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Dodge Sprinter Gas Mileage

24

Comments

  • altered3altered3 Posts: 59
    The most simple method to put single wheel rimes on the rear is go the wrecker and put the compleate unit in, you would need to change the front hubs to match.
    check the weight configuration as to loading limits? with your county clerk, you should be under the two ton mark same as a car such as a DCX 300 that does not add up with residential parking restrictions. the Sprinter is a cargo and passenger van not a truck,:mad:
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    altered3....I have a meeting with the code enforcement on thursday and they said can not park dual wheel on residential property. Could I attack them with the tonnage issue or I am dead in the ground. This is my main transportation and to park it in a place is very difficult to me the less expensive I found is 86.oo a month that is a lot for me. another possibility is to sell it and buy a single wheel one but with the bluetec engine that the new one are coming with will cost a lot of money and the bluetec liquid will cost extra. so what can I do. another possibility is to sell my house and move to a less restricted area around this stupid place.
  • altered3altered3 Posts: 59
    My sprinter is the mid based single wheel unit, I have had a similar issue with parking in resindential streets as to loading limits these vehicles are under the two ton limit and in fact weigh in less than an ordinary vehicle such as Chevrolet caprice Chrysler 300 series or the larger Fords, your direction is to find out weight limits? with out letting on what your up to. its called entrapment but what else can you do! When dealing with county regulations bogged down by red tape. If there is a weight limit = X unknown, to the regulations! If any? or is it because the vehicle is over length, the dual wheel places less pressure on the ground than a single wheel unit as the dual wheel distributes the weight over a larger ground mass area.
    Getting the New Sprinter, not that easy? I only found out yesterday, that there is no AD Blue additives in commercial quanity's in the US yet, but also no oil that will be pure enough to meet the new standards, I guess you can use a lesser 10/40 oil but with a micro filter of 5 they will be blocking filters at twice the rate as its a more contaminated oil in simple english, but the AD-Blu is criticial for the gas emission to eliminate Hydrocarbons Carbon monoxides NOx :confuse: and particulates etc.
    Even the currant Sprinters oils are not 100% compliant
    I have sent a sample of Castrol 10/40 in both standard and synthetic oils, and a sample of Mercedes Benz oil that can only be purchased at the dealer, to see what differnces there are! this test will be a University test somethings not right with the En rateings of 2007 to Euro V standards?
  • sonnywood2sonnywood2 Posts: 38
    just did my first trip without towing a trailer. 400 miles. 300 highway and 100 city and 2 lane mix. stayed under 2000 rpm on take off and about 65 mph on the highway and got 26.5 mpg. was using hess low sulfer highway diesel 500 ppm. made my day. got 7000 miles on it and still got 5000+ till service is due.
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    altered3... You said that your sprinter is under 2ton loading limits, is this the weight of the van or the load that you can put in. My Sprinter weight 9990 lbs empty.
  • jim314jim314 Posts: 491
    From Edmunds Sprinter 2500 high roof passenger van

    Exterior
    Length: 197 in. Width: 76.1 in.
    Height: 102 in. Wheel Base: 118 in.
    Ground Clearance: 7.4 in. Curb Weight: 4706 lbs.
    Gross Weight: 8550 lbs.

    Exterior
    Length: 225 in. Width: 76.1 in.
    Height: 103.6 in. Wheel Base: 140 in.
    Ground Clearance: 8.3 in. Curb Weight: 5058 lbs.
    Gross Weight: 8550 lbs.

    Length: 263 in. Width: 76.1 in.
    Height: 103.6 in. Wheel Base: 158 in.
    Ground Clearance: 8.3 in. Curb Weight: 5305 lbs.
    Gross Weight: 8550 lbs.

    2500 Sprinter high roof cargo van

    Exterior
    Length: 197 in. Width: 76.1 in.
    Height: 102 in. Wheel Base: 118 in.
    Ground Clearance: 7.4 in. Curb Weight: 4648 lbs.
    Gross Weight: 8550 lbs.

    Exterior
    Length: 225 in. Width: 76.1 in.
    Height: 103.6 in. Wheel Base: 140 in.
    Ground Clearance: 8.3 in. Curb Weight: 4990 lbs.
    Gross Weight: 8550 lbs.
  • bspertybsperty Posts: 20
    I just purchased a 06 2500 .It did not come with the engine oil monitoring system. I see what looks like a sensor on the bottom of the oil pan.The dealer says they know nothing about hooking up that option. Does anyone know how hard it is. I really like the mileage 20 mpg , towing a trailer sometimes, and quality of the vehicle. I hope to learn much from you guys here.
  • jim314jim314 Posts: 491
    I know you want to have the oil monitoring system working, but in case you can't you may be able to approximate it by keeping some records yourself--mainly the number of gallons of fuel consumed since the last change.

