Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Kia Sedona problems



  • navyairnavyair Posts: 202
    It is in your owner's manual. If the car has been locked and you use the key fob unlock feature to open the hatch first, it relocks all the side doors (and hatch) within 20 seconds or so. This is for people who load stuff in the back and go back shopping. It keeps you from forgetting to relock the car (or a kid from doing it when he gets his ball glove from the rear hatch at the ball park) for safety reasons...keeps the car secure and also your purchases. Opening one side door slightly will prevent this from happening if you intend to drive away. We've just basically figured out that we open a slider or if multiple passengers, one gets in the car, one loads the groceries. Other option is to use the key to unlock the door.

    Agree with you that it isn't a favorite feature of many people. Most of us would rather have auto locking doors when the car reached 10-15 mph, or 30 sec after drive was engaged.
  • Hi All,

    Haven't read the forums in a while, and had to catch up on all the chatter. Most of it isn't good! We just completed a trip from Daytona to Cincinnati, and the mileage on our 2003 EX was not the best. Just 2 of us and our luggage on board. I drove at the speed limit the entire way. (no more than 70 mph) I've come to learn the so-called trip computer is worthless. Who cares about your AVG MPH!! It's always going to vary anyway. Why didn't they have MPG average?? Like almost all other onboard computers. And I am dissapointed with the DISTANCE TO EMPTY feature also, because on 2 occasions after filling up with fuel, it never reset itself, and if I believed the computer, I would run out in 100 miles!! Couldn't find anything in the owners manual on how this thing works, or what resets it. I'm guessing it's the gas guage, or some other secondary means. It would have been better to have the driver manually reset it, such as your trip Odometer.

    All that said (I never believe those things anyway) in my own calculations of miles driven divided by gallons used (at the next fill-up) I managed to get 21.5 MPG! This is pretty accurate, as I try and fill the tank up to the neck every time so it is reasonally accurate. Also it was all Freeway driving with 2 pit stops. Not even close to the EPA estimate for Hwy driving. Couple that with the 14.5 MPG around town average, and the Sedona MPG claim of 18 and 26 is a BOLD-FACE-LIE!!
    Maybe manufacturers have changed their claims, I remember when you could expect better that EPA MPG especially after break-in and Hwy travel! I consider 14,000 miles more than enough for break-in. Besides I've had Company-owned new cars, and never went through a break-in, just started driving them for business, and hardly any improved on the MPG after the first 500 miles. How long do they expect it to take for a set of rings to seat?

    Regarding some of the other stated problems, some I find hard to believe that the DEALER cannot find the problems. I realize there are good, bad, and some marginal service departments, but parts procurement should not be one of the problems. If it is, then it is a major KIA problem nationally. I had it happen to me at Speedway/Daytona KIA. weeks for a part to come in, and then they never called to say it's here, come on in and have it installed. Maybe it's because the parts are coming all the way from KOREA!! You would think Kia would have stocked enough parts to cover ANY parts problem. I know service departments usually stock the parts that routinely wear out, or fail pre-maturely, but Corporate HQ. should have everything else. What Gives??

    I've been happy with my KIA so far, but this forum is slowly changing my way of thinking. I was in the Field service business with Xerox for 32 years before retirement, and if I treated my customers/accounts (Major ones like GE and P&G, and others) like I see on this forum, I wouldn't have lasted 1 month as an Employee. I've been through premature parts failures, but the company geared up and met the problem quickly. KIA doesn't seem to have that philosophy. I hope that changes.

    Brake problems! I had my Kia dealer say I should have my rear brakes adjusted at the 7,500 mile service. I thought all rear drum brakes had self adjusters? The service mgr. said they don't!! I can't believe that. Brake noise is a way-of-life sometimes. As long as they work!!

    Steering, on the other hand is critical. Not sure what an intermiedate shaft has to do with loss of steering, but that is a safety issue. I can't see how an electrical problem can affect steering, unless it stall's the engine and loss of Power Steering happens.

    So many problems, So little Time. It's the MPG that bugs me!!

    IMHO Boxwrench.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    Regarding fuel economy: I think you are mistaken about the 18 city / 26 highway MPG EPA ratings for your Sedona. The 2002 Sedona was rated 15 / 20 and off the top of my head, I think the 2003 was upgraded to 16 / 21. My guess is that Kia realized owners were actually doing better than 15 / 20 on average, and somehow convinced the EPA to boost the figures. Or something like that.

