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Pontiac GTO

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  • rcc442rcc442 Posts: 56
    Anyone know of any advantages to a 2006 over a 2005 GTO? I know the tail light background color is different, and I've read on the GM Media website that there are illuminated radio controls on the steering wheel for 2006, but what I'm really interested in is whether any "fixes" to the engine control, the bushings, or other components are incorporated in the 2006's. (You know how "they" say never to buy the first year model; wait until the second year, when the "bugs" are fixed. Well, 2005 was the first year of the LS2 in the GTO, so I'm wondering whether there were any "bugs" that are fixed in the 2006.)

    At this point, the 2006 appears to be only $1000 more than the 2005, considering MSRP's and customer rebates; if there are fixes incorporated in the 2006, then that plus the depreciation difference might make it worthwhile to buy a 2006, rather than a 2005...
  • Just purchased an 06-6M . Love it and a blast to drive. Only comment is the stiff transmission shift especially reverse. I hope this improves over time as I put more miles on the car. Any comments?
  • b4zb4z Posts: 3,372
    image

    Only took me 6 years of participating in Townhall to figure out to post an actual picture not a link. LOL.

    Here is my '04 with spoiler delete. 18" Ronal wheels with KDW tires and SAP hood.
  • b4zb4z Posts: 3,372
    Mine was horrible when I first got it. Especially because it was Winter. It didn't want to go in reverse unless I bumped it a few inches forward in 1st, and then into reverse. I have 17K on mine now and rarely have probs even in cold weather.
  • I am most probably going to get an 05 GTO in the Spring. I am trying to decide between the 6-speed and auto transmission. I currently have a 5-speed stick Jaguar X-Type and shifting gears is fun, but I would consider a good automatic instead since traffic around me is usually pretty brutal. So how is GTO's auto compared to 6-speed. I read that the clutch is somewhat stiff and the gear shifter has long throws. The auto, on the other hand, causes higher fuel consumption, although most seem to like the way it is matched to the LS2.
  • white6white6 Posts: 588
    Love it! Those wheels look great! I was very tempted at one point by the 18-inch VZ Monaro wheels. Decided to stay with BMW 17's; had concerns about ride quality with 18's (the extra cost was a factor as well). What is the ride quality like compared to the OEM 17's? I went with Avon 550's and have been very happy with them; much improved noise and ride comfort. I'm sure I'm giving up that last 10% of at-the-limit handling, but I don't plan on tracking it and spend 90% of my time driving down rural highways/interstates, so that's what I wanted the car to do best.
  • b4zb4z Posts: 3,372
    Thanks for the compliment.
    I really agonized over the decision to go with 18s.
    Ride quality was of number 1 importance.
    I talked with some guys and they said that the kind of tire you go with will affect the ride quality too.
    I see only the slightest difference when I go overr bumps.
    The tires aren't any louder than stock(because the alignment was off the stockers had a wear pattern).

    There is a big improvement in cornering and traction.
    Where it used to spin the tires on acceleration it just squats and goes. Turn in is quicker as is steady state cornering. Wet traction is better also. The tires have a very aggressive tread patern.
    Hard to believe they are from the same KD line that our KDWS were. They are wearing better than the KDWS also.

    I haqve $2130 in the wheel/tire package from ronalusa.com.
    They also road force balanced them and I spent $30 mounting them here in Charleston.

    The Ronals are easily the highest quality wheel I have ever owned. Everything about them is flawless.
    The sterling silver finish is a lighter silver and it really pops when the sun hits them.
  • I have an '04 4A. (I drove 5 speeds for 15 years but got the 4A because my size 13 foot would not fit between the clutch and the kick wall.) Anyway, I am currently considering more power and would like to have a Supercharger installed on my original LS1 engine. I checked with the GM dealer and they do not make one for that engine. I am considering having it done somewhere else. Does anyone know if any additional work would have to be done on the drive train, transmission etc. to make that modification. I don't have the knowledge, desire or time to do it myself and would like to go somewhere and not get ripped off. Any info or recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!
  • b4zb4z Posts: 3,372
    There are many.
    Magnacharger.
    Vortech
    STS rear mount turbos.

