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Mercedes-Benz C-Class Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • marcegmarceg Posts: 8
    I believe pior to the '03 MY the C240 had the REST feature. I have an '03 C240 and found (by searching another discussion board) that it actually has the REST feature even though the button is not marked on the climate control. When I press and hold the "AC off" button for a few seconds, the REST feature starts. I believe it circulates air for 30 minutes. Not sure if this "hidden" feature was still available on '04 or later MY C240s, but worth a try.

    I also have been having problems with a strange odor in the interior of my car. I only notice it after the vehicle has gotten wet (e.g., rain, car wash). It's there when I first open the car door...before even starting the car. It's an awful smell, reminds me of rotten onions and/or a natural gas type of smell.

    I purchased the vehicle new, and only started having this problem after I had driven it for 1.5 - 2 years. I just visited my local dealership for the 6th time for this problem, still without a solution. They've supposedly cleaned the entire system out twice (I'm not exactly sure with what, but I had to wait for a few months until some new "equipment" arrived from Germany), replaced the cabin filter twice, and eventually replaced the evaporator in May of this year. Although replacing the evaporator initially eliminated about 95% of the odor, the smell has been slowly increasing is almost back to where it was prior to the evaporator being replaced. I've read there's a newly redesigned evaporator that is supposed to solve this problem. My dealership stated the one they installed in my car back in May was the redesigned one, but I'm not positive that it is.

    I'm curious if anyone else has had this problem successfully resolved, and if so, what the fix was. If you recently (last couple of months) had your evaporator replaced, was it the redesigned one? (If you have the part number, please let me know what it is so I can compare it to my invoice.) Thanks.
  • g17g17 Posts: 45
    I think I'll take my chances. ;)

    I don't think there is anyone in the automotive industry that can make a straight-faced claim them Mercedes is more reliable the Lexus.....even MB execs, although they won't publicly admit it.
  • atrainatrain Posts: 2
    I am considering buying a 2006 C230. After I build my own on MBUSA.com I come up with a MSRP of 36,010. I have great credit and can give some cash at purchase time.
    Can I get Less than MSRP?

    Thanks,
    Atrain
  • i was offered $1400 off msrp and kelly blue book for my trade for a C350.
  • I bought my brand new C230 K in May, so far I put on 4000 miles. I'm a very careful driver, yet I had to touch up the paint on my car twice already. First on the door, which I thought was just somebody banging their door against, but yesterday I had to touch up a spot on my hood.
    I had 3 cars before this one and I had never had problems before. Is it just me or is the paint job on the C230 very "weak"?
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,367
    There's nothing wrong with the paint. Just one moment behind a truck is all it takes to nick the paint on the front end, including the hood.

    All water-based paints are more prone to chipping than the old oil-based enamels, but that is all the industry uses these days over concerns about air pollution at the factories. In my experience, the Japanese actually seem to have a few more problems than the Germans in this regard.

    If you've got 4000 miles and have had to touch up only two spots, consider yourself lucky.
  • Thanks for the reply, that actually made me feel better. Here is another question: Once in a while my engine makes a weird "rumble" noise, it starts after I've driven the car for a while. It can last for quite a while, is this just Kompressor making that noise? Can you tell that I'm "mildly" obsessive compulsive about my "new" baby.

    Oh, and what kind of winter tires do you guy's recommend? I live in the snow belt.

    Thanks again!
  • billp8billp8 Posts: 56
    MB of Hagerstown will do a "core exchange" with your original CD changer, and supply a remanufactured one with warranty. I would like to pick up the new unit (apparently smaller than mine, which, to my eyes, looks like an old VCR) on a Saturday (service dept not in). To pick up my new changer, I need to leave my old one. I have searched this and other websites to try to find removal instructions/diagrams for the CD changer--to no avail. One site had a "partial" pictorial guide. IIRC, there are just two cables to undo, and of course removal from the trunk-mounted bracket. Anyone out there have any other removal info/guidance/instructions?
  • waade7waade7 Posts: 3
    The engineers put a governor on the brake pedal that reduces the effect of the accellerator. If you press both the brake and the accellerator at the same time the gas only has a small effect. If you're applying gas and still have the brake pressed then let go of the brake the car kind of leaps foreward. When the brake is touched while already in motion and the gas pedal is being applied the car seems like it is stalling. I've heard there is a USB plug in where a PC can be plugged in and if you have the program these settings can be changed or disabled.
  • Thanks but I'm a little confused by your comments. I drive only with my right foot, using only the brake or accellerator at a time. Are you saying that, as I release the brake with my foot, if it is not fully backup, the accellerator will be only partially effective until the brake fully comes back up? That would make sense if that is what you mean, but I can't imagine the logic M-B used to add that governor.
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,367
    It has to do with the logic in the traction control software. They don't want you on the brake and accelerator at the same time, because it confuses the software, which uses the ABS system and throttle adjustments to invoke the traction control when necessary.
  • The engine warning light of my 2003 CL55 suddenly came on at 25000 miles. Teleaid tech said not to worry -- was probably due to "gas fumes resulting from gas cap not being tighted." Light was reset at scheduled maintenance but soon came back on again and has remained on for over 3000 miles. Anyone have any suggestions as to what I can do about this?
  • The Center vent blows cold air The side vents blows hot air hot set to max cold but the hot water never turns off no one seems to know which computer to replace I dont really want to replace all 3 any ideas or suggestions.
  • tizertizer Posts: 23
    The check Engine Light on my 2001 C240 comes on and will stay on for about 400 miles...then "go out" when the car is started and stay off for about 100 miles when it will come back on..This pattern has gone on for several Thousand Miles. The car has 76,000 highway miles. My independant mechanic checked the codes and it reads.."unauthorized"...? I have searched this board and read that this problem could be a build up of carbon in the cylinders...but the car drives perfect. Any other thoughts before I go to the MB dealer .

