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Chevrolet Aveo Vibration Problems

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Comments

  • Considering how much mark up there is at a garage, that seems average. I paid $150 for both control arms at rockauto point com. My mechanical skills are only average and they weren't hard to change. There is one bolt on the driver's side that has an interference issue. You can't remove it without raising the transmission slightly. With the front end on jack stands I used a floor jack to put a light pressure on the bottom of the transmission and that allowed the bolt head to sneak past. Just make sure to use a scrap of wood as a cushion between the jack pad and the tranny. Other than that, you'll need a ball joint splitter (cheap item at Autozone, maybe $10) and hammer. And you'll need an offset 17/19 box end wrench. A socket won't fit on the ball joint bolts with them installed.

    Use the floor jack to put a light pressure under the ball joint to keep them from spinning in their socket while you tighten them with the wrench.

    Now that I've said all of that...it didn't fix the problem on my car. I've changed almost everything. Control arms, tires, rims, rotors, brake pads, etc. My tie rod ends are good but I'll be replacing them over the weekend just for the sake of changing them.

    Good luck.
  • I changed the tie rod ends today. That didn't help a thing. You can add those to the list of things I've changed earlier. See post #33 above.
  • I know what you mean! Although I haven't had as much trouble as you have, I've had enough to last me a life time! This was also my first new car and wish we would have purchased something else instead. I have yet to find someone to say anything positive about this model. Chevy won't stand behind any repairs, the dealership we bought it from won't stand behind their repairs. I really feel like selling the doggone thing for junk! Right now, we're dealing with the right front tire wobbling like heck. We've been dealing with the tire sensor going berserk for almost a year now. The dealer says we shorted it out by overinflating it, but they are the ones that did that when they were working on other repairs and refuse to admit blame, so they won't cover the cost of the part/labor needed to fix it. Also, everytime we have a repair that SHOULD be covered under the warranty, it isn't and we end up paying anyway. Don't know why we ever bought the warranty...
  • I'm sorry to hear you've been having such a rough experience with your dealership, girlknight. If you would like to work with customer service on these concerns, please send us an email with more information (also please include your name/Edmunds username, the last 8 digits of your VIN and current mileage, and the name of your involved dealership).

    Regards,
    Sarah
    GM Customer Service
  • The engine is now rattling...fuel injection doesn't always kick in when it should...so puttering...they've already replaced the entire throttle body....after only doing part of it the first time. I still hear noise every time from the throttle body (upper right side of the engine when sitting in the driver's seat). I only have 40,000 on this and this is the worse car I've ever owned. I'm now looking to take it in for the 4th time this next week and I'm going to refer them to this site for the same issues with your cars. Chevrolet has done a poor job making this model. They should recall the cars having the issues and give us new ones that will work. There is no way there should be all these problems for no reason in such a new car...that was also bought new from a Chevrolet dealer.

    Mark
  • s_krens_kren Posts: 3
    I dont think my experience with my Aveo will help anyone but I feel like a lot of you do, disappointed with my car. My car is 2006 automatic 4 dr hatchback. Currently 165000 km's on it.
    I bought my car brand new. I am lucky if I get 400km/per tank of gas.
    Ever since I got it when I have people in the back seat it makes noise. But of course when I took it in multiple times to the dealer while still under warranty it wouldnt make the noise.
    Does anyone elses backlights where the shifter is get really hot to the touch when you have them on? Now i just keep mine on low.
    I have had to have my thermostat changed twice. My hatchback doesnt open anymore due to something inside with the handle (due to poor design inside door, rod slipped out of something)
    I think something to do with shocks is going or already gone.
    This past August my rear brakes seized and I couldnt drive my car. Had to have it towed.
    Just had my car in because my caliper seized on my rotor and my car was shaking because of it.
    Car is making a noise sometimes and I thought it was a belt so my mechanic changed my fan belt but didnt stop the noise. Tried getting my mechanic to listen for it when he had my car last time but it didnt make it for him.
    I have never had to replace any of my back lights but have had to replace my headlights already, 3 times I think.
    Spring or something broke in my shifter so I have to make sure the shifter is pushed all the way over in park to be able to get my key out. But since it has been so long that I am used to doing so.
    My rear windshield washer fluid doesnt work but I think the line is just clogged.