    21.5 mpg on a highway tankful seems right in line with my expectations for Sedona. You might get different readings if you track it for multiple tanks. Wouldn't surprise me to see you do better than 21.5 mpg if driving only 70 mph and with cruise on most of the time and on relatively flat ground.

    The EPA site does have historical fuel economy ratings for all U.S.-market vehicles, but I don't recall the URL off the top of my head. I'm sure somebody will jump in and provide it.
  • EPA Fuel Economy for 2003 LX/EX is 15/20 (as per the 2003 brocure)
  • I am getting some musty air blowing out of my a/c vents prior to turning on the compressor. This goes away after turning on the a/c for a few minutes. I am thinking that either mold has gotten to the a/c unit...or leak detector chemical (previously inatalled by dealer last season) is leaking out of the unit. Has anyone had this happen to them? If it turns out to be this going to be a warranty issue or not?
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    thanks for clarifying. it must be the 2004 that had the slight increase in EPA figures to 16 / 21.
  • It is mold. Same thing happened on our '04 Sedona this summer. The A/C system on the Sedona must be susceptible to this type of thing since I've never had it happen on any other vehicle I've owned and a couple of people reported it here.

    I took my van to the dealer where they proceeded to 'clean the A/C Ducting' at no charge. When we first got the van back it was better, but the smell was still there. Within a day or two it was as bad as it was before. I don't have any faith Kia can fix this so whether they charge or not is a moot point. Since this will only be a problem when the A/C is in use and it is humid, I expect the problem to go away as fall approaches, but I'm certain it will be back next summer if we still have the van. Based on where gas prices are headed I don't think we'll be able to drive it much anyway.
  • I started having a horn problem with my 2005 Sedona yesterday. The alarm series of beeps would begin and would not stop until we pressed the lock button on the remote. It would start again exactly 60 minutes later. This continued through the day and then did not do it again after the van was driven. However, it started again this evening, the last time it has happened was at 11:18PM. I have moved it into the garage so my neighbors don't get their Smith & Wesson's and shoot me. Any suggestions about what is causing this would be appreciated.
  • I'm having a similar problem. What did you find out? The check engine light will come on in my 05 Sedona sporadically when the tank hits 3/4 full. It has stayed on for one or two full tanks, and go off again at about the 3/4 full point. I have just figured I got some gas that was burning a bit dirty causing an emission sensor to trigger. Any info would be appreciated.
  • i use SYNTHETIC OIL in our sorento 10w-30 as the manuel recomends, but other vehicle mfg's recomend 5w-30 one of the reasons is for better fuel economy

    from the research i have done the same weight in dino oil vs. syn oil will give the same results, thus no benifit in milage but there are other benifits to use syn oil

    the fact that the sorento owners manuel (i think the sedona manuel is the same) for the use of 5w-30 is not recomended for temps over appx 40 degrees f

    i think this is out of date or maybe in error due to the lack of knowledge by the people that wrote the manuel who may not understand motor oil ratings or maybe another consideration i am not aware of

    there would be a increase in milage if 5w-30 is used instead of 10w-30, but how much ?

    i think a modification of driving habits would help more

    i.e. my wife gets 2 to 3 mpg less than i do driving the same vehicles

    to learn more about motor oils

    go to; this is a big document and is very comprehensive

    the TORNADO is a complete RIP OFF don't waste your money
  • :sick: My first problem with my van was whenever I am driving between the speed of 100 to 140 kph, I felt vibration on my steering wheel everytime I apply brake gradually to lessen my speed. My dealer fixed the problem by changing my front rotors at 6000km. now my van has 10500 km and I have another issue, my rear blower wont shut off everytime I switched my ignition in an ON position, my dealer said it was an electrical problem so I have to leave my van with them for one day to fix it.

    I am getting upset with my van, for less than a year using it I got three issues already and third one is my door open warning light is always blinking eventhough the doors were properly locked. Right now, I have not yet went to my dealer to fix the third problem, Is there anyone who have the same problems as mine? need your advise and help.
  • I went to that web site and, although it is informative, it is not complete. It left me hanging.

    I'm looking for the bottom line myself. I have been digging around for gas and oil info with some scientific test data on the Repair forum, but so far I see allot of personal opinions and not much else. Been to "" and am fairly convinced Chevron is the way to go with gas, but I'm still looking for some test results with mileage results. Techron sounds great, and I plan on using it, but I still wonder why some brands of gas go further than others. My first experience with this was in my 95 Caravan after a fill-up in Saddle River, NJ. One tank of Hess 87 got me well into South Carolina! I was blown away!!! But there are other concerns like deposits. Not all additives work well. So where can I get some solid test data on gas?

