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Mercedes-Benz C-Class Maintenance and Repair



  • Pity indeed since the car is a real pleasure to drive, but all roads seem to lead to the service department.

    At the time of my last post, when the car had been towed back to the service department that it had left 41 miles earlier, I was just leaving on a 4-week road trip. I had to go in my 1996 Nissan Sentra XE, which hadn't even been prepped for the trip and had 130,000 miles on it. It ran like a trouper for the whole 5,000 mile trip.

    Meanwhile, what was wrong with the Mercedes? It was out of gas! But the gauge said I had 1/3 tank! Part of the work they'd done on the previous trip to the service department was to replace the fuel sensor because (while diagnosing the fuel pump problem) they had discovered it was slightly faulty. They replaced it with a new one that was TOTALLY faulty! That's the second time that a new Mercedes part installed by a dealership turned out to be faulty.

    It is indeed a pity that Mercedes seems determined to ruin an excellent 100-year reputation.
  • Don't do it! See my posts over the last few months for details. Toyotas are great cars, so are Nissans. If you really want a luxury car try a Lexus they're made by Toyota. That's what I'm going to look at next time. Infinities (made by Nissan) don't impress me as being worth the luxury price.
  • Interesting. I am experiencing similar issues with my 2001 C 320 with only 42k miles. Replaced the battery and the problem undervoltage came back. Have been getting intermittent check engine but no one can find a problem. Frustrating for an expensive car with little mileage.
  • ksandyksandy Posts: 1
    Hello I know it has been a while , did you ever figure what this problem is and how serious it is ,I am havign the exact same problem , in my 2002 c230 K with 34,000 miles,
    So far the weird noice comes only on startup if it is not used for more than a day or 2 ,

    please advice , should I get rid of it ?

    Thanks in advance
  • Although this posting is aimed @ the C Class, friends with E's and other newer MB's confirm similar issues. In short, I've owned a 240D for 26 years with little or no maintenance issues. However, my C Class has been a nightmare. After spending >$4000 in repairs in 2006, in Jan 2007 the dealer informed me that $3000 would be required because the engine wiring harness needed to be replaced. In short, the plastic insulation was cracking off at just 110,000 miles. Independent service groups told me that they have seen this many times as well. In a previous life, I made wiring harnesses for US & European car companies & the insulation should last forever (>30 years).

    MB USA was TOTALLY impossible to talk to & arogant. They would NOT return phone calls that requested warranty coverage for the harness & eventually I received a curt "FOAD" letter from a person @ MB USA that didn't even include a last name!

    In short, I "traded" (i.e. gave away) the C Class for a great Lexus I250 last week. When my old 240D eventually is replaced, it will be a Lexus, or Acura, or (possibly) a BMW; but NOT another MB!

    Avoid the three pointed star (it is a disguised Chrysler!).

  • dc518dc518 Posts: 1
    Does anyone know the answer to this I am having the same problem right now..No wipers, directionals, hazards, gas gauge etc.. please help before the mercedes vultures suck me
  • vivid1vivid1 Posts: 24
    Did you check the fuse box? That is the first place to check if those things dont work.

    The manual says to disconnect the ground wire first and then the positive wire. Did you do that. Connect it visa versa.
  • Hello fellow MB drivers. This site was great when I purchased this auto a few years ago and now I'm back.
    I'm hoping you can help me out since I'm not sure whats going on with my 2001 C240. I have not drove my car in the past 6 weeks and was planning on taking it out this weekend. I jumped in, turned the key and nothing ... car would not crank over. The lights on the dash lite up but the engine would not turn over. I was thinking I might have a bad battery from sitting, so I place a battery charger on the car overnight. Came back the next day and the same thing, lights on the dash but engine will not turn over. I placed the charger on the battery for another 24 hours. Still nothing. Now I'm thinking it might not be the battery but something else. I noticed that I cannot put the car in Neutral or just get it out of Park. Is there something that I might be overlooking? I've tried both of my key fobs. Let me know your thoughts. Someone had mentioned a faulty brake switch, could that be right? Thanks!
  • boomchekboomchek Vancouver, BC, CanadaPosts: 5,100
    Unless your battery is really dead and not chargeable. It is 6 years old.

