Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Mercedes-Benz C-Class Maintenance and Repair

12324262829

Comments

  • vivid1vivid1 Posts: 24
    doesnt sound right at all. Brake lines are run along the frame rail. I would get another opinion. Where is it leaking?
  • syvettesyvette Posts: 2
    The leak is up where the line disappears into the wheel well, and this, according to the service manager, is why it's such a problem. Even so, can it be that labor intensive to remove a gas tank. The dealer said that they had not encountered this problem before on a 230, so maybe the estimate reflects their uncertainty. But, really.
  • rowlandjrowlandj Posts: 254
    You really should get another opinion for sure. Brake lines are run in channels in the frame and should be easily changed out. At worst they have to disconnect that line from the front distribution block and at the rear by the brake caliper.

    That price sounds like enough time to remove and replace an engine. Just insane.

    Good Luck.
  • hanspalhanspal Posts: 1
    Can someone tell me how to reset double wrench sign (srevice B) on instrument cluster after service.
  • vivid1vivid1 Posts: 24
    you use the stearing wheel functions until it says service a or b due. then you push the odometer reset button and hold it till it asks you if you are sure you want to reset service. then you hold it again till it resets.
  • dmcdanieldmcdaniel Posts: 1
    Just bought a '04 MB C320 and the Up/Down and Back/Forward Electric Steering was working great. Other day when getting in the car the tilt decided to stay in the upward position but yet the Back/Forward still works. Called the dealership and they said it was more than likely the motor and would cost me $600 to fix it plus $150 to diagnose the problem. I'm a female on limited buget and this is quite an expense. Has anyone experience this problem and is it a less expensive repair than what i'm being told.
  • vivid1vivid1 Posts: 24
    Check the fuse. You can look up the location in the manual. that would be a 30 cent fix.
  • The back of the driver's seat fell off. It looks like there were some type of clips on the top of the panel that are broken. How can I either get replacement clips or otherwise fix this without taking it to a dealership?

    Thanks!
  • huntzingerhuntzinger Posts: 350
    Just wanted to pass this one along. This was on a 2002 C230K (Coupe), but probably has broader application.

    The story starts with a problem from a couple of months ago, where I had a parking brake shoe stick and thus, drag and burn out the pad, so I had the car in for replacement parking brakes.

    After said servicing, the parking brake seemed very "tight": there was zero freeplay in the parking brake pedal, and it started to engage the parking brakes very early in its stroke and I thought I could hear a not-fully-released pad dragging (argh!).

    So naturally, I had the mechanic "loosen up" the cable on my next visit. Afterwords, everything was perfect for around a month, then one day, the parking brake pedal went to the floor and it was not holding - - it felt like a broken cable.

    The mechanic re-serviced it for free, but the problem recurred a week later, so I finally took a look at it myself, based on the mechanic's previous description of how easy the fix was (ie, why he did it for free).

    The design:

    The parking brake cable system is a single cable from the driver back to a point that's in the middle of the car, under the back seat (and above the drive axle).

    At this point, the single cable from up front effectively "splits" into two cables (one for each rear wheel). This is not a cable splice, but instead is an articulated hinged lever arrangement ... I should have take a photograph :-) To gain access, there's an access panel the size of a dessert plate in the middle of the back seat under the cushions... no need to go under the car or use a lift.

    Key design attributes:

    #1: there's an adjustment nut here with which you can alter the overall cable length for slack, etc.

    #2: the two rear cables are merely "hooked" into a floater bar that's on this hinged lever arrangement, so if you make the adjustment too loose, one of the cables can move over and pop out (mine was passenger's side), which then makes it feel like you've broken the parking brake cable.

    The fix:

    (a) remove the back seat and gain access through the top hatch.

    (b) find this 'hinged lever' cable arrangement and remove the nut all the way off the bolt.

    (c) Go to your junk bin and find a big old washer (or two) that's around a 1" outside diameter that will fit over the bolt shaft.

    (d) Put one or two of these washers on, then put the bolt back on and adjust the tension however you like.

    Result:

    Having a washer on the bolt shaft extends it out (like a flange) to block the "open" end of the slots where the rear cables hook in. Thus blocked, the rear cables can't move over to the end of the slot where they could fall out.

