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Mercedes-Benz C-Class Maintenance and Repair

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  • Hello All. I have read your posts regarding dead batteries on C-Class Mercedes. I have a 2002 C320. Recently I noticed that the car has been a little hesitant when starting in the morning until finally it would not start at all. In fact, if left parked for long enough, the battery would drain so much that the doors would not unlock. I jumped the car and then it started but the same scenario was encountered the following morning. I replaced the battery and it seemed to fix the problem. However, after a couple weeks it began to die down and eventually drained completely.

    Since I am way over the warranty period I decided to troubleshoot myself. My plan was to remove fuses one at a time until the problem went away. The problem with that is that a single fuse on this car controls many different functions. While I was thinking about what to do next I noticed a very subtle hum coming from somewhere in the car. I tracked it down to the vent hole on the front dome light and sunroof control unit. There is a small cooling motor in there that runs constantly even when the vehicle is turned off. I removed the entire unit and the car started fine the next morning. Upon inspection of this part, I found that the fan has a small sensor that causes it to turn off and on. I am going to clean it up from all the dust and reinstall. If this does not resolve the issue, I found a complete replacement unit on Ebay for $299.99. the part number is A203820-1401.

    So if your C-Class battery is draining, this gives you one more thing to check before spending thousands with the dealer.
  • Hello again - I just wanted to give everyone an update with my C240 starting problems. Yes, it ended up being a defective battery. The battery was original and would not hold a charge. I replaced the battery with an Interstate Brand Model # MTP-93 B7. The car started right up with no problems.
    Replacing the battery will take you a few minutes but can be accomplished by yourself. You will need a 8 - 12" extenstion for your socket set to remove the plate that holds the battery at the bottom (right side). Here are the steps that I used.
    1. Remove the interior air filter that sits above battery. To remove unfasten the three top clips. Unit can be remove in a upward motion.
    2. Remove ground wire from battery terminal (left side)
    3. Remove orange cap covering positive battery terminal
    4. Remove positive battery terminal
    5. Need to loosen up nuts that hold bottom battery plate (plate is located at the bottom, right side of battery)
    6. Loosen each nut. One is located at the front right the other rear right. You will need an extension on your socket set to be able to reach them. take your time, not much space to get at these nuts.
    7. Remove battery by hanges. Be careful, battery is heavy and not in a very easy manageable position. Lift straight up.
    8. Place new battery in. Keep in mind to attach positive terminal first then ground.
  • Hello Fellow C Class Owners - I have a 2001 C240 that started to display an error within the dashboard display. The unit shows "ELEC. STABIL. PROG. Visit Workshop! ESP". Does anyone know what this means and if this is a major problem? The car seems to drive fine so I'm unsure on how fast I need to get into the service garage. Any insight you can provide would be most grateful! Thanks All
  • boomchekboomchek Vancouver, BC, CanadaPosts: 5,108
    This indicates that there is a problem with your Electronic Stability Program.

    It's the program that keeps your car on the road if you're oversteering or understeering. Traction control is also built into that program. So when you step on the gas too hard it limits wheelspin.

    There is a button on the dash right where the power lock button/rear headrest buttons are located.

    You might be able to switch it off but then you won't have that safety of ESP or Traction Control.

    Don't know what the cause might be, maybe it's just reprogramming a computer.

    2007 BMW 328i Sports Pkg, 1993 Honda Accord EXR (my 33rd car).

  • hello i'm about to buy an mercedes c220 cdi year 2001 but the car got a problem that dont let the car pass the 3000 rpm and 130km/h. The diagnostics from mercedes is:

    P1630-016 - Autorisation de conduite. le calculateur autorisation de conduite ne repond pas.

    P1470-016 - Regulation de la pression de suralimentacion Ecart de regulation positif[la pression de suralimentacion es trop basse]

    its in french but its easy to understand...
    french mercedes say that probably is the vacum pipes need to be replaced i think!!!!
    they say (in french):
    "mecedes me dit que ce sont probablement les catalyseurs qui commencent à se boucher "
    probably the catalysts which start to be stopped

    can someone give-me a clue of whats is wrong wiht the car???? and if its to expensive to repair???
    thx in avanced
    mario
  • fsmmcsifsmmcsi Posts: 792
    Has anyone else changed theor front brake pads? I am changing the front brake pads on our 2002 C230 K today.

    Rather than a simple spring which rubs against the rotor to signal to the driver that the pads are worn out, M-B used a needlessly complex electrical system. There is a sensor installed to the inside pad. It has two wires, so there are 8 wires and all of the associated mounting hardware and so forth to accomplish the same thing GM and Ford do with little pieces of steel attached to one pad at each wheel.

