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Ford Windstar Problems



  • dani3boyzdani3boyz Posts: 3
    Same thing happened to me while I was still in warranty. I'd only get a few gallons in and not only would in kick off as if it was full.... but it would SPEW gas out at me like a fountain! :( I believe the dealer replaced the gas tank but seeing as I wasn't paying for it, my memory could be failing me. :blush:
  • jessie3jessie3 Posts: 6
    :) Im laughing at your reply... I finally had a REPUTABLE mechanic today replace my power window motor and the one he took out was an after market piece of junk, so my now EX mechanic was really ripping me off. I hope all is well with this one now. The ABS n brake lights, well I am gonna ignore them. The brakes seem fine to me, the same as they always were. I wouldn't know the ABS from normal brakes anyway, then again I am a blonde!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • drndrn Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Windstar that has a problem in the front temperature control. I am unable to adjust the temperature by turning the knob. Any ideas out there?
    Thanks, DRN
  • Hi Jessie,
    How much did the window motor end up running you? I've never even priced it. I've seen a TON of window issues on this site... can this be coincidental or will Ford ever fess up and admit that it's an inherent defect and start covering the repairs? I doubt it but it's good to dream once in a while. ;)

    You would totally know that your ABS was kicking in....... when you apply the brake it makes this horrible brake-grinding sound while it's trying to NOT let you stop. The brake pedal sort of kicks back at you and the van keeps lunging forward. Real fun stuff!!! First time it happened, it scared the bejeezus out of me! :surprise:

    Glad you found yourself a good mechanic. Finding a mechanic you can trust is harder than finding a good doctor. :)
  • I purchased my white 2000 SEL in late 1999 with it fully loaded and added gold stripping. I also purchased the 5 yr warranty because it was one of the first manufactured off the line and I expected trouble.

    I've had very few problems. I have recently had a fender bender and cosmetic sheet metal is all that is needed. The insurance company will pay for the entire accident and it should look as good as new even though I have about 80,000 miles on it.

    Since Fords new vans look exactly like my current van I see no reason to trade it in for a 2006 van. Does anyone disagree with me on this. I can afford to pay cash for any new car but it doesn't seem worth while.
  • Same problem, replaced the brake pressure switch and fuse no longer blows. The bad thing is that I obviously did not get to the cruise control servo in time. The wiring harness was wet with brake fluid, and I was going to clean it out, but the far right side of the plug was melted and smelled burnt. I still cleaned it out, but the cruise control still does not work ( I did not think it would). Do I need to replace the harness? the servo? both?
  • Last week, driving home from my daughters practice my 2001V6 3.8L Windstar SE did not want to move in any gear. I coasted over to the shoulder of the highway and stopped. I put the van in drive and nothing, put it in reverse and nothing. Any gear I would put the van in seemed it was in neutral. My friend ran his scanner to what the problem was and only came up with P0171 and P0174 codes. Which means Bank 1 and Bank 2 (System is to Lean). Can this be the problem or can it be something more serious like the tranny gone out? If anyone has had this problem, please reply to this post or email at

