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Cadillac DTS Electrical Issues

13

Comments

  • I suppose the dealer sometimes knows what might cause a problem because they are exposed to more vehicles than just the one that you (or I) drive. My dealer re-programmed the remote key entry system and did something with the OnStar module attempting to find my problem, but these "fixes" didn't solve the problem. I would think that if a module was malfunctioning it would drain the battery, but that was never the case--like you, the battery would magically come back to life at full charge. At one time I thought perhaps the battery had a cracked intercell connector. I'm still not sure this wasn't part of the problem. The other symptom I had that you might check: my battery charging voltage, as indicated on the Driver Info Center under the speedo, would constantly vary. Sometimes it would charge at as much as 15.9 volts, other times only 12.3 and it was never constant...always moving around up and down. After the ground cable fix, it was steady as a rock at 13.8, just like every other car I've ever owned. A friend of mine who works at a local Buick dealership said they've had some similar problems with Lucernes.
  • Thank you for your many emails re: problems with the caddy DTS. After six trips to the most unhelpful dealer (Coleman Cadillac, Bethesda, MD) where they blamed it on Onstar and finally on my Mother, she went to a lawyer. He sent a letter to GM and their customer dis-service person contacted my mother via phone and email and basically said it was her fault. No wonder they went bankrupt!

    Through the lawyer, Mom found an excellent independent mechanic, Gili's Automotive, Rockville, MD. Gil did a complete diagnostic workup, including checking out the Onstar program. He said there were "several" computer updates from the manufacturer that had not been downloaded by the dealer. There were also some problems with the electrical system not being grounded correctly. Needless to say, Gili's fixed the problem - she has not had any problems since. She also takes the car to Gili's for regular maintenance as the cadillac dealer is totally unreliable.
    Sharon26
  • effeeeffee Posts: 8
    I noticed recently that the lights inset in the front bumper do not come on when the headlights are turned on. Is there something you have to do to turn them on or is it an electrical failure? Thanks in dvance if anyone can help.
  • Previously posted messages no crank/no start. Dealership and GM believed the problem to be a module. I kept telling them it sounds like a grounding issue. Eventually, the electrical would die completely while driving and then 10 seconds later electrical would come back on. No speedometer, no power windows, no power locks, no gas guage reading, etc. Display would flash all kinds of crazy messages.

    Apprently they listened and looked harder and found under the steering wheel lower dash a wire had its insulation rubbed through and was grounding. Apparently the wires are not routed correctly causing rubbing. Apparently Cadillac DTS 2006 has had prior problems with this (they found out from GM after mine was disagnosed) however there is no TSB at this point. Apparently there should be at this point.

    They fixed the problem and now I am happy. I was losing my mind with the intermittent problem. Good luck with your problem.
  • 2006 DTS REMOTE STARTER DOSN'T WORK ANYMORE HAD ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS IN THE PAST 2 YRS ANY ONE HAVE THIS PROBLEM.
  • keesh5keesh5 Posts: 1
    I've been haviing this problem since last summer with my 2002 DTS the blower for the heat and air condition comes on when it wants some times not at all. It has to be electrical cause I could slam the door and it would come on full blast that no longer works can any one help?
  • denbossdenboss Posts: 1
    I have a 2006 DTS that when it sits for a week the battery went dead. It went to the dealer 4 times and they said they checked everything out and said it was the radio memory that was draining the battery. So they put a switch under the dash to cut the radio off when parked. This did not work and you also lose all your preprogramed stations.The real reason is that the ON STAR system is draining the battery as it communicates with the car all the time. When you open the door it thinks you are going somewhere and runs a check on the whole system. The dealer WILL NOT disable the ON STAR no matter what you say. If you leave your DTS at the airport while you are on a 2 week trip to Europe you will have a dead battery when you return. If you use the car every day you will be OK, but if it sits the only recourse you have is to put a battery kill switch on the car. You will lose your radio stations but your battery will be OK. This is not a easy task as the battery is under the back seat and you don't want to keep lifting the seat out to turn on the switch. You need to run two cables from the battery to under the hood where you will mount the switch. It cost me about $200 to have this done but it sure was worth it. I like the car but it is going BY-BY when I can afford to dump it and buy a non-ON STAR car. I have always had Lincoln Towncars that sat for months that always started right up. So give up on the dealers as they will jack you around forever and never solve your problem except tell you to drive it more.

