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Nissan XTerra SUV

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  • In dealing with our 2006 Xterra which is a 4 wheel drive ( we couldn't take it in 4 wheel because the dealership put bad tires on it) we had to take our Xterra out in the Colorado winter weather in 2 wheel rear drive. It did ok because we have been driving in the snow for 25 years, but my spouse and I both agree that the 2006 Saturn ION (front wheel drive coupe) we own would have been better.

    Don't buy it if you intend on anything but dessert weather or are extremely experienced with an under performing car in bad weather.
  • The entire engine in the Frontier is the same as the Xterra. If you are having issues please contact those of us who are legally pursuing the issue with Nissan. TIGGGER96 @aol.com or Gsoulsearch22@aol.com
  • Be careful!!! If the clutch goes out; you also have to replace the hydraulic system/strip, the disc and the bearings, which is $2000-$2500. Because the new clutch systems now require replacement of all parts in order for the clutch system to run properly ( that is according to the service manager at GO Nissan, NorthGlenn, CO).

    You are in a bad situation unless you bought the car brand new, not CPO, and you have had it less than 12,000 miles and less than 12 months.

    -If CPO; you should not have signed their warrantee (read the fine print)
    *** Nissan will not cover their own faulty installation unless you make sure to make amendments to the written contract/ warrantee
    ***I have copies***

    - If used or CPO they should cover the same 12,000 miles/ 12 months on the clutch along with the general 36,000/
    *** see below:
    http://www.nissanusa.com/pdf/buying/2007_Nissan_CPOProcGuide0107-R4.pdf

    -If new owned; your are equally in jeopardy (please see blogs under Nissan 2006 clutch issues/ even 7,000 miles and under you are not covered.)


    Though Nissan will not cover the clutch under any warantee, they have had the 142 point Nissan CPO inspection done, which covers them, not you (how much?). You can have another dealer give you written documentation as to what Nisssan has neglected to do with thier suppossed "Certified Pre-Owned Vehicles". Though Nissan rarely if ever follows up on even their own protocall so you may still have a case, but they will not call you back.

    Your best bet, don't buy a Nissan "TRADE IT IN!" ( I have had 3 in the last 7 years, my mistake).

    Special note-
    ***According to Nissan; a warrantable issue is that of a "hard" part such as a "bearing" that goes out, of course they will tell you that the disc caused the bearing to go out not vice versa (even though you have to pay to replace the bearing).
  • Boris2Boris2 Posts: 177
    I can't figure out how all these systems work, how they work together and what happens when I disable the VDC. According to the manual even when VDC is disabled, the Anti slip still works which kind of makes disabling VDC useless, if I understand the systems correctly. Also, I think I saw somwhere (could even be the manual) that anti slip somehow works with the ABS breaks which doesn't make any sense to me as the system only engages when you're accelerating and not slowing down.

    I don't mind the system engaging when it's simply slippery outside - either system for that matter - but when I am specifically disabling the VDC to have the full controll of the the truck I want to make sure I have the full control and none of the additional help is provided.

    Also, does VDC work silently or it's somehow tied to the same ASlip light?
  • This is my first Nissan product and since I live in New England, unless I can correct the heating issue, this it will be my last! The heat on the feet only setting is inadequate. Does not supply enough heat to feet, since the heat continues to blow out of both the chest and defrost areas at the same time. There is absolutely no way to supply heat to feet only. I have had the car back to the dealer twice and keep being told that this is the "way it is" since it is an electronic control. In over thirty years of driving I have never owned any vehicle where it was impossible to have heat to feet only. Please advise!
  • No fun being cold. It has been single digits here with high winds for several days. I started driving in 1964 and have a medical condition making me especially sensitive to cold. The '8 Xterra keeps my feet comfortable after a few minutes of warm up.

