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Pontiac GTO

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Comments

  • gtogmgtogm Posts: 31
    Either car is a good choice. I just preferred GTO. My was not $6k more. I paid $31k for my GTO, Mustangs in my area are $2k over Msrp, about $30k.

    In the end I only paid $1k more for GTO. Pretty close.

    What about Mustang owners paying $10k more then GTO owners to get the base Saleen, which only adds 15 more hp and is still slower and cheaper interior then GTO. You are just paying for the Saleen name on your car. I believe it's only .1 of a second faster 0-60 then GT.
  • jontyreesjontyrees Posts: 159
    Hmm, thought I was in the GTO forum, but apparently I wandered into the Mustang vs GTO forum by mistake.
  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    You know, I'm over the BS reviews/comparos between the Mustang and the GTO. People should stop listening to the "conventional wisdom" and actually take the damn cars out for a test drive. Then, go buy what you like (and can afford). For me, it's the GTO... was coming home Saturday night from a get-together of my buddies from high school (graduated 22 years ago, *sigh*). Hopping on the freeway in rural Wisconsin, just punched it and was almost doing 80 halfway down the ramp - decided to let off in case Mr. Officer was nearby. Gotta love the INSANE amount of power available - puts a smile on my face every time I put my foot into it. Like the unexpected patch of rubber I laid this morning on the 1-2 shift through an intersection near my house :-)

    I spent about 4 1/2 hours driving on Saturday (to N. Chicago 'burbs, then back up to my home town in Wisconsin to visit Mom, then to the party and back home)... didn't feel achy/tired at all... seats are awesome, and my only complaint was that I had to keep turning the A/C down because it was freezing me out (while it was mid-high 90's and humid outside).

    God I love this car. Speaking of that, can anyone see the GTO in this picture below? :-)

    image
  • sputterguysputterguy Posts: 383
    I'm going to try to post some photos with the help of a friend (his computer, his scanner). Anyway, if it works you'll see some original 60's muscle, a 68 Firebird 400, then a 98 GTP, and then an 04 GTO. Sorry there are no chicks in the pictures.

    Image hosted by Photobucket.com

    Image hosted by Photobucket.com

    Image hosted by Photobucket.com
  • silvergoatsilvergoat Posts: 12
    I am pleased to join this great fraternity (I got my Silver /Red A4 Goat about three weeks ago and it is as Tony the Tiger would say, it's GRRRREEEAAATTT..!!!

    I did have a question through. I was going through the owners manual and I found a statement referring to the the remote control on the key. It states that the battery should last for about 5 years, there is not replacement for it and you must replace it.

    At about $300 or so for the key this seems absurd. Does anyone know anything this?
  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    The keyfob is sealed. The actual key portion is easily removed by the two screws in the fob, but the fob does not have a replaceable battery. They've used this system in Australia for several years and they do seem to be lasting for at least 5 years. I don't believe it's $300 for the fob - more like $100 - and, if this gets to be an issue, someone like JHP or CAPA will make $$$ selling these parts to U.S. GTO owners.

    The fob needs to work in order for the immobilizer to work/the car to start, so not replacing it is not an option...

    --Robert
  • gottabgtogottabgto Posts: 95
    I was reading through the owners guide and am confused about having the car serviced. It seems they are saying that oil changes are annual. Can that be right? I'm at about 3k miles now and was thinking I'd take it in for an oil change.
    What service schedule are others following?
    And while I'm at it - what other services do you have done?
    Thanks for any input you can give me.
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  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    Besides oil changes (had one right before picking up my replacement car, at 42 miles - switched to Mobil-1 on my '04), I had my tires rotated around 3k miles at the first oil change. There have been some poor factory alignment issues, which have caused strut rub and/or trashed tires - had my alignment checked to the revised factory specs (your dealer needs to call TAC to get them, or I can post them here) - it was out, so I had it done. I also had my tires road-force balanced, since they ended up replacing one rim due to the trading dealer's incompetence (pulled the tire and chipped the finiish on the rim - also gouged/scratched up a number of the log nut caps, instead of using the little yellow cap removal tool in the trunk).

    People are also complaining about the brake fluid looking cruddy, replacing it with Valvoline synthetic and getting much superior braking abilities (installing C5 Corvette pads on your '04 helps as well - yes, they fit). The differential gear oil also tends to sludge up - lots of folks switching that out for Royal Purple, and noticing much quieter diffs after doing so. Some are taking this further and changing out the tranny fluid/clutch fluid, as, a lot of times the factory stuff looks crappy/contaminated after 6+ months of install and shipping. My brake fluid wasn't bad, but I may change it when I put the car in storage in early November - ditto the differential fluid.