    -hh
  • dho1dho1 Posts: 1
    I am considering to buy a used 2004 C240 4Matic wagon. 41000KM. This car does not have much warranty time left. Can anyone tell me how reliable is this car? The body looks like new. Very clean car. I test drove it and it has a lot of power after pick up. perform well at corner and brake. This car seems has been taken care quite well. Very clean engine. Asking price is CND$23000.00 in Toronto/Canada. Seems no any damage. Does it sound like reasonable price?

    Danny
  • j_rohasj_rohas Posts: 6
    Someone knows the difference between the ignition coils Nrs. 0001587503 and 0001587003.
    My car (Mercedes C230 '97, engine Nr. 111.974) uses the Nr. 0001587503, but can someone say me if I can use the Nr. 0001587003 . or there is negative effect if I change it?
  • fellyfelly Posts: 16
    I'm going on my second A service for a C230. Any idea how much it will cost me? Thanks in advance
  • vivid1vivid1 Posts: 24
    Call up the dealer and get a quote. Each place will be different. My c240 service A and B was free up until 50k miles.
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,363
    Well, the strict answer is that it depends too much on where you're located, and the scope of the work.

    If it helps any, I just completed the first A-svc on our '08 C300 Lux - $170 without the tire rotation [I do all the tire rotations myself at home], at MB-Portland Oregon. From other sources, I deduce that I apparently got a bargain - others are quoting $230-$350 from urban locations as varied as Houston, Phoenix, and points in between. The W204 A-svc consists of an oil and filter change, and the usual misc checks of brakes, fluids, etc.

    The variance between the lowest number and the highest number for the same work seems to be 100% - depending on where you are, labor costs, and just how much the local dealer thinks he can get away with.
  • fellyfelly Posts: 16
    Thanks for the quick response. I'm located in Iowa. I've heard different quotes from $200-$350. Thanks for the heads up on the tire rotation. If I can skip that to save some cash I'll do it.
  • fitnessfitness Posts: 4
    I have an '01 C240 with the glove box mounted CD player. I ejected the magazine while a CD was playing and now it will not operate. It will display either NO MAGAZINE or that a particular slot has no CD.
    Any suggestions or do I have to replace it?
    Also, I am getting a lot of drive belt squeaking which goes away briefly when I use a belt dressing. I have heard that overuse of the spray can do more harm than good. My dealer told me this model does not have a water pump problem and that the belts are probably glazed. I am coming up on the B service (70,000 miles).
    Anyone with similar experience?
    Thanks.
  • macs01macs01 Posts: 2
    Hello,
    First, congratulations on this great site! Second, my question:
    Do I need to replace a complete alternator unit for a 2003 Mercedes Benz C240 Sedan (4 cylinder manual) if I get an "Alternator Bat" message on the dashboard? We have already checked and both the battery and alternator are working as they should. The certified mechanic that did the tests told us that we will have to change the whole unit, that the piece that is not working, cannot be changed individually (an electronic monitoring device I suppose). Is there any way I could just change that piece and not have to install a new unit like the mechanic says? Many thanks in advance for your help,
    regards,
    Macs
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,363
    Don't know the answer, but will observe that your C240 is a 2.6 liter V6, not a 4 cyl.

    Suggest taking your question to MBCA.org [the Mercedes Club] if you don't get a response within a reasonable time. I suspect a wiring or other connectivity issue, but I can also think of a half dozen possible causes....
  • macs01macs01 Posts: 2
    It is a 6 cylinder, you are correct, it was a mistype on my part. Thanks for the help. I'll check out the Mercedes club and see if they have heard of this issue. Many thanks again,
    regards,
    Macs
  • I own a 2003 Mercedes C230 Kompressor, I've been having problems w/ my veh since I purchased it. My veh has 122 k miles. I've paid thousands of dollars in reprs. Warranty ran out @ 50k miles. From the first months of ownership I complained about the reving type jumping of the vehicle & it was expln'd that the veh was idling properly & that's just the way it sounds & feels. I just recently found out by reading the shops copy of documentation that it was noted my veh surges while stopped or in prk. I have had just about every sensor, adjuster & hoses replaced & still no luck. This is not what i expected from a mercedes. Pls help. melon law contacted too late.



