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Ford Windstar Problems

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  • I just found this site. So I know this is too little too late however, I guess you know by now that over 80% of Windstar Trans are going. Mine did at 36000. This is the worst car I have ever owned. It has turned me against Ford. Until now I have only ever owned fords. I will be 40 this year and when I was 18 my first car was a 1955?Ford Fairlane. Then when I was married in 1986 our first car was a 1977 Ford LTD with only 41,000 miles on it. It was like brand new. The owner had taken very good care of it. We paid $1200.00 cash for it. To this day it is still the best car I ever owned. After that it was a Mercury Station Wagon. Then My Aerostar. We put 190,000 miles on that van. It is still running and I did not replace the tran until 98,000 miles and have never replaced the engine. Other than normal things that come along with high milege vehicles like thermostats,water pumps,an alternator and a few belts it has been great. And it only burns a quart of oil every 6000 miles. I did have a problem with the U-joint and brakes until I got it repaired by someone other than Ford. However this Windstar has done me in. It has been a Nightmare. It now has 61000 miles on it and the tran is slipping again. I purchased the extended warranty to 75,000 miles. If I had not, I would have traded it in the first time the tran went. It is not the only problem we have had. We have had electrical problems and the battery had to be replaced the first week we had it. I guess that should have been a clue, DAH!!!! The brakes squeak intermittently, though nothing is wrong with them. It is pretty good on gas. However, my Aerostar was exceptionally good on gas. I was getting about 26 mpg hgwy and 19 city. I did however put premium in it.
  • Yes, If you yell loud enough and call the most important person that you can get in touch with they will fix it. As well they should after even making a van like the Windstar. I was once a die-hard Ford fan. Now, I doubt I will ever own another one. And for 22 years since my very first car that is all I have ever owned.
  • My husband is an Electronics Technician and he said the radio connectors were not made to fit correctly therefore they make that crackling, popping? sound. We are trying to get our 2000 back in to Ford for the 50 th time. We can't role down either of the power windows and the front power door locks do not work. This Van has been a Headache. If it was not for the fact of the warranty. We would trade it in. Also we just paid it off 3 months ago.
  • I almost forgot, the heat makes the connectors expand therefore they fit better. The cold makes them shrink therefore they fit worse.
  • Sorry, I guess I had an extra bowl of stupid this am. I also forgot to mention the tie-rod problem you are having. If it is the same as ours. It is tied in with the electrical problem. It has something to do with the suspension system and how the van turns corners. Or how the computer tells it to.
  • Hi All , Just wondering if someone can give me some info on how to replace the speed control sensor relay. I know i had a leak under the master cylinder which in turn ate away the plastic coating on the wiring harness below. (Which thanks to the people here I was able to locate) after I lost my speedometer/ odometer/ air conditioning ( fuse # 10 ).... anyway i have ordered the speed control relay and I am wondering how difficult or easy it is to replace. Any tips would be greatly appreicated ... Thx
  • Hi I''m new to this site but it seems alot of interest in here so here I go. I have a 95 Winstar 200k miles. It is running real rough @ idle but once it warms up(3-5min.) it runs fine, I am getting codes of
    p1407 EGR no flow detected,
    p1131 lack of upstream heated o2 sensor switch lean bank1
    p1151same as above but bank 2
    p0171 bank 1 system too lean, and
    p0174 bank 2 system too lean. I cleared the codes and took it for a drive and once I got back ck'd codes again with no codes showing. I dont want to throw parts at it unless needed. any ideas on where to start?
  • does anyone know what that box is called we took it out to buy the part but, don'ty know what to call it except the buzzer for the door ajar. Help its driving us crazy :mad:
  • I let a local mechanic change the oil ( 1st time I didn't do it myself) in my '01 Windstar and he over tightened the drain plug, possibly cross threaded, the flange doesn't look parallel to the seat. I've tried many ways to remove and my next move is to remove pan to make it easier to work on. Anyone have any hints, or tricks?

