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Cadillac DTS Electrical Issues

24

Comments

  • I have been experiencing continuing electrical problems with my 2006 DTS. At three months, the AC failed. The dealer told me that it was working again when the technician checked it out, and no problems could be found with the system. At six months, the car was stone dead sitting in my garage. ( I drive it everyday). Got it jumped by AAA and took it to the dealer. After three days, they couldn't find anything wrong--but replaced the battery. At 10,000 miles, the car stopped in its tracks on the way to work. On star also failed. Got it restarted after a five minute delay. Took it to the dealer again (where it is now). No dash lights, and the doors wouldn't unlock when I got to the dealorship. Also the gas mileage is terrible. Any other experiences like mine???
  • I have good news. My 2006 dts car wouldn't start again the other day and the service writer found a TSB that addresses my problem. It is technical service bulletin number 1906368. My vin matches up to cars that need to have the body control module reprogrammed.
    Give this info. to your dealer. This hopefully should fix your problems.
  • My one side of the rear heated seat won't turn on. The rear power control module(behind seatback), both top and bottom seat cushion elements, the LR door module and heater switch on/off button test ok. Power in feed wires (orange) and fuses are ok. Power is on to the rear control power module at the blue plug-in connector( orange wires behind seat back). Still no current flow to either of the elements. I'm pretty electrical but I'm stumped here. Right side of rear seat heater circuit works fine. Tried checking grd distribution but it does seem to be grounded ok.
  • conkedconked Posts: 14
    Back in December I gave the dealer the TSB number you suggested. He scratched his head and said something like, "this might apply...we'll check it out." When I got the car back the repair statement says "TSB 1906368-program remote entry key system to body control module and reprogram tire sensors to body module."
    I don't know if that had anything to do with the dead battery but we've been to Dallas twice and Denver once since then and have had absolutely no more dead battery issues.
  • conkedconked Posts: 14
    I had front seat heater problems with an earlier DTS, a 2000 model. In one case the seat element went open but I assume you checked for that. In the other cases, twice, the module was bad. If you have power to the module when the seat heater is ON and the element has continuity but no current flow, then given everything else you've checked, the problem almost has to be in the module, doesn't it? Fortunately, our 2006 DTS has not had this problem. Good luck with sleuthing this problem.
  • definitely not rear seat power module as left and right can be interchanged (so can L and R rear door modules) and still no power flow to left seat heaters. I did a complete interchange of the modules and both work fine on opposite side of car. I would like to know color code of wire(s) that needs to be "hot" to turn elements on at the power module end. Orange is needed but there must be some others. I am thinking of a wiring break in the harness is possible.
  • conkedconked Posts: 14
    Are the color codes on the left and right rear sides the same? If so, and the R side is working, you could check the voltages on the R and see how they differ from the L under HIGH, MED, LOW, and OFF conditions.
    A break in the wiring harness is a possibility but usually don't see that until the car gets much older and the insulation gets stiff...usually breaks frist occur where the harness exits the door and enters the body---you probably already know all this.
    I've also seen corrosion inside a connector cause failures but usually exercising the plug fixes that, at least temporarily. You did say you checked the continuity of the in-seat element, right?
  • Problem solved, break in wire (green) from rear backrest control power module to LR door window module. rigged jumper wire from door to rear seat connector C306 and everything powers up fine now
  • conkedconked Posts: 14
    I spoke too soon. Wednesday July 30 we drove the car for an hour or so and parked it at 1 p.m. in our garage. At 6 p.m. we were planning to leave and the battery was dead again. Cadillac Roadside Assistance said that no dealers have technician service any more in the St. Louis metro area and all they could do is call someone to jump start the car or tow it to the dealer. I jumped it myself on Thursday morning, drove to the dealer and they're telling me once again that they can find nothing wrong with any systems or with the battery. This is very disturbing. :confuse:
  • It isn't as if I've never worked on cars. In fact, I've worked on them since the 1960s, even changing out engines, and rebuilding transmissions. I just thought that a Cadillac service facility should be able to find and repair whatever was causing this problem. But after the last incident I decided to roll up my sleeves and go to work. I thought that I might find corrosion under a crimp hidden by heat-shrink so I decided to solder all the cables coming off the battery and going to the under seat and under hood fuse modules. In the process, what I found, was a bad ground at the floor under the back seat. The ground cable, which is common to all the electrical systems in the car, is attached to the floor with a plated screw, but in this case the screw mates with a threaded hole that had the same paint job as the outside of the car, and the ground terminal sits on the painted floor with no "star washer" under it to bite into the chassis. Checking from the battery end of the cable to ground points around the car gave ohmmeter readings all over the map. So I ground the paint off the chassis under the ground terminal and put it back together with a big star washer under the terminal. I'm hoping this will solve the problem.