    Hope this helps,

    --Robert
  • lovegtolovegto Posts: 23
    Thanks for the information, even though I may not comply with all your suggestions. I put about 1,400 miles a month on my car and will drive it in winter as well as summer. I have always had rear wheel drive cars except the 2000 cougar I had for the last five years. ie 72 Duster, 80 Firebird, 84 TBird and 92 Cougar. I have found that once the manufacturers came out with traction control that when combined with a bag or two of sand in the trunk that traction in the winter was not an issue even without snow tires. I would hope the GTO performs as effectively in the snow.
    I do have a question about the type of Mobil one oil to use. Exxon is advertising a long life, 15,000 mile mobil one. depending on price this should reduce costs as well as the inconvenience of changing the oil every three months. Nevertheless engine maintenance is important as I intend to own the car for at least seven years and put at least 120,000 miles on it. Since you seem to know everything about cars, do you know any of the differences in or have any preferences regarding synthetic oils?
  • elkiiielkiii Posts: 50
    If you have an '05 Mobil 1 is the recommeded oil. At least thats what it says in my owners manual and on the oil cap. The '05 also monitors the mileage and how the car is driven to determine oil change intervals. Don't know if this feature is available on the '04. I also don't know how well it works.

    Like Hammen I plan on putting mine in storage for the winter. Despite the limited slip and traction control 400 hp is still 400 hp. Not much fun to drive in the snow on summer tires.
  • gottabgtogottabgto Posts: 95
    So Robert, you are changing the oil every 3,000 (or plan to)?
    I have noticed the alignment seems to be out too so I will have that done as well as the tires rotated (with instructions to use the special tool).
    This helps greatly - thanks very much.
    Cathy
  • gottabgtogottabgto Posts: 95
    Hey - nice cars Sputter.
    I'm gonna have to try to post some.
  • gottabgtogottabgto Posts: 95
    Yes, 05 - I should have mentioned that.
    Guess I'd just rather err on the side of caution and do the oil changes more often than less - seems like it'd be better for the engine...
  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    If I were in your shoes I would give some serious thought to getting some cheap rims and some dedicated snow tires. Not sure if you have the 17" or 18" wheels - the Bridgestone's on the 18's are summer-only, and, while the BFG's on the 17"'s are supposed to be an all-season tire, they do not perform well in snow. Again, strongly suggest you look at dedicated snow tires. And, here's another tip: in winter, when you turn the defrost on to defog the windows, you must also manually turn the A/C on. If you don't, you'll think the defrost isn't working (the air coming out near the corner of the windows/by the mirrors, is very weak).

    I am fortunate to still have my '98 Aurora (did not want to trade the car in - I own it free and clear, still love it, and would have received not much for it on a trade), so it's my winter car (in storage now).

    I know that Mobil now has various extended-life Mobil 1 blends. I have no experience with them, though, so right now I'm sticking with 5W30 (though some recommend 0W40 for the LS1's and LS2's). I am still kicking around buying the GM warranty, and a lot of times, they insist on no more than 4k between oil interval changes, so that's what I'll do. I bought the NAPA Gold filter (do yourself a favor, NEVER use Fram) and a 5 qt jug + 1 qt at Wally World. Was going to do it myself, but got busy and paid to have it done.

    I really don't know everything about cars - that's my cubicle mate at work, who restored his '69 Firebird convertible and is halfway through the restoration of his '69 TA. But, I do try to read/know a lot about this car (as well as the Aurora :-)

    --Robert
  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    I'm doing 4k for the Mobil 1. I could probably go longer, but don't want to chance any potential warranty issues.

    Regarding alignment, your profile says you're in the Bay Area. Strongly suggest you go visit Dublin Motor Sports, a Pontiac-GMC dealer. Mike White from that dealership is probably the most knowledgeable dealer guy there is on alignment and strut rub (spent a lot of time working with Pontiac regarding the issue, TAC knows the revised alignment specs).

    For those not close to the Bay Area, here are the suggested specs:
    front
    camber: -.2 plus/minus .5 (.-.7 to .3)
    caster: 7.75 degrees plus/minus 1.25 (9.00 to 6.5)
    cross caster: plus or minus .6 degrees
    toe: .17 degrees plus or minus .17 degrees (0 to .34 degrees)
    stick with something that is close to 0-.17 degrees

    rear
    camber: -1.05 plus or minus .63 (-.42 to -1.68 degrees)
    toe: .4 plus.minus .34 (.06 to .74) - very important to keep this number low.

    The rear cambers should be as positive as specs allow (-.42 degrees)
  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    ...in a previous post, I mentioned replacing the pads with those from a C5 Corvette. This works on the front pads only, not the rear, so don't try that at home :-)

    I will probably do this, only when the front pads are worn. Ditto replacing the rims - I'm saving up for genuine Holden CV8-R rims (18"), which I'll put on after my stock tires are junk.

    --Robert
  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    The Holden Monaro CV8-Z will be the last Monaro on the current V-platform.

    1200 will be built starting August 1, with production ending before the end of the year. It comes with sunroof, black hood scoop accents, machine-faced alloys with the CV8-Z logo embossed on one spoke, modified taillamps and gunmetal chrome CV8-Z badges. Pricing will be around $60,000 Australian dollars (about $45,000 US).

    In Australia, if you choose Fusion Orange or Phantom Black you get a Fusion instrument cluster and a Fusion and Anthracite leather trim combination.

