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Mercedes-Benz C-Class Maintenance and Repair



  • huntzingerhuntzinger Posts: 350
    Looks like I have the W203...but didn't feel brave enough to risk popping it off and have the wife yell at me :-)

    I did find something else quite odd in that it looks like my back seats won't properly flip down ... seems to have a new (third) plastic clip thing between the hinges under the knees that's in the wrong position or something. Have to wonder just what the shop did to the car the last time it was in (I had them searching for a possible loose ground on the radio antenna amplifier).

  • scscarsscscars Posts: 92

    Thanks for your advice. By looking at other sites including the one you recommended, I was able to develop a list of possible culprits for the gas smell that included the fuel pump housing (turned out OK), a leaky fuel injector (Thankfully, not a problem. That is a very expensive repair), and bad fuel rail seals (Close, but not quite it). The problem turned out to be a worn out fuel pressure regulator that leaked fumes due to deterioration in the unit brought on by cold weather.

    Apparently, this is a growing problem in W203 engines and older C-Class models (1997-01) according to the mechanic, so W203 and earlier C-Class owners, beware. Repair costs are reasonable for this problem on a W203--about $135. Parts costs for other MB engine types might be higher depending on engine type and age.
  • mark_wnymark_wny Posts: 64
    I visited a dealer in Northeast US to look at an '05 CPO 240 4matic w/ 25K miles. Was surprised when service mgr outlined "normal maintenance items" -

    oil service every 10k miles - cost $180 - $300
    new brake rotors every 20 - 24K miles - cost $1050
    new tires every 20 - 24K miles - cost $800

    Is this normal? :confuse:
  • vivid1vivid1 Posts: 24
    Oil Service every 10k is right. Mine was free until 50,000 miles with my dealer. Just an oilchange at my dealer is 80 bucks.

    New brake rotors every 24k is not right. I did 55k on my wifes 240 until I changed them. Dealer was charging about 800. I did it myself. took about 2 hours.

    New tires every 20k??? No way. I have 55k on my original tires. New tires for this car are about 450-550. You dont have to buy them from a dealer. Go to a tire store. I going to buy some very soon. These still have an ok amount of tread left.
  • mark_wnymark_wny Posts: 64
    thanks vivid for the info.
  • rzenrzen Posts: 2
    I have a 02 C230 which I just purchased. I released the front passenger seat and put the seatback forward to get ready for a rear passenger. The seat automatically moved forward, and when it did, the headrest(which was in the highest position) got wedged between the winsheild, and the top of the head liner in front of the visor. The seat controls on the passenger side are not working now, and I cannot figure out how to unwedge the seat. Can anyone tell me how to fix this issue?
  • j_rohasj_rohas Posts: 6
    Reading old posts could to determinate that I can't change my MBC230's oil myself.
    Looks like this car doen's have a crankcase cap to drain the oil, and I need a oil pump or vaccum to drain the oil out. It's that true? or someone knows if this engine has a crankcase cap and where is it located.
  • rowlandjrowlandj Posts: 254
    You do need an extractor to get the oil out. I use a Pela unit, but you can get these devices at any marine supply house as it's the typical method for changing oil on inboard engines.

    Don't forget the right size socket for removal of the oil canister cap. I believe it's 27MM.
  • Did you ever figure this out?
    My mother's c230 does this consistently, in various pitches, anytime the fan is on for the climate control. THANKS
  • syvettesyvette Posts: 2
    My wife received a dealer estimate to replace a leaking rear brake line in a 2000 C230 Sport. The dealer says the gas tank must be removed along with a bunch of other things that are in the way. The estimate is $3,700.00. Can this be true?
  • vivid1vivid1 Posts: 24
    doesnt sound right at all. Brake lines are run along the frame rail. I would get another opinion. Where is it leaking?
  • syvettesyvette Posts: 2
    The leak is up where the line disappears into the wheel well, and this, according to the service manager, is why it's such a problem. Even so, can it be that labor intensive to remove a gas tank. The dealer said that they had not encountered this problem before on a 230, so maybe the estimate reflects their uncertainty. But, really.
  • rowlandjrowlandj Posts: 254
    You really should get another opinion for sure. Brake lines are run in channels in the frame and should be easily changed out. At worst they have to disconnect that line from the front distribution block and at the rear by the brake caliper.

