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Mazda Protege5 Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • iamziamz Posts: 542
    Unless your P5 is not tracking straight or pulling when you let go of the steering wheel, I wouldn't.
  • Hi,
    catalytic converters generally don't go out on their own. Usually a result of misfires. If possible you should ask for the CEL codes the dealership pulled. P0300 is a misfire. (auto parts stores can usually do this, even after the fact).
    if the car misfires, you'll know it and you'll get another flashing CEL

    If that happens, my advice to you would be to invest about $200 in new ignition coils, spark plug wires, and spark plugs. If the coils have never been changed, they are probably overdue @108k. Check rockauto.com for the parts. OEM from mazda are insanely expensive.

    igntion coils - * Airtex (5C1208) or Standard Motor Products (UF-407)
    wires (short & long in a set) - NGK Part # 5659
    plugs - NGK copper
    labor - no more than 1 hour
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    Unless your P5 is not tracking straight or pulling when you let go of the steering wheel, I wouldn't.
    Agreed. In fact that's what a Mazda service rep recommended to me when I asked the same question.
  • rockinrrockinr Posts: 4
    I was/am having the same issue on my 2002 P5. now its worse. when the engine is cold it starts. when the engine is warmed up it either won't crank at all or it tries to crank then blows the injector 30 amp fuse under the hood. It seems to me it is a bad starter motor.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    my 2002 P5 ... a bad starter motor
    Could be. It's an eight year old car, so it's likely it will need parts replaced. Personally, I'd have my garage check it out to make sure the right ones are being replaced.
  • rockinrrockinr Posts: 4
    I replaced the starter because it did test bad when it took it to the auto parts store.
    This did not fix the problem. it still blows the main 30 amp injector fuse everytime i turn on the key and try to start the car. my car has been broken for 3 weeks. i reallt need to get it fixed. i can't afford to have it towed and repaired by mazda or a repair shop. someone has to know what tis problem is and how to fix it HELP! please :cry:
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    It looks like the AC in my 2002 Protege5 may be breathing its last cool breath. The AC failed two weeks ago. After a diagnosis last week, my garage restored the AC by adding a solution to plug leaks. This may be a temporary fix if the AC compressor or other components are on their last legs.

    Has anyone else had similar AC experiences?
  • iamziamz Posts: 542
    Mine still works on my P5 but the airconditioner at home is starting to fail. :) The AC on the P5 was always pretty week though from the start. I remember one hot day with a passenger in the car, it could not keep up and was fairly uncomfortable.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    I remember one hot day with a passenger in the car, it could not keep up and was fairly uncomfortable.
    Ditto. A few weeks back while heading to Montreal ours conked out. Like Paul, I was suddenly converted to the worth of AC.

    p.s. do you have your new Fiesta? They are all over the showrooms here but I haven't had a chance myself to take a look yet.
  • iamziamz Posts: 542
    "p.s. do you have your new Fiesta? They are all over the showrooms here but I haven't had a chance myself to take a look yet."

    Interesting. Seems they must be shipping them all to Canada then because last I heard from my dealer (this past Saturday) was that only 2 were in the twin cities (Mpls./St.Paul, MN) ;)

    I'm thinking, if I'm lucky, maybe by September. Ford really messed up the launch of these cars. :(
  • I just tried to replace the rear brake pads on my 2003 Mazda Prootge5. Is there a special tool needed to depress the caliper cylinder? IF so what is it and where do I get it?
    Do I have to bleed the brakes just to get it to depress?
    On my previous vehicle, I used a C clamp to depress this cylinder. ON this caliper there is not single flat spot on which I could get a C clamp to attach. I tried another tool that fit inside where the outer brake pad fits and presses against the inner brake pad to depress the cylinder. Perhaps it was a cheap tool but the threads stripped trying to twist it down on the brake pad. I had to use a hack saw to cut it to get it out.
    The current brake pads are worn and I want to get this accomplished soon. I have searched everywhere on the internet for an answer.
    All the garages around here insist on turning the rotors and charging an arm and a leg for it. If I replace the pads now--turning them is not necessary. HELP?!
  • rockinrrockinr Posts: 4
    ok i don't know what it is called but the round portion of the caliper that pushes in on the inside pad turns like a screw. it is like a self adjuster. turn it until it goes in. you will be able to tell if your turning it the right direction because the rubber boot around it will compress. you will have to use some sort of pliers to turn it.
  • rarmcprarmcp Posts: 2
    There is a Allen head Bold on the back of the Caliper just unscrew it to bring the piston in.
  • Hi,

    I have the same problem with my 2003 P5 with 130K miles on it. Do you still have the problem? What was the fix? As someone else stated, I am "mechanically challenged". Thanks!
  • melparmelpar Posts: 2
    Ok - I have a 2003 Mazda Pro5 - I love this car but about a year ago it developed a "random" misfire - the check engine light would flash - there would be some hesitation in the motor - the it was like the motor would catch - and all would fine. There was no rhyme or reason to this problem and it only happend about once every few weeks. Several mechanics looked at the car and could not find a problem - so we changed plugs - and then the plugs.

    I continued to drive the car - and the problem steadly got worse. It was suggested that we replace the O2 Senors. Before I could get it in the shop, my husband blew the motor while driving down the interestate. So we found a replacement motor - with close the same miles - however we did have do a conversion - the replacement motor was from a car with an automatic transmission and mine in manual.

    Since putting the replacement motor in the car has been in and out of the shop... for the same radom misfire that happened on the old motor - except now it is much worse. All plugs, coils packs, o2 Sensore and the EGR valve have all been replaced at this point and everyone is ready to give up.

    Does anyone out there have any suggestion or thought on what to do???? I hate to have to buy a new car at this point expecially after putting this much into fixing this one but... I have to have a reliable car.... HELP....
  • Hi,
    I'm guessing you replace the plug wires as well?

    Another possible cause is the strainer over the fuel pump. It can get clogged over time and cause misfires. It can be cleaned or just replaced.

    here's some good info on the topic. http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?107361-Misfire-problem-diagnosed!&- highlight=fuel+strainer
  • melparmelpar Posts: 2
    Thank you for the link and the info - will start looking there.
  • I hate hearing stories about this same problem with this car. And its such an easy fix with a little bit of research.

    Occasional problems on this vehicle are failure of the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve and the Intake Manifold. Failure of the EGR valve will cause the Check Engine Light to illuminate and may also cause the engine to misfire or run rough at idle. Failure of the Intake Manifold may cause a rattling noise or engine misfires. The cost to replace the EGR valve is estimated at $146.00 for the parts and $30.00 for the labor. Replacement of the intake manifold is covered under a safety recall.
  • arb_16arb_16 Posts: 9
    The intake manifold recall is only for a specific VIN range. Our 2003 Protege5 had the problem but was outside the range and was not covered by Mazda (although our local dealer covered the cost of the part but not labor). By the way, our Mazda since purchased new has needed ignition switch, thermostat, valve cover gasket, intake manifold, and recently the A/T transmission. Just hit 100K miles.
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