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Ford Windstar Problems

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Comments

  • my3girlsmy3girls Posts: 1
    The ABS light is coming on intermittently. My local garage says it's a relay. They used to be able to replace relays but now it's a whole part replacement. Anyone have any ideas? I'm told it's safe to drive even with the light on.
  • mlpntrmlpntr Posts: 61
    Could be arelay but these wonderful vans are famous for the ABS light (among other things. Ther is an issue with a ground wire that causes the ABS light to come on and Ford offers a fix kit for $10.00. Save your money.
    It's safe to drive with the ABS not working as long as you remember how to brake a car before ABS was a feature.
  • mlpntrmlpntr Posts: 61
    Driving for a year with CEL on was very, very bad. You probably needed an injector. Check the oil and smell it for gas.
    Chances are you blew the engine.
  • remi96remi96 Posts: 5
    Mine has been going on and off for two years and i dont see any reason to spend anymore money than I already have on this car. i dont see any difference in the braking either ;)
  • aaron01aaron01 Posts: 3
    so your saying your speedometer,o-dometer,air cond,abs light was all disfunctional and your valve was stuck causing fluid to leak on a wire and short everything out,no offense but either your disfunctional or an all day sucker cause whats the chances of a wire being exposed without its protection on,and leaking fluid on that same exposed wire,theres a sucker born every minute you either work for Ford or just trying to be funny,thanks for the humor,if your serious you got took because this is definately a relay problem or brake switch prob of some sort which is much easier and cheaper fix,two hours to find it took them maybe two minutes incase you havent noticed alot of these people have this prob,while you where waiting for your vehicle for the other hour and 58 minutes,they where ordering lunch,ON YOU!!!!!!!!!Ford Windstar-SUCKS NEVER AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!useless van good for its looks and thats it
  • basem37basem37 Posts: 4
    Hi.. i have the airbag and engine light is not on when i start the car so i check my car on the computer and it's show code and i need to know how to fix it if anybody knows please thanks
    code : B2499 (COURTESY LAMP OUTPUT Failure) :cry:
  • mlpntrmlpntr Posts: 61
    Could be a fuse or the bulbs.
  • mlpntrmlpntr Posts: 61
    OK, it's 12:17 in the afternoon. I've had 3 hours sleep (just woke up) because from 9pm until 9am I was changing a fuel injector on a 95 Windstar 3.8L. All I want to know is who designed this stupid van? Not only do you have to remove the alternator and bracket. To do that you have to remove the serpentine belt. Then you have to remove the throttle body. Oh, the serpentine belt was so much fun even with the special tool. Well, to remove the throttle body you have to remove 4 bolts that you can't get to unless you are a 1/2 inch tall elf. Then once you get all of that off you have to remove the fuel pressure regulator. Yeah, that was a treat. Then you can't even lift the plenum all the way off because there is something blocking it that you can't remove. Oh, and to get to all of that you have to take off the antenna and wiper arms so you can remove the upper and lower cowl. So I was stuck with not being able to get the plenum all the way off and had to change the injector with about a 1/2 inch clearance. Try and remove the clip with that much space. So now the injector is in and it's time to put it all back togather. It was much easier taking it apart.
    I will never change another injector in this stupid van. I will pay someone $500 to do it for me just to save myself the blood(and lots of it), sweat, and tears. I even had the man helping but his arms were too big to reach some of the bolts. He's 250lbs. Even my arms (and I'm 5'4" and 120 lbs) were slightly too big (that's where the blood came from). So unless you are a very small 5 year old with an genius knowledge of cars I would suggest paying the shop.
    12 hours for ONE lowsy fuel injector.
  • basem37basem37 Posts: 4
    :confuse: i don't know i see many people dosne't like ford. but the same time i see too many people have ford cars. and i know ford not a cheap cars . so i don't know who should i beleieve people have ford and they love it or people hate ford :confuse: :confuse:
  • aaron01aaron01 Posts: 3
    let me tell you something about Fords-the f-150,mustang and a few other are decent but my 2000 windstar,I paid $8,600 beginning of year and had to put a new tranny,battery,now this speedometer,odometer,ac,abs light-disfunctional probs,the van looks and rides good but if you want a Ford,I got one for you cheap $6500 will buy it and Ive got well over $10,000 in it and thats recently so if you want a Ford Windstar with a new tranny buy mine ,BEFORE IT GOES OUT AGAIN!!!!!!
  • karneticskarnetics Posts: 2
    I have a 99 windstar 8.0L. It is doing the same thing..
  • karneticskarnetics Posts: 2
    Here is my problem.. I was driving along with no problems.. Car is in great shape, new plugs, wires, and had coolant system work done 2 days before. All of the sudden my van just stop all warning lights came on. When I check under the hood, I notice I had no coolant. I check for any leaks and did not find any. I put water in the coolant jug and the car just drunk it up. I waited for about 4 hours for the car to cool and tried to start it.. It started but it was ruff and smoking out the exhaust pipe. I added one full jugg of coolant and then a half of jugg. I started the car again, it started, and didnt sound as ruff, but it was still smoking out the back.. None of my warning lights were on. But I did here the sound of oil bubbling within the head where the rockerarms are located.

    Anybody know what could be going wrong??
  • mlpntrmlpntr Posts: 61
    I'm assuming the smoke was white?
    Sounds like a blown head gasket. Don't drive it or you'll blow the engine. Take it to Ford and tell them to fix it under the recall.
  • shadow281shadow281 Posts: 1
    Hi everyone i'm new here, i am from Houston Texas, I have a 1998 Ford Windstar Van and i have read several of your complaints and they all sound eerily familiar, what did i get myself into buying a Ford? My new problem is that it goes in reverse, and it will go in drive, but it feels as if the parking brake is stuck or something, the rear driver's side wheel isn't turning, i hardly ever use the parking brake, and i have ABS, so why do the brakes appear to be locked? Has anyone else ever encountered this?
  • racwizardracwizard Posts: 1
    Hi I am trying to replace my alternator on my 1998 winstar 3.8 and I can't Juggle the bel;t on what else do I have to loosen
  • aceladyacelady Posts: 10
    What years are included in the recall?