    Optional Information:
    2003 Mercedes-Benz C230 Kompressor 1.8 Liter

    Already Tried:
    Everything, several diagnosis that differ for the most part. (2)Mercedes Prts Mgrs who discouraged me from purchasing a mass airflow sensor and "another" engine harness. Both of which stated some of the prts i was claimimg to have had repaired were prts uncommonly needed for such an early model veh & for a Mercedes none the less. Both Prts Mgrs went over to the Service Dept, checked my veh history & had a lengthly conversation w/ the Mercedes Service Mgr. I was promised a follow up by the fellow who oversees the Mercedes Service Dept but it's been 5 weeks & no f/u. I had my veh in yesterday & the f/u conversation was supposed to take place then but of course I was told Bob Walls just left? I'm not sure why he never called me yesterday or the days prior to yesterday. I purchased the mercedes expecting exceptional quality. I figured i was getting what mercedes promises " A Great Quality Veh." What i have rec'd is far from it. I've kept all receipts & service records if needed. My vehicle repair histories extensive.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,226
    So... in short: your vehicle's revs surge while sitting still. Is this correct?
    How much of a variation are we talking about? Does it jump from 750 at idle to 1000? Or is it more significant? Any other problems or repercussions of this problem?

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • Good morning qbrozen, thank u for responding.
    Yes i was unaware of what it was called (surging) until Tues Aug. 19th after reading the dealerships copy of the paperwrk. (This was not noted on my copy???). I have reported this problem for (3)yrs now by describing what it sounds & feels like. I even noted how the lgts tend to dim & how the ac or heater power dulls when this happens but for the past 3 yrs i was told by the dlrshp that nothing happened when they test drove the veh. I disputed their findings & confirmed what was happening just by starting the vhe in frt of them. It sounds like a put put once it's running for a while, on the start up it sounds like it's taking deep breaths gasping for air & after going over 45 for any length of time it gets worse. I haven't driven on the hwy for over a year because it will shutr off once i'm back to drvg thru the city & have @ times found myself putting the veh in neutral when stopped & lightly rev'g the gas so no-one hears it. But if your in the veh its putts causing the occupants to slightly bounce fwd & back. Let me not forget the smell they claimed they never smelled before my warranty ran. rgt after my warranty ran it was checked for the smell & wrk was done @ my expense even though it was an ongoing problem.

    The dlrshp @ one point had my veh longer than I had it avail to me to drive
    I've paid just as much in repr costs as i have for the veh itself. I've never had a veh give me problems like this, none the less straight out the gate. Prev vehs owned: Lincoln Town car, Chevy cavalier, Corvette and a Chrysler Sebring.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,226
    what kind of smell? is it possibly a bit like rotten eggs? If so, sounds like you may have a bad catalytic converter.

    So its an '03 with 122k miles and you've been complaining about it for 3 years. But you said you've had problems since it was new? Or did you buy it used? If used, how many miles did it have when you bought it? Was this the same problem the whole time? Was it not noticeable on the test drive prior to purchase?

    I'm just trying to narrow it down a bit more. At first, it sounded like a vacuum leak, but then you mentioned the dimming lights, which is an indication that the engine is trying to stall. So right now, its sounding like a catalytic converter. But if that went bad very early on, then there is something else wrong that caused the cat to fail.

    You need to tell us all of the repairs that have been done thus far to try to correct the problem.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • I purchased my Mercedes 2003 C230 Kompressor June 28th 2003 w/ 39 miles on it:
    First A service & compaint reported:
    09-18-03 6k miles Door seal coming off & hesitation/banging out of park &idiling too high
    Mind you i did not know the proper terminology of what was happening I only descrbed to the Service Dept what I was experiencing & they gave it a description/name.
    MB advised veh was operating as designed.
    3-24-04 18k miles. Service A. Also service reset was not performed during last service.
    9-2-04 29k miles. Service B
    11-9-04 34k miles. Exterior Bulb Failure.
    MB determined electrical problem.
    2-10-05 41k miles Service A & hdlamp repair, taillamp bulb & wipers . Brakes & rotors.
    4-21-05 46k bulbs r/f hdlamp & brake pad warning