    That price sounds like enough time to remove and replace an engine. Just insane.

    Good Luck.
  • hanspalhanspal Posts: 1
    Can someone tell me how to reset double wrench sign (srevice B) on instrument cluster after service.
  • vivid1vivid1 Posts: 24
    you use the stearing wheel functions until it says service a or b due. then you push the odometer reset button and hold it till it asks you if you are sure you want to reset service. then you hold it again till it resets.
  • dmcdanieldmcdaniel Posts: 1
    Just bought a '04 MB C320 and the Up/Down and Back/Forward Electric Steering was working great. Other day when getting in the car the tilt decided to stay in the upward position but yet the Back/Forward still works. Called the dealership and they said it was more than likely the motor and would cost me $600 to fix it plus $150 to diagnose the problem. I'm a female on limited buget and this is quite an expense. Has anyone experience this problem and is it a less expensive repair than what i'm being told.
  • vivid1vivid1 Posts: 24
    Check the fuse. You can look up the location in the manual. that would be a 30 cent fix.
  • The back of the driver's seat fell off. It looks like there were some type of clips on the top of the panel that are broken. How can I either get replacement clips or otherwise fix this without taking it to a dealership?

  • huntzingerhuntzinger Posts: 350
    Just wanted to pass this one along. This was on a 2002 C230K (Coupe), but probably has broader application.

    The story starts with a problem from a couple of months ago, where I had a parking brake shoe stick and thus, drag and burn out the pad, so I had the car in for replacement parking brakes.

    After said servicing, the parking brake seemed very "tight": there was zero freeplay in the parking brake pedal, and it started to engage the parking brakes very early in its stroke and I thought I could hear a not-fully-released pad dragging (argh!).

    So naturally, I had the mechanic "loosen up" the cable on my next visit. Afterwords, everything was perfect for around a month, then one day, the parking brake pedal went to the floor and it was not holding - - it felt like a broken cable.

    The mechanic re-serviced it for free, but the problem recurred a week later, so I finally took a look at it myself, based on the mechanic's previous description of how easy the fix was (ie, why he did it for free).

    The design:

    The parking brake cable system is a single cable from the driver back to a point that's in the middle of the car, under the back seat (and above the drive axle).

    At this point, the single cable from up front effectively "splits" into two cables (one for each rear wheel). This is not a cable splice, but instead is an articulated hinged lever arrangement ... I should have take a photograph :-) To gain access, there's an access panel the size of a dessert plate in the middle of the back seat under the cushions... no need to go under the car or use a lift.

    Key design attributes:

    #1: there's an adjustment nut here with which you can alter the overall cable length for slack, etc.

    #2: the two rear cables are merely "hooked" into a floater bar that's on this hinged lever arrangement, so if you make the adjustment too loose, one of the cables can move over and pop out (mine was passenger's side), which then makes it feel like you've broken the parking brake cable.

    The fix:

    (a) remove the back seat and gain access through the top hatch.

    (b) find this 'hinged lever' cable arrangement and remove the nut all the way off the bolt.

    (c) Go to your junk bin and find a big old washer (or two) that's around a 1" outside diameter that will fit over the bolt shaft.

    (d) Put one or two of these washers on, then put the bolt back on and adjust the tension however you like.


    Having a washer on the bolt shaft extends it out (like a flange) to block the "open" end of the slots where the rear cables hook in. Thus blocked, the rear cables can't move over to the end of the slot where they could fall out.

  • dho1dho1 Posts: 1
    I am considering to buy a used 2004 C240 4Matic wagon. 41000KM. This car does not have much warranty time left. Can anyone tell me how reliable is this car? The body looks like new. Very clean car. I test drove it and it has a lot of power after pick up. perform well at corner and brake. This car seems has been taken care quite well. Very clean engine. Asking price is CND$23000.00 in Toronto/Canada. Seems no any damage. Does it sound like reasonable price?

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