes lubricated annually to prevent them from seizing.
  • Funny isn't it? Mt Pro 5 is JUST out of warranty and the lowbeam headlights have each gone out within a month. Determined to do it myself I got the manual out and set to change the first one. I soon discovered that you need to have the hands of a munchkin to get in the space as described. Now the dealer says 1/2 hour labor to change the second one. Any ideas as to whether I just missed something, or if there is any way to avoid this cost?
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    lowbeam headlights have each gone out within a month. Determined to do it myself I got the manual out and set to change the first one. ... you need to have the hands of a munchkin to get in the space ... the dealer says 1/2 hour labor to change the second one. ... any way to avoid this cost?

    Yes, the headlight bulbs are a pain to change; they are tightly arranged in a dark spot in which it is difficult to work. A half hour may be excessive but the dealer may be charging you a minimum. Try getting the shop to do related activities done (e.g. oil change / battery test) at the same time. That makes it more profitable for the dealership to handle the job, while reducing the overall cost to you of the individual activities. If it's any consolation, I have replaced two bulbs so far and have found it was easier the second time round. Two tips: don't touch the glass portion; work in a well lit area with a flashlight handy.
  • erics6erics6 Posts: 684
    My lowbeams went out recently too just before I sold the car. Within a month of each other.

    Went to my independent mechanic who after ordering the correct bulb (not in stock) took a couple of minutes and put them in for the cost of the bulb ($12/each).
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