Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Dodge Durango Overheating Problems

24

Comments

  • lenorekittylenorekitty Member Posts: 1
    02 Durango, V8 4.7 overheats during summer (70 degrees or warmer) in stop and go traffic and at idle in drive , but stalls in stop and go traffic and at idle in drive during cold (30 degree F)winter weather. Temp sensor? Or could it be something simpler like thermostat or water pump or the fan clutch? In either situation if it's put in neutral, or being driven in moving freeway traffic it runs just fine. And when it overheats the coolant isn't boiling, and the hoses aren't excessivly hot.

    TIA for any advice.
  • sdoutsdout Member Posts: 23
    Sorry, I didn't receive a notification and just received another request from another person and saw your inquiry. I had the tow package cooling system installed on my Durango, which is different from the original tow package. The tow package itself should have the factory hitch with the electrical hook-up, a bigger alternator and flasher amp in addtion to the two core radiator and transmission cooler (located in front of the AC condenser). My Dakota had the OEM tow package. I noticed the difference right away because my truck had an aluminum colored radiator and the original radiator in the Durango was black. This might be something to check. I thought 2001 was the first year for rear climate, but I'm not for sure. One of my buddies had a 2000 or 1999 and it didn't have AC or heat. If there is rear heat you should have some type of rear controller allowing heat, in addition off of the thermostat housing (on the timing chain cover side) you will have the two heater lines going to the rear water pump. If you don't have a dual core radiator and transmission cooler, your ability to keep your car cool is somewhat handicapped. On a near 100 degree day, my Dakota will run almost halfway hot with nothing but the AC on. I'm not sure why Dodge ever made either vehicle without a dual core radiator. I noticed that you have not mentioned changing your fan clutch. I would test this to see if it is operating properly. Since you've had it flushed and fluids checked, I'm sure it had the right amount and good coolant in it. I would think that this truck should still be able to run with the AC on without getting hot and run under somewhat of a load without getting hot (I might be giving Dodge a little too much credit, but I don't think its an unreasonable thought). If it were me, I would check the fan clutch. If it seems to be working, then I would probably remove the water pump and thermostat. If there is some kind of corrosion then, I would consider getting the timing chain cover (if you buy the timing chain cover it comes with a water pump and thermostat installed, don't buy one before), if not then I would consider changing the thermostat, water pump, belt and fan clutch (I would do the fan clutch because you have to remove it anyway when you change the water pump, unless of course you have already changed one or more of those devices). The total cost for the thermostat, water pump, belt and fan clutch should be around or less than $150. If I had to guess from what you told me in the order of likelihood, the first is the fan clutch, then the thermostat stuck open, third the water pump, next the belt is old and slipping. I would not change the timing chain cover unless I found something to support that debris could have gotten into the cooling system, however if your radiator guy is right and everything checks then I would have expected your radiator to be clogged, which it sounds like it isn't. I hope this helps out. If you can think of any other symptoms let me know and I'll try to give you my best guess.
  • sdoutsdout Member Posts: 23