    I think the oil monitoring system uses various inputs and an algorithm to estimate the condition of the oil based on the demands made on the oil. The main inputs would have to be number of gallons of fuel burned since last oil change, average and maybe peak oil temperatures, maybe cumulative time under heavy accelerator pressure.

    That is I don't think the monitoring system directly determines the buildup of combustion products in the oil, although it could estimate viscosity by oil pressure in a certain specific part of the engine.
  • ahp691ahp691 Posts: 5
    I have the assyt computer in mine as well. It is supposed to tell you when to change the oil on the driving conditions. I have had this truck in to the freightliner dealer for service 4 times and they are not compatant (can't spell) enough to reset it properly. each time I tell them what they should set it to, but they are to dumb to do it right. the first time they set it to 3000 miles. A week later it tells me I need an oil change second time they set it at 10,000 miles. etc. they are supposed to take the current mileage and add 10000 to it and put that in. Unfortunately there are not many dealers that have the proper computer to use on the sprinter. On another subject, I just had to do a 4 wheel brake job, it needed 2 rotors and pads for all 4 wheels. at 16,000 miles. this vehicle cost an awful lot to be this lightly built. I don't see it holding up. Macpherson strut suspension just seems so wrong on a box truck. seems to have a lot of frame flex as well. we'll see I guess.
  • bspertybsperty Posts: 20
    My widshield has cracked from the driver side 4 inches up from the bottom corner.
    I saw another Sprinter in a prking lot today with the same crack.
    Anyone else?
  • i have a 2006 2500 140wb shc bone stock with 16 inch rims and i've noticed that my speedometer is steadily 2-3 mph above the vehicles actual speed. i'm able to meter these figures because my local law enforcement agency has been kind enough to place radar machines all over town for everyone to enjoy. my other cars have been spot on accurate and i spoke with local cop whom explained to me the extreme calibrationing these machines go through before they go into the public. i may be wrong here, and if i am please correct me, but if if your car is traveling 25 mph for one hour burns just one gallon of fuel and the speedometer is reading (and recording) 28 mph then your apparent fuel milege is going to be 28 mpg when actually your MPG is only 25. so this means that... i either have defective speedometer and must return to the dealership... or the local cops bought 15 broken radar machines and it's slipped by so many people and i'm the first to notice the mistake or, just maybe all you folks that are getting 21 mpg are actually getting 18 mpg....

    my 97 powerstroke diesel e-350 gets 18 mpg on the highway loaded. my sprinter gets 21 mpg loaded. my PSD E-350's speedometer is accurate as per the radar machines (as compared to a 2003 honda, 97 s-10 pu and 1993 geo) so does this mean that if my speedometer is 3 MPH off my sprinter it is actually getting 18 MPG-- same as my ford diesel? hmmm? i guess i spent and extra $10k for a lighter duty, gutless van? not to mention it's fancy computer controlled assyt system that can count how many miles you need go before you're next service but can't figure out how fast the vehicle is going at 30 mph without a 10% error (radar says 27, speedo says 30. i did this five time one night)

    don't get me wrong... i like this van a lot... but the level of quality that i thought i bought is just not what it's priced to be. my dealer totally misrepresented this vehicle to me and i'm upset about that. i ve been to the dealer six times in the last two months only to have the dealer just finally tell that they don't have anyone that really knows about these vans and can't fix my problems (2 broken lumbars, un-fixable side and rear door rattling, trans vibrations) and that my next service is going to cost me $500. hooraay five star chrysler dealers.

    please, if anyone can get a chance do your own experiments with this please do. with a buddy's car, cell phones and cruise control you should be able to compare it with any other modern car.

    any comments on this?????
  • this maybe happening to some of you out there so i tell you about my fix. early in the ownership of my van i noticed the side door was rattling. after 3 trips to the dealer they kind of fixed it and told me that the push-rod plunger for the power locks had come loose and was rattling. OK, the noise subsided a little but the door still made some noise. so i return to the dealer and they spend a whole day doing adjustments and it goes away for 3 days. finally i return and they said they're was nothing they could do. so, i told 'em, "if i'd run my business they way they do, by not knowing anything about the products they're selling, i couldn't afford their van."

    anyhow, so i decide to fix it myslef and it turns out that there are two metal pintles on the leading edge of the door that align into two sockets that cause the door to be guided and held in place when it's closed. the solution is to put a little duct tape (just one layer, maybe two) around the pintle and dampens the vibration rattle and reduces the tolerance. the door is now totally quiet. six days of down town at the dealer then fixed in 2 minutes by an graphic artist.... WTF???
  • jim314jim314 Posts: 491
    Rather than just checking your speedometer, you should check your odometer by driving a known distance and comparing the change in the odometer. Depending on how these two are connected, the speedometer might real high by say 10%, but the odometer might be accurate to within say 1%. I say might be; you have to check it.

