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Honda Civic Basic Maintenance Questions

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  • After many years of buying tires, I eventually learned that not all tires are made equal and some are just noisy to begin with ... yes, i know i am a slow learner!

    To your question, I would say check out tirerack.com and lookup your exact tire and see the survey test results. That will tell you how your current tires stack up against other and whether that means you to look for replacement in the long term. good luck
  • What is the general recommended milage to replace the serpentine belt of a Honda Fit?
  • Excerpt from Honda Factory Service Manual for Honda Civic 2001 LX sedan

    "For compressor replacement, subtract the volume of oil drained from the removed compressor from 130 ml (4 1/3 fl oz, 4.6 lmp oz) and drain the calculated volume of oil from the new compressor: 130 ml (4 1/3 fl oz, 4.6 lmp oz) – Volume of removed compressor = Volume to drain from new compressor.

    NOTE: Even if no oil is drained from the removed compressor, do not drain more than 50 ml (1 2/3 fl oz, 1.8 lmp oz) from the new compressor."

    Hi All,

    Please read the factory excerpt above and give me some advice on how much oil to put back into my newly replaced compressor. I am confused from reading the factory service manual as to how much oil to put back into the system.

    I drained a total of 32mL from my old compressor. My new Honda compressor came prefilled with 130mL of oil from the factory. So does that mean the new compressor will get 32mL put back in??? The confusion starts with the added "Note." If I follow the Note instruction then (130-32=88mL) 88mL is too much to be drained since 50mL is the maximum allowed and therefore the new compressor to be installed should get 80mL and not 32mL. Or do they mean 80mL only if the compressor is completly dry which would not apply in my case???
  • No judgments please, and only minor lectures - I feel awful enough as it is.

    I have a 06 Civic just shy of reaching the 25K milestone. I used to commit via public transport so which explains the lower mileage. However, this reason I've been lax on regularly scheduled maintenance outside of oil changes whenever the maintenance minder indicated so.

    My question for the pros here -- I want to have a dealer do my first maintenance on it, but I'm not sure if I should ask for maintenance schedule A, B, C or what.

    Thoughts? Much appreciated.
  • jet10000jet10000 Posts: 656
    My question for the pros here -- I want to have a dealer do my first maintenance on it, but I'm not sure if I should ask for maintenance schedule A, B, C or what.

    Well there is no C. Only A & B and 1 thru 5. You should have them do B which is:

    Replace engine oil*1 and oil filter
    Inspect front and rear brakes
    Check parking brake adjustmen
    Inspect tie rod ends, steering gear box, and boots
    Inspect suspension components
    Inspect driveshaft boots
    Inspect brake hoses and lines (including ABS)
    Inspect all fluid levels and condition of fluids
    Inspect exhaust system#
    Inspect fuel lines and connections#

    Have them do #1 which is the tire rotation. And #2 which is changing the air filter and the cabin air filter. If you want to save a bunch of money, you can pick up the filters from the auto parts store and do #2 yourself. It's super easy. The engine air filter lid is only held on by clips which can be flipped off by hand---you don't even need a screw driver. The cabin air filter, is behind the door of the glove box and is replaced fairly easily as well.

    Then you'll be all set and you can follow the maintenance minder from there on out.
  • saqisaqi Posts: 1
    There is a green light in the dash board which says econ on it what does in mean when its on?? :confuse:
  • Awesome. 'ppreciate it.
  • sandman_6472sandman_6472 Coral Springs, FLPosts: 2,659
    Have a '06 LX with 25k also and have replaced the fronts pads once but never have had the brake fluid changed yet. This service wasn't recommended when I had the front brakes done so can I assume that it's o k? They probably would've recommended it if it needed it as this same mechanic has worked on our cars for years now.

    The Sandman :sick: :shades:

    2014 Hyundai Tuscon SE/2005 Mazda 3s/2008 Hyundai Accent GLS/2009 Nissan Versa SL hatch

  • The manual for my new '09 Civic says to replace oil, cooling fluid, window washer fluid and brake oil with only Honda approved materials. Which of these is absolutely necessary to be replaced by Honda only brands and which can be off the shelf materials?
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,715
    Note it says "Honda approved" fluids, not Honda fluids. As long as the fluids, e.g. oil, meet Honda's specs, you're fine. The owner's manual should give you the specs, if not check with your dealer's service department.
  • Sandman,

    Maybe it's just me, but I'm wondering why your pads needed to be replaced at 25k. Maybe it's where you live... Anyway, regarding the fluid, I think you're fine. You can check your owner's manual to determine when the brake fluid needs to be replaced. It should be considerably longer than 25k.
  • sandman_6472sandman_6472 Coral Springs, FLPosts: 2,659
    Guess I must be hard on the brakes but I've definitely cut back on them. But the car is 3.5 years old now. Since they were replaced, I'm definitely easier on my brakes and will be very careful in their usage from now on.