    Does your engine light ever come on? I'm thinking that you may have two different problems. The first when it gets hot in warm weather in stop and go traffic is likely related to air flow. This could be a bad fan clutch or a partially clogged radiator. It could also be due to low coolant level and old coolant. Improper coolant mixture could also be a factor especially if the level is low. The second problem might have to due with a hose coming from your gas tank. I have mentioned it before and it might be more descriptive than what I'm giving you here, but there are two hoses near your gas tank that go into a cannister. The hoses have a tendency to crack. They carry gasoline "vapors." I do not live in a cold climate, but I would image they would have even more of a tendency to crack in colder weather. However, if you do not have an engine light on, then this is likely your problem, because it will definitely come on if one or both of these hoses are cracked. Another cause could be a oxygen or mass air flow sensor, but again I would image that you would have an engine light on. On a Honda I used to have there was a warm engine sensor. The car would adjust its air flow and gas based on whether the car was warm or cold. The way I found out about it was one day I drove the car somewhere and got in it to take off, but it wouldn't start. It would turn over and act like it would start and then die. When I let it set for about a half an hour, the car cooled enough to allow it to start. I don't know if such a sensor exists in the Durango and again I would expect that you would have an engine light on. In a previous post, I also describe on how to check your engine codes, if you have an engine light on. It is possible that your throttle sensor is worn out and needs to be replaced. I have changed in on both my Durango and Dakota because when driving on cruise control the RPMs would suddenly increase for a short time then resume to normal. After I changed the throttle sensor (about $ 35), this went away. The reason I mention this is if an area in the sensor wore out then it might cause your car to die at idle and the engine light does not come on for this condition. If there is any more symptoms that you can think of please respond and I'll try to help you out.
  • sdoutsdout Member Posts: 23
    I know you said you had your radiator checked. If you removed it or if a mechanic removed it make sure that your electric fan is plugged in and working. It should come on at the half way point or higher. If it is not coming on, you are not getting max airflow and it could be causing your vehicle to run warm because it is not getting the additional help it needs. If it is not coming on, the connection should be at the bottom of the radiator nearly right in the middle. It sounds like a pain to get to but you can actually get to it from under the front of the truck by removing a couple of plastic rivets and bending down the plastic protective cover behind the bumper. I've forgotten it before and had to plug it in this way. Again, I hope this helps, if you have anymore info, I'll do my best with it.
  • hypnotist1hypnotist1 Member Posts: 4
    this am for the first time the engine light came on had a diagnostic done on it and it said something about emission or something like that sensors tech erased code and light went out suppose it is ok to drive vehicle >
  • sdoutsdout Member Posts: 23
    You should be able to check the code, if it happens again by turning the key on and off 3 times (in an earlier post, I have explained exactly how to do this). It will save you the time and money for having to find out what is wrong with your vehicle. An emission problem could be something as simple like an O2 sensor or something more serious like a catalytic converter. Anyhow, when they erase the code, of course the light will go out because there is nothing to notify the computer that there is a problem. If it is an constant problem the engine light will come back on immediately. If it is an intermittent problem then it will come on when the problem happens again. When the codes are cleared, generally the computer has to relearn the operations of the vehicle, so you won't be able to get it smogged or checked within the next day or even possibly the next couple days. If you can get the code, then you can find out how serious your problem is. If they noted the code on the paperwork, you can google it and find out what the problem is. I had a friend who had some strange code on his CR-V, once it was removed it hasn't come back (it's been about 3 years), however most codes are an indication of a sensor failure or a problem and you will see it again if the problem was not resolved. Hope this helps.
  • leslieshollylesliesholly Member Posts: 1
    I have a '98 Durango SLT with 5.2 engine. There are about 230,000 miles on it, but not all of that is on the current engine--we had to put in a new one in 2005 because of the oil sludge thing that 98s are known for, I don't know what year the current engine is but it was supposed to be free of that problem.

