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Kia Sedona problems

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  • times2times2 Posts: 45
    I guess I'm suprised by that, because I've never gotten more than 15.5 to 16 gallons in there, and that was with the light on. Maybe there is a 3 gallon reserve, but that sounds like a lot.
  • itaricansitaricans Posts: 2
    ok. i just took my 02 sedona to the dealer, had the check engine light looked at, and it turned out it was a defective gas cap. lol. i saved about $400. but, while i was driving home, the the air bag light went on. it was fine before, so i called the dealer and told them about it, and the guy told me, "you have to bring it in, because it`s a different circuit and we have to look at it". it went out for a while and then it came back on, i`m afraid that if i take back to the dealer, they`re going to fix the light and screw something else. any one has any ideas about this? thanks louie. :(
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    the SRS (Safety Restraint System) is independant of the Engine Monitoring. The light there means it failed some check and one or more of your bags are likely not to deploy in an accident. You must bring it back in.

    I believe the SRS system has it's own codes, so maybe they can pull it.

    perhaps you have a problem with your "clock spring", a device in the steering wheel that maintains continuity between all steering wheel mounted controls (radio, cruise, horn) and airbag to the car's wiring harness for those circuits as you turn your wheel from one extent to the other.

    then again, it could be a bad bag, or wiring to say the passenger bag. it's hard to say what's wrong.
  • likellehlikelleh Posts: 35
    Hi Itaricians, My airbag light was doing the same thing. Turned out to be a circuit board in the passenger seat belt clip that was shot. It was replaced under warranty and I have had no more problems with it.
  • navyairnavyair Posts: 202
    There is nothing wrong with your van. It is working as designed.

    The gas pump auto shut off didn't work. That is why most pumps have stickers that say "do not top off tanks".

    If there was no overflow hole, the gas would pool in the compartment surrounding the fill neck of your gas tank. Nothing like driving around with a pint or quart of fuel sloshing around...talk about a fire hazard! So, the gas drains down to the ground and you drive off.

    (You aren't leaving your van running or talking on the cell phone are you? Both are BIG no-no's due to ignition source and static electricity). Likewise, getting in/out of vehicle can cause a static discharge.

    The other thing that can happen when the auto shut off doesn't work is that it can rapidly splash out of the fill pipe and soak you. So, if you are trying to top off the tank (remember that sticker?) don't stand directly in front of the fill pipe. Stand one side or the other.
  • ne03sedonane03sedona Posts: 15
    I somehow think there is a puzzle piece missing here. I can't justify a 'pump shut off' feature not working. It's the gas pumps error? why then was the van lurching and losing power? I myself 'overfill' the tank in my 03 every week, never a leak. from the first pump 'click off' I can get at least another full gallon into her. I would like more info, such as did the lurching go away after you idled some of the gas away? did you have it looked at afterwards? did engine light come on at all while lurching? Does the gas cap go 'PSSSS' when you open it? When you say 'alot of gas' on the ground, can you estimate the amount better?
    There cannot be a direct to air vent hole in the tank or lines, you would slosh gas out around every conrner! There is a tank venting for vapors but thats not under the middle door either. Gas is not supposed to come out of a sealed, pressurized system. I would have to guess a 'breach' in the fuel line to cause two symptoms like that. Not a broken line either as that would be very serious, and the van would stall due to no gas. Yours kept running. The fuel injection system, being subject to high pressure would be very suseptible to a pressure loss, even a pinhole, or a crack in the line. My biggest concern is that I recently had the rear coolant lines replaced due to a corrosion breach and subsequent leak. Whats to say this doesnt happen to other lines IE fuel or brake lines! Mine was not dangerous (except to the engine itself), those two are possibly fire or crash.
    Also on a similar note, we had a 2000 Sportage that we had to have the plate replaced on top of the gas tank. The one with the hose cluster and the sensor for empty-full. Still didnt fix the gas smell, finally they had to replace the entire tank there was SO much rust and corrosion the new plate would not seat and seal. This was in 2003, ONLY 3 years old. Your 04 is at least 2.5 years old....?
    If you can, share the 'afterwards' details.
  • Well it finally happened! I was driving along just as happy as you could be when then suddenly all of the gauges started going crazy and most of the dash lights went on...gas gauge went to empty and back up again, radio cut off and back on...and then the VAN DIED!!! It would not restart.
    As luck would have it I was only a block away from home!!! (I was at Hershey park last weekend which is about 95 miles away from me...glad it did not happen then!!!)
    Anyway...I thought that the OEM battery had gone bad. I got my son to jump me and I drove it home.

