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Ford Windstar Problems

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Comments

  • jabaprijabapri Posts: 3
    Reply to 177.

    Out of curiosity was it raining when it stalled?

    Did the check engine light come on? Is it on?
  • jabaprijabapri Posts: 3
    Was that reasonable price was to fix? Did it solve the problem?
  • dnspauldnspaul Posts: 3
    no it wasn't, but it is for sure the transmission, and it is going to cost 1700.00 to fix it and we have only had it a month so this really stinks.
  • mlpntrmlpntr Posts: 61
    Welcome to the wonderful world of Ford. From the sound of it I would say a complete rebuild? Go with the custom parts verses the Ford parts. It's a little more expensive but cheaper than having done again in a year.
  • aceladyacelady Posts: 10
    Pop the door panel off on the driver's side. The panels are attached with christmas tree clips that pop into the door frame.

    Disconnect and spray the connection for the lights (will be directly under the door lock) with contact cleaner, available at most hardware stores for less than $10.00.
    Contact cleaner is alcohol based and will evaporate quickly.

    Reconnect the light connection and wrap the connection with electrical tape to prevent future corrosion.

    Pop the panels back on.

    Spray all the door contacts on the frame of the car with wd-40, rear, sliding, passenger and drivers. This will clean up any dirt and help prevent corrosion from coming back.