    A couple of weeks ago my heater core went bad and we had it bypassed. The mechanic said our radiator probably had a leak and was all corroded inside. Many things do leak out of the car judging from the assortment of puddles in the driveway.

    A few days ago I was driving up a mountain when the car started running hotter and hotter. By the time we got to the top it was steaming and in the red zone. When it was time to leave we filled it with water and ran it for a few minutes and it seemed okay, but as soon as we started driving again it went red.

    There was nowhere to pull over and once we got to paved road although it was still hot it was running okay. We were trying to make it 11 miles down the road to the gas station to buy coolant. But then the engine started clacking. At first it would stop if I drove slower, but then it was clacking continuously. The oil had been showing a little to the low side, but then abruptly the line fell to zero and we lost all power.

    We had to pay $80 to tow the thing back to civilization. The mechanic wants $600 to replace the oil pump before he even begins to evaluate what else might be wrong. We don't have any money.

    So my questions are: Does this scenario ring any bells? Is replacing the oil pump the thing to do? Is that a reasonable price (in Knoxville, Tennessee) to do such a thing? If we have to replace the engine, how much should we expect that to cost? Is any of this even worth it, given the age of our car and its mileage?

    Thanks.
  • egkpopegkpop Member Posts: 2
    Please help, sdout!! I cannot travel across my small town and back (about a 10 minute stop-and-go drive) without my Durango overheating to the red line. It never overheated before this. I checked radiator fluid recently, and added what was needed (it was pretty low). Because filling it to capacity hasn't worked, today, I removed the radiator cap and found a fair amount of gunk on the cap and inside where the cap connects (radiator logged?). By the way, if I travel at 55 MPH or higher, the temperature remains below the half-way mark. Also (and I'm not sure how I figured this out) but when the temperature reaches the red line, I can put the car in neutral, rev the engine to 4000-4500 RPMs for 5-10 seconds, and the temperature will lower to near the half-way mark. But the temperature remains low for only a few minutes until climbing back up to the red line. Running the AC does nothing, by the way. I'm trying to keep repair costs to a minimum. Should I start by flushing the system and refilling, then go from there (e.g., replace thermostat, water pump, timing chain cover, radiator, etc.)? Thanks for your help. Reviewing your other forum replies has been very helpful!
  • sdoutsdout Member Posts: 23
    Thank you for the information. You have made some really good observations and points. At first, I was inclined to think that your fan clutch is working okay because it is providing good air flow over the radiator when you put it in neutral and rev the engine, however, if that was true then why would you need to rev the engine, right? Since the electric fan is suppose to turn on at the halfway point, it makes me wonder if your electric fan is working. Since your vehicle is heating up rather quickly, I would run the vehicle at idle and make the following observations. Does the fan clutch kick on ( the noticeable roar when the temp gauge is over 1/4 but under 1/2 on the temp gauge)? Next, when the vehicle gets to the 1/2 way point does the electric fan kick on? My suspicion is that both of these are working, but I would check these because if they aren't working then we want to get these operating correctly to get the best cooling working for your vehicle. The gunk on the radiator cap is potentially the source of your problem, however it could also be the result. If the gunk is gritty (with metal particals) then I think perhaps something is breaking down (possibly the timing chain cover) and clogging up the radiator reducing the amount of coolant being cooled. If the gunk is thick but doesn't seem to be gritty then it could just be the coolant was old and possibly started clogging up the radiator especially if the level was low for a while. If the gunk is gritty, I would remove the thermostat and check behind it to see if there is any deterioration in the timing chain cover. If you aren't satified, you can check behind the water pump, also. If there is no grit and the gunk is just thick, then you can try to flush the system several times to see if you can get more of the gunk out. I would think you might be able to get some of the gunk out and it might help cooling for a while, but ultimately I think the problem is likely to reoccur in the future. If you are okay with constantly monitoring your temp gauge and routinely flushing your system this might work, however, I would replace the radiator. Here are the steps I would take. Since you are trying to keep costs down, I will put what I think is mandatory and needs to be done and optional on things that might be able to slide until you can afford it.

    - Check to see if the fan clutch and electric fan are coming on when they are suppose to, if one or both of them are not functioning, replace. (Mandatory)

    - Remove the radiator and have it pressure checked at a radiator shop. If it is clogged, replace it, the hoses and cap. (Radiator - mandatory, Hoses, if in good shape and free of gunk - optional, Radiator cap - this is close to mandatory, but at least it needs to be clean and free of gunk).

    - Before installing the radiator flush the rest of the system as thoroughly as possible.

    - If you have not changed the belt in a while, change it (If belt looks good - optional)

    - Install a new radiator cap (same as above).

    - Install new coolant (Mandatory)

    If you find your timing chain cover deteriorating, then the timing chain cover will need to be replaced which should include a new water pump and thermostat (mandatory). The radiator will likely be clogged and should be replaced (mandatory) along with the radiator hoses, belt and radiator cap (same as above).

