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Mercedes-Benz C-Class Maintenance and Repair

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  • p71p71 Posts: 1
    I hope this is not an omen of things to come. In addition to vibration at 20-30 mph, my c320 was shifting erratically at those same speeds. It has been back in the shop for a week now awaiting parts from the fatherland. They told me and i quote:

    'This is a known problem, we have had several of these.'

    P71
  • tony24tony24 Posts: 15
    Hello again,

    You should also look into the Lemon law guidelines in your state if you are e-mailing from the US. Your car is going to give you a lot of trouble and the cost to fix these cars are very, very high after the warranty runs out. My C240 has a lot of problems. You are early in the ownership of your car so you have a great chance to maybe get out of it now. It wont be easy but it might be worth the try.
    From reading your posting, it seems that you have brought your car in for service on three separate occasions for the same problem. Again, you should look into the lemon law when you have a moment.

    Regards
  • waade7waade7 Posts: 3
    This sounds like an alignment problem. The frame may be out of square at worst. However,
    I have devised a way to to check it out for yourself if you are into that. First I jack the car up
    and spin each wheel fast enough to see if the tire and rim travel in a straight line. They are
    never perfect (unless you spend a lot of money on tires and rims) a little is not that bad. If they
    are not too bad then put a lasar level across each front wheel pointing at a wall around 3 to 5
    meters away. I use bungee cord to hold the lasar level tight against the wheel. Mark the lasar
    dots' location on a level line on the wall.
    Now measure the distance between the levels where they stick out foreward from the tire making
    sure they also are measured level longitudal and laterally. Let the weight of the car down on
    the tires and get the lasars pointed at the level line on the wall that you made for the first
    measurements while letting the weight down(so you dont need to move the lasar from it's
    position). Mark the lasar dot locations on the wall in a different color pencil.
    Measure the distance between the ends of the levels again. If the measurements between wall
    marks changed when the weight of the car was appied then there is wear in the
    steering linkage. Compare the level end measurement with the distance between the lasar
    marks on the wall. If the dots on the wall were further apart than the lasar ends were then the wheels are pointing outward. Rear wheel drive cars are usually designed to have "toe-in" of somewhere around 1/16th up to a whopping 3/8 inch.
    They allow more for vehicals that will be towing stuff or hauling heavy loads which changes the
    toe a little under those conditions.
    If your rear wheel drive car has some
    "toe-out" then the symptoms would show up at certain speeds as a fluttering vibration. The tires
    would be drifting outward as they roll and shifting back to center repeating quickly giving you the
    vibration. It stops as the speed changes because the quick shifting of the tire back to center begins
    to transform to a constant slip. If the exclamation point is flashing on the dash when the vibration
    happens then the transmission will act differently to reduce loss of grip to the road. I have the same
    car.
    Also measure the fronthub to the backhub on each side just to be sure they are the same.
    Do it a few times recentering the steering wheel each time to get an accurate measuremnet.
    If they are not then the wheels location on the suspension has shifted and will cause some of
    this too. It is easily adjusted but not if the frame is out of square. Then you'd need a frame shop.
    Unless you want to start building some tools which could be fun too.
    waade7
  • waade7waade7 Posts: 3
    Dealers love to fix anything whether needed or not. They get big money for it.
    And you have to let them have your car during that time. "Got Milk?"
  • eliot1eliot1 Posts: 2
    in 4th gear during a low speed the break band is being released and golts the final drive { clonk} plus the pressure goes down to 0. in 3rd gear is all o.k. would anyone knows what is wrong with it or how to solv this problem? Thankd you
  • eliot1eliot1 Posts: 2
    ihave a mercedes 190 d 2.d with an auto box. with autobox in drive and when slowing down to about ten miles an hour from say 30mph, or any speed,the transmission clonks.at this point hydraulic the pressure of the transmission fluid drops to zero. it appears that the brake band is being released suddenly.this does not happen when auto box is in third gear. please can anyone help? or let me know where i can get expert advice on this. many thanks, Eliot.
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,363
    Eliot, you clearly need to seek the services of a skilled MB technician, either at a dealership or an independent. It's my semi-informed opinion that the valve body in the transmission is shot, but it could be literally a dozen possible problems, all of which are going to cost big bucks to fix. I don't think anyone on the board here is going to be able to save you from either the diagnosis or the ultimate repair expense.
  • mdamronmdamron Posts: 2
    :sick: I own a 2001 C320 that is now out of warranty. I have a major electrical problem that no one seems to be able to fix. Total drain on battery if car is not driven in 24 hours. I just spent $1500.00 for a shop to tell me that they have tried everything in there power to fix this problem. The local MB dealership has now had the car for over 4 months and I have now been informed that they can't get the car to even start. The total bill at the MB shop at this time is now reaching $3,000.00 with more to be spent. Has anyone else had this kind of problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • cheappccheappc Posts: 1
    I have the same problem, please visit http://www.mercedes-benz-usa.com/
  • I recently purchased a 2000 C230K with 89K miles. It has a few problems which I strangely did not notice when I first evaluated the car. The engine must crank for a couple moments before ignition (not an instant, key to start = engine running, like my 1987 190E). This problem occurs warm or cold. Occasionally when the engine is cold, it will seem to stall at the moment of ignition, but then rev's up to about 1200 rpm and begins the warm-up process. It has an irratic roughness at idle, warm or cold, feels like an occasional slight misfire. During acceleration when cold it has noticable hesitation. When warm the hesitation is not as noticable, although it doesn't seem to be as smooth as it should. Under full accceleration it seems to do pretty good. After turning the ignition off, the motor has a slight shudder, but no run-on. The 02 sensor and air injection valve were replaced just prior to my purchase. Since I've had the car, 4K miles, I've replaced the spark plugs, air filter and fuel filter. No change. I added 12 oz of techron and a bottle of heet (water dryer additive) to about 5 or 6 gallons or fuel and drove it under as many fuel throttle accelerations as practical. It didn't help much, if any. I removed the MAF sensor and sprayed what I could with electrical contact cleaner. No change. The service print-out I received indicated that the car was well maintained except there is no indication that the fuel filter was ever replaced in 89K miles. I suspect the fuel injectors are worn. How long do they usually last. I can probably purchase and replace the injectors myself for the cost of a MB diagnostics. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  • bounkpbounkp Posts: 1
    Sir/Mam..
    I have the Mercede-Benz C230k 2002 / 56k miles about almost one year, when I start in the morning the niose very bad, after 3 munites the niose is normal.