    I think that errors in the speedometer and odometer are usually a constant factor rather than a constant increment that you add or subtract. That is I think that, just for example, if the speedo reads 30 mph when you are actually travelling 33 mph, then it will read 60 when you are actually going 66, etc. (So that in this case true speed = indicated speed x 1.10.

    I have heard that by law speedometers are allowed to be off by a much higher factor than one would imagine. I have heard that the speedo can read plus or minus 10% of the true speed, but you would need to check this.

    I am under the impression that the odometer is much more accurate than this. Are these 16 inch wheels the stock wheels and are the tires stock? Changing the wheels and tires or even just the tires to a different size can give a larger or smaller diameter and circumference wheel. Usually people change to a larger diameter wheel/tire and it they don't change the speedo and odo calibration then they will be going both faster and farther than the speedo and odo, respectively, indicates. That will mean that their true fuel mpg will be higher than they calcluate from the uncorrected odometer readings.

    But if your odo is following your speedo

    True speed = Indicated speed x (27/30) = Indicated speed x 0.90, then your distances would follow True dist = Indicated dist x 0.90, and your true mpg would be given by true mpg = 0.90 x indicated.

    Check your odometer, both trip odo and regular odo on a section of roadway whose distance you know.
  • i have a hard time believing that mercedes benz would make and inaccurate speedometer and wholly accurate odometer in the same unit. how could a speedometer determine velocity and at the same time the odometer determines distance traveled at the same RPM (shaft rpm) and it not show the error. so anyways, engineering speculation aside... let's say that this may be the case... the speedometer is wrong and odometer is right (or may be right). hard to believe VDO would let this slip by or better yet, i'd love to hear a BS-covered technical explanation why they meant to have an inaccrate speedometer but an accurate odometer...

    it really seems funny to me that in such a controverisal fuel situation that we live in today with hig consuption commercial vehicles and SUV's, that an error like this, which could perhaps help the consumer mis-calculate his or hers vehicles fuel consuption, would go unoticed.

    the main selling point for these vans in our current economy is their apparent miser-like FUEL CONSUMPTON. at 3.00+ a gallon working vehicles are under a never before felt scrutiny due to the soaring operating cost of cents per mile. my wife doesn't think about how much her honda cost per mile... but i must think about how much my van cost per mile so i can adjust my prices to offset my overhead and not lose money (remember making money is why i bought this van). lets be honest... sprinters are working cars and they are nearly twice the cost of competiton but they boast a huge fuel savings marketing gimmick that, in the long run, will save you money. it hard to determine how much it'll save becuase of the speculation of future fuel prices. and i'm sure not all too many civillian sprinter owners out there have sat down with calculator and figured out how much this little van is saving them... bottom line... no one likes to pay 3 bucks for something they paid a dollar for three years ago. fuel price inflation is bringing mental havoc onto the mind of the fuel consumer and causing panic and wild specualtion by those small business folk who work their cars for living. this is changing the type of car the consumer believes they need to invest in order to stay competitive. when i bought mine i asked my self will a 14 mpg gas van be as competitve as the more fuel economic 22 mpg diesel van. i'm sure every sprinter owner out there who bought these spriter vans for their businesses thought of this and that's why they decide to leave the tradtional van market (v-8 FordChevGMC) which has worked extermely well for 30 years.

    car companies realize all of this now, finally. most of us sprinter owners are happy with the apparent milege and don't suspect a thing because that's what dodge said it would do. it tells us what we want to hear.

    so why wouldn't chrysler fudge the numbers a bit. playing with numbers is not new practice in the corporate world and seldom goes noticed.

    most of these vans are fleet vehicles. when it comes time to do the books the bean counters are gonna look at fuel consumed and miles covered and they'll decide if this new vehicle is saving them money. they'll do this by taking an odometer reading and fuel quantity used. a driver for DHL or UPS isn't gonna email the big boss man and bring it to his attention that the speedometer is inaccurate and that the new MPG figures is bogus. shoot no! he could care less. and a lot of the folks who buy these cars for their businesses aren't driving 'em personally and or will never discover this error. in fact, i could beleive that only a small single digit percentage will ever notice the speedometer error because, well, shoot... why would this super expensive piece of equipment have an inaccurate speedometer in this day and age... hey, it's mercedes-benz right! and i'm sure an overwhelming amount of sprinter owners out there are satisfied and happy with looking at the milege and fuel consummed and reading 21-22-23-24 mpg and leave it at that.

    the first thing i learned when i enrolled at my alma mater business school at ol Hard Knox Univ is when something seems to good to be true it's usually not.