    You could go to tbyrne.com
    There are tons of places that will install and tune it for you.
  • I found it a little stiff at first but now find the changes very smooth. Probably partly me getting used to it. I sometimes find it hard to get it straight into reverse and if I do I pop it into first and then immediately into reverse and this works well.
  • I was just in Australia. The Monaro is so popular there. I would see several a day and even saw one HSV (Holden Special Vehicle) GTO which shares the same 6.0L engine as the Pontiac GTO. This is interesting since the base Monaro costs A$60k (US$45k) and the HSV GTO A$78k (US$59k). We get a bargain here and it is made there!
  • I didn't have the time to scroll through thousands of posts, so forgive me for some of these questions. First off, congrats to all you owners. You own what I believe to be the best bargain on earth. I have no idea why I'd want a Corvette if I can get virtually the same performance in a GTO. Some questions. First off, I want the automatic just because I really don't want to shift (I am lazy and encounter traffic). How does the auto handle the torque of this engine? Are the downshifts fairly quick and smooth? I haven't test driven one yet, but I was wondering if the car is quiet on the highway. Lastly, will the dealer remove the juvenile spoiler before I take delivery? Are there big holes left after it is removed? TIA
  • white6white6 Posts: 588
    I have an A4 and when stock it was not the greatest. I had a semi-custom tune done with a Predator hand-held tuner and RWTD. They modified some parameters (quickened and firmed up the shifts, reduced torque management so it doesn't feel like you're going through the windshield on upshifts). They got it a little too firm at first, but dialed it back and got it perfect on the second try. Not as smooth and seamless as my last bimmer shiftronic tranny, but pretty good. I paid a little over $400 to have my trunk holes welded up and the trunk lid re-painted. Dealer will probably be higher. There are five holes to fill; four small ones and one big one (for the brake light harness to go through).
    My only real complaint at this point is an idle inconsistancy. When the outside air temperature is cold, my idle is fine. When air temps climb, my idle (in "D") deteriorates. When the temps are in the 90s, my car idles like a 30-year-old school bus; vibrates so bad that the dash buzzes. Pontiac says this is "normal." Using the "mode/set-start" procedure with the DIC, I have noticed that as temperatures rise, the battery voltage goes down. In cooler temps, stable 13.9-14.0 volts. In the 90s, voltage drops to 11.3-11.6 range. Still working on this one...
  • "My only real complaint at this point is an idle inconsistancy. When the outside air temperature is cold, my idle is fine. When air temps climb, my idle (in "D") deteriorates. When the temps are in the 90s, my car idles like a 30-year-old school bus; vibrates so bad that the dash buzzes."

    That's interesting white6...has anyone else noticed this idle and battery issue? Is it only in the automatic? I live in Arizona and "cool" temperatures are definitely not the norm, so I'm wondering if I'll see this issue (when I get my GTO that is). I already have a 14 year old Acura with a quarter million miles on it...so it rattles and squeaks enough and isn't exactly aesthetically pleasing - I don't really want to hear rattles in a new car. (But she keeps on runnin' though! Knock on wood) :sick:

    Oh, PS...GO STEELERS!
  • b4zb4z Posts: 3,372
    I drove 3 GTOs before I bought my '04 M6.
    The first one I drove was an A4 because I had just had a fall and twisted my left knee.
    The A4 felt kind of sluggish and would shift into 2nd at low speeds. It never seemed to be in the gear I wanted but there was so much power that I woud just dip into the throttle and it would go. If I gave it a little more throttle it would quickly downshift.
    If I had driven it a little more I would have gotten used to it and liked it.
    The other things i didn't like was that the ride was jiggly and the steering was Lexus light.
    I basically wrote the GTO off at that point and posted my
    test drive results in another GTO forum.

    They said 2 things 2 me that made me look at the car again.
    The tires were grossly overinflated for delivery. There was 55 lbs of air in them!
    With 35 lbs of air it totally changed the steering and the ride, both of which are quite nice now.
    Secondly, they told me to drive the 6 speed. I did and I bought it.
    You will not be disappointed with either the auto or the M6.
    My car with the M6 is actually pretty quiet at 80 mph.
    The autos will have slighty higher revs at cruise but I understand that they also beat the EPA hwy number.
    My M6 gets 25-26mpg at 75mph.

    I stongly believe that the GTO is the best performance bang for the buck available. It is more reffined than the Mustang, a better long distance cruiser, and has a very nice, high quality interior.
  • Thanks for the reply. My friend used to own a 2001 Corvette and it also exhibited what I consider a lumpy idle. I guess that is the inherrent nature of the beast. Not a big issue. Thanks for your reply!
  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    The car does have a bit of a shake at idle - it's the cam lope - but I think white6's problem is something different. Regardless, the minor shake at idle is normal.

    I have an A4 and don't have the idle or battery problems. The stock battery sucks - mine leaked from the day I took delivery/car went into storage last January (long story, I'm in Wisconsin, it's GTO #2) and I dropped the darn thing (of course it landed post-first and fractured). Bought an Optima Red Top ($80 through a friend of a friend) and haven't looked back...

    I did not care for the stock A4 shift patterns. I'm using the updated Predator performance tune and not only do I like the shift points much better, I get better than the EPA highway MPG ratings. Or maybe it's all of the Zaino on the car :-) Regardless, a good tune will do wonders for an A4...

    --Robert
  • I'll take that under advisement. :)
    Hard to believe they still charge for the GGT. A car that gets mid 20's on the highway should not have to pay a hefty fee for that privilege.
  • white6white6 Posts: 588
    I even had the service advisor pull a 04 A4 demo GTO around to the service bay to compare to my car at idle. He acknowledged a significant difference between my car and the demo, but couldn't offer a solution. GM says the car is "normal" and therefore wouldn't authorize any further warranty work. I have read about a Corvette owner that found an intelligent dealer service tech (that actually cared!) that was able to rid his car of this same problem by replacing the alternator. I suppose it could be a faulty voltage regulator that, as temps increase, starts breaking down. My symptoms seem to indicate this direction; unfortunately it would be up to me to attempt this at my expense. Not sure at this point I want to accept the financial responsibility for a defective product that should be repaired under warranty. This is one reason I never buy extended warranties. Another problem these cars have in common is the delicate front strut bar bushings. They are fluid filled and after one emergency stop will rupture and leak this fluid. I have photographic proof of this fact. The bushing then becomes a floppy, hollow rubber donut that allows the front tires to deflect significantly during normal driving and will render any attempt at front end alignment futile. I have replaced my "blown" busings with aftermarket solid poly bushings to restore directional stability and allow it to hold an alignment. Another example of defective parts that the manufacturer refuses to recognize. Just something everyone should know...
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