    Whereas with our '5 Honda Pilot it was almost impossible to get my left foot and leg warm in the winter. Very poor design in my experience.
    '6 Jeep Commander had a well designed, flexible and balanced heating system. One of the best I have experienced.
  • I'm glad that someone has warm feet! However, does the heat only come out at the feet or does it also come out at the chest and defrost area (when set to foot only), on your '08?
  • Any input would be helpful. I have a 2001 XTerra SE and love it! Recently the control panel lights and the brake lights stopped working. Has anyone had a similar problem?
  • tinycadontinycadon Posts: 287
    I have an '06 and it does the same thing yours does, I set it to the feet only setting and it will come out the side vents and defroster. I guess I've just lived with it, but I do agree that it doesn't send enought heat to the feet!!!
  • I have an 08 SE..Heat also comes out at the outer dash vents by the windows when its on the foot only setting. I don't think its a major issue for me, but a little more would be a good idea. They are overdue for a major makeover, maybe in a year or two. Curious to see what nissan does...
  • jpjdjpjd Posts: 1
    Have maintained my 05 and love it until it accelerated and took us into a concrete bulkhead. I was almost to a complete stop, foot on brake, it revved up & accelerated and we flew forward about 8' into a concrete bulkhead and then back about 7'. The whole time my foot was on the brake. Airbags didn't deploy until I turned it off - then with a fizzle and didn't fully inflate, and seatbelts never engaged. Has anyone else encountered this? I've heard of it with Pathfinders, Jeeps, and Audis. The engine is now about 1' shorter than it was and all engine components are compacted together. I have asked the ins. to see if my rig has a black box in it as cars newer than 2004 with airbags do have black boxes. Ins. is going to repair it. Frame is bent in two places and they are cutting it out and replacing it. I am wondering just how safe it will be to drive and if it will happen again. Any thoughts would be most appreciated. Thank you!
  • Last night as I was driving down the freeway at 50mph, the left front wheel detached with a clunk. Was barely able to get it under control and by standing on the brake got it to stop. As soon as the tow truck lifted it, the wheel completely detached. All of the lug nuts were broken off. I had heard a light flapping sound for the two days prior, but it did not seem like a serious issue - I guess I was wrong on that one! I have never experienced such a disturbing event in 26 years of driving. My 5 year old daughter was in the back seat, and I am now doubtful of the safety of this vehicle. Carmax, where I bought this prize just 6 weeks ago is completely clueless as to how to fix it. Can anyone offer any help or advice?
  • I am seeing all these posts of the Xterra get 18 to 23 MPG. I bought a 2008 OFF ROAD model which has transfer case, locking rear differential, hill descent control and other mileage robbers the other models don’t have. I get 11 MPG on dirt road and 15 on the highway. I live in the Arizona hot desert rural community so I don't get city driving. I never had a six cylinder get such poor mileage. Every thing else I like. Runs good on the highway, good suspension and steering, plenty of power. For being a true off road machine, I say off road because it truly has a truck type ladder frame... only Toyota FJ Cruiser and the Xterra have ladder frames in SUV’s. The question I have, comparing apples to apples does every one with the OFF ROAD Model with the 4.0 liter 5 speed automatic get such poor mileage? I am starting to believe they changed something for 2008? At least for the Off Road Model???
    Thanks,
    Clay
  • Boris2Boris2 Posts: 177
    I have an '07 Off Road edition and I was getting 20-22mpg in the summer and 17-19mpg in winter, most likely due to different gas used in winter. Even with almost full tank used in 4WD during the snow storm I got 17mpg. The only difference is mine is 5M and not an automatic, but I don't think it should make such a huge difference.

    Didn't have a chance to try it off-road but I can see it getting 11mpg or less during some serious off-roading.
  • jms703jms703 Posts: 3
    I have an '08 Xterra Off Road with similar options. I can watch the needle move...heh heh. How are you measuring mileage?

    I'm in the SF Bay Area and am shocked at how much gas I am guzzling.
  • pdclaypdclay Posts: 7
    When I purchase gas I reset the odometer. Then you have the number miles driven for the next gas purchase which comes soon in the Xterra. I keep a calculator in the console and divide the number of gallons purchased into the number of miles on the odometer. That’s the only accurate way to measure Miles Per Gallon. The fuel gauge is very accurate and yes you can see it move quickly down. It can give a rough estimate when it reads half full is about ten gallons. I look at the odometer and usually have about 165 miles. Which is 16.5 MPG. Better not drive over 330 miles or you will be walking to the gas station.
  • 9babies9babies Posts: 1
    I can only get 12 mile a gallon on my xterra, is there something wrong with it.
  • thomaszthomasz Posts: 5
    I think Xterra is always in good condition.
  • asaasa Posts: 359
    It sounds like the previous owner or serviceperson hugely overtorqued the lug nuts or had replaced them with something from the hardware store. Proper torque is probably 98 Ft/Lbs.; your owner's manual will say for sure.

    You need to immediately check the other wheels. If you can't remove them with the lug nut wrench that came with the truck, they're probably overtorqued. Overtorquing can also warp the brake rotors. Scary stuff -- thank heaven you stopped safety! :surprise:
  • I've got a 2001 Xterra. 6 months ago, my truck was hit, and repaired at a body shop. Since then (and never before this event) the car alarm is ultra-sensitive.

    It goes off within 5 minutes of me locking the truck w/ the key fob. It will go off every 5-7 minutes, or maybe every 10 minutes. In recent weeks it will go off within 2 minutes of locking the truck. It is definitely getting worse.