    The Sandman :sick: :shades:

    2014 Hyundai Tuscon SE/2005 Mazda 3s/2008 Hyundai Accent GLS/2009 Nissan Versa SL hatch

  • I have an '09 Civic Hybrid with 25K miles on it. My maintenance minder recently flashed A123, which totals nearly $500. While I drive a lot, it seems early compared to my past Hondas to have the 2 (replace filters, check drive belts, alignment) and 3 (replace transmission fluid, flush brake fluid) sub services completed. Any advice out there whether I can wait to have these done, or if I should just bite the bullet? On subcode 2, I can probably replace the filters myself; though, do the drive belts really need to be checked at 25K after 9 months of driving? Thanks.
  • jet10000jet10000 Posts: 656
    To replace the filters after 25,000 miles is typical. The engine air filter is super easy to replace yourself. If it's like my 2008 EX-L, you just flip the clips up pull the cover off and drop a new one in. I also replaced the cabin air filter as well. Got both items from the auto parts store. The cabin filter came with instructions and it was pretty easy to change as well. Goes in a slot behind the glove box. So that should save you some money if you do it yourself.

    The description for 2 on my EX-L also says inspect drive belts. They shouldn't charge you too much for that. As it's just an inspection and not an actual replacement if you feel they're being unreasonable, you can take it somewhere else for the inspection. I don't see anything in 2 for alignment? What alignment is it saying you should do? Wheel alignment?

    3 seems very early to be showing up. I have 55K miles on my Civic and I've yet to see 3 show up. I would question them on the transmission fluid needing to be changed this early. I looked at the previous generation civic's maintenance schedule and it didn't need tran fluid changed until 120K and then every 90K after that.

    As for brake fluid, it's not a part of 3 on my maintenance description. It just has a footnote to change it every 3 years.

    Again, I know you have a hybrid whereas I don't, so the minder description could be different. But perhaps, some of this info is helpful in making your decision.
  • NE 1 know where it is? Do I need special tools to change it?
  • jtischjtisch Posts: 9
    I have a 2008 Honda Civic Hybrid. It just turned over 12,000 miles.
    I had an offer from the dealer for $5 off on an oil change that was due to be done.
    I called and they said it would be $29.95. With the $5 off it amounted to $24.09. Fine.
    I made an appointment and took it to the dealer.
    The service person told me I needed the 10,000-mile checkup. She rattled off a list of things that needed to be checked. The cost....$147. I said WHAT???
    Then I told her to just do the oil change.
    She said OK.
    I went into the waiting area.
    She came out a few minutes later and told me I needed special 0-20 oil for the hybrid bringing the cost to $61.
    Again I said WHAT? She told me that's the only kind of oil I can use. I was stuck with a $61 bill for an oil change! I feel I got ripped!
    Anyone else experience this?
    jt
  • jet10000jet10000 Posts: 656
    She came out a few minutes later and told me I needed special 0-20 oil for the hybrid bringing the cost to $61.
    Again I said WHAT? She told me that's the only kind of oil I can use. I was stuck with a $61 bill for an oil change! I feel I got ripped!


    It is my understanding that the Civic Hybrid requires 0W20 oil. You can confirm this in your owner's manual. Supposedly it supports the better gas mileage.

    0W20 oil is significantly more expensive than typical oil. I've heard that you can go longer between oil changes with 0W20 oil. So while it may cost more, it may even out due to longer oil changes.

    As for the 10,000 mile checkup, review your manual about what maintenance is required so you know before going in there whether they're trying to charge you for something that is unnecessary. The hybrid is more sophisticated than a typical car. So I'd definitely follow the owner manual's schedule. Though you can always shop around for the best price for the items that are needed at each interval.
  • Comment on the dealer's "10,000 mile checkup". With Honda's MM system now, such arbitrary "x-mile" checkups no longer exist. If you are being offered one, it is a dealer-created package of services related to what cars perhaps at one point used to need, but have no relationship to the maintenance demands of current Hondas. To put it bluntly, it is a ripoff preying on those who want to be conscientious about maintaining their cars, but don't want to follow or don't trust the manual.

    I figured this out with my own dealer. When I came in to get the first free oil change they offered after I purchased the car, they gave me a nice maintenance schedule telling me to come in every 5000 miles, with each "package" of services costing at least $75. Never mind that so far MM has told me to get oil changes every 6300 miles or so (2009 Civic EX -- I've just had it come on for the second time at about 12,700 mi), and that I don't NEED all those other services "packaged" into their 5000 mile checks.

    It infuriates me that Honda allows their "official" dealers to push services / packages which don't correspond with what the Honda manual / MM system requests be done. I would love to get done EXACTLY what MM tells me to do, but I can't because the dealer insists on jamming me into THEIR packages at exorbitant markups.