    Thanks
  • About the clicking sound, this is for the problem associated with not being able to go between hot and cool with the front panel controls. I don't know anything about crackling or popping that's caused by the connectors for the radio. My connectors going to the radio seemed to fit good by the way.
  • Hello,

    I have just joined the "Intake manifold gasket $600 replacement" club. This included replacing a "updated" valve cover, isolator bolts, intake gaskets and vacuum lines on my 2001 3.8 Windstar.
    I am going after Ford to cover all or portion of the bill for this design flaw. At some time in our upcoming discussion, I would love to hear from any other memebers of the gasket replacement club to reinforce my claim. I am prepared to go all the way to a court date.
    I am in Canada, though all Windstar owners comments would be helpful.
  • Hello,

    I have just joined the "Intake manifold gasket $600 replacement" club. This included replacing a "updated" valve cover, isolator bolts, intake gaskets and vacuum lines on my 2001 3.8 Windstar.
    I am going after Ford to cover all or portion of the bill for this design flaw. At some time in our upcoming discussion, I would love to hear from any other memebers of the gasket replacement club to reinforce my claim. I am prepared to go all the way to a court date.
    I am in Canada, though all Windstar owners comments would be helpful.
  • Been there on my '99 about 3 years ago. Ford told me tough, although a design defect, it was 14000 miles over the warranty. Ford dealer said he was embarassed by this, and offered to fix it for $200 with the rest coming from a slush fund he gets from Ford for "customer relations". I took him up on his offer. $600 Canadian sounds like a "deal" if you have to pay for it yourself.
  • I may be late in responding, but my van's problem was a tension pulley that had to be replaced. I paid almost $200 at the dealership. It might be your problem .
  • Jeff,
    I'm on my 3rd alternator for my 2002 with over 75000 miles.
    First one went at about 60,000 miles ,no X warranty 350$ at a local shop. They claimed overuse of front and rear A/C, but I suspect my wife jump starting a friend's old diesel P/U too many times.
    Shop claimed the 2nd one must have had a fault and failed JUST shy of one year later, so they replaced for labor only (40$).
    The vehicle give almost no warning when the alternator in going.
    It just runs a little rough for a few hours (engine sounded like it was working extra hard), the battery light comes on and it dies.

    No additional trouble other than needing to get a sliding door lock re aligned.
    Jon
  • tmp888,

    I've tried all of them up and down and does not grab any gear. No other code shows up. Thanks!
  • I am having the same problem with my 2000 Windstar, 74k miles on it.
    I have replaced the EGR sensor on the back of the motor, and the EGR valve on the front. The sensor was a real pain in the neck.

    If you get any great advice, please let me know as this is getting very frustrating. I have never owned a vehicle that I had to drive around with a CEL on all the time, and it really bugs me.
  • Okay I need some help for about a year now my 2000 Windstar has had the engine light on, we did a test on it, it said the # 1 piston was misfiring so we changed the plug wires it is still not on the heater has not worked for a couple of years, air conditioning does, heater blows out cool air now today I stopped at my daughters house for about 2 minutes I came back out to the car is was running fine all of a sudden it made a loud clicking noise and, and shut off, when I try to start it it just makes a loud clunking noise, and really shakes the car, any one have any idea what it could be?
    it is a 3.8. My husband wants to know if it is a free wheeling engine. The engine acts like it is locked up.
  • I posted #2035 re my same problem: leaking manifold gasket, new cover, isolator bolts etc.
    Did you go after Ford for the repairs? I've tried but so far only polite kiss offs. I am going all the way to small claims court to get them to pay for defective engineering. If it comes to that, I'd love to document your and anybody elses story regarding the intake manifold problem.
    Regards, Peter
  • My 2000 Windstar has the same problem. We drive around with the CEL on all the time. Usually, the code indicates that an O2 sensor needs to be replaced, but if we replaced one everytime that CEL came on, we would never stop replacing them. In the last two weeks, the Windstar has been idling rough and, as described in the original forum message, after it has warmed up about 5 minutes, it's fine, but still idles rough. In fact, it has nearly died on me during those initial warm up 5 minutes several times. It would make more sense to me if this was happening in the winter, but it's summer and is at least 72 degrees outside as an early morning temp.

    If anyone knows what the real problem is with our van, please let me know. I am equally frustrated and don't want to throw away money on multiple oxygen sensors with the hopes that we will eventually, through trial and error, solve the problem.
  • Ok, I bought a 96 Windstar and now the ABS light comes on. At first, it came on at start up and then shut off. Maybe a few miles down the road, it came on and stayed on. Now the Brake light (red light beside ABS light) comes on when applying brakes and then goes off. I have fluid, and my husband isn't inclined to fix this at all. So I need help. I need to fix this. Ford dealer wants $74 just to run Diagnostic and then who knows what to fix problem. I have read on ABS systems, I need to know how to run on-board diagnostic myself, if there's a way, a tool to buy, and how to get ahold of the NVRAM codes so that I can fix this problem. If anyone can help, it is appreciated. Like I said, husband is no help! Also, is it true that if ABS is not working, regular brakes will still work? I know about the steering control issues and the locking up of tires. But I am a cautious woman driver and I look out for idiot drivers.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    "I need to know how to run on-board diagnostic myself, if there's a way, a tool to buy, and how to get ahold of the NVRAM codes so that I can fix this problem."