    I went out and bought a new battery and installed it. The old one was past the 3 year mark...so it was not eligible for the free replacement. The van was fine for about 1/2 hour...and then the battery light and brake light went on :mad:

    I put a volt meter across the battery terminals and, sure enough, the alternator was not working!!! :cry:
    I should have thought of that first...but I had forgotten about the alternator issue with the '02 and some '03 Sedonas. It did not dawn on me that the alternator would go bad this soon (not quite 30K on vehicle). I took it in and the dealer replaced the alternator and belt under warranty...the van is running great once again! They also put a heat shroud around my battery and reprogrammed the vehicle.

    This also has helped my AM radio reception immensely! I had always had a problem with most AM stations and noise (had taken it in for this before and was told...NORMAL)! The electrical interference from the old alternator was causing this problem after all. :D
  • Here's the rest of the story from that day. I would say about 3 gallons of gas was on the ground. When I looked under the van, there was a "waterfall" approx one foot across. The nozzle was working fine. It kept clicking off and I was slowly adding gas until it clicked off again. Topping off the tank like everyone does but we know we shouldn't. (Not sure why but I know most manuals say not to.) On my '92 Bonneville, I could get at least 2 more gals and on my '96 Caravan, I could get at least one more in it. I've been doing this for years and the only thing that ever happened was the gas backs out by the nozzle when it is totally full. That did not happen in this situation.
    I did pull off to the side of the road (I wasn't getting anywhere fast anyway and I did not want to get stuck in the middle of the highway.) to let the van run to burn off some of the gas. I figured that was the problem since it was running just fine before the fill-up. I sat there for approx 10 minutes and then tried the highway when it was totally clear and there was just a little hesitating for about a mile or so. Hasn't had a problem since.
    I was thinking of taking it to the dealer to have them look at it but haven't as of yet.
    This van gives you a real bang for your buck and has been great and a real pleasure to drive, I love it.
    I just am curious as to why this happened and if it is serious.
    Thanks for your responses. :) ">
  • jeffh5jeffh5 Posts: 1
    Has anyone seen anything like this? The Charging System Warning and Parking Brake light happen to be next to each other on the display console. They are turning off and on at the same time. I checked the voltage across the battery while the engine ran: 13.3 Volts, and the brake fluid level: a bit higher than max. So those both look good. There is no possible way that these two unrelated system errors could be happening in lock-step, so I'm thinking an intermittant ground in the display console is the most likely culprit.
  • hatekiahatekia Posts: 3
    I also have the same problem with my 05. The rotors have been replaced three times.I am taking KIA to court in Aug of this year,if they don't buy back my van. Front tires have been replaced as well due to tire wornen down to the metal. Pulley replaced as well.
  • hatekiahatekia Posts: 3
    If anyone has problems with rotors and breaks, please e-mail. The more info; the better my chances in court.
  • hatekiahatekia Posts: 3
    I also have the same problem with my 05. The rotors have been replaced three times.I am taking KIA to court in Aug of this year,if they don't buy back my van. Front tires have been replaced as well due to tire wornen down to the metal. Pulley replaced as well. I have a law suit and I am taking KIA to court!!! Lemon law
  • marriedmanmarriedman Posts: 16
    Jeffh5: That was the same error I was getting when the alternator went out on my 02 Sedona. Your reading of 13.3v at the battery with the car running sounds low. Voltage should be 13.8v - 14.2v. Do the same test, but cut on the lights (high beams), AC, radio. You want to put a good load under the alternator. The alternator should produce a battery voltage of at least 14.2v.