    I did this myself with my 96 and it took care of the problem. It took me 3 hours to take things apart and 30 minutes put things back together once I figured things out.
  • njanneynjanney Posts: 2
    Have you had any luck yet with advice on the stalling problem? We have had the same problem with our '96 but only when the weather is hot. I'd appreciate knowing if you have any answers or diagnoses.
  • njanneynjanney Posts: 2
    Did you ever get an answer to your stalling situation of 2002? We are having the same symptoms but are not interested in just dumping the van at this point. Thanks for any input you can give.
  • keesie101keesie101 Posts: 2
    Warrenty on rebuilt trans was one year, unimited miles. However....the problem persisted
    ( no over drive when warm), they had the van for the whole month of October last year, could not figure it out and simply gave up!! Blamed it on the computor, needed to be reflashed. Not so according to the dealer.
    So this van is ok for in the city, or about 20 min on the highway. Any buyers? Next stop Toyota dealer.
  • mlpntrmlpntr Posts: 61
    Installed a new computer is about $300
  • joekamjoekam Posts: 3
    I jack the car up, removal the 5 lug nuts and the wheel does not want to come off without a significant amount of struggle. Is there a way to prevent this seizure? Just where is this binding?
  • cpassmorecpassmore Posts: 1
    we are on vacation right now and half way thru the drive to North Carolina, we starting experiencing the same problem. Can you tell us how you made out with this? thank you
  • littlemomlittlemom Posts: 5
    The same light is on on my dashboard. My van (2001) is running fine with this problem. I had the diagnostic test run and it showed that I had a vaccuum hose loose. I haven't had it fixed yet, and that has been several months. I don't know if you have an AutoZone or an Advance Auto in your area, but here (in Montgomery, Al) they offer a FREE diagnostic test if your engine light is on, but I think the dealer is giving you a run around on that price...The Ford Dealership here charges only $70 for the Diagnostic test..
  • treywindstreywinds Posts: 5
    my '99 windstar-fluid backing up through the resorvoir;
    problem solved with new steering rack/pinion including labor-$450.(dealer guesstimated $800 to start)also, no more noise when turning left or right.happy for now,until i decide
    to have the abs light diagnosed.
  • banigansbanigans Posts: 1
    Have you resolved this problem and, if so, how? I have a 2003 WS SEL whose power sliding doors have been acting up off and on. Sometimes one won't close--pops back open--and sometimes one won't open. Has anyone else been experiencing this type of problem and, if so, how were you able to fix it?
  • shaniraeshanirae Posts: 1
    We've had our van since 2001 and have had no major problems until the last six months. First the washer fluid wouldn't pump. Then the lovely door ajar that only goes off when you reach a certain speed limit. The passenger window won't budge with either control. The rear window wiper won't run at all. I can deal with the little things, but now the blessed van is possessed. It started by jerking with acceleration. Now, it stalls when we turn left. I've read the other posts addressing the different problems, but if someone could give me some insight as to why the van doesn't like left-hand turns, I would be a very happy camper. :confuse:
  • rugmankcrugmankc Posts: 133
    Go to my post #2109 and see post #2116 reply. You can replace this item yourself. Good Luck.
  • My Wife and I just recently purchased a 2002 Ford Windstar limited with 50,000 miles on it, today while driving on the highway it would hesitate and sputter at around 55. So bought a bottle of fuel injection cleaner and topped off the tank thinking maybe the fuel lines might be a little dirty, but the more we drove today the more we noticed it at different speeds, when it "sputters" my rpms jump about 500 rpms depending where they are already at, but just as quickly as it hicups it corrects itself, I am not a car guy but i am not stupid to cars either, could this be a transmition problem if so will our 30 day powertrain warrenty cover that any help would be appriciated! :cry:
  • mwinkmwink Posts: 1
    Upon starting my car thsi morning, after a weekend oil change and air filter change - the engine revs uncontrollably. I cannot get it off the very high idle. any help is appreciated. thnx.
  • mlpntrmlpntr Posts: 61
    Run it into a brick wall before you spend thousands to fix it just to have it break again.
  • 63ford63ford Posts: 2
    I was driving our 98 windstar (has 123,000mi) loaded down bringing kid home from college, crusing at 80mph (good old Montana)when suddenly the van began to lose power. RPMs dropped to @1500, speed came down slowly but could not increse power when trying to accelerate. Pulled over, shut her down and let sit 5-15 min. restarted. Took off no problem, ran at 75mph for @15min started problem again. Had this happen several times over the last 70 miles till I got it home. Also I could put her in N and rev up with no problem. ANY IDEADS??? Seems that it maybe some sort of sensor getting hot and causing the power band to drop. Tranny would not kick down to lower gear when trying to accelerate either during this problem. Been really lucky with this Van no real problems. :confuse: ">
  • pdbeckerpdbecker Posts: 3
    My problem is exactly what the title suggests. My battery developed a short which, in turn, burned up my alternator. Both were replaced with new units, but now the car hesitates randomly. It will run fine for a while and then hesitate a few times or even shut off completely. I cannot restart while in utility mode. Only once I completely turn the key off will it restart, and then it starts fine. The mechanic claims that I have to drive for 60-70 miles before the computer module will "relearn" all the car's systems again. Is this true, or is he giving me a line of garbage?
  • jimskinsjimskins Posts: 11
    My '02 Junkstar has a problem where the emergency brake intermittently engages. It sometimes happens during normal driving but mostly in the mornings when backing out of the driveway. There is a loud squeal and the brake light on the dash comes on. You can tell the brake is engaged because there is resistance when moving. To get it to release, we have to pull forward, turn off the engine, set and release the brake a couple times, and then restart the engine. Not sure what shutting it off and on does (maybe helps with the light) but the brake engaging is a real problem. It has been to the dealer numerous times and they cannot fix it. They just replaced the master cylinder and the next day, same problem. Has anyone else experienced this?
  • socalrlsocalrl Posts: 3
    did you ever resolve the problem? I now have the same issue with my 2000 Windstar.
  • iulian07iulian07 Posts: 1
    Did you get any resolution on this?
    I experienced these problems twice on my 2001 Windstar.
    After cooling off everything seemed to be fine

    In both cases it was a sticky humid summer day.
    After stopping the car for 5 minutes (picked the kids from daycare), the engine would stall, tire pressure indicator would go on (remained on). Looks like the onboard computer is acting crazy when it is too hot outside.