    Moral of the story: follow the manual / MM system for proper maintenance of the car. The dealers may indeed be most expert at actually fixing your car when something goes wrong, but they also work very hard to sell you scheduled maintenance services you don't need.
  • sandman_6472sandman_6472 Coral Springs, FLPosts: 2,659
    I've looked in all my manuals and can't find any information about what maintenance issues need to be done at certain mileage intervals. Help! I've got 25.5 k on the clock with 30% of oil life left. Haven't swapped out the brake fluid yet, eventhough my front pads were replaced a few months ago. The manual did say every 3 years to do the swap, so I will need to gewt that done. But not sure with the tranny fluid. Have already done the air filter & pollen filter, so good there. Rotate the sneakers on a regular basis also as well as the 4 wheel alignment...done evry 5 months on a 3 year policy.

    Is there somewhere to download this schedule? The Honda website was totally useless. Thanks in advance all as I'd like to get the brake fluid done as soon as possible.

    The Sandman :sick: :shades:

    2014 Hyundai Tuscon SE/2005 Mazda 3s/2008 Hyundai Accent GLS/2009 Nissan Versa SL hatch

  • jet10000jet10000 Posts: 656
    I've looked in all my manuals and can't find any information about what maintenance issues need to be done at certain mileage intervals.

    There is no published information regarding that. You just have to follow the maintenance minder. Obviously once you go from your current 30% of oil life to 15%, you'll get your new set of codes.

    I have 55,000 miles on my Civc and I've only gotten codes A,B and 1,2 so far. No 3,4, or 5 yet.

    In regards to the transmission fluid, as a comparison, in the previous Civic generation which did have a published maintenance mileage schedule it said:

    120,000 mi Replace transmission fluid(A/T), then replace every 90,000 mi/144,000 km/5 yrs.
  • Having owned a current-gen Hybrid, and now with an EX, I'll share what I've learned about the MM over the last few years...

    - Except for the OLM, all other codes are on a fixed mileage basis (true for all Hondas, not just the Civic). I've read on another site that the non-hybrid Civic does have an OLM for the transmission fluid, but as I don't have enough miles on the EX yet, can't confirm this).

    To see what's going to be coming up (I saw a service advisor do this, as well): Perform the reset procedure up to the point of where the codes come up - but do NOT finish the reset procedure. You'll see what will be displayed at the next 15% interval.

    Hybrid:
    - The '3' will come on every 30K (note when I say 'every 30K', I don't mean exactly at 30,000 miles, but at the '15% interval mark closest to the 30K mark'.
    If you want the best service life for the CVT, change this every other oil change (for me, this was about every 15K). Note that the interval is shorter than the non-Hybrid below.
    - Air filters will come on every 30K.

    Non-Hybrid (except Si; I haven't owned one, but it'll probably be similar to the LX / EX:
    - '3' will probably display at close to the old time / mileage intervals - if the first one was at 90K, you'll probably not see the '3' until at least 60K - maybe all the way to the full 90K. However, I would change this out sooner. Z1 ATF isn't that bad, price-wise, compared to a new tranny, and the only thing you're doing is a drain/fill (there is a filter, if you want to change it, but it's not considered to need service generally over the life of the car - I'd change it at some point, especially if it's an inline one, like the CVT has (no, I never changed the CVT filter).

    These others are from memory...
    '4' - coolant (?) You'll see this near the old mileage interval (100K?)
    '5' - spark plugs / timing adjustment - same as '4'.

    Note that 'B' will always follow 'A', and the '2' will always follow '1'. This is because the '2' is the same service as '1', except replace the oil filter & rotate tires. 'B' is the 'extra' maintenance checks like brakes, e-brake, etc.

    - If you accidentally reset the MM, you can reset it a second time (drive a few miles first) to get back on the correct A / B; 1/2 schedule. You will not interfere with the 3-5 light schedules (unless you're close to 30 / 60 / 90K, etc). Obviously, you don't want to drive too many miles before resetting it the second time, so that it's easier to remember how much life you have left with the oil. You cannot set the OLM to a specific percentage (without the HDS - (Honda scan tool), and maybe not even then) - it will always reset at 100%, so if you accidentally reset it at 80%, you're going to have to remember not to let the monitor get down below 20% (maximum) before changing it again.