    Your local parts store should be able to test the alternator in the car in a matter of minutes. Depending on your mileage it could be under warrenty. There was a service bullentin on this a couple years ago. See post #1251 for the TSB number, and may help with the Service Manager doing the work under warrenty.

    Good Luck :)
  • bpgungirlbpgungirl Posts: 15
    I also am in the process of taking Kia to court. I have a 2005 Sedona with about 6,000 miles. in the first 4 months of owning this "vehicle" it was in the shop 56 or 7 times for extra loud air conditioner, breaks and handeling, rearend noise and the over head computer system that was replaced and still doesn't work.
    I stopped bringing it in for repair because the service manager told me NOT to return the car there for any of the above repairs because "everything is normal" I have since brought it to another dealership whice was just as bad,
    Anyway, in March my attorny sent a certified mechanic out to inspect my vehicle. He couldn't believe that all these problems happened within the first 3,000 miles saying in his report that this vehicle has the characteristics of a vehicle that would have 100,000 miles. The cars are a complete joke in my book. I also have kept every gas receipt and am getting on average 12.5 miles/gal.
  • bpgungirlbpgungirl Posts: 15
    Forgot to tell you that I amd handicapped and rely on this car for all my transportation needs.
    Sometimes after a 10 mile drive thr front rims are so hot you can barely touch them with your hand,other times they are as cool as can be. I have a large groning noise from the front breaks every time I step on them (again, the dealership says this is all normal) and at speeds of 50MPH a step hard on the breaks for a quick stop and the vehicle veers way off to the right. Again, according to the dealership, after test driving the vehicle (a grand total of 1.5 miles after I had dropped it off) they say the symptom could not be duplicated so everything is normal.Kia has to be held accountable for this.
  • Hey, I thought I let you know we have 02 sedona and we had the tale gate painted 6 times! :lemon: Finally we hired a lemon law lawyer and sued them (and won) for a breach of contract. We had to many miles on buy the time we had enough to make them buy it back. The first time we had it painted was @ 12000 miles. It went from bad to worst! We have soooo many problems, everything from the mounts on the power seat breaking to ac compressor going out twice to a whooooooping noise about every ten minutes to trans being replace to a wheel bearing going out! I'm kidding there is more alot more. It spent so much time in the shop that we were able to sue them for the breach of contract. All this happened before 100,000 mile mark and most of it before 60,000. The alternator is out again! Although I must say that It has about 130,000 on it now and with all the warranty work I think they finally have it close! They did stand behind the warranty and give me rental roller skate with a motor while they threw parts at it. When they were standing behind the warranty it felt more like they standing behind me! :surprise:
  • So what did the whoooooooping noise turn out to be? Mine is doing the same thing. I can feel the vibration through the van.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    wasn't whooping in the vehicle associated with some rear A/C line expansion valve or something like that?

    search the forum.
  • 31andgo31andgo Posts: 1
    I noticed excessive thumping/rattling on our 05 Kia sedona right front strut area. (Malfunctioning suspension component sound). I inspected the strut cartridge and there was fluid running down all around the strut cartridge area. I then proceeded to notify the dealer about the strut and have an appointment to get it repaired.
  • juicedupjuicedup Posts: 7
    My 2003 Kia Sedona ex has the same problem with the a/c noises. I get this loud wooooping noise sometimes from the rear of the van and you feel vibrations when the a/c is on. this has been happening since the van was new. I took it to the dealer once for it and they said the vibration was normal and could not produce the woooping noise. Did anyone ever find out what the problem is? Other than that the van is fantastic. I now have 50k on it and it has never broken down or given me any type of problem what so ever besides these annoying a/c noises.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    read messages 445 through 455 on this topic.
  • itaricansitaricans Posts: 2
    hello everyone.
    does anyone knows how to reset the air bag light? mine came on, went out, and then came back on again, and stayed on. someone told me that it has to be reset. by the way, where can i get kia how to books? are there any out there?
    thanks. louie. :)
  • smulveysmulvey Posts: 139
    I have a 2002 and it is fine with no goofy rust like you describe. I would say you got a bad paint job. I would suggest you trade it in on a new 2006 and take advantage of the various owner discounts. Then you will have the benefits of the new model and won't always resent the paint defect. Mine has 75K on it and is running well. Much better than my Chrysler.I bet you willnot be out of pocket more than $ 1,000 and you can be sure repainting your car in 4 years will cost way more than that.
  • smulveysmulvey Posts: 139
    Hi- its me again.
    I just had to replace my airconditioning condensor and i had both good and bad news to report. First the bad news.
    If you have a FAT BELLY and you push your FAT BELLY against the front of your car while you are working on it you will push the HORNS into the Condensor and the metal STUD on the rear of the horn will punch a very nice HOLE in your air conditioning condensor tubes !!!