    GOOD LUCK
  • acp60acp60 Posts: 6
    I had the same problem for the 1st two years I owned my '06 DTS. After 4 batteries
    and many service calls I had to utilize the Lemon Law to get it resolved. The
    car has been fine since.
  • Hello,

    I am trying to install a back up camera system on my 2008 DTS and I need to know what the color code is for the back up lights wires leading into the tail light module. I find a yellow, yellow/white, purple, green, black, and one color that I don't remember right now. I'm trying to find the positive and negative colors for the back up lights. Anyone able to help?
  • I have a 2006 DTS with 37,000 miles and I'm getting a Service Air Bag message when I start the car. Does anyone know where I can take the car to get the error codes from the system other than a dealer? I would like to try to fix this problem myself if possible. I'm in the Detroit Mi. area. Thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,064
    sometimes (often actually) a store like Autozone or Kragen/Oreilly will read these for you for free. Tell us the code and we'll advise you further.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • I have tried Auto Zone and other parts stores... they only have the ability to check for engine failure codes. they don't have the electrical stuff. It may be I will have to go to a Cadillac dealer. I did go to a GMC dealer and they said they didn't have the codes/reader for a Cadillac ... was very surprised that GM / Cadillac keep car lines so segregated. I would have thought that other car lines would share the some computer/system codes.
  • Bought my 2006 DTS last fall. It is my road car, not used around my mountain village, just on trips "off the hill" of some miles. The car sits for days and sometimes, weeks at a time. I have high security and routinely just get out of my cars and leave the keys in them. On the cars I don't use but a few times a year (Silverado and Corvette) I maintain batteries with Harbor Freight battery tenders... work great.... But back to the DTS.... my battery has been going dead and I've done all the regular trouble shooting, including reading the forum. My mechanic did the ground scraping and such and it still went dead. I have put a new battery in the car, even though a few weeks before the old battery was indicating an ok condition after I had AAA jump the car and I had driven it 80 miles back to my mechanic's garage. So I kept trouble shooting and I think I have got the answer. You need to lock the car to shut down the electrical systems between driving the car. If you don't lock the car, a lot of the electronic systems keep running. To test my theory I locked the car for a week after I had installed the new battery. When I unlocked the car and started it up it had the full 14.5 amp registering. For the last three days I have left the car unlocked in the garage. The amps have dropped to 11.5 and the while the car started, in just three days a bunch of "stuff" inside our cars is pulling amps. I realize that a lot of the folks that buy DTS's are older and only drive their cars occasionally.... and while I am older, my circumstance has me in that same "light," though i love the performance of the car.
    Would appreciate thoughts on my theory.... I am still going to test it further, when I have a chance to let the car sit for a full week... then I'll leave the car unlocked with the battery charger standing by.
    As a final note, when I get in the car I hear a very faint wurrring sound, a space, then the sound again.... and it might continue but by then I have started the car. That same sound can be heard when I get in my lady's 2007 Yukon. She makes a habit of locking her car every time she is out of it. Her battery is 4.5 years old with no sign of weakening.
  • acp60acp60 Posts: 6
    Interesting approach. Will give it a try.
  • Our keyless remotes do not work on our 2007 DTS after being away from the vehicle for a short period. Once you unlock the door using the key the remote will once again work. Or, if the door is already unlocked, all you need to do is open the door and then the remotes will work. Basically this means we cannot pop the trunk or remotely start the car until we open the driver door or unlock the driver door. Anyone have the same issues or know of the problem and how it needs to be fixed? The dealership tried to reprogram the remotes and thought they fixed it until we walked away from the vehicles for a few minutes, came back, and same problem, didn't work.
  • pal9pal9 Posts: 1
    I have a 2006 DTS and gone through 4 batteries since July 2006.
    I usually leave the car unlocked in the Garage, from now on follow your advice and plan to lock it.