    I believe this service write up is **key** because it was handwritten on a carbon copy form real small, not on the normal computer generated print out & only given because i req'd my receipt. The Tech also failed to write my cars actual mileage on the date of service. But as you can see it was w/i the warranty time period!!!!
    ***05-07-05 Check engine lgt on (warranty) no note on what was wrong or done to fix the problem & my reason for bringing the veh in was not listed either***

    6-1-05 49k cracked strut bushings repr'd
    7-19-05 Coolant warning lamp 54k miles slightly low no leaks
    Brake warning lgt on, MB Service Dept recommended new brakes, I then advised them that i had just had new brakes put on in May???
    They replaced the rgt frt brake wire sensor & reg service a was performed
    7-20-05 veh returned for the smell & servuce counter reset
    MB replaced leaking oil filter housing
    Veh has gone in several times for sunroof problems and bulb problems around the outside of the veh.
    MB repr'd bulb problems several times w/ cable & wiring harness installations. MB replaced wind deflector arm, linkage & repaired sliding roof elect function. Prkg brake peddle & plastic on bthe rgt sd under the passenger seat fell off.
    8-18-05 Low oil indicator & burning smell reported 57k
    MB returned the veh stating no fault found/no leaking & oil level was correct
    10-12-05 62k Check engine lgt on
    MB repaired/replaced fuel pump fuel filter & advised if check engine lgt comes back on veh will need a mass air flow sensor, rec'd credit for bulb wrk needed again which should have been cov'd under orig warranty.
    11-7-05 Car running poorly, ?'d spark plug issue. 63k
    MB found Crankcase breather hose split, replaced hose, reset misfire & adaptation codes. Completed service B
    12-20-05 66k. Complaint Running poorly.
    MB stated same was due to a sticking valve. Replaced all exhaust valve springs & valve springs.
    1-02-06 Check engine lgt on & off stutters wants to stop 67k miles.
    MB states compression leakage, R&R cylinder head leakage, gasket cover, expansion pl & seal rings
    4-22-06 75k miles A service
    6-9-06 Check engine lgt on 79k miles.
    MB replaced faulty oxygen sensor & sender unit
    8-14-06 84k miles. Check engine lgt on & burnt oil smell complaint.
    MB replaced 02 sensor after catalytic convertor & sender unit. MB could not duplicate burnt oil smell ?
    10-5-06 89k miles. Engine lgt was on again, along w/ the oil lgt & brake lgts.
    MB replaced the coolant sensor, cleared codes & replaced the coolant fitting @ the reservoir. Tech advised oil level was ok & adjusted level from 3/4's. MB noted brakes were new & reset brake warning indicator.
    6-18-07 107k miles. Same complaint rough ride/idle
    MB replaced #1 Ignition coil & suggested other coils soon.

    7-03-07 101k miles. Same complaint engine running rough.
    MB replaced coolant temp & thermostat sensors & suggested possible add'l coil replacement.
    2-20-08 118k miles. Same Complaint check engine lgt, burning smell & puttering.
    MB noted camshaft adjuster leak, oil in engine harness, belts & mass airflow sensor needed.
    Caring for my mom who recently passed away from Pancreatic Cancer & was unable to have prts ordered & repaired ubntil June/July wromg prts were given on the first trip.
    Rec'd (2) other diagnosis that differed from Dealerships noted in first post.
    8-19-08 recall wrk was performed,& meeting w/ MB Rep that oversees the shop who never showed as previously discussed.
    ***Pls also note that I copied another message written on the dealers copy of my wrk orderr Tues noting Air inlet pipe turn/ some current codes***
    This was not written on my customer copy & while speaking w/ the prts dept the following day to ? the cost of the prts & this procedure they stated that the air inlet pipe could not be turned....