    I hope this helps, if you have any other questions or find out anything you need help with, let me know.
  • egkpopegkpop Member Posts: 2
    Wow. You're quite the diagnostician. I am truly grateful. I'll let you know how it goes. Fortunately, I have a friend that can help who's very knowledgeable about cars in general. But your input will definitely get us on the right track, and sooner rather than later. Thanks again!!
  • donchil6donchil6 Member Posts: 10
    hi you are not going to belive what fixed our problem!!!! RADIATOR CAP!!! AFTER SPENDING ALL KINDS OF MONEY AND FIXES MY HUSBAND KEPT SAYING RADIATOR CAP AND SO WE DECIDED TO GET ONE 7.00 AND IT IS FIXED!! NO MORE HEATING PROBLEMS.
  • dlsweetingdlsweeting Member Posts: 3
    So here is my problem. About 9 mons ago I had my heads done on the car. Drove great no problems. At that time, he suggested I got my valves done but I didn't really know the mechanic and I thought he was trying to get more $$$ out of me. I said no. Fast forward to late Dec and I'm told I need a new egine by many. I took it to the guy who did the heads and he told me it was the valves that I didn't get done before. He fixed it - I mean this kid is great - the car literally purrs - sound BETTER -than when i brought it. Before he did the valves the car was overheating. I changed the thermostat twice as well as the water pump, the radiator cap and flushed the radiator. EVERYONE I speak to that is mechanically superior is stummped. It may run good for a day or so, then it will overheat. I fill it up with coolant and later that day I can smell the coolant but don't see any puddles. When it overheats, the coolant drains from the overflow. PLEASE HELP!!! I am trying to get back into sales and having a car is critical!!!
    PLEASE HELP!!!
  • donchil6donchil6 Member Posts: 10
    well your right it worked for a few days the radiator cap. started over heating again. we filled it with fluids and it smells like atafreeze but no leaks I am giving up and looking to trade this asap!!!! will never buy another dodge product
  • sdoutsdout Member Posts: 23
    It sounds like you have already replaced some components that could cause the problem, so lets go on from there. Since the car runs good for a day or two, we can assume that the external cooling parts are generally doing there job (the fans). I would take the truck back down to your mechanic and have him perform a pressure test on your radiator or you can remove the radiator and take it down to a radiator shop and have them pressure test it for you (this will tell you if you have a leak or if its clogged). My shop did it for nothing and it only took a few minutes. You also stated that the coolant is coming from the overflow. It is important not to overfill your overflow and make sure it is holding coolant. If you have a leak in your overflow, you will slowly drain your car of coolant causing it to overheat. If you overfill, obviously it will cause it blow off the excess and make it difficult to see if there is a leak somewhere else. While it sounds like you are sure there aren't any leaks, it may pay to look over your system once more. I've had a leak in my Durango that was hard to find because the plastic parts under the radiator caught almost all of the coolant. I hope this helps.
  • dlsweetingdlsweeting Member Posts: 3
    Thank you for the reply. I am truly at my wits end. The car works great for a few days than the overheating begins. Now I have no heat. If I drive with no heat the car will not overheat. I am really upset. I am in sales and my car is ESSENTIAL!!! Talk about a catch 22, I don't have the money to take it in to ge the car fixed but if I don't I'm probably going to loose me job because I'm not producing like I should be because I can't get out and see my account. I really don't know what else to do. I'm going to replace the radiator next week and pray this helps. Again, I appreciate your reply and any other info you can add. I really didn't think someone was going to respond.
  • donchil6donchil6 Member Posts: 10
    my husband kept telling me to change the radiator cap and it really worked for me for now anyway it has been a month now and it still works fine no overheating and i have heat RADIATOR CAP
  • dlsweetingdlsweeting Member Posts: 3
    Thank you for the suggestion. Over the past 2 months I have done the following...

    Heads resurfaced
    Valves done
    Changed the thermostat - twice
    Changed the water pump
    Changed the radiator cap
    Changed the Heater core
    Flushed the system...

    and I'm still having problems...