    Have you found anymore on this issue since your Feb. 13, 2011 post? Thanks.
  • rjredondorjredondo Posts: 1
    I own a 2006 Cadillac DTS and Here is my problem, my fuse that operates the cigarette lighter's front and back blew the other day, it requires a #15mini fuse, so I replaced it and it was fine for a day, then it blew again, so I took a look at it and found the fuse was bad once again, I thought maybe I replaced the fuse with a defective one, it happens, the fuse box is located under the back seat next to the battery, anyway I replaced it again and it blew right away soon as I put it in the terminal, and the connector's on the fuse were very hot. Now none of the other fuses in either fuse box (under hood), or (under seat) have had any problems. Have you heard of this, and if so what was the problem, and solution, thank you.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,896
    I suggest you post this in our Answers section here:

    http://answers.edmunds.com

    Several members with mechanical expertise read questions there, and this sounds like an electrical system issue. Once you have posted there, just go back to answers and click "my answers profile" to check for responses.

    MODERATOR
    Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
    Share your vehicle reviews

  • I am experiencing the same problem, did you find a solution?? Thanks.
  • ludloludlo Posts: 2
    I too have had this problem for the last 4 years. I also kept going to the dealer and getting blown off. I finally just bought a spare battery and keep it and a set of jumper cables in the trunk. This way I dont get caught off guard. On the other hand, I watch the volt meter and if it starts to register higher than 14.5 V, I clip a small charger to two wires I have attached to the + and - terminals of the battery ( being sure to keep them separated !!!! ) and let the batttery charge over night. This seems to control the problem. You might also be sure that there is not a CD in the player. I have a hunch that that continues to spin even when the key is off. Otherwise, its a new Acura for me the next time !!!
  • Hello princesspast1,

    Hopefully you are able to get some great insight from chiefcadiman; what are your plans for getting this checked into? If you were thinking about working with your dealership, please let us know as we're available to you through that process.

    Sarah, Cadillac Customer Service
  • Also have a DTS with a battery draining in about 24 hours. Dealer (Sadlon) up here in Barrie figured it was the alternator $1400 bucks later nothing changed. Went back had it all tested for the 2nd time they couldn't find a thing and said the battery was good. Sent me on my way. Went to CTC'S corp who said that the DTS was a notorious GM product with a lousy wiring harness. Saw the reference to the TSB #1906368 and called the service manager at Sadlon who said there was no such thing ... Maybe in the US .. But not Canada ... Called GM Canada in Oshawa .. No clue there either. After $70,loo bucks in Canada nada and GM wants it this way. Anyone in the US who can tell me what the TSB essentially says.
    By the way CTC'S answer for the DTS was like most of the other solutions for this DTS buy a battery buddy and a portable battery .... Best $100 bucks ... Car is off warranty so so much for the local Caddy dealership ... Back to Chrysler for another 300 ......
  • I was glad to find out Im not the only one dealing with the frustration of having my battery go dead on my 2006 DTS. It happened twice last year so I put in a new battery 8 months ago. Everything was fine and it then it went dead again last month. Jumped battery and was told everything looked ok. Then it happened again today - always seems to happen when the car has not been driven for a day or two. This time the mechanic will replace the battery tomorrow and do a draw test. As it seems to be an intermittent problem, Cadillac said the issue might not been seen during the draw test. I will refer them to TSP 1906368 as well as advise them to check for a possible poor ground from negative side f the battery as well as all other suggestions I read here today. I printed out this info to bring with me. Thanks to all.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,064
    Didn't find anything like the # you posted, but I did find these TWO TSB:

    TECHNICAL

    Bulletin No.: 09-08-50-017B

    Date: February 11, 2010

    Subject: No Crank, No Start, Discharged or Low Battery (Reprogram Rear Heated Seat Module)

    Models:
    2006-2010 Cadillac DTS
    Built Prior to February 2, 2010
    2007-2010 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade ESV
    2007-2010 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe
    2007-2010 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL
    Built Prior to November 30, 2009
    All Equipped with Rear Heated Seat RPO KA6
    Supercede:
    This bulletin is being revised to add build breakpoint dates. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 09-08-50-017A (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
    Condition

    Some customers may comment about a no crank/no start condition or a discharged or low battery.

