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Jaguar: Problems and Solutions

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  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,667
    According to Edmund's "True Cost To Own" calculations:

    True Cost To Own: Calculate for Jaguar S Type Here

    your future S Type does very well in its class, although none of the cars in its class are particularly cheap to own. Edmunds says .55 cents a mile, (see criteria used for the calculation in the link I sent you), which one would expect compared to a Toyota Echo for instance.

    Probably the only area where the S Type does not perform well on a cost per mile basis is when you figure in depreciation. It will depreciate more heavily than say a Lexus...figure about $10,000 in 5 years, or a little more.

    Naturally, the car you buy in used condition counts for a lot here. The cost-to-own calculations presume you started with a car in very good condition and also presumes a decent level of dealer support.
  • If anyone could help? I am looking to change the front brakes on a 92 XJS12.
    After looking at the callipers I see four bolts that look more like they hold the calliper
    together? I am used to the two bolt system that most cars use to hold the calliper to the
    suspension. I did see two other bolts that could be what i am used to. I just thought I would seek
    advice before I dig in.

    Its been a few years but do I open the reservoir cover when I compress the piston?

    Any other advice would be appreciated.

    PS Had no Idea about the rear brake system. Never seen it and wont be touching them. LOL
  • After having new struts installed a message has appeared on dash that reads CATS Fault. Is there a computer that needs to be reset? :confuse:
  • joe57joe57 Posts: 3
    the car ran fine, turned it off, went out next morning and wouldn't start. the message center flashed a message about "trac" and "asc" not available and boot not available, also, i can't get the gear shift out of park position. each time i try to start it, i get one turn of the key, a click, and this message board. any suggestions as what to try?
  • seminole_kevseminole_kev Posts: 1,722
    Dead battery?
  • treadwelltreadwell Posts: 1
    My 98 XJ8 just started to stall out when driving. It has 128,000 highway miles. I can coast to a stop, than re-start and it will run rough. Stepping on the gas causes it to die out. Than after setting for a few minutes (off) re-starting I can get it going. Than it will die out or sputter and then kick in like nothing is wrong. It sounds like a fuel filter problem or ignition coil packs. If coil packs how does one test them (without dealer) we have a lousy dealer in our area. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
  • gxmangxman Posts: 2
    recently i detailed the interior of my jag and i hit the valet mode button now i can't get it out of valet mode.i don't have a remote.is there anyway mannually i can get it out of valet mode.i tried pressing the valet mode button over and over again and again and still can't get it out of this mode. my trunk won't open and my sunroof opens but closes up about ten seconds later. is there anyone out there that can help me. thanks.
  • rnrmusicrnrmusic Posts: 1
    Yes the only way to reset the valet button (because I just did this) is to open the trunk manually with the key. Stick the key in the little hole between the X and the K on the rear panel label. There is a hole for it- it hard to see. This will reset your buttons and open your trunk......Good Luck
  • cobraskipcobraskip Posts: 1
    Does anyone know the name of the paint manufacturer Jaguar is using on their 2005 models? I am building a 1966 Cobra Replica and am interested in painting it their color called Radiance which is a metallic paint.

    Thanks
  • kkrkkr Posts: 1
    I have the same problem on my 1998 XJ8. Did you find the solution to this problem?
  • dalydogdalydog Posts: 1
    Hi, I have a 1995 XJS Convertible and the trunk will not open. It had been working just fine up until about 2 weeks ago. I took it to a dealer and the service personal told me they were not that familiar with the older style. I contacted Jaguar head office in Canada and someone called back and said to remove the back seat to gain access to the trunk, "impossibble no access". The trunk will lock and unlock however it seems as if the release latch is disengaged. Can anyone offer a solution to the problem? is there a release button or wire located anywhere to pop trunk. I have my golf clubs and laptop in the trunk However my wife is loving the whole situation unlike myself"
  • joe57joe57 Posts: 3
    I JUST NEEDED A NEW BATTERY...CAN GET THEM FROM MOST ANY AUTO SUPPLY STORE....
  • chef2kchef2k Posts: 1
    the interior lighting of my 2000 jag s-type quit working... i tried the button in the overhead console and nothing happened... is there a reset or could it be a fuse problem?
  • My dad just bought a 1991 Jaguar Vandenplas a month ago. The majority of the time it does not start. It has life in the battery but it does not turn over to start. He has taken it to two different mechanics already and has spent $600 on: a new battery, oil change, fuel filter. He doesn't know if he should try the mechanics again or sell the car b/c it is not worth the aggravation! Does anyone know what the problem could be?
  • Personally I'd ditch this car as soon as possible. It will never end. Probably ignition related as this is a common failure but who knows? These "mechanics" should be diagnosing prior to replacing parts. You should go to a jaguar specialist, get the car fixed and sell it ASAP--that would be my advice. If you like jaguars, buy a much newer one and you will be happier with it.