    PLEASE HELP!!!!!!
  • bredmanbredman Member Posts: 1
    Been weird. For awhile, it would get hot and all of a sudden would just drop in temp to normal. Heat would not work when it was going up to hot. Lately, got hot and did not come down. Took the thermostat out...replaced it...no effect. Did a water pump before this problem started because I was loosing water...The other day, I took off both radiator hoses and ran water through the radiator and the engine in both directions. Water does come out from the upper and lower hose in the radiator and through the engine. Flushed and put back together without the thermostat. Still runs hot. Thinking radiator? Top hose gets hot but the bottom hose remains cool? Email please.

    Thanks,
  • ronsmlltwneronsmlltwne Member Posts: 2
    My dad's 2000 dodge durango 4.7 is overheating we replaced the thermostat thinking that was it. That did not do it. You can see the fluid circulating so it's not the water pump so at this point we are stumped. What do you think it could be. We check the timing belt cover and it is not detiorating so what now?
  • rfc1180rfc1180 Member Posts: 1
    Just curious, what is the normal operating temp, where does that relate to on the temp gauge (1/4, 1/2, 3/4, etc).

    Thanks
    Billy
  • ronsmlltwneronsmlltwne Member Posts: 2
    1/2 is where is sits at normal operating temp
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    Typically it should hover around 210F. Lower when cruising, higher when under load. when it's 115F in Arizona and I'm climbing a hill I get about 220-225F, when I'm on a flat spot it will drop back to 190 or so. I consider it normal for cooling system in good order. My Suburban was about the same, but I remember pulling a heavy trailer once and it was running at 240 or so when under load.
  • shannel27shannel27 Member Posts: 1
    I have a question and you seem to be the one with all the answers. I have a 2000 Durango 2WD, it has 112,000 miles on it, I purchused it used last Feb, It started overheating, about two weeks ago, it was over 100 degress, it went to hot very fast then the check gauges light was on, once I pulled in the driveway, it made thgis loud noise and this rusty water came out everywhere through the fan thing in the front, and the top. The next day I tried to drive it, when I would stop it would turn off, now its sitting waiting to be fixed, what do I check first?
  • chumbucket3chumbucket3 Member Posts: 1
    Replaced radiator,thermostat, fan clutch and it was still overheating. Performed boil test on the AFTERMARKET thermostat and it did not open up at all, water was at 220. Put in oem thermostat and it is running as designed. Maybe i was lucky.
  • kelskeymekelskeyme Member Posts: 1
    Same issue! I have the 5.9 L, V8 2WD.
    Can anyone tell me about an "Auxiliary" pump located somewhere back by the firewall on passenger side? I read a blog where a man replaced everything I have replaced on mine, (radiator, hoses, filler neck, water pump) I also flushed the system very well and I finally had to remove my thermostat on the side of the road one day. I'm going out to replace the fan clutch now and will post my results. If that doesn't do the trick, I hope to find out more on the "Auxiliary Pump".
    When the man replaced his, all his troubles were gone. My auto manual does not mention this, nor can I find it on any auto parts websites.
  • bbsmummybbsmummy Member Posts: 3
    sdout, i hope you are still following the threads here as you seem to know durangos! I have a 99 durango 5.9l, we have had it in and out shops and no one seems to be able to duplicate my issue and they all think my truck run great! Besides costing a small fortune in diagnostics, and little fixes, we end up having the same issue after a couple months each time. And once the problem starts, it happens once a week for a couple weeks, then once every couple of days, then more frequently. I can deal with it, but would rather know what the issue is.