    2nd problem is the"CHECK ENGINE " Lights on, the Light show up almost 3 months ago, I do not know what to do and the car is running O.K so far.

    My Question is What is the most problem with my car?? Is it big problem??
    How Can I check the Code of Check Engine Light on???
    Please help me out.!!!!
    Thanks,
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,363
    At least part of the answer to both of the above posts is that the supercharged 4s are VERY nasty on cold startup - noisy, rough, sounding like crap for the first few minutes. In this case, I'm sorry to say that whomever said it was "normal" was, for a change, right.

    Long cranking is subjective - I'd have to count how many seconds it takes before it fires to know if there is something worth pursuing here. More than 5 seconds would be grounds for having it looked at, but It's possible this is just what they do when they get 90k miles on them. Yes, injectors are a possible suspect, and I don't know if they are a generic weakness in this engine, but 90k seems premature to me. It could be the cold-start circuit - that part of the computer software that determines how much extra fuel to give it on a cold start. If it seems to run roughly all of the time, then it can only be fuel or ignition - are the plug wires OK?

    The '02 is actually a different engine, but not much better in terms of refinement - your cold start noises are probably just what it will sound like pretty much forever.

    CEL [check engine lights] are simply not something that can be diagnosed remotely. You must get the car to someone who can read the codes from the Onboard Diagnostic computer, because there are literally dozens of possible causes - some simple and cheap, many not. If you live in a state with regular inspections, the car is going to flunk until you take care of it. Some of the auto parts chains [Autozone, etc] will attempt to read the codes for you at no charge, but they aren't likely to be able to solve many problems even with a correct diagnosis. There is no substitute for a good independent MB mechanic if you own one of these cars out of warranty - ask around. And this is a good opportunity for me to remind everyone that this is one of the reasons that the MB Club of America exists [MBCA.org] - members can help each other out on these kinds of questions.
  • My 2004 C 240 4 matic has a musty smell inside. Maybe the same issue you are having. We have a 2005 C240 4 matic which had a major interior re-design and has not had this problem

    On the 2004 the ride has gotten very rough after 35K miles and the roof makes a thud like sound when I go over bumps. The outside temperature is now wrong also, it went as high as 149 degrees the other day and is always 6 to 20 degrees higher then the actual temperature. I will take it into the dealer on Thursday. We'll see what happens. I'm wondering if anyone else is having these type of problems.

