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2nd Generation Toyota 4Runners (90-95)

13

Comments

  • It has significant rust underneath and the muffler needs to be completely replaced. Interior is great, engine seems to run fine and has been maintained. Not sure of towing history, but what else do I need to look out for under the hood at 188,000 miles. They are asking $3800. I mean the rust is so bad underneath that the wheel on the spare is about shot...

    Is the rust something that can be easily repaired without spending too much?

    Thanks for any ideas...

    Matt
  • i would like to know how to remove my car radio; step by step; it's a 1993 toyota 4runner SR5.

    if anyone knows how to please email me promptly.
    jrhay2000@hotmail.com
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,436
    Crutchfield.com or Installdr.com may help until an owner shows up and responds. More general links are in the Online Repair Manuals Guide.

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • the cheapest thing I could think would be to get more air flow into the engine.

    try driving it for a short distance with the air cleaner unhooked so its getting straight air.Dont do it in a dusty condition or for very long or you might get crud inside the engine.But for a short test to see if it will make an improvement before doing anything more it should be fine.

    Disconnect the air filter from the throttle body and try driving it to see if more air helps. it it does then consider spending the $30 to get a high flow air filter set up.

    thats all I can think of for cheap horses.

    I stuck a high energy cam in my 89 with a 22re and man did that help alot.I was so happy with the way it felt, but within less than 1 year my timing chain started rattling like they do on these engines, instead of instally metal timing chain guides I just got rid of the truck.

    The timing chain guides last alot longer if you just let the engine get up to speeds nice and easy, dont try and force the engine to get you to a speed.Who cares how fast you can go when your paying less for the fuel to move you down the road, thats all that really matters when it comes down to it.That the vehicle moves you down the road and gets you to your destination.The 22re in a 4runner is one of the top 3 for gas consuption, but you cant expect it to get good mileage and last forever if you force the engine to work past what it feels comfortable doing.If your making it go quick when it really just wants to slowly crawl to a speed, your just ruining it. You can tell if your overdoing it by feeling the engine working and only giving it just enough gas pedal to make it gradually get up to a speed.

    The V6 version is worse on gas than a fullsize chevy blazer 4x4 is...chevy blazer 15MPG with a 350 auto
    toyota 4runner 14MPG with 3.0 V6 auto trans... if you get a 4runner with a 3.0 auto...you might aswell go get yourself a chevy blazer fullsize.
  • Does anyone have the skinny on replacing a parking brake cable? 1994 4runner v6, 4wd, manual......Pulled it out the other day and it just went completely slack.
  • jzim1jzim1 Posts: 1
    My 4R, has 190,000 its in good condition. I recently developed a problem with the engine. It stumbles as you accelerate. It starts fine but it idles at 1500rpm when its cold. The stumbling seems worse when its cold but it also stumbles when its hot. At times you can go down the road 60-70 with no problem, there is no back firing or popping. It also idles at about 1100-1200 rpm when hot in neutral or park. In gear like in D it idles at 800-1000 rpm. I have done the plugs, wires.fuel filter, cap & rotor. My EGR valve has no vacuum coming to it. If I get vacuum to it from a different source I can get it to get very hot. So my EGR valve never seems to feel warm or hot so I do not think its working properly. Where does the vacuum come from that makes the EGR function.? I also checked the EGR modual and I cannot really tell if its working. My hood sticker is missing so i don't know the proper idle settings or timing degrees.I have not done a compression check because the plugs are so hard to get to. I have not checked the fuel injectors because they are also so darn hard to get to. How do you check the fuel pressure there is no place to hook up a gauge. Any ideas would be welcome.
  • mwolfemwolfe Posts: 7
    :D Bwahhhhhaaaahhhhhaaaahhhaaaaaaa!!!!!!!!!!!