    The big problem with the older Jags is that they are ridiculously cheap to buy and ridiculously expensive to fix.
  • hunter8hunter8 Posts: 1
    When was the last time a the car had a minor tune - up? Fuel filter is a start but there is a bit more to it. I have a 1990 XJ6 that is my daily driver for sales calls. I just completed a 1,200 mile one way trip and didn't have a problem. By 1990 Lucas was almost all gone and Ford had a heavy hand in quality control and actually the 1991 was in with Ford more than a 1990. If you had a Series IIII (up to 1988) I'd say, you do have your work cut out for you. I once owned an SIII, ran it for 5 yeas and always had a to-do list.

    I am assuming that the car you bought had reasonable care by the previous owner (PO). Did you get maintenance from the PO? If it were my car the first things would be fuel filter, plugs, wires, rotor, rotor cap, clean the relay ears, fuel regulator. Under the right knee bolster is a bank of relays that I'd clean. Clean out the duck bill under the hood so that no water gets into the car. For spark plug wires, I'd go with Magnecor 8mm.

    Here's a place I've hung out at for the past 8 years or more: WWW.Jag-lovers.org
    Find Forums and go to the XJ40 forum. You'll need to sign up and after that you can search the archives, look at the XJ40 on line book, post, etc.

    I've had my 90XJ6 for 5 years. I paid $5,500 for it and have not had any problems except routine maintenance (plugs, wires, etc). Of course there are people out that that DO NOT take care of their cars and you may have bought one of them. Doesn't matter if it is a Jag or Jeep, if it didn't receive minimal maintenance you will need to do the maintenance that they did not do for you.

    We just picked up (drove it across the country) a 1995 DeVille Concours. 40,000 miles ago the PO spent $917 (at the dealer) for plug wires and coil paks. For simplicity coil paks have taken over the rotor/rotor cap/single coil job. The dealer told him that the car was good to go for another 100,000 miles (and the PO believed them). Well half way across the country the car begin to mis. When arriving in North Platt for our evening stay, in the dark I opened the hood to check on the plu wires. It looked like DIsney Land, arcing and carbon tracing.....the wires were shot. I could have gone to the dealer and paid the $917. Instead I am spending $126 on new Magnecor 8MM wires and bought the 4 coil paks for $80 retail. That is a lot less than the dealer.

    Maintenance and cost of ownership also comes down to ....how much do you know about cars?
  • I purchased a 1998 Jaguar VDP with 56K miles from a reputable dealer approx. 53 days ago. The thirty day warranty is now expired and I didn't buy the extended warranty.

    Now (surprise) the transmission went out and the dealer says that it needs to be replaced.

    I drove the car only about 350 miles total during the 53 days, so obviously I complained that this must have been a pre-existing condition that they either missed or failed to tell me about. I'm not mechanically inclined, but if the fluid was new when I picked the car up and is now reportedly black and "burnt", then something seems fishy after such a short time.

    The dealer, to their credit, has initially offered to eat the cost of a "salvaged" transmission from a car with 36K miles. They indicate this is approximately $3,500. They are requesting that I pay for the labor to install the salvaged transmission ($567 + tax)

    Questions:
    - does this seem like a good deal considering I'm out of warranty and they probably don't legally have to do anything??

    - what are the implications of a salvaged transmission? I don't know the circumstances related to this transmission and only have the dealer's word that it is from a car with 36k miles. Is there any way to check this? I don't want some rusty piece of crap that's been sitting out in a junk yard for four years.

    - if I agree to the deal (as my wife wants me to) can I get them to provide some warranty relative to the salvaged part?

    I would really appreciate any help or information. The service manager is waiting for a call back with my decision. Thanks again.

    p.s. I'm in Florida if that has any bearing on the situation...
  • Well it's either a salvage transmission or you have to go to court about it, so......

    The salvage transmission should have a parts warranty from the wrecking yard, but you might ask the dealer to give you a labor guarantee, that is, if the trans fails or doesn't work right, the dealer will swap in another used trans for free. If he doesn't guarantee the labor end and if the salvage yard doesn't guarantee the parts end, then there's only one person left that's going to be stuck for everything...can you guess who?

    So I'd advise to either get the guarantees from both parties assured (and the labor part in writing on the RO) or call an attorney.
  • We have a 1998 XJ8. Purchased used a few years ago. The trans has been replaced twice. $2k plus each time because they were out of 1 yr warranty. $600 for a used tranny sounds like worth a chance if you don't mind the hassle of replacing it again if it fails. I wouldn't expect any warranty but maybe your shop will be generous and offer something in case it fails. I understand these particular 1998 trannys are problematic. Don't know if a later model (hopefully better) model would fit. Good luck.
  • I was wondering if you ever got into your trunk.... I have a 96 XJS and just got locked out of the trunk tonight. It has gym bags in it with wet towels etc... (fortunately no laptop).
    Did you ever hear back from anyone with any tips on how to open it? I have exactly the same problem you mentioned, it will lock but when unlocked it is as if the latch is not attached to anything. (very frustrating)
    Let me know..........
    Thanks
    Jeff
This discussion has been closed.