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Volvo V70/XC70: Problems & Solutions

2

Comments

  • stmssstmss Posts: 206
    Everyone is out enjoying their Volvo ;)

    Check the board here with the most posts - V70 Wagon Experience - not this one.
  • crissmancrissman Posts: 145
    Minor bummer. Filled up the tank on my wife's new V70 for the first time last night. Low fuel light had been on for maybe ten miles and I got 17 gal. into the tank. That agreed with the manual (1.8 gal. remain when light comes on). I was happy. Then I start it up and the guage only goes up to about one third tank and stops. Checked it a couple more times last night, bounced the bumper, rocked it side to side, and still no joy. Has anyone had this happen, or have some theories? I haven't talked to my wife yet since this morning, so it may have cured itself. If it has I think we won't let the tank get so low again.
  • crissmancrissman Posts: 145
    Well, the fuel guage has healed itself, at least temporarily. It still is rather curious. Can't wait to see if it does it again at the next fill-up. By the way, the "miles to empty" reading in the information panel also increased as the guage reading went up.
  • crissmancrissman Posts: 145
    Don't have a problem with it, yet, but I'm concerned for the potential of it happening. Is there a manual release for the fuel door on the 2005 V70? I've looked behind the access hatch for rear bulb changing and didn't see anything obvious, at least without using an inspection mirror. I'd hate to learn it didn't work when the tank was really low, and, of course, that's exactly when it would happen. Thanks for your expert assistance.
  • crissmancrissman Posts: 145
    Found out last night that it is possible to manually release the fuel door. Just feel around behind the foam covering the mechanism until you locate the cylindrical plunger/latch on the left side of the door. I was able to gently retract it toward the back of the car. It moved easily with very little resistance. Didn't need to remove anything, just open the bulb changing hatch. I assume it will relock when my wife drives off this morning.
  • ebljeblj Posts: 1
    I am looking at a 1998 V70 AWD wagon for sale.
    I have never owned a volvo.
    Any thoughts , suggestions, cautions for this year & model.
    What kind of milage can I expect?
    Any particular trouble spots?
    Any help greatly appreciated!...Eric
  • bettebette Posts: 3
    I bought it new in June 05, have 12K miles on it and so far no problems. I bought when Volvo had $8K rebate, got $9K off total msrp and four 7,500 mile services free. Traded 03 Infiniti I35 with 54K miles. Cars have different missions, but all things considered the Volvo seems to be a better car, especially at price paid.
  • dewetdewet Posts: 2
    I have searched for off road tests on the XC70 to no avail. Is this beacuse it is not regarded as a 4x4? I have just bought a 2001 XC70 and would like to know how capable it is off road - Shall I stick to gravel or can i take on some loose sand as well. Would appreciate it if anyone can tell me where to find off-road tests or just give me their own experiences off-road
  • After 20 days without a brand new '06 xc70 in the first three months I can understand your reservations. If time clocks were available I would revert to pre signing and avoid Volvo altogether. Constant vibration 85KM and 125KM
    3 wheels rebalanced, one drive shaft replaced, vibration continues and is said to be "the inherent imbalance of a 5 cylinder engine" ?? Tires anyone?
    Also 2 trips to first replace mid vehicle exhaust bracket and return to do it properly - as very loud squeele starts when driving in moderate slush. Newmarket Ontario
  • Any resolution to this problem - you can share?
    Speed at which occurs, tires etc.?
  • 2006v702006v70 Posts: 5
    This time my 2006 V70 2.5T broke down on me while I was driving 70MPH on a very busy highway in the fast lane. I tried to accelerate and had no power. Fortunately, the car had enough momentum so I could pull over onto the shoulder. I was then stuck in a car that would not start up at all in over 100F weather with my 2 kids in the car for about an hour, and Volvo's roadside assistance was not the greatest. However, I'm counting my blessings b/c the car could have stalled at a slower speed in the middle lane, and I most certainly would have been hit by another vehicle.
    The car is now at the dealer again, and I have a feeling that this current problem is related to the previous episode when my car stalled at a car wash.
    The problem with the tire pressure warning system was finally fixed, but only after many phone calls to Volvo customer service and by involving the regional manager. Volvo actually had to call the dealer to get things done.
    Needless to say at this point I'm even more frustrated than before with Volvo.
    Please post if anyone else has had similar experiences. I would love to know if my vehicle is a mutant or if there is a broader problem. I LOVE my car, but seriously am considering getting rid off it and not go with Volvo again.
  • 2006v702006v70 Posts: 5
    Picked up the car from the shop. Turns out that the fuel sensor was defective and car ran out of gas, even though the fuel gauge was indicating that the tank was still half-full. Volvo dealer replaced sensor and fuel pump. Yet another electrical problem...
  • gedafegedafe Posts: 8
    Yep, same here. I have a 2001 Volvo V70 2.4T (80K) and have had the ETM replaced ($1000)[sidenote: Volvo is currently issuing a refund/update to the ETM for ETM-related problems], and the clunk which I have doesn't seem to affect performance, but I think it's related to the sway bar linkage in the front suspension. According to our Volvo dealership, they said that nothing was wrong, but that the sway bars were loose. However, I think the linkage is broken, and allows the suspension to move upon starting up from a stopped position causing a clunk of the suspension moving against the frame of the car... geez, it seems that most of the time, I know what's wrong with my car before Volvo can figure it out, and the dealership justs overprices the repairs. (Soapbox note: Last time I was in, I was asked what services I wanted done on my car concerning the noises I was hearing. Shouldn't they be able to troubleshoot?) Anyway, I'm not sure the sway bar repairs are a DIY job, but if you can, more power to you.