  • My mother's 2007 DTS has not experieced any problems with it starting, but she has experieced it cutting off in traffic (!) at least 5 times. After the first 3 tim;es, the dealer kept it for 10 days only after my mother said she did not want it back - they did not find anything wrong, except that some codes were missing related to the brakes???? (GM even came to "investigate", but refused to talk to my mother!) They fixed the codes, then she took the care in about 3 months later for the regular oil/maintenace and to have them look at some vibrating that she was feeling in the front end, and they discovered that the brake pads were worn. They fixed them, but then she experieced the car cutting off while driving 2 more times. The dealer and GM have not resolved the problem and basically tried to make it sound like it is something my Mother is doing while driving??? My parents have been Cadillac owners for 50+ years, but this is the last one! To make matters worse, the salesman talked her into leasing the car and she has no options until the lease is up! So much for customer service!
  • Hello, I know the exact part that you will need to resolve your problem. It's called a Crankshaft sensor. I have a 2003 DTS and this was happening to me sporadically usually at stop lights or when I would come to a complete stop. Lindsey's Cadillac, which is the dealer in my area, could not find the problem. Fortunately a friend of mines had the same symptoms with his DTS and he visited a Caddy forum in which someone told him to get a Crankshaft sensor. I believe the part was roughly $60 bucks. I paid $70 or so in labor. Never had the issue since. I didn't even take it to the dealer to replace the part, I used a local Midas in the area that knew GM cars and they replaced it for nearly a fraction of what the dealer was charging. Good luck, and I am 100% sure this will resolve your Mom's DTS issue.
  • Thank you, Caddylvr. The car is in the shop right now - they still haven't found anything. I will pass on the info. Much thanks.
    Sharon O.
  • My 2008 Cad. DTS has a humming noise when the car is shut off. I suspect that it has something to do with the reomote outside mirrors. recently I see what appear to be hydraulic fluid staind near the mirror on the passenger side. Dealer is clueless.
  • vic10vic10 Posts: 188
    Here's a new one for you: Saw a streaming leak in my driveway just after pulling into the garage. Then noted a puddle under the car: Red, oily liquid. Called the dealer who had it towed in. The fluid was from the power steering. Per the maintenance write-up: A return line had a hole burned in it from contact with a battery cable. Wonder how many of the dead battery episodes are due to the battery grounding out to some part of the car.....
  • acp60acp60 Posts: 6
    I have a Cadillac 2006 DTS. If I don't drove the
    car for 7 days the batter dies. I have had 3 new batteries installed, numerous visits to the dealer and each time I get the same answer, "we checked everything and we don't find any problems". After reading all the the similar complaints on line how is it that GM can't come
    up with a resolution. Plus the battery is located under the rear passenger seat. Brilliant
    design. Is there any reason the tax payers should loan GM any money. They need to be allowed to fail and thus survival of the fitist
  • cadymancadyman Posts: 3
    I HAVE 2006 DTS BOUGHT IT USED. HAD 17000MLS ON IT. I HAVE HAD A DEAD BATTERY PROBLEM WITH THIS CAR SINCE JAN 2008 TO THE RECENT ONE ON JULY 3 2009.THEY PUT NEW BATTERY IN FIRST TIME CHECKED EVERYTHING OUT ,SAID THEY COULDN'T FIND NO PROBEMS.SECOND TIME THEY SAID THEY FOUND LOSE GROUND WIRE,(I DON'T THINK SO). THEYCHECKED EVERYTHING AGAIN.JULY 2009 HAD TO CALL ROAD SIDE FOR JUMP. I DIDN'T BRING CAR IN YET. HAS ANYONE HAD THIS PROBLEM WITH THERE DTS
  • acp60acp60 Posts: 6
    Your problems sound very familiar to mine. I have
    an '06 DTS and went through the same episodes. I submitted my problems for arbitration under the lemon law, but GM went into bankruptcy. Now I am back where I started. GM needs to work on their QA
    if they expect to survive.
  • chefcctchefcct Posts: 7
    I had your exact problem last year. The service writer found a TSB that addresses your problem. It is technical service bulletin number 1906368. My vin matches up to cars that need to have the body control module reprogrammed.
    Give this info. to your dealer. This hopefully should fix your problems. It fixed mine!
  • chefcctchefcct Posts: 7
    I had your exact problem last year. The service writer found a TSB that addresses your problem. It is technical service bulletin number 1906368. My vin matches up to cars that need to have the body control module reprogrammed.
    Give this info. to your dealer. This hopefully should fix your problems. It fixed mine!
  • kenb757kenb757 Posts: 149
    So any pending buybacks under the lemon law are no longer valid if started or settled before Friday? I know the accident lawsuits that were placed before bankruptcy, both settled and pending are now against the "bad" GM. And good luck in that, as there are very few assets there. Wonder if you can withdraw and subsequently refile?
  • I have a 2002 dts with 60000 miles that I purchased a month ago with a clean car fax. I drove it for a month problem free.One day the car would not , start so I jump started it and got it to the mechanic . He said I need a new battery He installed it and on the way home I stopped at a store when I tried to start it it would not start so I jumped it and got it back to mechanic Any Ideas as to why it wont start even with a new battery ?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,986
    So you say he put in a new battery, you drove a short distance, it would not start, BUT you were able to jump start it?