    - The OLM is rated for conventional oil, and is considered to be pretty accurate; some people have had analysis done on their used oil, and the results were generally consistent with the OLM rating. Thus, if you use synthetic oil, rest easy - at the interval that the OLM gets to 15% (varies by driving conditions (& trimline - the Hybrid has a smaller sump and will get to 15% more quickly), you'll have enough of a cushion with the synthetic that you'll be OK if you run the OLM close to '0%' Do NOT let the OLM run to '0%' and drive past that point - 'negative' miles will start counting up, and this value is stored in the ECU - if a warranty issue ever comes up, the technician can retrieve this data.
  • sandman_6472sandman_6472 Coral Springs, FLPosts: 2,659
    With the 1st three oil changes, I did them when it got to 20%, thus no codes came up and all the dealer recommended was changing out the air/pollen filters and a rotation. Even when I had the front pads changed, they said the brake fluid was fine and no change was necessary...my mechanic did this work. I do the rotations at the tire store where my mechanic is.

    I'm now going to let the monitor get down to 15% to see what it says needs to be done. But with just under 26k on the clock, I'm betting I'll just need the oil/filter swap done unless it says something else. Just to be on the safe side, is there any other fluids I should change out now? I've decided to just stick with the synthetic dino blend as I don't think my driving style really calls for synthetic and I feel better doing the swap twice a year. I plan on keeping this car another 8 or so years and with retirement coming within the next 12 months, I'll be doing lesss driving in retirement.

    Thanks for answering my concerns.

    The Sandman :sick: :shades:

    2014 Hyundai Tuscon SE/2005 Mazda 3s/2008 Hyundai Accent GLS/2009 Nissan Versa SL hatch

  • jet10000jet10000 Posts: 656
    I don't think the air & pollen filters needed to be changed at every oil change. Usually you can go at least 15K miles before that needs to be done. Longer in less dusty situations. Both of those items will show on the maintenance minder however.

    There shouldn't be any other fluids you need to change at this time if you have had just 3 oil changes. And yes, it's best to wait that extra 5% to get down to the 15% so you can get all of the messages from the minder.
  • sandman_6472sandman_6472 Coral Springs, FLPosts: 2,659
    Have only had them swapped out once now...sorry for the confusion. Yes, I will wait till I get to the 15% mark from now on...I usually have gone twice a year changes with all our other cars so I'll just have to remember that the car will decide for me. My wife & older girl want to change out the oil/filter at the 3k mark which is to often...I prefer doing it between 4500 & 5k miles usually.

    Will be taking in the wife's Mazda 3 in tomorrow morning for it's change, as I can get the car and the dealer sent us a $12.95 coupon in the mail recently and since we're just about at 4400 miles, why not. The tire place does the rotations for free so she can go anytime without me.

    The Sandman :sick: :shades:

    2014 Hyundai Tuscon SE/2005 Mazda 3s/2008 Hyundai Accent GLS/2009 Nissan Versa SL hatch

  • jet10000jet10000 Posts: 656
    I think the way Honda's are engineered, you really don't have to change the oil that often. I remember the schedule on my 2003 Honda Civic was like an oil change every 10,000 miles if you can believe that. For severe conditions it was like every 5,000 miles. Even though I didn't drive in severe conditions, I usually followed that schedule.

    With the maintenance minder on my 2008, I think it usually hits between 5,000 and 6,000 miles for me.
  • I have also 98 Honda Civic at over 300,000 miles. You could probably do (4) the spark plugs and gasket youself and save. It's the labor that's high. I haven't done the other stuff (1 and 3), but had my mechanic did (2). Dealers always charge alot. I would look to a good mechanic for price quote, since it's an older car. Take care of that civic and it'll last. My is a 5speed manual.
  • thebeanthebean Texas!Posts: 26
    I have a 2002 Civic EX sedan with 63,000 miles on it. I have owned it since new and have followed the "severe" maintenance requirements for the most part, since I live in Texas and it's HOT here in the summer. At my last service, the dealer (who I trust since they have been good about not "upselling" me on stuff) said I should replace the timing belt/water pump/other belts since the car is 8 years old, even though I haven't met the mileage yet for a replacement.

    I'm wondering if this is just "revenue enhancement" for the dealer, or if I really need to consider this. I'm semi-retired and only work about 6 months out of the year. The rest of the time, the car is only driven around town. I hate to spend the money if this is early replacement, but I also don't want to screw up the engine if the belt breaks.

    Is this too early for timing belt replacement? I plan to drive the car for several more years since it's been fairly reliable.

    Thanks in advance for any thoughts.

    thebean
  • flamingo2flamingo2 Posts: 1
    edited October 2010
    hello... i have honda civic 2008 and i have light that came out and wont go away ..can u help me what that light mean!! light is TPMS... they checked my car and said my tires r fine everything looks good.. but that light wont go away
  • jet10000jet10000 Posts: 656
    If you took it to Honda, it's up to them to figure out why the light won't go away.
  • I also have a low mileage 2003 Civic as does "thebean" (message #188). The recommendation from the mechanic was similar- replace the timing belt because of the time, not the miles. I am reluctant to change it out early for the benefit of revenue enhancement.

    Any additional thoughts out there?

    Hondacherry
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