    all things aside it does get good milege... but does it get what it said it advertised, really? if that sale brouchure said "19 mpg average" and not "22 MPG average" maybe more of us out there wouldn't have digged so deep in our pockets to buy it. a ford econoline 150 with a v-6 gets up 18 mpg on the hwy and is as equally stout and only cost $20,000. the fact that it got over 20 MPG's was the selling point for me to spend an EXTRA $10,000.... does it really do it, hmmm i thought it did, but now i'm wondering.

    this definately wouldn't be the first time big business tried to screwed the little guy by misrepresenting a product. the sad thing is that what they're doing (or letting happen) is probably totally legal because of some ancient US speedometer calibration law. it's funny how us americans never realized where getting screwed until after we get screwed. wonder if DR Z is out there and will vouch for his product!!!!

    and by the way @ $3.35 for fuel a 14mpg van will get 24 cents a mile and the 22 mpg van will be 15 cents a mile... at that rate it would take 111k miles to make up the cost difference of the $10000 premiuim for the sprinter... if it gets 19 mpg true, then it would be 17 cents a mile and it would take 200k miles to make up the difference... and that's not taking into account the increased cost to maintain this thing over a regualar van... but of course as fuel prices rise the difference in cent per mile will be greater and the milege gap will close so... i'm anxious to see what happens.
  • The only oil I have found that is currently compliant is the Amsoil Synthetic See the link below. I shows it meets the new MB 288.3 specs.

    http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/deo.aspx
  • I recently drove by one of those speed limit/radar machines. (As was
    stated here in several post) the machine revealed that my Spinter
    (118,Low) was doing 35 mph while my speedometer showed me to be doing
    38 mph. Hmmmm.

    Being an automotive mechanic here in the northeast I went to the
    garage and picked up my Snap-On MT-2500 Scan Tool. I then went home
    and picked up my handheld GPS that I use hiking.
    I plugged the scan tool into the OBDII socket and turned on my GPS. I
    then fetched up my Wife and we headed for the highway. With my Wife at
    the wheel I setup the scan tool and GPS on the dash in the passengers
    seat and told the driver to bring it up to 60 MPH.

    Guess what!

    The only thing out of calibration turned out to be the speedometer.

    The PCM MPH PID in the scan tool matched the GPS down to the tenth.

    The speedometer is an analog device that converts digital infomation
    from the PCM to something that makes the speedo needle move.
    Apparently, it's not very accurate. Which is the case with a lot of
    vehicles I'm sure. But the odometer is not effected in this way. In
    fact, the instrument cluster is simply a "dumb terminal" in most
    modern vehical. If you replace it you will not change your odometer
    reading because this reading is calculated and stored in the PCM.

    What a relief. I've been watching my mileage figures using the
    odometer as a constant. And now I know that the figure is correct. But
    the speedometer is advanced by 3.5 mph at 60 mph.

    This doesn't bother me in the least unless of course, the gas gauge is
    also wrong.
  • kenbakerkenbaker Posts: 239
    Yes,
    the fuel gauge has many more miles in the top 1/4 tank and second quarter tank than it has in the last two quarters...

    Also have easily put 26.5 gallons in a 26.4 gallon tank and I was NOT out of fuel at the time...

    the Speedometer error seems so weird because it does not seem to be proprtional (always about 2-3 MPH off). It does NOT seem to be 1 MPH off at 20, 2 at 40, 3 at 80. How about yours? At 82-83 the GPS says 79 MPH (my TOP speed).

    Got to 85 on the speedo one time when it overshot the mark... never have gotten close to 90 (top speed in manual)!

    KenB :shades:
  • Has anybody an idea as to how far one can go when the fuel light comes on. I have been sweating a few times thinking I was going to run out,( I hear that is not a good thing). The needle was bottomed out. When I fueled up I still had 2.5 gallon left in the tank.

    My speedo also is 3 mph off. I just rely on the GPS. I have hit a top end of 80. To get more I would have to be going down hill, off a cliff with a large sail. Boy I hate getting stuck in the fast lane and I got nothing left, and can't get over to the right lane.

    Tom :D
  • kenbakerkenbaker Posts: 239
    Tom,
    The dreaded Yellow Triangle supposedly comes on with 2.8 gallons left in the tank (up to about 60 miles of wiggle room for my Sprinter at 20.nuttin' MPG, no A/C). Still haven't run out at 537+ miles (should do about 528 at 26.4 Gal. and 20.0001 MPG.) I always try to get fuel by 500 miles, less in the Summer when I might use both A/C units.

    I am learning to just set back and let the really fast lane alone... but it is hard not to go there when the right lane is going S l O W w w w w.

    KenB
  • remember with diesl that milage gets better over
    time,it can take a good 20k miles for these engines
    to break in
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