    I really could say that I am trying to change the brake pads today, as the left front wheel is firmly rusted to the rotor. I have soaked it with pentrating oil. For now, putting the weight of the car on it, or kicking the tire has no effect. I have never seen such a thing before, so hope the penetrating oil works. Has anyone else had the same problem?
  • fsmmcsifsmmcsi Posts: 792
    Well, I finally got the wheel off using lots of penetrating oil and a by putting a flat bar at the joint between the wheel and rotor/hub and banging way with a five pound hammer. The aluminum of the wheel was very slightly roughed-up in a small spot, so I smoothed it with a file, and used sandpaper to clean the wheel mounting surface and the coresponding disc/hub surface.

    To my surprise, I discovered that there is not a wear sensor on the left front brake. I wonder if they switched the sensor to the left side on the right hand drive versions? Whatever, the simple little spring clip which rubs againist the rotor on GM and Ford vehicles is present on at four wheels, making it even better.

    The only other problems with the car have been a transmission leak where the wires enter the transmission, a problem which was also common on the Chrysler which use the same transmission design, and sort sort of loose wire under the hood. Of course both were fixed under warranty.

    One almost humorous, though not at the time, event involved the dealer here. My wife took the car for the routine oil change and service, but after returning the loner car, they could not find the car! After about two hours they found it on the lot, and returned it filthy dirty. It was clean when we left it, but they said that they could not clean it,as the car was was closed - it seems they do not have a bucket, soap, and rags.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,018
    You're thinking of buying a 2001 Benz with error codes? Don't do that.

    You probably know that the error codes don't tell you the exact problem...they only indicate the area affected. So really the codes could be quite misleading. Mechanics often replace the wrong components because they don't diagnose more deeply.

    Might be as simple as EGR, rich mixture due to bad sensor, blah blah. Someone's got to dig deeper.

    Doesn't sound disastrous though.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • The driver power seat (which enables the seat cushion to go up and down and driver's chair forward and back) is not working. The passenger's power seat works just fine. My C240 4Matic has 66,700 miles and just went in for service 3 days ago to change the voltage regulator and battery. However, the driver's power seat worked just fine when I got it back.

    Does anyone think it might be the fuse (which is located in a compartment on the left side of the dashboard)? Should I first try changing the fuse, and then the motor?

    Any feedback would be greatly appreciated!!!!!!!
  • boomchekboomchek Vancouver, BC, CanadaPosts: 5,108
    Tell the place where you got your stuff fixed, that it worked before and now it doesn't. Maybe they messed something up.

    2007 BMW 328i Sports Pkg, 1993 Honda Accord EXR (my 33rd car).

  • meinwameinwa Posts: 4
    I have a 2002 C240 that I bought new. It now has 87,000mi.
    I just had it in the shop for an oil change and alignment job. I was told that the transmission electrical plug was leaking, so I had that fixed as well. I was also told that I need new front brake pads (already had them replaced at about 45,000mi) and rotor and rear brake pads @ $600. After the alignment, they noticed that the control arm bushings are loose, and may need to be replaced in the near future @ $545.
    I have had the ESP code ("ELEC. STABIL. PROG. Visit Workshop! ESP") come up and go a number of times this winter. I just figured snow accumulated on the sensor, and then melted. The ESP warning light came on while at the shop, and the tech noticed many error codes in the computer, which he cleared. My service writer says that the computer may be going, since there were many codes that needed to be cleared. So, I may have to be replacing that in the near future. I don't know how much that is going to cost...
    Should I keep the car (I do love it and it's almost paid-off) or get something else, since I would like to get a bigger car or SUV now that the kids are getting bigger.
    Thanks!
  • vincap28vincap28 Posts: 4
    I have a 96 C220. I have been having a problem with the wiper. It gets stuck, or hung up in the middle of its sweep. It happens on a regular basis, more so when its colder outside. It works fine sometimes so I don't think its the motor. Has anyone had similar problems. The dealer said it would require 3 hours of labor just to identify the poblem (can you say rip off!).
  • boomchekboomchek Vancouver, BC, CanadaPosts: 5,108
    I have a 2001 C240 with about 100k miles (157000kms).

    Although it's hard to predict what the future holds for your car, imagine you fast forward about 13000 miles and here's what might happen, or at least it's happening on my car:

    Power steering pump leaking, about $1000cdn to fix it, probably much cheaper in US

    Need brakes as well,

    Spark plugs need to be changed every 100k miles (previous owner changed them early on mine, so I don't have to worry), but there's two spark plugs per cylinder, so that could cost a bit as there's 12 total.

    Having problems starting recently. Engine cranks over but does not start sometimes. Could be fuel pump, or crank position sensor, or the starter, goota get it checked next week.

    Other than that I have some minor electrical gremlins that keep popping up but don't affect the car's drivability or operation.

    I love my Benz too, but it's a little frustrating sometimes with the shabby reliability.

    If you pay it off, put aside about $2000 a year for maintenance and repairs just to be safe.

    2007 BMW 328i Sports Pkg, 1993 Honda Accord EXR (my 33rd car).

  • smwls8smwls8 Posts: 103
    I am close to pulling the trigger on this one, 48K miles. I know nothing about this 1.8 liter engine with a blower. Anyone out there have any experience with it? This one is an auto transmission.