    I'm gonna go buy some wider shoes and see if I can walk on walls.....
  • mwolfemwolfe Posts: 7
    I bought a 95 4-Runner with a 3.0 m/t 130K miles for $1500 because it had a blown head gasket. I replaced the head gaskets, and everything seems tight. BTW, origional problems looks to have been overheating due to a failed fan clutch, and a ton of gunk in the radiator.
    My fuel mileage is slowing increasing, and I have been running lucas fuel injector cleaner at every fillup. It is just shy of 20MPG as of yesterday.
    My issues are:
    General lack of power- a friend let me drive his 89 3.0, and it blew mine away in the power department.
    Rough idle: idles rough enough to shake the shifter, almost as if a cylinder is partially missing. This happens most of the time, but on occassion, it's smooth.
    Uneven accelleration: if you accellerate at a contant rate, the engine seems "more efficient" at a certain RPM range ( 2500-3000 ). If you give it the gas, it makes more noise, but doesn't seem to take off that much faster. (feels like clogged cat ). I didn't have the ability to drive it pre-gasket issue, so I was wondering if anyone had som advice before I start throwing wads at it replacing sensors, etc. I have tried to check the MAS, TPS and air bypass according to my Haynes manual, nothing seems right. In fact, the pin on the MAS that the manual tells me to check is missing on my harness connector, so I wonder why it even matters. When I check the resistance, it jumps all over as I actuate the flapper. The air bypass never seems to shut off, and my TPS doesn't seem to short the IDL and full throttle contacts. :confuse:
  • Can anyone tell me how I can get the starter pulled back so I can remove the harmonic balancer. I am removing the head gaskets, new timing belt and water pump since I am tearing it down. if anyone has any advice I could sure it. I have a manual but it covers a large time period it does not tell me everything . Like the tire well entry to the starter that i still can't see the bolts. I thought after trying for more than 2 hours to get to the starter. maybe i could cut the belt since i am replacing it any way. i thought could get to the starter after the heads are removed and take the balancer off at that time. Any advice would be great?
  • Hi, and I am hoping that someone can help me with my problem.
    I own a 1990 Toy 4Runner SR5 V6. I had ZERO problems with her since I bought her 2+ years ago, 190,000 miles, eligible for the steering rod recall and that has been done. The beginning numbers on the VIN are JT3 and it has a manufactured date of 10/89.

    My question is this, I know about the Techinal Service Bulletin on the head gaskets, but in my llllllooooonnnngggg arduous search; I ran across another forum in which this person discovered a addition to the TSB where Toyota would repair the HG and or replace the engine in some cases. It was called the "Special Service Campaign Program"
    This is the quote from the post "
    Under the Special Service Campaign Program, the head gaskets will be replaced on all the affected vehicles regardless of leakage or not, and there will not be any age, mileage or time restrictions under the Special Service Campaign."

    Here is the catch, your vehicle VIN MUST be listed in the program.
    I have tried .....and failed to find this list;I was kind of hoping that it would SOMEWHERE on the internet.
    I have been quoted prices from $500.00 for labor if I buy the parts, to $3200.00 from Toyota.
    The mechanic in town said it was either a blown gasket or head, with the amount (ALOT) of white smoke/steam, Toyota said the same.
    I found 2 places where I can buy the heads one place $250.00 ea. and the other $325.00 ea..
    I will get her repaired, but I was wondering :

    How do I find this VIN list???

    THANK YOU TO ALL WHO REPLY.
  • anna2776anna2776 Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I am unfortunately in a similar situation and being quoted similar prices on headgasket repair. I was all set to have the job done by someone, but have put it on hold for a few days to figure out if I should bail from the truck altogether. Mine is a 95 with 110K and a blown headgasket, but the truck isn't overheating and my mechanic doesn't think the heads are warped. I'm trying to find out whether I can be reasonably sure I can get a year or two out of the truck (at least ~40,000 miles) if I get the repair done. Also, will sending the heads to a machine shop make it less likely to blow in the future? I've read about the Special Campaign Service Program, and I'm working on figuring out whether it would include my truck or not.

    Any suggestions or opinions would be greatly appreciated!! Thank you:)
  • i have a 92 4runner with a 3.0 automatic and it starts up and runs seemingly perfect but after about 30-45 minutes running, driving or idling, it starts to stumble right off idle. it will idle perfectly but as soon as you touch the throttle it cuts out, it doesnt die but it will cut out and rev over and over again until you let off the pedal. but if you turn it off and let it cool for about 2 hours it starts up and runs fine for about 30 minutes til it starts cutting out again. any ideas would be a great help. Thanks
  • i learned this the hard way too. the antenna can actually come out when fully extended out. it took me a good hour or more to do this my self. so when extended leave the radio on, and unscrew the round nut on the front fender of the passenger side and pull the old one out and take the new one and put down thru the hole and then make sure that it hits the gear to reel it back in. turn the radio off and let it coil back in side and then put the ring back on
  • i have a 95 and the shift lock override is to release the gear shifter. the little plastic top on there comes off and the key will fit in to release the gear shifter lever
  • bbt242bbt242 Posts: 1
    Hello, I've got a 1993 SR5 4runner 4x4 with the V6. I have a squeaking noise coming from the front end every time the wheels go around. I'm thinking it could be coming from the brakes, but I would like to know how to check the front differential fluid and the transfer case fluid. It is probably simple, but I'm having trouble locating the transfer case plug by looking at the owner's manual diagram. Occasionally after long drives the A/T Temp light comes on, so I have to pull over and let it cool down. Any help would be appreciated! :confuse:
  • how the hell do i get to the cig lighter cylinder to replace it
  • When my tank gets to a 1/4 tank and less it starts running so badly it wont pull hills or hardly get up to 25 mph. I dont want to go spend alot of money trying to eliminate the problem one thing at a time so any suggestions on where to start? Such as fuel filter, fuel pump, bad spark plug wires? Possibly transmission? any help would be greatly appreciated. Its a 6 cyl 2 WD with 286,897 miles. I feel like its not geting enough gas at times but sometimes it does it even with a full tank so..... any thoughts? Thanks.