    Note
    This condition may be intermittent, therefore it is important to check if a revised calibration has been released on TIS2WEB for this concern, even if the condition cannot be duplicated at the dealer.
    Cause

    This condition may be caused by the rear heated seat module (RHSM) discharging the battery by keeping the serial data bus active, which creates a cumulative continuous draw of four amps on the battery after the vehicle is shut down, until the state of charge reaches three volts.

    Correction

    Important
    DO NOT replace the RHSM or the battery for this concern.
    Reprogram the RHSM with the latest software calibration.

    Important
    Select the correct calibration files for the appropriate vehicle configuration (body style) and RPO codes.
    A revised calibration has been developed to address this condition. Technicians are to reprogram the RHSM using the Service Programming System (SPS) with the latest software available on TIS2WEB. Refer to the Service Programming System (SPS) procedures in SI.

    When using a Tech 2(R) or a Multiple Diagnostic Interface (MDI) for reprogramming, ensure that it is updated with the latest software version.

    During programming, the battery voltage must be maintained within the proper range of 12-15 volts. Only use the approved Midtronics(R) PSC 550 Battery Maintainer (SPS Programming Support Tool EL-49642) or equivalent during programming.

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- -

    Bulletin No.: 06-06-03-009

    Date: October 19, 2006

    INFORMATION

    Subject:
    Diagnostic Information on Battery Draw No Start - Body Control Module, BCM Power Timer
    Models:
    2006-2007 Buick Lucerne
    2006-2007 Cadillac DTS
    2006-2007 Chevrolet Impala, Monte Carlo
    2007 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade ESV, Escalade EXT, SRX
    2007 Chevrolet Avalanche, Equinox, Tahoe, Silverado, Suburban
    2007 GMC Sierra, Yukon, Yukon XL, Denali, Denali XL
    2007 Pontiac Torrent
    When performing normal diagnosis on a battery that has gone dead overnight, a technician may notice that the vehicle has approximately 4.1 amp draw on the system. The draw may be steady or may drop down to a low milliamp reading for 1-2 seconds and then rise back up to the 4.1 amp range. If this amp draw condition is observed, check for aftermarket accessories or an improperly installed GM accessory that is wired into circuit 6815 (orange wire) for courtesy lamps. Anytime aftermarket accessories are installed into the courtesy lamp circuit, it can cause the inadvertent power timer in the body control module (BCM) to keep resetting. The BCM will remain awake and cause the draw of approximately 4.1 amps.

    When servicing a vehicle with this concern, back out pin 1 of the connector 2 at the BCM and see if the draw goes away. If the draw goes away, check for an aftermarket accessory (Lojack, non-factory DVD system, alarm, etc.) that is improperly installed in circuit 6815.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,109
    evfilpicker,
    Is your mechanic with one of our GM Dealerships? If so, let us know as we're available to follow up with your service department if you like.
    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • indytooindytoo Posts: 5
    edited February 2013
    For the first time since I purchased my 06 DTS in Jan. 06, I went out to the garage on Monday to leave and was surprised that there was absolutely no power to start the vehicle. I called for jump start service and it started right up indicating that the battery had totally discharged overnight. I had the battery replaced about a year ago since that was due so that should not be the problem. Dealer ran all their tests and said there was not anything wrong battery or electrical system wise. Now that scares me. My main reason for this email is that I likewise purchased a portable battery to put in my trunk should it be needed. Then, my brain started working and I realized that without power, I cannot open the trunk to get to the portable battery. I guess that I will have to put it on the floor of the back seat area. I also noticed that someone had indicated that you could not unlock the door without power and if that being the case, I still could not get to the portable battery pac, nor, could I get to the hood release so I could get a jump start from another source. And GM just sticks their nose up in the air? Where does one go from here?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,064
    I would first test the charging system. Also I would not rely on the car's alternator to charge up that dead battery---that makes the alternator work very hard indeed It should be tested and charged. Batteries do fail, even when they are nearly new, and jump-starting a totally dead battery is not a great idea. I know, sometimes it's necessary, but if you could have a charger in the garage, that's a lot better idea.