    One thing for sure, the 2005 is a much better built C class. .
  • Greetings -- Just joined the forum. I have a 2002 C240 sedan. It will need a brake job soon -- 69,000 miles (all interstate) on original brakes (I drive easy). Am experienced restorer of vintage German and British cars, and am considering doing it myself, especially since local dealer quoted me $650 for front pads and rotors, and another $560 for rear pads and rotors. Before I tackle this job, are there any unique things I should be aware of, or are Benz's much the same as Porsches and other Euro brands? I have found factory replacement front pad sets as little as $70, and rears for $55, with front rotors going for $50 each and rears for $35 each. At those prices, paying a dealer over $1,200 seems almost criminal. Thanks in advance.

    Ross
  • You need to find another dealer. While electrical current draws are difficult, they shouldn't be that difficult. All the control modules on this vehicle are on a "CAN" network, so finding the culprit should be relatively straight forward. No joke.

    If they have had the car for that long, and are telling you that it is going to cost that much money, then you need to tell them you will take your business elsewhere because they are totally incompetent.
  • Hi I own a 2001 C240 and I have had a lot of the same issues that you are mentioning...It got so bad that I was having to keep a jumper box in my car so it wouldn't leave me stranded places...like you, my vehicle is out of warranty, and I am very unhappy. The dealership first told me they needed to replace a pane, that it was diods?(sp) and now finally, I am hearing that it is actually a problem with the driver's side power seating having a short that is draining the battery...I too have spent thousands of dollars and am beyond aggravated...I haven't picked up my car yet to see if that did the trick...have you heard anything more on your car? I read another thread that said there was a short with the power seating, so maybe it is a common calamity with these lemons...anyways, I hope that helps.
  • Hi, I'm new to this message board and very happy that I have finally found it. I'm certain this will be a blessing for me.

    I brought my C230K in at 500 miles becuase it drifted to the right. The dealer performed an alignment, raised it a little bit and added some bolts (I can't recall the technical name and don't have the paperwork in front of me). Anyway, the car continued to drift to the right so I took it back in. I was told that because of the sport suspension and performance tires the car will naturally drift. I bought that explanation and moved on. Now it is a year later and I have 11,500 miles and see that my front tires are very unevenly worn. I go back to the dealer and explained there is obviously a problem. They perform another alignment and give me two new front tires. Once again I drive off only to find the car still drifts to the right. I go back and they tell me "ALL" cars (Mercedes, BMW, etc) with a sport suspension and performance tires will drift. He said that the wear on my tires was due to the car being out of alignment; but (I can't tell if I have an alignment problem if the car is always drifting to the right). The car is doing the same thing as when I brought it in at 500 miles. Can anyone tell me if this is statement about all cars with sport suspension and performance tires is true? And or point me in the direction of some sort of written information about this. Thanks.
  • jccai1jccai1 Posts: 106
    dango1: I've nevered owned an MB, but I did own a BMW 330Ci with the sport suspension, 17" wheels with low profile summer tires. It never drifted in the 3 years that I owned it. The high performance tires do tend to follow the grooves on rough pavements, but the car never drifts on smooth, level roads. I once owned a Honda that had a drifting problem due to defective tires. I wouldn't trust what this dealer is telling you. Take your car to a different dealer and get a 2nd opinion.
  • I have not seem much discussion regarding air conditioning problems with the C Class. I have a C-320 that experiences intermittent ac problems.
    Problems include the following:
    1. AC shutting off without me touching the controls and unable to turn back on, (only to have it come back on --without me touching the controls--by itself a few minutes later).
    2. The thermostat increases in temp without me adjusting it. (The temp only increases, it never decreases by itself).
    3. AC continues to run AFTER I turn engine off and remove key from ignition.
    4. Fan motor mysteriously speeds up or slows down while operating in "manual" mode.
    5. AC blows ambient temp air and does not cool even though the thermostat is calling for 68 degree temp air.

    I've pulled the 2 fuses and re-seated them which seem to help sometimes. Any insight or suggestions are welcomed. I plan to take the car into MB dealership next week. Fortunately I have an extended warranty!
  • Thanks for your reply. I have a friend with a 2005 BMW 330 and she said her car doesn't drift either.