    I was told my air conditioning was not working since it had a HOLE somewhere and I found the hole ! Ha HA. I wonder why the mechanic could not find the hole ?

    The Kia Factory is charging a enormous price for the replacement part of $ 471 !. My parts advisor helped me find one on the internet for $ 120 !!

    When it arrived , guess what? I was made at the Kia supplier and had the Kia supplier Kia Part number etc,etc
    so it was IDENTICAL to the OEM part. It WAS and OEM part.
    We installed it and it fit and worked perfectly. We charged up the Freom and I will start using it.

    I bought it from karen.segars@brightauto.com and they were great to deal with.

    It was actually IMPORTED by a WHOLESALER who then Sold it to Karen! So Karen made money and the wholesaler made money at $ 120.

    This kind of makes you wonder HOW MUCH MONEY DOES PETER BUTTERFIELD NEED TO MAKE on spare parts until he feels he has gottne his " Pound of Flesh " from his customers. PEte Butterfield is the President of Kia Motors USA the Kia distributor for the Kias we are buying here in America.

    Hey- if you get TIRED of how much Peter is overc\arging us, you can buy Kias in Canada for a few thousand dollars less since the Kia Canada does not mark the cars up as much as Peter does.

    I do not know Peter personally, but I can assume he does not read this forum since the customers who have the really bad problems never seem to hear from Peter about fixing the root cause of their problems.

    Anyway - I got AC again !
    And my dealer did my AC recharge for FREE !! as he
    agreed they problably punched the hole in it.

    By the way- Tips to the WISE - Move the darn horns higher.
    I took the bolts out and rotated my horns UP so the are in front of the solid metal Radiator support and not hanging down waiting for a BELLY to push thme into my radiators.

    I am back to enjoying my smooth running 2002 Kia V6.
  • Smulvey,
    Thanks for the tip on brightauto.com...that may come in handy in the future. As to the markup on parts... dealerships, as you know, do not make much money these days on the new car sale (unless they snag an uninformed customer)...so, unfortunately for us, they try to make up for it on the service and parts areas. :cry:
  • dean5dean5 Posts: 5
    Ours made the same noise. The dealer ended up replacing the AC compressor and the noise went away.
  • tomjc1tomjc1 Posts: 1
    As soon as my car hit 80K miles I've had a number of problems that have been very expensive.

    1. Had to replace the fuel sensor in March $200
    2. Replace the alternator last week - $$850
    3. Replaced the cat conv - $200 @ meineke

    Here's the next problem that I need some help on:

    The check engine light came on 1 week after the alternator was replaced. I took it to the KIA dealer and they said it was the pre cat $1,100 estimate to repair (mostly part, i've check around and no one has this part). I'm a little paranoid to replace it because of 3 reasons: 1) the service manager was going to charge me $1000 for the alternator when he gave me an estimate of $850, so I argued with him for 20 mintues and he finally he adjusted the bill after saying he discovered that their estimation system was in error - I'm hoping the precat is not a made up problem in retaliation. 2) I was going to shop the car for trade after I got the alternator fixed, so I cleaned the car including the engine. I asked the service manager if I could have done damage to the engine by washing it and he said no. 3) I don't won't to get into a "process of elimination" to find the problem of the check engine light and have to put more thant $1,000in 02 KIA - the service manager said that he gets very specific codes and this one points to the pre-cat.