    Then the new battery isn't any good or the cables are corroded or loose.

    If you had a bad alternator, even a jump start wouldn't have gotten you going very far.

    Maybe he didn't charge the battery properly prior to selling it to you.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • conkedconked Posts: 14
    I had a similar problem with a 2006 DTS and found the trouble to be a poor ground from the negative side of the battery at the floor under the back seat. The floor and the threaded hole where the cable is attached had the same paint finish as the exterior of the vehicle so the ground would come and go. This also caused strange charging voltage fluctuations on the instrument panel battery voltage indicator. Once I cleaned the paint off the floor and put a star washer under the cable end, the problem disappeared.
  • Bingo a frayed ground wire led to some grounding issues. ty fixed and back on the road
  • conkedconked Posts: 14
    Anyone with a similar problem--if the ground cable looks good you might also check the connection at the engine module, under the hood. A mechanic friend of mine works for a local Buick/GMC dealership and indicated that they occasionally see corrosion at the engine module (positive) cable from the battery. Cut back the heat shrink at both ends of the cable (under the seat and under the hood) and be sure there is no corrosion under the heat shrink or under the terminal connections. On my 2006 DTS one end of the positive cable was crimped, the other end crimped and soldered. The ground was crimped and soldered at the battery end but not at the chassis end. I ended up soldering all of the cables at both ends: ground cable, engine module cable, and the smaller body module (under the back seat) cable. Never had a problem after doing all that.
  • CADDYMAN HERE I HAVE BEEN DEALING WITH THE SAME PROBLEM SINCE JAN 2007. DEAD BATTERY THREE TIMES. I WENT TO A LOCAL DEALER THE 3 TIMES IT HAPPENED. I DECIDED TO TAKE THE CAR BACK WHERE I BOUGHT IT.AND LET THEM CHECK IT OUT.THEY REPAIRED SEAT MODULES. REPROGRAMMED DOOR MODULE AND RAN UPDATE. THEY SAID THEY WERE NOT SET WRIGHT.ITS ONLY BEEN A MONTH. WILL SEE WHAT HAPPENS.
  • :cry: 2006 DTS Performance with 11,600 miles. Went into the store and came out turned key to start position and light on dash went on and nothing happened--car would not start, no clicking, no nothing. Half of the electrical seemed to work. Door locks and windows would not work nor keyless remote. Dash was displaying messages such as service parking assist, service air bag, left rear door open. Tow truck was called and battery was in fine condition, DTS towed to Cochran Cadillac Pittsburgh. While removing car from flatbed tow driver turned key and vehicle started. Dealer checked it out and said there was a loose ground.

    I took vehicle home all fine for about 30 miles running around town. Park in drive way on 10 degree slop and came back in the morning turned key and nothing happened same as before. Tried several starts within an hour after--nothing. Tow truck arrived again and this time driver tried starting the car--and it started!! Not consistent. Took vehicle to dealer and all the bad codes are back again (cleared on the first repair) and they are stumped because the vehicle starts and they cannot duplicate the problem. Any suggestions...............
  • I had the exact same issue several times on my 06 DTS. Here is what I did that seemed to have solved the problem. Disconnect cable from battery to ground. Clean paint off floor around ground connection. Cut heat shrink away from negative and both positive cables at battery, other end of positive cable at module under rear seat, and positive cable at engine module (passenger side under hood). Soldered the crimped connection at each of these cable ends and taped the heat shrink back on (this requires a pretty stout soldering iron because the cables are rather large). Clean all connections with contact cleaner. Reinstall all the positive cables and reinstall ground cable at floor with a star washer under the cable. After doing all these things I never had the problem again. :)
  • Dealer claims this is not the problem and that General Motors tech. is now saying it is somehow tied into the Onstar module. They are going to disconnect the module and want me to drive the vehicle, and if it corrects the problem they will replace the Onstar module. If not it is back to the drawing board. The problem is, as you know, if the vehicle does not start it must be towed each and every time--a jump does absolutely nothing as the battery is in great shape!
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