    :sick:
  • Have you got any help with this I have a 92 6cyl. 2WD doing the same thing and would love to hear what worked for you if anything did.
  • runnin4runnin4 Posts: 1
    I just got a 91 4runner the 4x4 not working an I have not idea where to start looking for the problem any one have ideas? :confuse:
  • bandit714bandit714 Posts: 2
    Does any one out there think that the tps sensor is bad that it makes the transmission not to lock up and shift funny
  • yes mine is doing the same thing motor and trany are perfect except the knocking sound which could be your fly wheel i replaced mine and it drove great for a day and then the new one broke im in the process of trying to figure out why if you find out let me know.(the fly whell is cracking around the center )
  • Please I want to know if the 1994 Toyota 4Runner fuel gauge work/indicate when the ignition is off, because my fuel gauge still show the amount of fuel left when the ignition is turned off
  • i want to know if 1994 toyota 4runner has an engine oil light indicator apart from the manual engine oil indicator on top the temprature guage
  • You have to take pretty much the whole dash off but its not that hard. Check this link out, it tell you how to take you stereo out but at the same time I used it to get to the cig lighter. http://www.installdr.com/InstallDocs/Toyota/PDF/869017.pdf Let me know if you need help with wiring it was a little trickey but after messing around with it and blowing a fuse or two I got it. It was ez.
  • calto90calto90 Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I just purchased a 1990 Toyota SR5 4-Runner and I am adding it to my insurance policy. My agent confirms this vehicle has a 4 wheel drive by the VIN number I gave her but it is a 2 wheel drive. (she checked different databases.) I double checked the Vin on the door and the Title and they match.
    How is this possible and can this be a mistake? I don't want to pay the extra insurance and the reason I selected a 2-wheel drive model. Has anyone else experienced this and is there a way to get this corrected? Or am I just out of luck? Thanks for any responses in advance.
    ~Chris
  • kkay2kkay2 Posts: 7
    Hi- just bought a used 4 runner with 190,000 miles and I'd like to fix the rearend sag -- does anyone have a similar problem? Also it runs sluggish but supposedly has a rebuilt engine only 10,000 mile ago.
    any info would be appreciated- thanks.
    -Todd
  • hilosidehiloside Posts: 2
    Hi I've got a weird issue with a 95 SR5 v6.

    So, I left the key in the on position over night and found the battery dead the next morning. Jump and 10Amp battery starter failed to start the vehicle. HOWEVER, while attempting to jump there was a clicking noise under the driver's side dash which cycled every 60 sec, clicking 120 times. Exterior lights flash with the click as well-not headlight or turn signal, the smaller ones on the outside of the headlight.
    The battery would not hold a charge (5yrs old) so I replaced it with brand new battery. The clicking noise and flashing lights persist and there is no response when I turn the key i.e., the starter is not engaging at all.
    *There is an alarm in this vehicle.
    *Radio stopped working 10 days ago.
    Just bought this vehicle, no manual, 30 miles from town.
    Am I hearing the ignition switch click?
    I'm new to Toyotas and any suggestions would be helpful.
    Thanks!
  • hilosidehiloside Posts: 2
    Hey, I'd check see if it has a Catalytic Converter regarding the sluggishness.
    If it does, try ramming a pipe or something through it and clear out all of that stuff or just remove it all together. You should replace it as it is important for emissions but you don't need it to operate the vehicle.
    As for the sag, let me know when you figure that one out cause my '95 has a classic droop in the back :)
    Hope that helps...
  • josfemijosfemi Posts: 3
    1 check that the battery you are using is up to 12V/75amps
    2 you can send in your email and i will forward some manual to you
    3 if your battery is not holding any charge check your alternator if its in good condition
  • The manual says a light on the dash should come on but nothing happens when I put it in 4 high, neutral, or 4 low. A buddy looked at it and said it might be a problem with the vacuum system or possibly the electronics. Has anyone had problems like this?
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