    If the charging system checks out, and the battery is load-tested and found good, then you have a parasitic drain of some kind, and the dealer just blew it.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • indytooindytoo Posts: 5
    edited February 2013
    Thanks for your response. The dealer had my vehicle overnight as they said they were running a test that took many hours to complete. They said that they could find no problem with the electrical systems in my car, including the battery. As insurance, I had them replace the battery anyway. I stopped by the dealers yesterday to inquire if the key door locks work even with a dead battery and they said yes. So, I will keep the portable battery pack on the floor in the back seat area. That will be very embarrasing when people ask why am I carrying that in a Cadillac. On one hand, I would tend to agree with you that the dealer blew it as far as testing and correcting the problem is concerned, however, my dealer is a very old dealer and the only one here in Indy so I would think that their knowledge and background on these problems would be second nature to them. As well, as I would think that as common a problem as this seems to be, I would think that the factory would have determined the problem and issued a tech bulletin for correcting the problem by now. They have had about 7 years to work on the problem. Am I in left field on this issue? I might add that I really like this 06 Cadillac and think that it is a tremenous vehicle.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,064
    There is this TSB:

    TECHNICAL

    Bulletin No.: 09-08-50-017B

    Date: February 11, 2010

    Subject: No Crank, No Start, Discharged or Low Battery (Reprogram Rear Heated Seat Module)

    Models:
    2006-2010 Cadillac DTS
    Built Prior to February 2, 2010

    Condition

    Some customers may comment about a no crank/no start condition or a discharged or low battery.

    Note
    This condition may be intermittent, therefore it is important to check if a revised calibration has been released on TIS2WEB for this concern, even if the condition cannot be duplicated at the dealer.
    Cause

    This condition may be caused by the rear heated seat module (RHSM) discharging the battery by keeping the serial data bus active, which creates a cumulative continuous draw of four amps on the battery after the vehicle is shut down, until the state of charge reaches three volts.

    Correction

    Important
    DO NOT replace the RHSM or the battery for this concern.
    Reprogram the RHSM with the latest software calibration.

    Important
    Select the correct calibration files for the appropriate vehicle configuration (body style) and RPO codes.
    A revised calibration has been developed to address this condition. Technicians are to reprogram the RHSM using the Service Programming System (SPS) with the latest software available on TIS2WEB. Refer to the Service Programming System (SPS) procedures in SI.

    When using a Tech 2(R) or a Multiple Diagnostic Interface (MDI) for reprogramming, ensure that it is updated with the latest software version.

    During programming, the battery voltage must be maintained within the proper range of 12-15 volts. Only use the approved Midtronics(R) PSC 550 Battery Maintainer (SPS Programming Support Tool EL-49642) or equivalent during programming.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • I will print out this information and take it to the dealer next week and see what kind of response I get. The service statement that I received only indicated that an "Electrical system check was made and found everything checked out fine. Used GR8 to test battery; battery passed, installed 88865253 : 79PS Battery". I don't know whether that has any meaning or not other than what was stated. The service writer indicated that they had had cases of this problem but did not seem to provide any sense of reliability or processes as to any fixes. Perhaps they did reprogram the RHSM indicated in the TB, and did not indicate so on the service statement(?). The service writer did not indicate that it was done. I will find out about that also. Again, Thanks for your help and concern. Jim
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