    See if you can get a direct jump start from someone or a battery booster thing-a-majig and if that doesn't work, then start looking at the complicated stuff.

    2007 BMW 328i Sports Pkg, 1993 Honda Accord EXR (my 33rd car).

  • shampshamp Posts: 1
    I know my reply is a little late. However, I hope it can be of some use. I have a '01 C320 and I the same experience during the fall 2005. Every morning I'd need a jump; the battery was replaced and afterwards it read good but the car wouldn't start. Finally, the tech came out one morning and said let me try something. He unplugged the computer from under my driver seat and the problem went away just like that. It's an inconvenience but unless you have the time to allow for computer replacement. Set your driver seat and unplug it and your problem should go away. GOOD LUCK!
  • Hello All. I have read your posts regarding dead batteries on C-Class Mercedes. I have a 2002 C320. Recently I noticed that the car has been a little hesitant when starting in the morning until finally it would not start at all. In fact, if left parked for long enough, the battery would drain so much that the doors would not unlock. I jumped the car and then it started but the same scenario was encountered the following morning. I replaced the battery and it seemed to fix the problem. However, after a couple weeks it began to die down and eventually drained completely.

    Since I am way over the warranty period I decided to troubleshoot myself. My plan was to remove fuses one at a time until the problem went away. The problem with that is that a single fuse on this car controls many different functions. While I was thinking about what to do next I noticed a very subtle hum coming from somewhere in the car. I tracked it down to the vent hole on the front dome light and sunroof control unit. There is a small cooling motor in there that runs constantly even when the vehicle is turned off. I removed the entire unit and the car started fine the next morning. Upon inspection of this part, I found that the fan has a small sensor that causes it to turn off and on. I am going to clean it up from all the dust and reinstall. If this does not resolve the issue, I found a complete replacement unit on Ebay for $299.99. the part number is A203820-1401.

    So if your C-Class battery is draining, this gives you one more thing to check before spending thousands with the dealer.
  • Hello again - I just wanted to give everyone an update with my C240 starting problems. Yes, it ended up being a defective battery. The battery was original and would not hold a charge. I replaced the battery with an Interstate Brand Model # MTP-93 B7. The car started right up with no problems.
    Replacing the battery will take you a few minutes but can be accomplished by yourself. You will need a 8 - 12" extenstion for your socket set to remove the plate that holds the battery at the bottom (right side). Here are the steps that I used.
    1. Remove the interior air filter that sits above battery. To remove unfasten the three top clips. Unit can be remove in a upward motion.
    2. Remove ground wire from battery terminal (left side)
    3. Remove orange cap covering positive battery terminal
    4. Remove positive battery terminal
    5. Need to loosen up nuts that hold bottom battery plate (plate is located at the bottom, right side of battery)
    6. Loosen each nut. One is located at the front right the other rear right. You will need an extension on your socket set to be able to reach them. take your time, not much space to get at these nuts.
    7. Remove battery by hanges. Be careful, battery is heavy and not in a very easy manageable position. Lift straight up.
    8. Place new battery in. Keep in mind to attach positive terminal first then ground.
  • Hello Fellow C Class Owners - I have a 2001 C240 that started to display an error within the dashboard display. The unit shows "ELEC. STABIL. PROG. Visit Workshop! ESP". Does anyone know what this means and if this is a major problem? The car seems to drive fine so I'm unsure on how fast I need to get into the service garage. Any insight you can provide would be most grateful! Thanks All
  • boomchekboomchek Vancouver, BC, CanadaPosts: 5,100
    This indicates that there is a problem with your Electronic Stability Program.

    It's the program that keeps your car on the road if you're oversteering or understeering. Traction control is also built into that program. So when you step on the gas too hard it limits wheelspin.

    There is a button on the dash right where the power lock button/rear headrest buttons are located.

    You might be able to switch it off but then you won't have that safety of ESP or Traction Control.