    I did call another dealer this morning and they told me that this problem is common with the C230 as well as other Mercedes models. He said that Mercedes won't do anything about this issue and that it has come up repeatedly. He also said he has sat in meetings with the sales reps and their answer to the problem is not to let go of the steering wheel.

    I hope other dissatisfied MB owners will start speaking up about this problem and force MB to make it right.
  • Is this occurring on streets and roads? You have to make sure that your are on a flat and smooth road, because most streets are crowned, and this will cause any car to drift to the right. The only way to truly tell if the car is pulling, is to find a very flat road or lane. If it still does drift, then you obviously have a problem.
  • I had a 2000 C230K Sport and it had a tendency to drift also. The dealer also told me the same thing, that it would drift because of the sport suspension and tires. I replaced the tires at 25K miles and it seemed better, though my wife still claimed it was a problem.

    My 2005 Maxima with 255/45HR18 tires and sport suspension doesn't have the same problem. Must be the Germans...
  • I have tested many roads with my 2 other cars as well (neither of which have sport tires/suspensions) to be sure that the issue isn't the crown of the road and on those same roads the C230 drifts to the right.
  • Thanks for the reply. I'm feeling very confident I won't be replacing any of my cars with another Mercedes.
  • Hi ALL,
    Just an update to my previous note on my '04 C230 sport sedan.

    The buzzing noise has now gone, after the dealer replaced the entire airbag module in the steering wheel.

    The strong smelly odor from A/C vents has now changed flavor, after the dealer installed a new evaporator unit with biocide coating.

    In the first two weeks, the air smells "chemical" with the fan blower ON, and A/C either ON or OFF. The dealer said it was expected, due to biocide coating in the evaporator, and would wear off after a week or two.

    Now, the air vent blows "dirty sock" odor in the first 5 to 10 minutes every time the A/C in turned ON. If the A/C is turned OFF but fan blower remains ON, the air from the vents smells "rotten eggs" odors, for about 10 to 15 minutes. All we could do is to roll down the windows to purge the smelly air.

    The dealer said they'd look at the issue again when I bring the car in.

    Got the feeling my car being a "test case" :cry: :sick:
  • It took 3x to correct it, but my dealership finally got it after having a teleconference call with the people in Germany. They were told it's an area that is hard to detect. So, on a chance, they took the suspected part out of one car and placed it in mine. I haven't had the problem recur and it's been three weeks now. My car is a 2005 C Class.
  • Hello,
    I recently purchased a 2002 C240 Sedan with only 19K miles. It has a lowered suspension with 18" custom wheels.

    I think I like the car already, but, I can't figure out where this annoying screeching sound is coming from every time I turn the steering wheel to the right. It sounds like an opening door that needs oil.

    I'm about to make my third trip to the dealer I purchased from less than two weeks ago. They seem to be lost on this as well. Or am I getting the run around?

    Has anyone experienced to same noise?

    Thanks in advance for any help you can provide. :confuse:
  • I have this same issue with my C230 sedan and would like to know your outcome?
  • I have a 2002 C230 coupe with 56K miles on it that I recently had to take in for servicing because of a "consumer defective undervoltage" light. Turns out that the problem was a part in the engine "falling apart." That part is the part that holds the pulleys for both the alternator belt and the supercharger belt, and when it went, those belts got shredded, which in turn apparently caused some type of jolt which cracked the front end bushings. Cost of repair...$2K since the car is 6,000 miles out of warranty.

    In addition, the service dept. is saying that the rear differential looks like it will need repair at some point in the near future, again, a $1,000 - 2,000 repair (with parts and labor).

    Both of these seem very extreme for a supposedly "well made" car with only 56K miles on it. Can anyone weigh in and let me know if you have had similar problems? Also, I'm not the most mechanically inclined, so if I'm getting shafted and you can put the reason why into laymen's terms I can use when I go to the dealership, I'd greatly appreciate that.

    Thanks.
  • Look into the following "Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act Law" to see if it might help with you in dealing with your rear differential leak. Please know that the leak will continue to occur. Yes, it will leak after dealer state that they have fixed the problem. My C240 rear differential continues to leak. The mileage does not matter. I only have 18,000 miles on my car and it is a 2002. Again, the mileage does not matter. These cars are poorly made and you will continue to have problems.

    Of course, you will get other opinions but I felt that I needed to let you know about the rear differential issues. You can do your own research on the web to see what you find. Hopefully, everything does work out for you.

    Regards
This discussion has been closed.