    Thank you,
    Sam White
  • vivid1vivid1 Posts: 24
    The SC'd 4banger is a good motor. My uncle just rolled 181k miles in his. Still runs like new. He has done normal maintenance through out the years.
  • smwls8smwls8 Posts: 103
    I scanned this thread last night after posting my message. Seems like a lot of other issues with the C, but the other car I'm looking at is an 03 Audi Allroad with the 2.7T engine, another complex vehicle.

    Thanks again....
  • fitnessfitness Posts: 4
    I have a 2001 C240 with the glove box mounted 6 CD changer. I ejected the CD magazine while a CD was playing and now the system will not play a CD. The radio works fine and the display shows CD& track numbers but no sound.Any ideas anyone? Thanks.
  • boomchekboomchek Vancouver, BC, CanadaPosts: 5,108
    Is the CD stuck in there or did you get all the CDs out?

    2007 BMW 328i Sports Pkg, 1993 Honda Accord EXR (my 33rd car).

  • piasonpiason Posts: 55
    What does it cost for a brake job on the 2005 / 2006 C280?
  • vivid1vivid1 Posts: 24
    Get a quote from a few places. Brakes are not that hard if you know a little about cars. I assume you just need new pads?

    I have 32k miles on a 04 240 and have not needed pads yet.
  • meinwameinwa Posts: 4
    I forgot that the spark plugs need to be changed at 100K mi...
    I went ahead and traded in the Benz for an SUV. I got a great deal on both the new car, and the trade-in on my C240. :)
  • gabdadgabdad Posts: 1
    47,000 miles both front and rear making noise(bushings?), fuel sending unit just went, & now check engine light is on and car is driving rough. I believe it is oxtgen sensor. Is this common for the C class. Thinking of trading it in for a 2006 C280. Feeling on the 280 anything to look out for? Also do you think the rought drving (check engine light) is a oxygen sensor? :sick:
  • dorivaldorival Posts: 1
    Hi I am an owner of a Mercedes Benz C240 1998 European model and I am noticing that on many occasions the vehicle refuses to pass 4000 RPM, the fuel does seems to shut down after [non-permissible content removed] passes 4000RPM. Another issue is that if the vehicle is not properly warmed, it stutters and refuses to drive normally, not sure what is the cause.
  • greenboxgreenbox Posts: 7
    Sorry I didn't read your message sooner. It's been a busy winter. If your ESP light is still coming on it could be any of many things, some irrelevant and some serious. When my 2001 C240 was new the light came on about 3 times in the first year. I'd take it to the dealership (it was under warranty) and they didn't find anything. They cleared the codes and that was that. Eventually I got tired of wasting days out of my life visiting the dealership for nothing. The worst that can happen if your ESP does fail is that the car drives like a car that doesn't have ESP.

    HOWEVER, in later years I found out that the ESP light is a catch-all for all sorts of problems. In my case (when the car was 5 years old) it was trying to tell me that the innards of my fuel pump were decomposing and clogging up my recently-replaced fuel filter. That has nothing to do with ESP.

    Bottom line: you can ignore ESP for awhile but get it checked eventually because it just might be trying to tell you something serious.

    I'm still hoping Lexus will come out with a manual transmission so I can trade in this cantankerous vehicle that's "engineered like no other car in the world"... thank goodness.
  • bufnitabufnita Posts: 6
    I can't find an answer to this question, so i hope somebody can help me here. Why does the 2006 C230's fuel economy is 21/30 and the 2007 C230's is 19/25. They both have the same 2.5L V6, 7 speed auto. The new EPA guidelines are not in effect until the 2008 models come out.
  • vivid1vivid1 Posts: 24
    It could be to the intake manifold is a different size. They could have made a slight adjustment to the size of the intake manifold runners for smoother exceleration or more power.
  • I have gotten the Undervoltage Consumer Defective message several times, then it went away. Thursday got alternator/battery warning light. When I tried to start it Sunday it was dead. I installed a new battery and am getting no error message. Why did that message come on? Could it have been the battery? If the alternator is not charging should I get an error now? Thanks.
  • fsmmcsifsmmcsi Posts: 792
    How often do all of you think the front wheel bearnings hould be cleaned and repacked with grease?
  • c240ndcc240ndc Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem on my 05 c240 4matic. At least once or twice a month the navigation/sound system just stops working. The dealer has NO CLUE how to fix this (of course, everytime I take it in to be fixed, the stereo and nav are working!). A small prayer before getting in the car and starting it up doesn't work either! :) Any ideas on how to fix this? When it happens, I am able to open up my CD changer and remove CDs, but I cannot open the command navigation screen and get to the individual cd unit.
  • stramstram Posts: 3
    At 53,010 miles, the engine began shaking while idling at stop light, and the "Check Engine" warning light lit up. We had the car towed to Buena Park (southern Calif) dealer. They found a cracked air hose (something to do with the compressor), and replaced it. We bought this car in May 2004, and did not expect the air hose had cracked so soon. We begin to wonder what may be next. :confuse:
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