    Outside repairs completed:
    11-13-04 prt# 203-670-60-12 SOPBU SIDE W
    3-28-06 brakes prt#003-420-59-20
    10-5-06 frt & rear pads replaced
    4-6-07 Oil change & Coolant temp sensor

    5-21-07 Spark plugs
    5-24-07 prt#000-159-49-42 SOM111
    11-7-07 oil change
    6-12-08 Inspection lamp bulb replacement & wheel lug bolt
    7-1-08 Serpentine/fan belt, seals & (2) camshaft adjusters along w/ reg service/oil change & 2 bulb replacements.
    All Service A & B operations have always been completed on time,.
    Tires always purchased thru Just Tirws w/ warranty throughout my vehs life.

    ***PLS NOTE I HAVE MORE RECEIPTS BUT THERE OUT IN THE CAR****
  • boomchekboomchek Vancouver, BC, CanadaPosts: 5,108
    Wow. It sounds like your dealer is not very cooperative about all of these issues. I'd talk with somebody from MB USA head office, and discuss aboiut the times you brought it in for work, and they didn't log in what the problem or solution was.

    I'm surprised you're still holding on to the car after all of this.

    I'd sell the car as it's out of warranty, and it's going to start costing you even more. Cut your losses, stop chasing after incompetent service advisors and managers who can't figure out your problem, and get yourself some thing reliable.

    2007 BMW 328i Sports Pkg, 1993 Honda Accord EXR (my 33rd car).

  • Yes, I wish. My car has sentimental value that I'm trying to grow up & get past. ( I purchased this veh for my Mom who recently passed & hated to drive. It's funny we both hated/hate to drive but used to travel many miles together. Not only did we carpool but hung out together.My car is paid off & i was trying to avoid having to start making pymts again. W/o my mom I have picked up her bills along w/ mine until I can sell her home I will not be in a position to purchase any costly items.
    And did I mention I lost my full time job while caring for my mom & am currently only wrk'g my part time job. Not to pour it on I have to pay a sister to keep an eye on my older brother who is MR but very street smart but he has epilepsy (uncontrolled drop falls) which we do not allow him to bath, cook or hangout on his own anymore.

    GOD WILL PROVIDE
    Thank you guys for trying to help
    I'm gonna keep researching this
  • boomchekboomchek Vancouver, BC, CanadaPosts: 5,108
    All I can say is good luck.

    Keeping a car for sentimental value might make sense if that car is not going to make you bankrupt.

    I had a similiar situation with my 01 C2450 where it was costing me a ton of money to keep it on the road. Small things kept breaking, and I finally got rid of it. The repairs and problems are not going to stop. They'll sto only if you replace the car or park it and not drive it.

    The sooner you get rid of it the better you'll feel about it, trust me.

    2007 BMW 328i Sports Pkg, 1993 Honda Accord EXR (my 33rd car).

  • rzenrzen Posts: 2
    It does sound related to the catalytic converter. Either the converter itself being bad or excessive fuel through the cylinders into the converter. The excessive fuel would would cause extra catalytic action causing a back pressure essentially choking the engine.

    If it gets worse as you drive, I'd guess excessive fuel...possibly a vacuum valve with a leaking diaphragm in the fuel system.

    If the 'surging' remains relatively constant, I'd guess the catalytic converter itself.

    Either one would cause the emissions to be off. Can you get an emissions check to see what that might point to?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,226
    This just gets more and more complicated.

    I'm with boomcheck. It looks like you've been the victim of a pisspoor service department.

    For vacuum and/or cat problems, there are a couple of things you could do yourself if you are so inclined. First thing is the cat. If it is clogged and causing problems, it will typically get very hot very fast. If left running for a while, it may even GLOW red. This is one thing to keep an eye on. At the same time, you can check the exhaust coming out the tailpipe. Make sure it really is coming out in full force. I know, its not easy to tell or even fullproof, but worth a check. As for vacuum leaks, ye ole method is to take a can of starting fluid and spray a little bit at a time around the various seals and hoses. If the engine races quickly and briefly, you've found your leak. Just make sure the engine isn't too hot when doing this. We don't want any ignition of the starting fluid outside the engine should you happen to spray it on something too hot (like the exhaust manifold).

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

Sign In or Register to comment.