    My van sucks the coolant, but as long as I keep the overflow tank filled we are fine. It seems like it sucks more down running the heat than the air.

    There are no noticable leaks and I have checked.
  • I had the exact same symptoms on my 98 Windstar and your instructions worked great. FYI for anybody else: The FORD part number is: F68Z-19986-AA. Paid $26.95 from the dealer here in AZ.

    Thanks again for the info.

    Pete
  • dude10dude10 Posts: 3
    I have a 2002 Windstar LX Deluxe, 3.8 liter engine, with 22,000 miles on it (not a typo, 22,000 miles). It has been fine since new, but I noticed recently that the car will not redline. It gets to about 4200 rpm then it kind of stutters until you let off the gas. I do not remember this from anytime before. Is it a problem or just some kind of governor?
  • mlpntrmlpntr Posts: 61
    It probably just wants you to drive it more often. I haven't checked to see if mine red lines but since it's a 95 I don't think i want to take that risk.
    Why are you trying to red line it anyway?
  • I am having some vibration issues with the transmission in my 99 windstar

    When I approach 60km/h the vibration starts and at 70km/h the vibration gets worse but if I go faster to 80km/h or above the vibration goes away. Also, when I get to 70km/h with the vibration happening I hit OD OFF, the transmission shifts and the vibration goes away. If I drive around for a while the vibration will come back at about 70km/h with OD OFF. Also when I am driving with the OD ON and the vibration starts I hit OD OFF and nothing happens but most of the time when I do hit OD OFF the problem goes away. What am I looking at here, the torque convertor? or is the 4th gear the problem?

    The transmission fluid is fine, changed 5000km ago

    Thank you, DTF
  • 97star97star Posts: 6
    Actually I have several things going on right now. Foremost is the problem that my '97 will almost stall when the cooling fans activate when my A/C is on. It runs great otherwise. Any thoughts?
  • mlpntrmlpntr Posts: 61
    Don't run the AC?
    I would have your alternator, battery, and serpentine belt checked.
  • 97star97star Posts: 6
    No A/C? I'll tell my wife that one! Funny you mention the serpentine belt. I just replaced it with the Ford JK6-1036 that it calls for, and it does not fall inbetween the lines on the tensioner, it just lines up with the upper line. I should have the altenator checked. I've replaced it twice. At $200, Im glad I bought one with a lifetime warranty, and it's the easiset thing to replace on the engine.
  • mlpntrmlpntr Posts: 61
    I agree that the alternator is one of the easiest things to change. It was easier than changing the bulb for the headlight.
    When was the last time you changed the alternator? You might want to go ahead and test the voltage on the battery. It could be starting to go bad.
  • mlpntrmlpntr Posts: 61
    I just had the tailgate latch break on me. I was on a weekend trip when it happened. Funny how I leave town and all these little things break. The rearview mirror fell off too.
    OK, the tailgate is an easy fix. pull off the panel on the inside. I had to crawl back there (lay the rear seat down first) and pull it from the inside since the door wouldn't open. There is a little yellow plastic clip that attaches to this little rod and snaps into the handle. There is your problem. Make sure it's snapped into the handle and then put it around the rod and use a screw driver to help latch it. If it's broke then you will need to replace it. Mine wasn't broke, though, just cam undone. I'm assuming the heat caused it.
    Then you're ready to reattch the panel. Pull all of the yellow push screws out of the hatch itself and ttach then to the panel. You might need a screw driver and pliers to make it easy. Then you snap the panel on all around and your done.
  • mlpntrmlpntr Posts: 61
    Check out this site and file a complaint for everything that has repeatedly gone wrong. Transmissions, sway bar, electrical, check engine light. Everything. With enough complaints Ford will have to do something.
    http://www.mycarstats.com/
  • 97star97star Posts: 6
    I replaced the altenator about 2 years ago. I pulled it today and the auto parts store said it failed. Got the new one on. haven't had the stalling problem. In the mean time while i had the belt off, i measured the idler pulley. It measured 89mm. I replaced it with the correct size, 82mm. You never know what you get when you buy used. The reason I hadn't noticed the tensioner being wrong is that the old belt was 1" longer, so the tensioner was in the correct spot. That helped my belt problem, now my tensioner is in the correct place, with the correct belt. The battery checked in at 12.77 volts.
  • mlpntrmlpntr Posts: 61
    Very cool. I'm glad it worked out for you.
    By the way, I'm a 32 year old single mom. I learned a whole lot about cars because I was tired of paying the mechanics to rip me off. The only time my van goes into a shop is when I am physically unable to do the repair myself. Most mechanics hate when you tell them what the problem is and how much you're willing to pay to fix it. Especially when you where a dress. LOL
    I also love it when they try to tell me something else is wrong and I tell them that I already checked it and it checked out fine.
  • jaeasonjaeason Posts: 1
    It came off. No one admits to abusing it (naturally). It doesn't look broken, just no longer attached to the seat. Anyone know how to hook it back up? Looks like a threaded post is supposed to go in the seat, but how to get a nut on it???
  • 97star97star Posts: 6
    I think you are very cool. I can appreciate women working on mechanical things. My mother was the first women in our state to be licensed for clock repair. I know plenty of guys who won't get their hands dirty. As many problems as todays cars can have, and if you have money to spend, repair bills can add up quickly. It's seems as if I'm always learning. On to my next problem.
This discussion has been closed.