    It is decent running though. Doesnt make a lot of noise (atleast not yet) sometimes slow to go up hills. Not sure what the "Hold" button is really for but I do use it often. My mechanic tells me I should consider getting my timing belt changed soon, that it might be the cause of the noise I hear sometimes. Of course with that is the water pump as well. :confuse:
  • rm125chrisrm125chris Posts: 6
    edited March 2012
    When you get your timing belt changed, make sure to have the mechanic inspect the idler pulley for a dry bearing. That is common at your mileage. They're not cheap, but as the bearing wears out it can ruin a timing belt whether the belt is new or not. Changing one without the other can be kind of pointless at your mileage point unless it's been changed in the past. I checked mine at 110km and it was marginal. It will get changed with the next belt change for sure.
  • cthruercthruer Posts: 1
    Don't know about the rest of the problems but I can help you with the hatch back. Take the panel off to get access to the piece that keep popping off. It's pretty easy to figure out. Mine came off a few times til finally I put a zip tie around it and it has been on ever since.
  • elvisthepelviselvisthepelvis Posts: 6
    edited February 2013
    The "Hold" light was flashing on my 2005 Chev Aveo and the engine was sluggish. What happens is that when theres a miss fire or a vacuum problem the engine decreases in RPM and will make the transmission feel like its in first gear and wanting to shift when in all reality it was just a "Map Sensor" at $80 from Auto Zone. DONT assume its a transmission problem. You will get all kinds of crazy codes that will lead you on a wild goose chase and no one computer scanner will tell you exactly whats wrong, only a sense of direction. The "Map Sensor" is black and the size of a zippo lighter located on top of the engine with 3 wires going to it held down by one bolt. Both my "Engine and Hold Light" were illuminated but after installing the NEW map sensor then disconnecting the battery for 10 min and then reconnecting the battery and getting the Auto Zone guy to reset the computer. The vehicle ran perfectly with NO trouble meaning both the engine and hold light idiot lights went out. Why disconnect the battery? Because some auto stores wont reset your computer with their scanner because the dealerships and auto mechanics started raising cane because they were losing business charging you $300 to replace a sensor that cost only $20 to $80 to replace yourself in less than 5 minutes. Who else knows what falsified repairs they will pencil whip while their at it. Remember the dealership pays their employees a commission on repairs and most of these guys are in their 20's and not necessarily some older grey haired guy. In these times as you know, grey haired guys are an insurance liability. In short, if I had a problem with my car, I would always change a couple of sensors first, then plugs, plug wires, disconnect the battery to wipe out the codes and then re hook up battery and start the car to see what it does. If all else fails after youve done your self help repair & then only then do you take it to the garage for repair. Its Not good money after bad because its one less part you wont have to replace in the future. See the dealership, can swap parts to troubleshoot where as me or you and or the repair garage cant do that. The garage will simply say that you had more than one bad part because they cant return electrical parts after they've installed them. Sounds crazy I know but then again its all about saving money.
  • Simply take a water spray bottle and spray both the coil pack and plug wires while the vehicle is running to see if there is any arcing. Note* do this only at night because the sun light during the day will not let you see the arcing. If it is arcing then it will look like a miniature lightning storm. Replace plug wires and coil pack as needed.
  • Usually the "Hold" light will flash and the car even though its an automatic transmission will feel like its stuck in 1st gear even though its in regular drive. The reason is if the engine is running sluggish and not producing enough power then the computer will not allow the transmission to shift properly. Fear not, its not a transmission problem. Its either a vacuum leak, faulty plugs or plug wires, an O-2 sensor and or a map sensor. A scanner code is misleading and only puts you in a certain direction. Do you pay the garage $300 to $400 to repair the vehicle or do you change parts on your own hoping you get it right. First off, any parts you replace are gonna be cheap because you bought them yourself for YOUR car where as the garage / dealership will mark them up 3 times plus labor. Always self help first. Some garages / dealerships will unnecessarily replace parts because they cant return them once installed so they will tell you the problem was more than one part. In the case of my "Hold" light staying on. It ended up being the "Map" sensor. Sure I bought plugs and plug wires that weren't the problem but the better gas mileage paid for it anyway and I was only out $40 vs what a garage would've charged at $250. Get the point?
  • With time. my 2005 Aveo handling got worse and worse. First remember that the factory tires, struts and shocks are crap. I bought the mid range tires, struts and shocks and ALL vibration went away immediately. Go figure. Just because a vehicle is new doesn't mean its gonna drive like new.
  • I have been very frustrated with the fact that i have put in so much money in to a car that was bought with 7 miles on it and only has 62K. I have replaced the Rack and Pinion Steering, all tie rods, Struts (twice), rotors Twice, bought two brand new sets of tires, 4 new rims, balanced numerous times and also aligned it a few times and the car still vibrates and rattles inside. I really would like for Chevy to do something about this situation.
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