    On the oil side, as I'm due for my first 2000 mile oil change soon, I'm leaning towards AMSOIL ASL 5W-30. They provide full specs and test data that shows how they rank compared to the other contenders. It looks like they totally blow away the competition! Oil filters too? I'm still investigating.

    Air filters? Very important as well. Still looking.

    This is not the right topic for this forum, so I'll stop now and post on the other forum, but I am really looking to take care of my Sedona and get the best mileage I can. I treated my last tank with Techron Concentrate because I was using Hess exclusively. This is not a "Top Tier" gas. But it is funny how I get much better mileage with Hess over Shell (a Top Tier ranked gas). There must be more to this story. I just don't know where to look...yet. Any clues?

    Phil ~

    PS...last tank was 19 MPG with 20% city and 80% hiway. I expected it to go up and not down (pre Techron treatment).
  • Perhaps a sludge issue? Maybe there's a blockage with old oil/sludge near the oil pump. I've heard of such problems on Toyota V6 and VW 1.8 Turbo engines.
  • hey - i've just reviewed the many messages on this wonderful exchange but i have mixed emotions... relieved i'm not alone in my problems, worried about the many more i may face. i bought my 2005 on july31. i, too, immediately noticed the turn signal oddity described in post #855, but thought i was just being anal. 2 weeks later i had to have the break pads and rotors replaced. 2 weeks after that the side door latch quit functioning - couldn't get out from inside - had it fixed. now, just this very day, my engine began making a strange "puttering" noise, almost like a go cart. that's what prompted me to hit the web and see if i am alone. apparently not. has anyone else had this problem? i guess i'll make another trip to the shop, which unfortunately is located about 45 minutes away.
    the funny thing is...we traded our grand caravan in for the sedona, trying to avoid the impending transmission problems. the sedona warranty was so attractive, we thought the product must be solid. well, isn't that funny. but i do have one good thing - the service department has been accomodating so far. :confuse:
  • I also have an odd noise that seems to come from the passenger rear of my 2003 KIA Sedona. On my van it creates two types of noises. 1st it sounds like a crotch rocket motorcycle passing on the passenger side the a few seconds later it sounds sort of like a kids kazoo or one of those slide flutes. As you stated, no loss of performance but happens most often during air conditioner use.

  • Brand new (less than 150 miles!) 05 Sedona we had our "check engine light" come on, too. Dealer service told us it was an emission control fuel system pressure sensor and claimed at first it was from a loose gas cap, then said it was a faulty sensor and supposedly replaced the sensor after having the van two days waiting for parts. BUT - he told my wife it was only a $10 part, but they still didn't have any. (Funny, when I checked with some garages and parts stores, the same type of sensor for other cars costs around $200!) Now, curiously, our tank was at about the 3/4 mark when that happened. Service writer also told us it might be caused by "topping up" the tank after the pump shut off. The only fill done on this car was the original full tank we got from the dealer. It would seem such a defect in part/programming would show up immediately at the pump if this was the cause? I ALWAYS top up a tank to at least round-off the charge, and I've done this with every vehicle I own and every vehicle I rent for business. I have NEVER seen this happen on another emisiion-controlled vehicle! It would be a stupid design fault and all the grounds in the world to use the "Lemon Law" if it continues.
  • Bluedevils

    I was wrong on 2 counts! My Sedona EX is a 2004, and the window sticker in hand says 16 city and 22 hwy. The estimated annual fuel cost is $1168.00 I wonder what price per gallon that is -- surely not $2.99 a gallon!!

  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    yep - surely not $2.99 per gallon!
  • OEM Hankooks on our new 05 Sedona LX. Normal loads (family of four) and normal speeds (70-or-so highway). No trailer. Any suggestions on tire pressures or just go with the recommended inflation in the manual and on the tag? Anyone having any luck with better mileage with different pressures? I mean - within safe inflation range for the load and speed of course.

    These OEM 215/70's just look SMALL for this heavy a vehicle. I like the look of the tread design though. Anyone have experience with these Hankooks in bad weather - especially snow? How about hydroplaning?

    Just got this car back from the emission control fuel pressure sensor replacement at 150 miles. Seems okay for now but we're still on the full tank delivered with the car fresh from service. It'll be interesting to see what happens at 3/4 gauge or fill-up. I'll report what does happen, or doesn't.

    Sure would love to see "Kiatech" back on here - that person sure knew the right stuff!
This discussion has been closed.