  • shanmalshanmal Posts: 2
    Hi was wandering if anyone else has had the same problem I have a 2001 ford WS 3.8 we have already had to replace the o2 sensors and the aabout six weeks later the check engine light came on the Mech. said the computer said it was the manifold casket They cahnged it and the light came back on we ended up changing the EGR valve the EGR relay and the light still came on the last thing replaced was the DFPS and that seemed to work Now the darn thing is acting up again THe ABS light is on The Brake light is on the O/D light is blinking and my speedometer and the odometer quit working and the air is blowing lukewarm air. The mech says it is the Speedcontrol sensor that is shorting out and blowing a fuse that controls just about everthing anyways left it at the shop should I prepare for more problems
  • leach27leach27 Posts: 1
    Just had the same issue and it was luckly and easy fix. Really no noise except between 38 - 40 MPH. I figured it might be a bad bearing too but it wasn't. Check your rear ABS sensor for corrosion or build up. This is a small rectangular piece that sensors the teeth on the axle. It is magnetic and because it is inside of the drum it tends to pick up small pieces of metal debris. If it builds up to much debris it could make slight contact with the teeth as they spin past the sensor and cause this noise. Just remove the tire and brake drum, grab a lug and spin it by hand, you should be able to find the noise easily if this is the problem. Clean off the sensor or replace if needed and this should solve your problem. Make sure you check both sides.
  • tmp888tmp888 Posts: 20
    Have you tried to put it in 3, 2 or 1/L? Is there any other code?
  • kkirkkkirk Posts: 4
    I had a problem with the blend door actuator stripping some gears inside it on my 2001 sel. What the function of the actuator is, is its the thing that opens and closes a door that lets the hot air in. It's located behind the radio, so you'll have to remove the radio. Does it make any clicking sounds when you change the temperature from one extreme to the other? Do a search on yahoo for blend door actuator, I believe they were couple guides on how to fix it. I was lucky, mine was the actuator and not what the door housing that if fit into. The part at the ford store ran aroung 70 dollars.
  • rock8rock8 Posts: 1
    I had similar problems with my 2000 windstar. Check under the master cylinder for
    the brakes. There is a switch connected that was leaking brake fluid and shorting out the speedometer,odometer, and A/C. I replaced the switch for $25.00 and all is fine now, except for the ABS light which I think needs to be reset by ford. (but I dont dare bring it there for reasons of them finding other problems). Try that, it worked for me. :)
  • it's good(?) to see that I'm not the only one with some of these problems...

    I've had the gears stripped on my air/heat actuator...changed that myself ...part $75...

    My system too registers that it is running lean....check engine light stays on...

    and for the last few months, the driver window doesn't work right...if it is 80 degrees outside, it works fine....otherwise forget it...

    saw a question on the price of the motor for the driver window, but never saw a response...anyone know how much they cost??
  • lonnyclonnyc Posts: 3
    Hi My name is Loony and I have the unfortune of owning a Ford. I just replaced my transmission (with only 48000 miles) and now there is a sort of pulley that has semed to separate. It's on the passenger side towards the bottom. To start can anyone tell me what that pulley would be? I can't seem to find any online diagras of the pulley systems. The van runs but it makes a ridiculously LOUD, very fast clacking noise. Ideas??? And hopefully there cheap ideas because the transmission issue has blown a hoel in my wallet!
  • shanmalshanmal Posts: 2
    Thanks they changed the switch but that hasn't stopped it from blowing fuses I have to take it back to have them go through the wiring harness because they say it is shorting out in the wires. The mech disconnected the Cruise control and it runs fine right now except the rear air really sucks now. Hopefully this will be covered under warranty I still owe way to much on it to try to trade it off.
  • tawastawas Posts: 1
    It is more than likely your A/C compressor clutch assembly. There are some aftermarket items that will let you run without the A/C but I think that all of them would require removal of the A/C. If you remove the A/C you will have to take it to a shop and they will remove the refrigerant with a machine. They would also be able to put the refrigerant back into your unit. Compressor clutch assemblies go for around $180.00 (Detroit area) and if the compressor is toast then it's about another $250.00 - $300.00.
    Good Luck
  • lonnyclonnyc Posts: 3
    Thank you for your response. All the help I can get I will gladly take!
  • gvadgvad Posts: 1
    Same thing happend to us this Saturday at the traffic light. Can you tell us what was wrong with the transmission in your ford and how much it will cost. Ours is Ford windstar 2000 limited.
  • beavxbeavx Posts: 1
    I have P0305 & P0174 Codes. Changed O2 sensor per Advance Auto suggestion, wrong answer. Still runs as bad as it did before I started. Any Idea of where to start???

    Thanks In advance.
  • help! i had transmission flushed and ford merc v added. now shudder is less frequent. happens when going uphill.has anyone been able to fix this problem? :mad:
This discussion has been closed.