    I no longer lock the truck, because I don't want to upset my neighbors with the constant alarms.

    I took the truck to mechanic who didn't know how to lower the sensitivity. I asked him is he could simply disable the alarm, but he wasn't sure about that either.

    Is there a way to just disable the alarm function without affecting anything else? I would just as soon be able to lock the car without the alarm feature. Or, how does one go about decreasing the sensitivity of the car alarm?

    Thanks in advance!
  • steveg64steveg64 Posts: 6
    I bought it new and it was fine till it hit 30k. I'm just not happy with it and I don't feel good about the warranty coming to an end. Also it sucks on gas and even that has got worse. Are all the 05's bad?
  • Boris2Boris2 Posts: 177
    Anything specifically (aside from gas mileage which will generally suck on everything larger than corolla nowadays)?
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,441
    My '97 Subaru alarm was acting up - I suspected the shock sensor, and it seemed mostly affected by cold weather. There is an sensitivity dial adjustment on mine. Assuming the factory setting can be adjusted, the dealer may know how to set yours for a lower sensitivity.

    I go so frustrated with mine, instead of tinkering with the dial settings, I disconnected the battery and pulled the siren out and clipped the wires. Now it sometimes doesn't want to crank if I don't hit "unlock" on the key fob or press the "secret" override button that mine has, so I really can't recommend this method. But it did shut it up!

    Good luck - durn alarms can really drive you boinkers.

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • mysportmysport Posts: 19
    Have 2006 with 22K on it and rust bubbles are forming just below the rear window. No accidents or anything like that. Not looking forward to resolving this with the dealer/Nissan - if the clutch fiasco we went through is any indication.

    Ugghh.
  • Boris2Boris2 Posts: 177
    What kind of gas do you put in XTerra? I've been fulling up with mid grade for the last years on all of my cars (including XTerra) and the dealer recently told me that all Nissans are designed for regular unleaded for the last several years.

    I know that it'd make only $3-4 difference per fuel up but it all adds up.
  • bogfuggerbogfugger Posts: 3
    my 05 offroad has the rust bubbles you mentioned,it also has rust on the spotwelds on bottom of rear lift hatch,where outside door skin and inside door structure is spot welded,have 2 cases with nissan 800 customer service active now,have contacted BBB,now looking into filing a lawsuit againt nissan and dealership,neither wants to fix problem.....i dont feel my 2005 should have rust on it
  • First off, I apologize for replying so late, however I had the exact same issue around the same time with my purchased brand new 2006 Off Road manual transmission. The only difference in my case, was I quit searching around the net because Nissan graciously decided to repair my clutch under warranty. I have a feeling it was because the service manager here in Fairbanks, AK really pushed for the warranty coverage. The flywheel, pressure plate, and clutch pad all had to be replaced at 21k miles. I noticed it failing well before I took it to the dealer, but I literally smoked the thing! They gave me the same spiel about how there are no recorded cases of 06 clutch failures and how it's probably because I'm hard on my vehicle. I did tow about 3500 lbs from Georgia to Alaska, but at no time did I ever "abuse" my clutch. I have been driving manual shift vehicles for 9 years now, 3 of them towing cars in a wrecker, so I know abuse to a clutch. I keep reading more and more of these posts on the net, which concerns me for the next 20k miles on this clutch. Whenever towing or in 4x4, I can smell the pad burning again, and despite taking it back to the dealer twice, they have yet to do anything about it. If it happens again I'm just going to replace it myself with an aftermarket clutch kit. Nissan is a [non-permissible content removed] for not doing anything about this for others; last Nissan I buy.
  • judy28judy28 Posts: 1
    Hi Mattyk19,

    I was so welcome to see your clutch problem, and as many others stated, it can't be my driving habilts as you have driven mannual your whole life. Me too. I find my 2005 Frontier clutch is bad at 47,000 miles. The dealer says it is not covered unless they open it up (with my authorization for $400 if not covered) and it is a spring.For a truck that is supposed to be rated for a towing capacity of 5000 punds plus what a buch a nonesense. My dealer has reffered me to nissan. I was wondering how you made out with your situation.
    Thank you, judy
  • dzubadzuba Posts: 159
    Considering buying this for my 16yr old...........w/94K miles on it for 5K. Not sure if I will as it does not have side air bags. I used to have a 98 Maxima that ran forever and was very reliable. Any thoughts on the reliability of this model, and specific issues/parts inherent to the 03 Xterra?
  • Just recently posted my issue under the Xterra clutch problem forum. I know yours occured a few months ago. Have you made any progress.
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