Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Cadillac CTS/CTS-V Transmission Problems



  • I have a 2004 CTS that recently has given me problems. All is fine and then I find that the car will not accelerate quickly. Usually I am moving at over 40 MPH. On a flat surface I can very slowly gain speed, but if I push the accelerator hard, the rpms rev and the service engine warning appears on the warning panel. I can usually turn the engine off and on and the problem disappears. Transmission otherwise is smooth and works fine. Any ideas on what the problem could be?
  • K9WillK9Will Posts: 26
    k9will here when my 04 3.6 w/5l40e auto transmission sits overnite it will hesitate going in gear or you could call it slipping moves but will not pull until it engages in gear, i am trying to find out is it converter leaking fluid out or electrical solinoid not ingaging. or no fluid getting to clutches. I know i don't have the first 5l40e transmission that has done this. can someone explain this flash that they talk about doing to the trans. i can understand it if you can explain what it does THANKS k9will
  • At around 45 and 55 miles per hour my car starts to sort of buck....and when I get to 60 or 65 it smooths out, until I drop back down to 45 again. So I took the car to the Hendrick Cadillac Dealer/Repair center. They stated that the timing belt needs to be replaced. They also did the following:

    - spark plugs replaced
    - replaced rear mount and pinion seal
    - replaced brake caliper
    - oil change

    The day I got my car back I noticed it was still doing the exact same thing, same symptoms and all. I called the repair facility and and spoke to the assistant service manager. I told him that the car drives like I never brought it in. Also it was burning gas like crazy. The service manager scheduled a "ride along" with a mechanic. The caliper was replaced yet the breaking still sounds like crap. The car is still bucking at 45 mph. The mechanic recommended that I bring the car in for a transmission flush $225 and a pad and rotor resurfacing $225.

    A week later the transmission is gone. Car revs but will not move. I called the repair facility and spoke to the service manager. He asked me to check the transmission fluid. I asked him if any of the trouble indication could have been diagnosed as a transmission problem. Of course he said No way. I feel as though my car was sabotaged. Should I take it back to them or to another repair facility?
  • temj12temj12 Posts: 451
    It sounds like the transmission was hunting back and forth between 4th and 5th. 45 is where it changes from 4th to 5th. Why in the heck did they not realize something like that? How could anyone think that the things they did were going to solve the problem you were having. This was just stupidity on their part.
  • Well I am having it towed back to them today. I hope this time they get it right. No matter what complaints I make as a customer, I can't win.
  • The transmission on my CTS suddenly started to slip and at the next traffic light quit completely ... smelt of coolent and "check coolant level" screen illuminated. Towed to dealer and of course found transmission coolant line pulled out of radiator. Dealer advised replacement rad and repairs would be about $2200 but due to the low mileage (70,440 kms) GM had agreed to split bill 50/50 so my bill would be about $1250, assuming no other damage (transmission). Seems like high cost for just a radiator replacement. Does anyone know what average price should be? Why hasn't GM stepped up and admitted they have a problem with these lines which could have the potential of costing owner's big money if transmission has to be replaced?
  • Radiator is $550 bucks and 3 hours labor, so in my neck of the woods about $1000 should cover it.

    Also the diagnosis doesn't seem quite right, since the cooler line to the radiator carries transmission fluid, not engine coolant. The coolant tank and ATF tank in the radiator are two separate compartments. You shouldn't be losing coolant if the trans cooler line pulls out---you should be losing trans fluid. Now sometimes the two tanks can contaminate each other, which is a real mess, and would require complete flushing of the transmission, including torque converter, so that could add some labor---but still, unless there's more to be done on the car, their estimate sounds like you're actually pay 1/2 of a bill that was inflated to 2X.

    Not nice.
  • Thanks Mr. Shiftright...I agree with your comments, however here in Canada, we get shafted good when it comes to car repairs. After requesting breakdown of repair from dealer, I got: radiator $735.00, tranmission cooler lines $450.00, fluids and misc. $100.00, 7 hours labour $700.00 plus taxes for a total of $2250.00 then split 50/50 for $1250.00. This of course is assuming no other damages. The transmission concerns me as by reading other comments, this failure can result in major damage. I too cannot explain why the check coolant level screen illuminated or why the coolant recovery tank was low. Prior to the failure, the car was running at normal temperatures. Being a retired old school mechanic, when cooling lines failed or rusted out, we simply joined the lines with steel tubing or at worse rubber hose and clamps...I guess this isn't done anymore. The dealer still has the car waiting parts, it should be ready next Wednesday. I will keep you informed on the ongoing saga and will pray that my transmission has not gone south!
  • esozesoz Posts: 2
    Hi, I have 2006 cts with the 3.6 litre engine and it has about 102,000kms. Ive only had the car about a year now.

    The other day while I was parking, When I the put the car in reverse there was no response, then also no response in drive. The engine would rev and the car temperature was normal.

    I then noticed the was a huge transmission fluid leak, it went from under my hood to under the car. Its weird because the car was running fine, not slipping gears or anything, then all of a sudden the transmission stopped completely. I'm guessing maybe the houseing, a plug or something came loose or completely ruptured.

    I was just wondering if anyone can help me out with the issue, I'm going to take it to a mechanic soon but just dont wan't to get ripped off and maybe its a simple fix i could do.
  • Gee, a leak that big and that fast suggests to me a ruptured cooling line from the transmission to the radiator.
  • K9WillK9Will Posts: 26
    k9will here i had simular problem but what happens is trans line going into radiator pulls out of radiator and the plastic core separates from the alum. trans cooler inside radiator and the 2 fluids can pour out together causing the need to replace the radiator the lines should be ok but gm knows there is a problem with this design because i have read others with same problem but that is way they need to replace radiator Im hope this helps
  • esozesoz Posts: 2
    oh ok thanks, you have any idea of how much the parts and hours of labour would be approximately?
  • Hard to say until we know what's wrong. But if it was just one busted line, and not radiator damage, it doesn't sound like it would be too expensive---cost of the line + labor plus replacing the fluid.

    If the radiator needed replacing, that gets pricey---about $550 + 3.0 hours labor.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Just an FYI almost all automatics have the trans cooler built into the radiator on modern cars.

  • Just got my CTS back from dealer after cooling line failure,they replaced radiator,both cooling lines and all necessary fluids,total cost including taxes was$2280.00.After my loud verbal.many emails, complaints,(called GM Canada)they agreed as a good will gesture to cut bill in share being...$1138.00.Good that they did that,but bottomline is they know they have a problem and a "no charge" recall is in order.
  • Well given the age of the car, I congratulate you on getting anything out of them---although I have to say, the bill you got originally seems very high.
  • I have a similar problem with my 2006 CTS (automatic 5-speed).

    When accelerating under load, the transmission makes a rattling noise like it is slipping as it changes gears.

    The first time it happened was about 6 months after my first transmission fluid change. The dealer replaced my Torque Converter and the issue went away... until 6 months later. They found the same symptoms as the first time, but decided to not replace the torque converted and gave me a full new transmission as they couldn't find out why it was occurring.

    Now it is 6 months later and it started to the same thing this past Sunday.

    For some reason i think it might be the wrong fluid they used, or the fluid pressure setting is too low (I do mainly city driving, not so much highway driving). The car only has 66,000kms on it.
  • my 2004 is a mess had a crank sensor replaced.tie rod know a bearing and air flow sensor is gone with 66,000 miles.the gas milage sucks.its such a beautiful car very sad selling for 9,000
  • its the air flow sensor its happening to me very slow
Sign In or Register to comment.