    On a second thought, has anyone figured out what the secret to non-warping front brake rotors on the V70? I'm on my third set in 80K miles. That seems a bit obsurd.
  • cdnfoolcdnfool Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 v70 T5 and had the same problem. The gas gauge didn't work either. The dealer had to re-program the computer that controls that portion of the electric's. Don't know how many computers there are but have had to have - engine management, automatic climate, locking system and transmission computers all re-programmed in the year and a half I have owned the car.
  • blckislandguyblckislandguy Posts: 1,150
    I posted some time ago about how much we like our silver '01 XC wagon. Great winter vehicle. Great handling on the Interstates with two couples and lots of luggage aboard, etc. Probably the best seats in the business. BUT, there have been some problems. Lots of them. Most fixed under warranty. For a complete list you could look under an earlier post, but as I recall the transmission, front struts, electric latch on the rear door, Emmission Thottle Module, and other parts have all been replaced under warranty. Maybe more. Non warranty items include the brakes and rotors for a cool $1100, front control arms, and other repairs.

    We take good care of the car (Mobil 1, wash it regularly with frequent detailing, don't let things go before fixing them). To avoid oil coking on a hot turbo, I even raise the hood to help dissapate the heat from the engine when we come off the road after a long drive on a hot day. Now at 70K miles we want to keep it out to at least 125K.

    But, here we go again. This week two lights came on in rapid succession: check engine light and check emissions. Took it into the dealer and they re-set or adjusted the emissions unit under warranty. (Sorry, can't get full details from my wife.) The very next day, the car would only run on 5 cylinders and the number 3 injector needed to be replaced. That cost $300.

    This car has had a lot of service issues in its young life. The dealer is poor. A big sign in the service department says that all cars will be washed before being returned to the customer. Ours has been washed once in 6 years. I have found enough Snap On tools in the engine compartment following service work to stock a Snap On truck. Sure loaners are available. If you book the service work three weeks ahead. Who has that kind of lead time with brakes, ETM issues, etc.?

    Here's the dilemma: we like the car when it is running and would like to get more use out of it without buying a new car. If we do buy a new car, to get the kind of hand holding I think we deserve, we would have to step up from "near luxury" to "luxury" and buy a Mercedes E Class wagon. The E Class Fourmatic is nowhere near the vehicle as the XC70 despite a 20K higher price.
  • jomotojomoto Posts: 12
    Sama here....is like a slight vibration....not too noticeable, but can be noted after a time driving...I noted this happens specially whern driving on rugged pavment, or uneven surfaces in general..as if the pedal was in connection with the suspension, not the engine...
  • jomotojomoto Posts: 12
    Hello.....
    I've had mine for few time, but does not seem it will fit for the 4x4 purposes...I think it was created to beat high snow, or mud of the kind you find in countriside roads, but not much more......enyway, I think is perfect fot that¡¡¡
  • bcoolbcool Posts: 59
    I had a similar problem, which was puzzling me for a while. Then my tire went flat. The tire had started coming apart. I had sliced it up either on a rock or a manhole cover, and it was bulging. The vibration in the gas pedal was due to the tire imbalance. A thorough inspection of the tire would have caught the problem.
  • jomotojomoto Posts: 12
    Just opened the hood today to look at the engine and found that the vent frame has two screws (hex 10mm) and noted it had lost one of them and the other was loosen. Maybe this is because the vent can hardly be perfectly balanced as in any car, but is a potentially dangerous situation for the engine. So I got another screw and tightened both firmly. Please check that so you dont find yourselves that the vent caused a mess in the place because it was loosen. Also noted the oil bayonette does not seal perfectly and oil drops on the air intake hose. Considering is rubber I am afraid it can be damaged sooner or later, so I cleaned with ecology friendly dirt remover. Besides this our 2002 XC rides beautifuly on highway and has plenty of power to pass or climb. Greetings from Mexico city
  • craig23craig23 Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 V70 XC and I have had the same experience. 70mph, lost of ability to accelerate. This has happened 3 times. Once, when I pulled over, the car stalled. The car has stalled twice since. No check engine light or computer reading.

    Did you learn anything at the dealer? My dealer just shakes his head.

    Craig
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