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Ford Windstar Problems

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Comments

  • karneticskarnetics Posts: 2
    I have a 99 windstar 8.0L. It is doing the same thing..
  • karneticskarnetics Posts: 2
    Here is my problem.. I was driving along with no problems.. Car is in great shape, new plugs, wires, and had coolant system work done 2 days before. All of the sudden my van just stop all warning lights came on. When I check under the hood, I notice I had no coolant. I check for any leaks and did not find any. I put water in the coolant jug and the car just drunk it up. I waited for about 4 hours for the car to cool and tried to start it.. It started but it was ruff and smoking out the exhaust pipe. I added one full jugg of coolant and then a half of jugg. I started the car again, it started, and didnt sound as ruff, but it was still smoking out the back.. None of my warning lights were on. But I did here the sound of oil bubbling within the head where the rockerarms are located.

    Anybody know what could be going wrong??
  • mlpntrmlpntr Posts: 61
    I'm assuming the smoke was white?
    Sounds like a blown head gasket. Don't drive it or you'll blow the engine. Take it to Ford and tell them to fix it under the recall.
  • shadow281shadow281 Posts: 1
    Hi everyone i'm new here, i am from Houston Texas, I have a 1998 Ford Windstar Van and i have read several of your complaints and they all sound eerily familiar, what did i get myself into buying a Ford? My new problem is that it goes in reverse, and it will go in drive, but it feels as if the parking brake is stuck or something, the rear driver's side wheel isn't turning, i hardly ever use the parking brake, and i have ABS, so why do the brakes appear to be locked? Has anyone else ever encountered this?
  • racwizardracwizard Posts: 1
    Hi I am trying to replace my alternator on my 1998 winstar 3.8 and I can't Juggle the bel;t on what else do I have to loosen
  • aceladyacelady Posts: 10
    What years are included in the recall?

    My van sucks the coolant, but as long as I keep the overflow tank filled we are fine. It seems like it sucks more down running the heat than the air.

    There are no noticable leaks and I have checked.
  • I had the exact same symptoms on my 98 Windstar and your instructions worked great. FYI for anybody else: The FORD part number is: F68Z-19986-AA. Paid $26.95 from the dealer here in AZ.

    Thanks again for the info.

    Pete
  • dude10dude10 Posts: 3
    I have a 2002 Windstar LX Deluxe, 3.8 liter engine, with 22,000 miles on it (not a typo, 22,000 miles). It has been fine since new, but I noticed recently that the car will not redline. It gets to about 4200 rpm then it kind of stutters until you let off the gas. I do not remember this from anytime before. Is it a problem or just some kind of governor?
  • mlpntrmlpntr Posts: 61
    It probably just wants you to drive it more often. I haven't checked to see if mine red lines but since it's a 95 I don't think i want to take that risk.
    Why are you trying to red line it anyway?
  • I am having some vibration issues with the transmission in my 99 windstar

    When I approach 60km/h the vibration starts and at 70km/h the vibration gets worse but if I go faster to 80km/h or above the vibration goes away. Also, when I get to 70km/h with the vibration happening I hit OD OFF, the transmission shifts and the vibration goes away. If I drive around for a while the vibration will come back at about 70km/h with OD OFF. Also when I am driving with the OD ON and the vibration starts I hit OD OFF and nothing happens but most of the time when I do hit OD OFF the problem goes away. What am I looking at here, the torque convertor? or is the 4th gear the problem?

    The transmission fluid is fine, changed 5000km ago

    Thank you, DTF
  • 97star97star Posts: 6
    Actually I have several things going on right now. Foremost is the problem that my '97 will almost stall when the cooling fans activate when my A/C is on. It runs great otherwise. Any thoughts?
  • mlpntrmlpntr Posts: 61
    Don't run the AC?
    I would have your alternator, battery, and serpentine belt checked.
  • 97star97star Posts: 6
    No A/C? I'll tell my wife that one! Funny you mention the serpentine belt. I just replaced it with the Ford JK6-1036 that it calls for, and it does not fall inbetween the lines on the tensioner, it just lines up with the upper line. I should have the altenator checked. I've replaced it twice. At $200, Im glad I bought one with a lifetime warranty, and it's the easiset thing to replace on the engine.
  • mlpntrmlpntr Posts: 61
    I agree that the alternator is one of the easiest things to change. It was easier than changing the bulb for the headlight.
    When was the last time you changed the alternator? You might want to go ahead and test the voltage on the battery. It could be starting to go bad.
  • mlpntrmlpntr Posts: 61
    I just had the tailgate latch break on me. I was on a weekend trip when it happened. Funny how I leave town and all these little things break. The rearview mirror fell off too.
    OK, the tailgate is an easy fix. pull off the panel on the inside. I had to crawl back there (lay the rear seat down first) and pull it from the inside since the door wouldn't open. There is a little yellow plastic clip that attaches to this little rod and snaps into the handle. There is your problem. Make sure it's snapped into the handle and then put it around the rod and use a screw driver to help latch it. If it's broke then you will need to replace it. Mine wasn't broke, though, just cam undone. I'm assuming the heat caused it.
    Then you're ready to reattch the panel. Pull all of the yellow push screws out of the hatch itself and ttach then to the panel. You might need a screw driver and pliers to make it easy. Then you snap the panel on all around and your done.
  • mlpntrmlpntr Posts: 61
    Check out this site and file a complaint for everything that has repeatedly gone wrong. Transmissions, sway bar, electrical, check engine light. Everything. With enough complaints Ford will have to do something.
    http://www.mycarstats.com/
  • 97star97star Posts: 6
    I replaced the altenator about 2 years ago. I pulled it today and the auto parts store said it failed. Got the new one on. haven't had the stalling problem. In the mean time while i had the belt off, i measured the idler pulley. It measured 89mm. I replaced it with the correct size, 82mm. You never know what you get when you buy used. The reason I hadn't noticed the tensioner being wrong is that the old belt was 1" longer, so the tensioner was in the correct spot. That helped my belt problem, now my tensioner is in the correct place, with the correct belt. The battery checked in at 12.77 volts.
  • mlpntrmlpntr Posts: 61
    Very cool. I'm glad it worked out for you.
    By the way, I'm a 32 year old single mom. I learned a whole lot about cars because I was tired of paying the mechanics to rip me off. The only time my van goes into a shop is when I am physically unable to do the repair myself. Most mechanics hate when you tell them what the problem is and how much you're willing to pay to fix it. Especially when you where a dress. LOL
    I also love it when they try to tell me something else is wrong and I tell them that I already checked it and it checked out fine.
  • jaeasonjaeason Posts: 1
    It came off. No one admits to abusing it (naturally). It doesn't look broken, just no longer attached to the seat. Anyone know how to hook it back up? Looks like a threaded post is supposed to go in the seat, but how to get a nut on it???
  • 97star97star Posts: 6
    I think you are very cool. I can appreciate women working on mechanical things. My mother was the first women in our state to be licensed for clock repair. I know plenty of guys who won't get their hands dirty. As many problems as todays cars can have, and if you have money to spend, repair bills can add up quickly. It's seems as if I'm always learning. On to my next problem.
This discussion has been closed.