    My durango bogs out, you go to start it, and it starts but then acts like their is no gas and will stall...most times you can pump the gas pedal, which causes it to cough and choke, it basically sounds like it is hitting and missing untill eventually, you pump it out enough times and it stops bogging.....I then need t hold my foot steady on the gas, holding it at approx. 1000 rpm until i can release the gas and it stays running. After this happens it is good to go. Whether related or not, it also will sometimes idle rough, it starts out idling fine, then will start to slow down and almost stall out, sound very rough. The last thing is that we recently tried to tow a 3500 lb trailer up a mountain, we got almost3 km and overheated, pedal was all the way to the floor, and couldn't get it to go above 2000rpm...felt like we were gonna start going backwards, next thing we knew the transmission overheating light came on, then check engine, then plain overheating....we had to pull over and wait almost an hour before filling with water, going back home and getting a friend to tow our new trailer for is... mechanic figures could possibly be a clogged muffler(unrelated to original unsolveable issue) and suggested unhooking muffler after the new (replaced 3 months ago) catalytic converter, and rehooking up trailer and trying again...so far we have had the injectors cleaned, a new water pump, new computer module as that was the first diagnosis$$$, sensors were checked, hoses checked....oh just about everything...any ideas??? I am more concerned with the bogging then the overheating as this is a major issue for us! Any ideas anyone>> Similar issues?
  • njmadelinenjmadeline Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Durango with a 4.7 engine that keeps overheating. The truck has 97,200 miles on it. I replaced the following all in the same week. I replaced the thermostat but unfotunately that wasn't it, then I replaced the water pump and still no luck, I also replaced the top radiator hose which I had to order from the dealer due to the middle cap part on the hose and that wasn't it. The temperature raises faster within minutes once the AC is turned on. I don't turn the AC on because of that and I can drive for about 20-30 minutes before the temp goes up and my check gages light comes on because its overheating.I don't know what else to do or what else can I replace. PLEASE HELP!
  • bbsmummybbsmummy Member Posts: 3
    we have been told that ours overheating when we were towing up a steep mountain was more then likely a clogged muffler....only way to tell is to disconnect muffler after the catalytic converter and retow up the hill :)
  • hmortonhmorton Member Posts: 5
    Hello! This is my last resort... My hubby wants to get rid of my durango!~ I have a 2001 Durango with a 4.7L engine. I hit a deer last November, I started leaking antifreeze from the radiator ( there was a small leak) We replaced the radiator, but now I am leaking antifreeze from the overflow every time I stop, and also when I drive on the highway, it sprays out all over the engine. The overflow stays full, I have to fill the filler neck every 4 days or so with a 1/2 gallon of antifreeze. We have replaced the upper radiator hose, (fiiller neck), the water pump, and not quite sure what steps to take from here. It will get hot when the fluid gets low, but will cool down if I keep driving, as soon as I slow down or stop it heats back up, which hubby says means it is probably not the thermostat. He thought replacing the filler neck would solve the problem, but no such luck! We are open to ANY new ideas!!!
  • donchil6donchil6 Member Posts: 10
    Please dont get rid of it i had the same overheating problem after spending alot of money i was still smelling and leaking atifreeze it is your AUXILARY WATER PUMP YEP THERE 2 WATER PUMPS ON THE DURANGO LET ME KNOW IF THIS WORKS IT IS A DEALER PART ONLY THOUGH I GOT MINE FOR 116 BUT IF YOU GET IT FROM A DEALER IT IS GOING TO BE 152.00 IT IS THE AUXILARY PUMP
  • hmortonhmorton Member Posts: 5
    I should specify, my car does not get hot unless the fluid is low. It constantly leaks fluid out of the overflow, even under normal operating temperatures. It keeps pushing the fluid out the overflow bottle...
  • somefoolsomefool Member Posts: 1
    Someone at dodge put the stock thermostat at the coldest point in the cooling system---where the lower / return rad hose enters the block. The coolant mat be cold enough there the thermostat isnt open yet the top of the engine is HOT. To fix the problem remove the stock thermostat and install an aftermarket thermostat in the upper rad hose where it conects to the block. this is the place everone else puts their thermostats --- the hotest spot in the cooling system .
  • vbkrisvbkris Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 4.7L 4WD sport. What I've seen with these Durangos is that they have the thermostat located at the outlet of the radiator, at a low point in the system. Also, the radiator itself is a crap design. The outlet isn't even at the bottom of the radiator, it's half way. The thermostats are reverse poppet type; there is a water pump suction port in the housing that diverts water from the block to the water pump while warming up. I think what's happening is the flange on the end of the poppet shaft isn't completely sealing the port when the thermostat opens. I plugged mine with a 7/16 bolt with teflon tape and Permatex aviation gasket sealer. I switched to an EMP Stewart/Robert Shaw 180 thermostat. My system is running friggin' great. As soon as I get up above 30 MPH, it starts cooling down. The water flow is excellent. I might consider going back to a 195 Robert Shaw it's running so good. Pass this on to any one with overheating problems with their Durango.