    You need an ABS capable scanner such as a Snap-on MT2500 to extract any stored trouble codes and watch datastream into the processor.

    " Also, is it true that if ABS is not working, regular brakes will still work"

    Yes.
  • I have a 95 ford Windstar and the rear door is stuck. Does anyone know how I can get it open?
  • Hello. New to this site and I need help. Though my 2000 Windstar still runs fine, lately, after driving few minutes and I go idle for a long time, the temperature shoots up and the engine makes a cranking noise that sounds like its running out of air. Any idea what's going on with this van? My friend suspects its the temperature control but I need a second opinion. Please help. Thanks.
  • Hi, Can anyone tell me how to remove the grille in my 2003 windstar? Thanks.
  • Hi group. I have a 2000 Windstar that only blows cold air into passenger area even when the heat is on all the way. Both hoses in and out of heating core get hot so I ruled out a heating core problem. My AC kicks on even when the climate control dial is set to vent or defrost but friends tell me that is normal. If it was a thermastat stuck open wouldn't it blow hot air? Could it be an electrical problem or a relay switch? I have asked for much advice and nobody seems to know for sure. Any help here would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Glenn
  • Ok, I priced the scanners. Whoa!! It'd be best to let ford dealer look at it for $74, unless you recommend how else I can do the diagnostic myself. Something cheaper than Snap-On at $3400.00
    AutoZone had one for $35 but only went up to 95 models. Like I said, I have a 96 model and need some help.
    I know I may be asking alot, but please, take into consideration, I am a woman, young at that, and I have a useless husband! PLEASE ANYONE HELP!!!
    Thanks!
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    If I were you I would just pay the $74.

    By "useless husband", I assume you mean he does not work on cars. I am one of those too. But I take the cars in when they need service, not my wife...I hope your husband is at least enough of a man to be the one who takes the vehicles to the dealer, or wherever, when they need service. :) ;)
  • brd3brd3 Posts: 6
    elizabeth9353,

    I have a 2002 Windstar and have been experiencing the same problem for months. I had the car looked at by a very good local shop (Not a Ford Dealer) and he was able to determine that the actual components (speed sensor or whatever, I have forgotten what he said the part was) were working even though the warning light was on. He also assured me that if the brakes would continue to work even if the ABS system did not. We took my son to college 14 hours away through the Smokey Mountains without an incident. Although I will admit I was thinking about the "Brake Warning Light" being on during the 1/2 hour drive down a 6 % grade decline coming out of the mountains.

    Interestingly enough my dashboard cluster has the "Airbag Light" on even though the affected part has been replaced once at the dealer (It was the seat belt buckle so I know it is working even though the systems says it is not working). The "ABS" and the "Brake" light is on even though I had the system checked. The best is now the "Check Engine Light" is on. Probably the oxygen sensor. Obviously the guy that made the part to run the dash board cluster is the culprit. I don't feel like taking the car to a dealer for a "Carte Blanche" parts replacement. I really think the problem for Ford is when somebody gets killed because of these defective parts that the dealers can't really fix. I was told by the dealer after they kept the car for 2 days about the AirBag that they had talked to Ford and Ford had no idea how to stop the 'AirBag Light" from coming on even after the part was replaced. The dealer told me to"Just be carefull". Gee, I never thought of that.

    So what if the Brakes really are bad and my wife and kids get injured because no one can fix it properly and we've been told to drive the car but there really is something wrong. I guess I only have the "Battery" light and the "Oil Pressure" light left to go on before the dash board looks like a Christmas tree.

    Good Luck.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    you write:
    >>
    Interestingly enough my dashboard cluster has the "Airbag Light" on even though the affected part has been replaced once at the dealer (It was the seat belt buckle so I know it is working even though the systems says it is not working).
    >>

    is it possible that at one time, it was the seat-belt buckle, but now something else? for example, wonder if it is your clock-spring, the device that maintains electrical continuity to the bag as the wheel is turned from the far left to the far right and back and forth...
This discussion has been closed.