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Chevrolet Blazer Warning Lights and Gauges



  • The most common problem for this occurance, is your entire Fuel Sending Unit. Theres a float arm that reads OHM's, and well, over time, the metal slide plate inside the tank, on the unit itself goes bad.

    I would recommend a stock DELCO unit, but you can get aftermarket units for fairly cheap.

    Another place you can buy a fuel sending unit is from a guy in florida, who runs a very reputable EBay store. I've bought many S10/Blazer parts from him, and never had any problems. He is a really good guy.

    Heres a link to his store - S10 Warehouse

    Keep in mind, that when you install the new unit, to be very careful with the arm when your putting it back in. THEY ARE VERY SENSITIVE...

    -- Cheers, "KuT" :)
  • Just recently, I installed a new Multi-Blinker/Cruise Switch, and cruise box. I had taken the dash apart to do some deep cleaning, (Radio Removed, Gauge Cluster removed). It all sat out for about 24 hours. When I put it all back together, My Security Light stays lit, the truck turns over, runs for <1sec, then dies. Passlock engaged, disabling the fuel injectors?? Also, None of my courtesy lights are working neither. Checked all fuses and relays, everything checks out ok.

    Could having the radio unplugged for so long, reset the Anti-theft/passlock code? Im lost, and dont know where else to turn..
  • When you turn the key to run the security light should go out after like 5 sec - if it does not passlock maybe activated. If it goes out you have another problem.

    The Passlock Anti-Theft system involves resistor codes which are generated by resistors located in the ignition key cylinder switch. The GM Passlock system uses what is known as a Hall Effect Sensor to send a resistor code to the Passlock module. The resistor code is activated when the ignition key is physically rotated in the ignition switch. Depending on the model of GM vehicle, the actual resistor code is only introduced to the Passlock system when the ignition switch is turned to the ignition on (run) position or only when the ignition switch is turned to the start (crank) position.
  • Thank you for that bit of knowledge, it does help.

    This is also what I learned (Don't know if it will help others)

    When I unplugged the wiring harness from the Multi-Switch/Ignition, I forgot to unhook the battery before doing so. (I swear I took the cables off). With the battery still giving juice, and my taking the harness off, the system took it as "Teft Tampering of the wires", and put the system into Anti-Theft mode. Also, being that I had stuff unplugged so long, there was a communication error, and the system body module had lost some kind of information.

    The dealer diagnosed it, popped 3 codes, and reset everything, and had to "re-teach" the module.

    All being said, the truck runs (yay), and I now have C/C. What I thought would be an easy task, and a fairly cheap one, turned out being nearly $300 after everything was done.

    Meh.. Im just an uneducated 23 year old, learning from his mistakes.
  • thanks a bunch for your comment. We ended up just forking out the money so every things under warranty. We probably could of fixed it for less than half their price but O WELL.
    Lifes a B.

    thanks again
  • I have a 99 Blazer that has 16,500 miles on it. When I start it up the gauges do not work and the engine light is on. If I push in the button for the trip then everything works but all the idiot lights are on. The truck also does not run good when the gauges are not working. The problem happen once before and I took the gauge unit out and made sure the connections were good and then it worked fine for a few weeks. I tried that again and this time nothing. The Blazer ran good before the dash went out.

    Anyone have an idea what to check for?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    I would say the main harness is not plugged in all the way behind the gages or the battery/terminals are not allowing 12.6 volts - Blazers act weird at lower voltage (Is the volt gage reading around 14 volts as the alternator is charging?
  • The connect to the gauge unit is good good. Is there another I should look for and where would it be? While checking to see what the volt gauge read, which was over 14 volts. I noticed that the volt gauge and the speedo work. Its the fuel, oil pressure, and the temp don't work. Also the mileage does not lite up.
  • uptownuptown Posts: 2
    i agree it should be a recalled item. this is ridiculous. i am and have been going thru this for a year . now after hurricane. so im sure water had something to do with it. now we had a flood; so htis p0410 is it something i can fix. i am changing the fuel pump and regulator. will this do it. well dad is doing it.!! ha ha
  • uptownuptown Posts: 2
    by the way you say . and that part will cost me $500 and is on national backorder . but you did not say the part.. if you know the part.. please tell me.. please i am so so upset with my life and blazer
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Well thats their story cause they ran out of pumps - lots of good auto stores can order Delco with the #s I've attached:

    DTC P0410 Sec Air Injection - How to Repair and Part#s


    99-01 Blazers with the 4.3L motor and 00-03 2.2L motors have the Secondary Air Injection system and I've listed the codes, part #s, circuit description, and have to fix below.

    DTC P0410 (SES Light On) - Secondary Air Injection
    P1415 and/or P1416 for secondary air injection Bank A and B can also be set if the powertrain control module (PCM) detects a heated oxygen sensor voltage mismatch and activates an internal test to confirm.

    Circuit Description:
    This is located under the radiator (pump, electric solenoid, and vacuum shutoff valve) and tees off up to the exhaust manifolds thru 2 check valves on 4.3L. For 4wd remove the front skid plate to access. The secondary air injection pump is used to lower tail pipe emissions on start-up. The PCM supplies a ground to the pump relay, which energizes the pump and the electric solenoid valve. Engine vacuum is applied to the shut-off valve when the solenoid is energized. The engine vacuum opens the shut-off valve that allows air to flow to the exhaust manifolds. Often the pump gets water/moisture in it and freezes up blowing the fuse and the check valves rust or freeze open internally and then burn thru the rubber hose, and even melt the lower &#147;T&#148;, shutoff, and even pump impeller.