  • donchil6donchil6 Member Posts: 10
    replacing the Auxilary Pump fixed mine also after hundreads spent on everything else 126.00 for Auxilary Pump have to get from dealer no after market
  • vbkrisvbkris Member Posts: 2
    If your system keeps pushing water in to the over flow tank, there's air in the system. That's another good reason to switch thermostats to stewart/robert shaw. The holes in the poppet help bleed the air out.
  • kj0505kj0505 Member Posts: 2
    I have an 03 Durango and have recently had water leaking onto the Driver side floor. Also had water blowing out the radiator cap when I shut it off. Changed radiator cap and it started leaking out the lower radiator hose instead. Overheated one time. Replace thermostat. Replaced water pump about 6 months ago. Now it gets hot after about 30 minutes but cools off if rolls down hill or keeps moving fast. Doesn't appear to be leaking water from the engine, but still water on driver side floor. Also when I started the engine with the radiator cap off, the antifreeze wasn't flowing. Shouldn't it be moving as soon as the truck starts, or does it get warm first? Another problem that I believe is unrelated is my heater blower resistor has been replaced twice, probably meaning I need to now replace blower...but it's hot air coming out.
  • donchil6donchil6 Member Posts: 10
    try the auxliary pump it is a small electric pump and i had to replace on mine and has never overheated since!!! 154.00 it is a dealer item. cant get it at a parts house
  • kj0505kj0505 Member Posts: 2
    Do all Durango's have an auxiliary pump? Mine doesn't have the rear heater.
  • donchil6donchil6 Member Posts: 10
    mine is a 2004 so i am sure yours has one and i bet that is your problem they guy that replaced my water heater and flused it and did all kinds of work on it didnt even know they had a auxilary pump after spending over 700 on trying to fix the heating problem it was the auxzillary pump
  • beachmom62beachmom62 Member Posts: 1
    Wow, it's actually good (well mostly bad) to hear that I am not alone with this issue. Thankful for finding this forum before I spend hundreds more $$$. My question is on the auxillary pump - once you buy it at the dealer is it easy to replace yourself or did a mechanic do it for you? Thank you!
  • pams49pams49 Member Posts: 1
    we have a 2001 Dodge Durango that started overheating.We have replaced the thermastate and checked the relay and fuse.We have replaced the clutch on the fan,and replaced the radiator fan and the tempature sensor also have tried to get all the air out of the line but we are having problems getting all the air out and it is still overheating do you have any suggestions?
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    More info needed. Did it overheat all the time are just when idling while not moving? Has the radiator been checked to see if it's clogged? Was it using coolant with no apparent leak?
  • hmortonhmorton Member Posts: 5
    @ burdawg - I know this was to Pams49 - but I have same issue. Mine is overheat while idling - cool back down while driving - had the radiator flushed, replaced the cap, then replaced the fill nozzle when cap didn't work - replaced the water pump - the only leak we can see is it comes out the overflow when I stop - the overflow is never low, just gets higher and higher - only thing low is you always fill in the the fill nozzle (radiator cap) no apparent leaks.... anything is greatly appreciated.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    That kind of problem is usually indicative of the cooling fans not working properly. When your stopped and idling there's no air flow over the radiator, so the fan or fans should be running or running at a higher level. Once you start moving the air flow over the radiator is usually sufficient to provide the needed cooling, except during hot weather, when the airflow isn't enough.
    I don't know what year Durango you have, but on my 2000 there's a combination of a mechanical clutch fan driven off the serpentine belt and auxiliary electric fans also. If any of them are not working properly you can have overheat problems like you describe. The electric fans run all the time when the a/c is on by the way.