    Don't know what the cause might be, maybe it's just reprogramming a computer.

    2007 BMW 328i Sports Pkg, 1993 Honda Accord EXR (my 33rd car).

  • hello i'm about to buy an mercedes c220 cdi year 2001 but the car got a problem that dont let the car pass the 3000 rpm and 130km/h. The diagnostics from mercedes is:

    P1630-016 - Autorisation de conduite. le calculateur autorisation de conduite ne repond pas.

    P1470-016 - Regulation de la pression de suralimentacion Ecart de regulation positif[la pression de suralimentacion es trop basse]

    its in french but its easy to understand...
    french mercedes say that probably is the vacum pipes need to be replaced i think!!!!
    they say (in french):
    "mecedes me dit que ce sont probablement les catalyseurs qui commencent à se boucher "
    probably the catalysts which start to be stopped

    can someone give-me a clue of whats is wrong wiht the car???? and if its to expensive to repair???
    thx in avanced
  • fsmmcsifsmmcsi Posts: 792
    Has anyone else changed theor front brake pads? I am changing the front brake pads on our 2002 C230 K today.

    Rather than a simple spring which rubs against the rotor to signal to the driver that the pads are worn out, M-B used a needlessly complex electrical system. There is a sensor installed to the inside pad. It has two wires, so there are 8 wires and all of the associated mounting hardware and so forth to accomplish the same thing GM and Ford do with little pieces of steel attached to one pad at each wheel.

    I really could say that I am trying to change the brake pads today, as the left front wheel is firmly rusted to the rotor. I have soaked it with pentrating oil. For now, putting the weight of the car on it, or kicking the tire has no effect. I have never seen such a thing before, so hope the penetrating oil works. Has anyone else had the same problem?
  • fsmmcsifsmmcsi Posts: 792
    Well, I finally got the wheel off using lots of penetrating oil and a by putting a flat bar at the joint between the wheel and rotor/hub and banging way with a five pound hammer. The aluminum of the wheel was very slightly roughed-up in a small spot, so I smoothed it with a file, and used sandpaper to clean the wheel mounting surface and the coresponding disc/hub surface.

    To my surprise, I discovered that there is not a wear sensor on the left front brake. I wonder if they switched the sensor to the left side on the right hand drive versions? Whatever, the simple little spring clip which rubs againist the rotor on GM and Ford vehicles is present on at four wheels, making it even better.

    The only other problems with the car have been a transmission leak where the wires enter the transmission, a problem which was also common on the Chrysler which use the same transmission design, and sort sort of loose wire under the hood. Of course both were fixed under warranty.

    One almost humorous, though not at the time, event involved the dealer here. My wife took the car for the routine oil change and service, but after returning the loner car, they could not find the car! After about two hours they found it on the lot, and returned it filthy dirty. It was clean when we left it, but they said that they could not clean it,as the car was was closed - it seems they do not have a bucket, soap, and rags.
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,644
    You're thinking of buying a 2001 Benz with error codes? Don't do that.

    You probably know that the error codes don't tell you the exact problem...they only indicate the area affected. So really the codes could be quite misleading. Mechanics often replace the wrong components because they don't diagnose more deeply.

    Might be as simple as EGR, rich mixture due to bad sensor, blah blah. Someone's got to dig deeper.

    Doesn't sound disastrous though.
  • The driver power seat (which enables the seat cushion to go up and down and driver's chair forward and back) is not working. The passenger's power seat works just fine. My C240 4Matic has 66,700 miles and just went in for service 3 days ago to change the voltage regulator and battery. However, the driver's power seat worked just fine when I got it back.

    Does anyone think it might be the fuse (which is located in a compartment on the left side of the dashboard)? Should I first try changing the fuse, and then the motor?

    Any feedback would be greatly appreciated!!!!!!!
  • boomchekboomchek Vancouver, BC, CanadaPosts: 5,100
    Tell the place where you got your stuff fixed, that it worked before and now it doesn't. Maybe they messed something up.

    2007 BMW 328i Sports Pkg, 1993 Honda Accord EXR (my 33rd car).

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