    The other available colors in Australia are Quicksilver, Devil Yellow, and Turismo Blue, with Anthracite leather.

    The U.S. GTO will continue production until June of 2006, and be offered in the following colors/interior colors:
    Phantom Black (red/black), Quicksilver (red/black), Impulse Blue (blue/black), Cyclone Grey (black), Fusion Orange (only black in the U.S.), and Shanghai Red (black). Yellow Jacket and Midnight Blue Metallic are gone after '05, just like Cosmos Purple Metallic and Barbados Blue were gone after '04.

    Artist's illustrations of the last Monaro here:

    image
    image
  • I am still a firm believer in the three months or three thousand mile oil changes. It will take me three years to hit 3000 miles on my 05.

    For those of you with garage cars like mine, when your car sits moisture builds up in the engine which is a bad combination. So whether your car sits or you drive alot your oil still needs changed in a timely manner.
  • Hammen do you know what performance mods I can make to my 05 that will not void the warranty. I would assume a ram air kit would be ok but what about headers?
    I know tweaking the computer is out of the question unless you are able to change the settings back to factory specs before being serviced.

    You have been very helpful...

    Steve.
  • I am assuming these cars have a rev limiter and not fuel shut off like the new stangs. Does anyone know exactly what rpm the rev limiter kicks in? I am hoping you can take these cars to 6700 rpm before losing power.

    In case you are wandering why i don't find out for myself i have not had time to put enough miles on my 05 6 sp. to run it that hard YET.

    Thanks for your input...

    Steve.
  • elkiiielkiii Posts: 50
    Well, given todays engines the and the oil that recommended you could be wasting a lot of money changing the oil every 3000 mi. But it should be changed at least once a year.

    Starting and running the engine should take care of any moisture buildup. Also, most synthetics are less prone to moisture contamination than non-synthetics.

    For '05 (I don't know about the '04) the owners manual describes how the engine oil life system works. My RSX used to just measure mileage. The system described in the manual uses engine revs and temp to determine the change. For some here I suspect the change interval could be well under 3000mi.
  • gxpgtodanmangxpgtodanman Posts: 210
    I change the oil on my everyday cars, every 3 months regardless of mileage and have never had a problem.

    For my antique cars I change the oil once a year, they only see 500 miles a year if that. I have never had a problem
  • kevm14kevm14 Posts: 423
    I have no experience with them, though, so right now I'm sticking with 5W30 (though some recommend 0W40 for the LS1's and LS2's).

    Made in Germany Castrol Syntec 0W-30 is also a very excellent oil for the Gen-III small block (actually, all of them). You have to make sure the bottle says made in germany on the back though. The USA blend stuff isn't the same! And the label has to be red, not yellow. IMO, M1 5W-30 is not the right oil for these engines (again, none of them) even though they seem to live a long time on it (then again, last time I checked, small blocks live a long time on ANY oil). If it has to be a Mobil 1 product, M1 Truck & SUV 5W-40 is a good choice. It's a really robust oil closely related to their excellent Delvac 1. Don't let the name throw you...
  • kevm14kevm14 Posts: 423
    The rear cambers should be as positive as specs allow (-.42 degrees)

    This will probably dial out some understeer. Was that your purpose in mentioning it?
  • kevm14kevm14 Posts: 423
    Starting and running the engine should take care of any moisture buildup. Also, most synthetics are less prone to moisture contamination than non-synthetics.

    Two things....if the car is in storage, starting and idling it for 20 minutes does NOT constitute burning off moisture. Actually, that will have the net result of putting MORE moisture in the oil. So for you storage people, you're better off NOT starting it all winter in that case. Second, how are synthetics less prone to collect moisture? They might be better oils so maybe the properties of the oil can keep the engine lubed better in spite of any water in there, but they can't really change how much water condenses or gets deposited in the oil.
  • lovegtolovegto Posts: 23
    Thanks again for the advice. I will get the snow tires and change the oil every three months. I also own an Aurora but it is a 2003 final 500 model. However I am not likely to get it from my wife, she loves oldsmobiles. She might say I can only get it from her cold dead hands. Actually I prefer the the 1998 Aurora design, it has to be one of the classiest designed cars ever made by GM almost like a jaguar in its looks.
  • sputterguysputterguy Posts: 383
    It took awhile but I can make out two yellow ones.

    The '04 is still a pretty fast ride, isn't it?
  • sputterguysputterguy Posts: 383
    Isn't the Saleen first and formost a handling and appearance package? Helluva price to pay I know.
  • sputterguysputterguy Posts: 383
    Thanks Cathy. Would love to see pictures of yours. You have black on black don't you?

    With my GTP (pictured above) I changed the oil every 2K. Changing it at 2K doesn't get dirty. Since I was leasing the '04 I figured I would change it at 3 months or 3K but it seems I only drive about 2K every 3 months. So I am still changing it every 2K. I change the air filter every year. It's due now but I think I am going to open up the breathing and get a K & N filter. And that's my service plan for what it's worth....
This discussion has been closed.