    Also, this has already probably been checked, but make sure there's no buildup of debris blocking the radiator anywhere in the front, like between the radiator and condensor or the power steering fluid cooler near the bottom of the radiator (that's where it is on the first generation). I bought mine used and was surprised how much junk was built up in that area. I blew it out with a garden hose and high pressure nozzle, and was surprised how much junk ended up on the driveway under it.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    I should have also said that it still could be a clogged radiator. Flushing won't necessarily clean out a clogged radiator.
    I'd look towards the fans first though, especially the clutch fan if it has one. When it's idling and getting hot, the clutch fan should be running full on, actually "roaring" as some say, and the electric auxiliary fan or fans should be on.
  • lisajawealisajawea Member Posts: 4
    edited June 2011
    Sorry if this is repetitious but mine is a 2003 SLT, 5.9 liter, 4wd, and a/c. We have already flushed radiator, replaced thermostat with no luck. Today was 90 degrees and it overheated without the a/c on. Do they all come standard with a auxiliary fan or are some made different? There is not one on ours and since it is used, is it possible someone took it off? I know the front end was wrecked somewhat. Also it takes about 15-30 min. to overheat depending on the weather. I can turn the heater on and it keeps it from getting past the 3/4 line on gauge. It is pushing water out of overflow when turned off but doesn't really require adding more. The a/c definitely makes it alot worse but now I can't even drive to town 45 minutes without a/c and it goes above the middle line at least, every time. Thank you so much for any help, you guys are great!
  • donchil6donchil6 Member Posts: 10
    ours is a 2004 and we did all the things you did the auxilary pump is up front and i have heard some are in the back. We replaced the radiator cap and that worked for awhile. then we kept smelling radiator fluid and ssen a small leak everytime we parked. My son in law replaced the auxilary water pump it is NOT the water pump and when we replaced ours it was a dealer item only a friend that works at the dealer ship got it for 126.00 and we have had no problems at all since. it is not a fan that is what i thought but my durango came with what i call a second water pump but it is called the auxlariy water pump. Some people that work on cars could not belive it either My son inlaw put it on in a matter of mins in a parking lot. let me know if you have anymore questions [email protected]
  • donchil6donchil6 Member Posts: 10
    edited June 2011
    also dont use the orange antifreeze use the green you have that auxilary pump. It is a pump that pumps the water from motor over to the heater core on mine it is under the bottom of the car on the right side above the wheel. I have drove the druango everywhere now and it never overheats not even in 90degree weather
  • lisajawealisajawea Member Posts: 4
    edited June 2011
    So is it possible that Durangos with tow pkgs. only got the 2 pumps or do they all have them? I'll have to investigate where you are talking about cuz we could only find one. Same with fans, only one. Found out just now there are two types of fan clutches and one is more heavy duty than the other, also costs about the same, 50.00. Today I will pay more attn. to the fan sounds. My guy says he hasn't been hearing it roar, but he can't hear so I'll double check. I have to drive to town again today... We put in a 185 degree thermostat and thought it helped a tiny bit. Just put new water and antifreeze in after flushing yesterday with radiator flush. Went through the radiator 3 times to flush out and barely anything but clear liquid with no debris. It has 108k miles and we bought it in winter,with the problem I believe, but didn't find out till things started warming up more outside. Thanks for your quick reply. I have someone in town at the auto shop getting a manual as well and I gave him your info. thanks so much and any more info would be greatly appreciated!
  • lisajawealisajawea Member Posts: 4
    When idling and radiator cap is off, water flows through with no problems. Our radiator cap is a 21psi one. Isn't that too high? Thinking maybe it could be the clutch fan. Driving to town today, didn't go yesterday so will see how it behaves. Am leaving early before it's too hot outside.
Sign In or Register to comment.