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Buick Regal Brake Problems

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Comments

  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,633
    1. Remove 2/3 of brake fluid from master cylinder reservoir.
    2. Raise and support vehicle.
    3. Mark relationship of wheel to axle flange, then remove wheel and tire assembly.
    4. Remove bolt and washer attaching cable support bracket to caliper body, Fig. 2.
    5. Remove sleeve bolt and pivot caliper assembly up, Fig. 3. Do not completely remove caliper assembly body.
    6. Remove outboard and inboard shoe and linings and two pad clips from caliper support.
    7. Using a suitable spanner type tool in piston slots to turn piston assembly and thread it into caliper body assembly.
    8. After bottoming piston, lift inner edge of boot next to piston assembly and press out any trapped air.
    9. Ensure slots in end of piston are positioned as shown in Fig. 4 before pivoting caliper body assembly down over shoe and linings in caliper support. Use suitable spanner type tool to turn piston as necessary.
    10. Install pad clips and outboard and inboard shoe and linings in caliper support. Ensure wear sensor is on outboard shoe positioned downward at leading edge of rotor during forward wheel rotation.
    11. Pivot caliper body assembly down over shoe and lining assemblies being careful not to damage piston boot on inboard shoe.
    12. After caliper body is in position, recheck installation of pad clips. If necessary, use a small screwdriver to reseat or center pad clips on support abutments.
    13. Install sleeve bolt and torque to 20 ft. lbs.
    14. Install cable support bracket and torque bolt to 32 ft. lbs.
    15. Install wheels and tires aligning previous marks, then lower vehicle.
    16. Apply approximately 175 lbs. of force to brake pedal three times to seat shoe and linings against rotor.
  • I have the same problem. The brake light by the spoiler comes on but the lowers brake lights don't come on.

    Can anyone help me?
  • It could be in the turn signal switch. On our '94 Regal, if you pull the turn signal toward you slightly (stopping short of switching to high beam headlights) as you press the brake pedal, the main brake lights come on. I can't offer any tips to disassemble the steering column to fix or replace the switch...haven't tried it yet.
  • armesarmes Posts: 32
    I have worked on several Regal ( 1996 ) which had premature wear and bad rotors on one or both sides. From what I have been able to determine, the problem lies with the design of the caliper slide system. All problems I discovered were related to the top caliper slide bolts. This is the one which is covered by the cap and is inset into the caliper.

    Every vehicle which had problems had locked slides due to the top bolt being bent where the threads and shank of the bolt intersect. This bolt is too small to handle any lock up of the brakes and is even more fragile when the brakes are applied and the wheel hops on a rough road or pot hole. The sheer force of heavy brakeing appears to bend this top bolt which, once bent a little, becomes weaker with every braking and bends more until locking the slide.

    I highly recommend replaceing all bolts when replaceing the rear pads. ;)
  • can anyone tell me if there a sequence to follow to bleed 4 wheel disc brakes not abs i can't seem to get a pedal after bleeding them . maybe there's an order of bleeding like r-rear, then l-front, then left rear and so forth ??? please help
  • I had complete brake job (new pads & rotors all 4 wheels) after aprox 1500 mi
    experienced a bad pulsation. Rotors were removed and turned, it was ok for about
    500 mi then started all over. Tech says it is the front wheel brg. is slightly loose
    and this is causing the problem. He says this is a expensive job because it has
    ABS. Help
  • I own a 2004 Regal GS with about 60K miles. I need to know if I can repair the device inside the brake fluid reservoir that triggers the low level switch or if I can replace the reservoir itself without removing the master cylinder. thanks in advance for any help.
  • I have replaced the brake lines on my car and theres still a problem? Brake fluid is still leaking somewhere. I dont know where from though. It goes through a full cylinder every other day. I have not yet jacked it up to find problem. Before i do i would like to know if someone has any advice for me on what to look for or what to fix. oh there is no pressure when i press on the breaks, dont even build up from pumping.
  • have you fixed your issue yet as far as the turn signal. ive read your post and went outside and it was exactly what you said. if thats the case do i have to have the turn signal replaced or can it been repaired?
  • Yes That is correct
  • When I depress the brake pedal, where the rod goes through the firewall, there is an audible "click", and the pedal drops about an inch or so...The brakes still seem to function well after that point, but the pedal does not come back up, leaving the brake light on. I have to hook it with my toe, and return it to it's starting position(again, audible "click" or "pop"). Has anyone ever encountered this symptom, and if so what was the cause?
    Thank you.
  • If you'll go to an auto parts store, they normally will read your codes for you with a scan tool...that'll let you know exactly where the code is coming from.
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