    Check/Replace as required:
    1. You should hear the pump on starting the Blazer and if you put your hand on it you will feel it running for about 1 minute. Part #12560095 (AC Delco 215-364) Pump, Sec Air Inj for 1999-2000 L35 (4.3L) or #12568324 (AC Delco 215-425) Pump, Sec Air Inj for 2001 L35 (4.3L) + 2000-2003 L43/LN2 (2.2L).
    The GM # is on your current pump so check it because the Dealer is very confused and/or out of these and will sub other pumps. You can remove the pump and take the #25 torx screws out and see if the impeller is clogged, rusted, melted, etc before spending $100-200 for it. Impeller should spin freely.

    2. Extend the air intake hose that ends halfway up the passenger side of the radiator about 2 more feet so it can run between the battery and coolant reservoir and push into the fender hole to keep dry. 99-00 is 5/8 heater hose and inline connector and 01-03 is 3/4 heater hose and inline connector &#150;check size.

    3. #12558992 (AC Delco 215-638) air injection check valves 2 required &#150; most stores sell these for $12-20 each or Dealer $33 each. If they rattle or the hoses are burned thru replace &#150; should only flow air into the exhaust. The easiest way is to remove the two 13mm nuts that mount the check valve pipe to the exhaust manifold and use a vise to hold them &#150; trust me here. The little exhaust gaskets should be reusable.

    4. #10217106 connect (hoses) 2 required check valves to pipes (Dealer Only $7 each). If burned thru or hard/brittle replace. Usually a good thing to plan on buying!

    5. #12555165 secondary injection shutoff valve (vacuum operated in the ¾&#148; hose in the pump outlet to the &#147;T&#148; pipe under the Blazer (Dealer Only $27). Only open when the pump is on and vac applied. Also replace the 5/32&#148; vac hose from the solenoid to valve and solenoid to intake (about 4 ft of it). Once you extend the air intake listen to the hose end and you should not hear any exhaust noise after the short initial one minute pump run &#150; if you still do the vac diaphragm is stuck open/clogged/burned so replace. Vac is applied by an electric solenoid mounted by the pump #01997264. The center vac port goes to the intake manifold vac and the off center vac goes to the shutoff valve above. The vac should only be applied to the shutoff valve for that 1 minute as the Blazer starts then is switched off. Hose clamps will be needed here.

    6. #10105352 &#147;T&#148; for under Blazer where pump outlet to both pipes connect &#150; if yours melted! One end is ¾&#148; and two are 5/8&#148;ends - but you can use a ¾&#148; on all ends with a little lube. Hose clamps here too.

    7. The pumps 30 amps Maxi-fuse (large size) is under a little black cover between your battery tray and inside the passenger side fender. You may have to remove your battery to get to it. Depress the little cover retainer and remove, then pull the large fuse out to check/replace. There&#146;s also a 10 amp small fuse to check for the electric solenoid that controls the secondary injection shutoff valve mounted by the air pump.

    8. If you need the 2 lower hoses that connect the metal pipes to the &#147;T&#148; going to the pump here&#146;s the bad news &#150; Dealer Only and includes the pipes so over $100.

    That&#146;s all there is to it &#150; Enjoy.
  • I'm having a problem with my 97 Jimmy its ideling rough, blowing incredible amounts of pure black smoke. I took it to a mechanic he read the code which said it was an O2 sensor, replaced it and it didn't help, pulled all my plugs and only plugs 1,3,5 were really really black while the others were "brand" new looking. Took to another mechanic (another 70 bucks for the comp test) and he tells me its misfiring on banks 1,3,5 and its the O2 sensor, then he tells me its my fuel pressure regulator, but when he tested the fuel line its between 53-55. And he proceded to tell me he "donno".... Any suggestions would be greatly appriciated thank you
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Start with new Delco cap and rotor - possible misfiring and then when were the plug wires changed - they should have looked at these on an analyzer/scope but an ohm meter will do. Then are any codes still there (SES light) and most sores like Autozone and Advance read for free so post them. Pressure test is two parts with key on engine off (start press) and it should be min 60psi and then when you shut the key off [press should stay close to that and not drop quickly which is a leaking press reg on the injection or a pump failing - then with running 53psi is OK. Then could be a clogged EGR up on the front of the engine stuck open due to carbon in the port (2 bolts hold on). Post any codes.
  • I have a 2000 chevy blazer and I wanted to know if there is anyway to test to see if my odometer is working properly. I get an oil change every 3000 miles and I seem to be reaching that in less than a month. The oil change technician asked me if I went out of town because I'm coming back so frequently. The farthest I drive is to work, and I drive a total of 200 miles a week.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    3,000 miles a month is some serious driving. It's well over twice what the average driver accumulates in that time. Have you tried driving along a course of known distance such as an interstate with mile markers?

    tidester, host
  • I have had a 99 and 2000 Savana, both with this same issue. I've researched the internet to find 1000's of complaints, but very few to GM. People need to call GM and complain! Then maybe they'd figure out there's a problem. Without data from customers, GM won't do squat for those of us that do call them. They assume there's no problem because few people call and complain. Even if you do it yourself or go to an independent mechanic, call GM customer service 800 462-8782 and tell them your issue.
  • Yes, lots of problems on these type and many run the gas down to empty every tank and then that heats the pumps up even more (if submerged they run cooler) and the gage was a bad design too and all 1 piece unit. Good luck.
  • I have a 97 Blazer that has had all kinds of wiring problems. The latest being the signal lights. I recently had to replace both front turn lights and now when you turn the indicator lever on nothing works. You can hear the relay click on and then nothing. The four-ways work fine and the brake light won't come on,on the side the turn indicator is pointed to. I've checked fuses and everything seem ok. Please help ,I'm at a loss.
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