    The car occassionally hesitates when applying the gas, but drives OK for the most part.

    Does anyone have any reassuring words or can they direct me to a cheaper resolution.

    Thanks and I appreciate this forum. :sick:
  • smulveysmulvey Posts: 139
    For the kind of money you are tossing around go the extra $ 150 and go to Sears and buy a Scan Tool with the software to dump data to your PC. There are a number of good ones availble at the auto parts stores etc. These will give you the trouble code numbers that relate back to the problem in the engine. Also - On the alternator job- there was a retro fit kit for that and the dealer should have contacted you BEFORE the 60 K miles was up ! I got mine done at 58K when I went to a new kia dealer and he went over the upgrade with me. Now my Alternator works much better. They increased the amps, increased the pulley speed and increased the idle speed.

    As far as this " pre Cat" I do not know what they are talking about. But I would see about researching this on the internet , I found my A/C part for $ 120 and the dealer price was $ 578. I am presently trying to find the Front Shock Strut on a bargain price so I can rebuild the front end to get back the New Car ride. The biggest concern I have now about the Kia is the 3rd party parts and repair is not very good yet. BUT - I think in your case- do the scan tool and solve just that problem, then sell the car. Right now it is probably worth $ 6-8 K on a trade and you could get a year old Sedona for $ 10K with about 20 K miles on it. Then you could get out of the repair trap for less money than the repair bills. I'll bet you can reset the engine light and then trade the car in that day!

    The Kia dealers and other large dealers are getting very cheap prices from the daily rental companies that are selling Sedonas that are a year old.

    I am pretty happy with my car. But I learned a heck of alot more about the car than I ever planned to! Due to the very very poor dealer repair staffs. I have been to 3 dealers so far.
  • boxwrenchboxwrench Posts: 55
    How about posting your findings for the strut search. I have an 04 EX and the dealer Daytona KIA has not fixed the front-end noise to my satisfaction. It still makes ths suttle KLUNK noise when going over small bumps. I would be interested in replacing my struts, preferably with aftermarket ones. The van only has 23K on it!

    I have to say that my EX has been relatively Trouble-free since new. No brake problems, or AC problems, or Alternator problems,-- just that persistant Klunking over small bumps that wasn't there when new. The last time to the dealer, they repositioned the strut in the tower, added washers, and then charged me for realignment because they said the tires were wearing uneven on the front. Still does It!!

    On a recent trip to Cincinnati, Ohio, I had the oil changed at Castrucci Kia ($24.95) after a $5 off coupon, and asked them about the front-end noise problem. After all there are many more pot-holes in Ohio than we have here in Florida. Their answer was "Yes, we know about the problem, but there is nothing that can be done about it". It seems that Kia would research this problem, and offer a solution.

    Also, on the emissions problem --- I thought every Mfgr. had to warrant their emission parts for 100K? Isn't the Cat Converter part of that system?

    Boxwrench
  • smulveysmulvey Posts: 139
    I have the entire Kia Parts listing as a text file.
    But here are the most significant ones for Kia
    the Front Shock is $ 188

    The Shock rests on what they call a "Strut Mount"
    which is the rubber lump you see on the Fender when you have the hood open with the bolts by it.

    I think we need the Strut Mounts for sure.
    The Driver side Shock feels like it is gone also.

    Kia Part 0K52Y 34380 RUBBER-STRUT MTG,FRT QTY-2 $61.85

    Maybe we should all buy Moog Brand so they get a
    reward for setting up the Kia Parts!
    Maybe the Moog will last longer too!

    Moog Part # MOK90222 Strut Mount $ 68.00

    These may help with steering feel.
    Tie Rod Ends- Left & Right Side, Outer.
    Moog MOES3618 Tie Rod End $18.39 each
    Moog MOES3621 $18.39 each

    I am getting close to doing this repair.
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