    Thanks for any input.
  • tizertizer Posts: 23
    The check Engine Light on my 2001 C240 comes on and will stay on for about 400 miles...then "go out" when the car is started and stay off for about 100 miles when it will come back on..This pattern has gone on for several Thousand Miles. The car has 76,000 highway miles. My independant mechanic checked the codes and it reads.."unauthorized"...? I have searched this board and read that this problem could be a build up of carbon in the cylinders...but the car drives perfect. Any other thoughts before I go to the MB dealer .

    Thanks for any input.
  • Background: My wife got a '02 C230 Sport Coupe new in the fall of '01. She absolutely loves the car, with one exception, which is not truely the fault of MB. At 6 months old the car got keyed :cry: , getting EVERY body panel and at least one tail light lens. The car got a complete repaint from a very reputable shop dealing in high end cars in the Atlanta area: completely de-trimmed and such. Best repaint I've ever seen.
    On to the problem: 6 months to a year after this, to start with on rainy days, a brake light would go out. The indicator would come on, then the brake light would start working again. Sometimes this would take a day, sometimes just a few minutes. After many trips to the dealer, all under warranty, the car got all updates they had for the wiring harness and I think anything else. Finally this last spring they kept the car for a week and seemed to get it. Of all things they claimed they believed the problem was too much di-electric grease in a connector. The tech said there was enough in it for the whole car. In any case, everything was great for about 6 months, after then the final service prior to the car going out of warranty (which it did before it showed back up), it started doing this again. Now the brake light will go out, stay out for a few minutes, then start working again. I've noticed this following her. It will be working the first few stops she makes, then go out, and then one or two brake applications down the road start working again. Of course the fault shows for her the entire drive, unless she restarts the car (which she's been known to do at a long light). This seems to sound like a loose connection, but does anyone know where I should start looking on this? Yes, I could take it back to the dealer (again), and probably should, but I just have an urge to find the likely connector and make sure the connection is tight and it isn't gooped full. Left brake light, in case it makes a difference, and yes, it is consitantly just that tail light.
    Thanks for any input and suggestions.
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,367
    I believe there is a Tech Bulletin out on this. I will need to go to our car, which is garaged 4 floors below us in the condo parking garage, to get the latest list. When I have it, I'll post the number, if it is the problem I think it is.

    Before you go back to the dealer, let me see if I can help you point them in the right direction.
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,367
    Well, it sounds like the dealer may already have done everything the factory has on the Tech list for this problem, so maybe it is a loose connection. I presume you've had the brake light covers off from inside the trunk and had a good look and feel for the connections there? At the other end, it could be a bad connector out of the brake pedal switch.

    There are two bulletins, both relatively old, but worth mentioning to a dealer just in case - one relates to intermittent failures [Jan '03 P-82-10-217] and the other to continuous lighting of the brake lights [kind of the opposite of your situation, but worth a look anyway] [Oct '04 P-54-21-119].

    That's all I could find; I'm also betting on a corroded or bad connection either in the engine compartment where the brake switch connects to the rest of the bus system, or in the taillight assembly itself. Sorry I can't be more helpful.
  • If you are thinking about buying a new Mercedes product, first let me suggest two web sites in which to do some research;

    1) Mercedes Benz Club of America
    2) Mercedes Forum

    At the Mercedes Club site you can read numerous post about poor Mercedes service by dealers and the resulting unhappy customers. This is at the official Mercedes Club Site where even the moderators are troubled by Mercedes quality.
    Things are so bad the Mercedes Club worked to have a special envoy at Mercedes respond to and help club members with problems.

    If you think problems like this can arise at any manufacturer, also be aware that in most cases you pay a premium for a Mercedes product. And the last four issues of the very influential auto magazine `CAR` out of the UK.. had editorial comments by it's own writers lamenting the serious quality problems and poor customer service by dealer and Mercedes Benz Corporate.

    If you think a new car warranty will allay your fears, it is not unusual to make six, seven or more visits for the same problem. And if you think your savvy enough to get a regional service representative involved, in most case it won't happen. Mercedes Corporation distances themselves from their independent dealers, and denies/refuses to set up meetings between customers and regional service representatives.

    Many defenders of Mercedes will site similar problems with other manufacturers. note that in Germany shareholders have revolted over the widely accepted notion that Mercedes is in deep trouble. Quality, corporate scandal, and fierce competition have all effected Mercedes negatively.

    Before you by a Mercedes Benz product, do some research. You may find that it is prudent for you to purchase a Mercedes product, many people may find otherwise.

    As far as the purchase of a used Mercedes vehicle, Consumer Reports discourages such purchases. Only until you understand the financial, short term and long term history of Mercedes Benz USA, and have a cursory knowledge of cars and their mechanical workings, would I contemplate the purchase of such a vehicle.
  • There is a web site called Mercedesshop.com, that has a technical forum that is very good.

    The web address didn't appear in the post I submitted above so do a google search for both sites that I have mentioned above.
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