    Thanks
  • pdbeckerpdbecker Posts: 3
    I ended up taking the van back to the dealer I got it from and they found the new alternator was spiking in voltage. Another new alternator fixed the problem. I was able to return the first one for my money back.
  • mrsheadmrshead Posts: 1
    Our 2000 windstar idles fine but 1500rpm it starts to shimmey and vibrate. It doesnt do it below 1500rpm or above. The check engine light came on and the test said a misfire on cylinder #2 P0302. We have changed all the sparks plugs and wires twice. The fuel pump, coil pack and MAF Mass air flow sensor. Any ideas what could be wrong? Any way to check the injectors without it costing a lot of money?
  • jdpiercejdpierce Posts: 1
    This has been a long standing problem for us and would really like to get it fixed...we have spent tons on good tries, but no one has figured this out. It is like you can go 300 miles with no problem and then it starts...have to stop and restart to reset things and then it is just a matter of time till it happens again. Please let me know if you find out why high temperature causes loss of power in the 1998 For Windstar.
  • rumplerumple Posts: 2
    Hello,

    I've got a 96WS GL 3.8. Have managed to avoid the Ford and shop rip offs so far. Yes, my van had problems.

    1.speedometer jumping at 25k dealer replaced under warranty, would of cost about $500. Second time at 52k. I purchased a complete insturment cluster (reconditioned) for about $80 dollars and had the miles set to match the old one. replaced it myself. It's been good every since. Now has 171k. ;)
    2. Engine check light on, misfire on #3 cyclinder. 75k Misfiring, no power, stalling. Took it into a shop. They told me it was bad fuel injectors. $800. I didn't buy their story. Did some research, bought a top end (intake) seal kit. Found the entire intake, EGR systems plugged with carbon. Along with one of the vaccum actuators inop on the front intake rail. Gasket set $43.00 Vaccum actuator $60. 2 cans of carburator cleaner, bottle brush and half a day in my garage and it runs like a champ :D .

    3. Transmission shift problems, have always kept up on changing the fluid and filter about every 30k. But it started to act up with shifting. Replaced the speed sensor on top of the transmission (under the rear exhuast, beneath the heat blanket)Its a very tight fit but it can be done. Also changed out the shift selector on the left hand side under the hood where the shift cable hooks to the transmission. Was told by several shops you need a $2300 transmission. My parts cost under $100 and I did it myself. :P
    4. Clunk in the left front on a rough road. Plus a loud clunk when shifting into gear forward or reverse. Took me awhile to figure it out. But then realized it was only happening while the vehicle was in motion and a load on the transmission. We could not duplicate the sound bouncing up and down on the suspension. It is the famous "Ford" oil filled tansmission mounts. Great for vibration dampening in the short term. But once they get old and worn they leak out the oil. Then instead of dampening the shock, or securing the stress load on the drivetrain they just bottom out. Causing the CLUNK! Transmission mounts $46 dollars each. 2 hours, No more Clunk! :P :D
    5. Can't help the brakes, they wear they get replaced. Yes they wear fast. I think it's just a weight and balance issue. These vans are not small vehicles, they are somewhat areo dynamic in shape. So it does take some brakes to slow them down. Just part of life.

    Hope this helps some of the other indstar owners.
    Rumple.
  • mlpntrmlpntr Posts: 61
    I hate to tell you this but it's not always that simple with these vans.

    1. Haven't had that problem.

    2. Already had the work done on it that you did and didn't fix the problem for long. First was misfire on cylinder #2 next was #4. Turned out to be a bad computer. Rep[laced it and it runs fine now.

    3. Had the tranny rebuilt and the common clutch piston sheer was the issue. My father rebuilt it so I'm confident he was telling me the truth since he earned only my gratitude.

    4.Sway bar was busted.

    5. Buy better brake hardware. Use your emergecy brake every time you park because this is the way Ford has designed them to adjust the back brakes.

    6. Ford sux. Buy a Chevy or Dodge next time. That's MY plan.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    5. Buy better brake hardware. Use your emergecy brake every time you park because this is the way Ford has designed them to adjust the back brakes.

    Yeah...I sure don't see rapid brake wear. Our front brakes have lasted about 50,000 mi, they have been replaced twice at Ford dealer. Original rear brakes lasted about 95,000 mi. Recently replaced at same time as second set of fronts.
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