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Chevrolet Impala Transmission Problems

Nosirrahg thanks for Post 910. I was lazy and did not check earlier posts. Turns out the problem on mine is intermittent. Right now running fine. I went to a reputable independent shop. He said the Impala has had problems with the pressure control module. He also said without a check engine light and no symptoms he would not recommend doing anything. Did you get a check engine light? I went to a Chev dealer. The Service Tech said that there were no such problems with the Impala transmission. If anyone knows the number of the technical bulletin I would like to take it to the dealer. Thanks.
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Comments

  • Normally, I would say it's the transmission. However, in today's cars (esp the Impala) the transmission is computer controlled. So it's hard to say. It could be the tranny, or the computer. So the fix could be as complex as overhauling the transmission or as easy flash-updating the PCM. How much does Chevy charge just to do the diagnostic?
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Little Rock, ARPosts: 872
    I did NOT get a check engine light; just abrupt shifting and a noticeable whine on one particular day. The only other thing I'd noticed prior to that was a tendency to "hunt" for a gear on gradual upgrades, where the transmission couldn't decide whether to stay in OD or shift down to 3rd - that probably started 3-4 months before I had this obvious problem and took it in and got it fixed. Granted, when I drove the car from home to the dealer to get it fixed, it didn't exhibit any problems - I don't know if I could have ignored it and been fine or not; but from the way it sounded earlier that day, I'd have been afraid to drive it anywhere.
  • I have experienced the same problem can you tell me what the dealer did to fix it.

    thanks
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Little Rock, ARPosts: 872
    I don't have the invoice handy, but all I remember was they replaced a "PCM" (pressure control module, I think); I want to say the bill ended up being @ $500. As I recall, the bulk of that expense was for labor.

    It really only acted up that one afternoon, but it was severe enough that even though it seemed fine the next day when I took it in, I wanted to get it attended to before it got worse. As I think I mentioned before, I'd noticed some hesitation at times on slight upgrades for several months prior to that, and thus far that also seems to have been corrected by this fix.

    Good luck!!
  • I have a 04 LS which has had a vibration in the front end ever since I bought the car. I only have 4500 miles on it and have not done any rough driving with it. Only highway driving. I have had the tires balanced 6 times and have even had an entirely brand new set of tires put on the car, and there is still a vibration. The dealer cant figure out what is wrong. Its obviously not the tires since I've had 2 sets on it and each set has been balanced 3 times. Even the dealer told me that with these $15,000 balancing machines that they use, if it were a balancing problem, that would have corrected it.

    The vibration starts at 55 and is at its worst at 65. Its really bad if I am going 65 or 70 on the highway and suddenly take my foot off the gas without hitting the brake. You can actually look at the steering wheel and see it vibrating. Everything in the car shakes (rearview mirror, passenger seat, etc).

    This is getting very annoying and I'm actually concerned that all the vibration is going to wear out parts in the front end prematurely if it continues.

    Any suggestions or comments?
  • is the balancing done with the tires being spun at HWY speeds?

    My beretta did the same thing at approximetely the same speeds. although it wasnt too bad and i just drove thru it. also, it wouldnt do if decellerating. i would have them check alignment eventho it supposely isnt required on these cars.
  • I've seen reports of the Pressure Control Solenoid in the transmission failing causing harsh shifts and the engine to jerk. Could it be that?

    Could it be a problem with the throttle position sensor?
  • hybr1dhybr1d Posts: 2
    Every time I am accelerating out of first gear to second gear, around 35 miles per hour, my car shudders as if to stall then it makes clicking sounds and my RPMS fly up the scale. The car remains at 35 MPH until I let off of the accelerator. Happens when I am flooring it only, not to say to race or anything lol, but just to pull out into busy traffic is now dangerous and could be fatal. Any ideas?
  • liquid2liquid2 Posts: 1
    My fathers car is doing the same thing...any luck yet?
  • charlief1charlief1 Posts: 10
    My 2002 LS had similar incident and also had noticed reduced power at highway speeds. Turned out to be a clogged catalytic converter, a problem that GM is aware of and they replaced at no cost to me.

    Charlie
  • hybr1dhybr1d Posts: 2
    Yeah, I got it fixed and it turns out there were a few more problems then just the catalytic converter. I had a leak in the vacuum, a hole in a gasket, and the wires to my wiring harness for teh fuel injector had been eaten away by something..

    Freaking amazing...
  • mkuehnmkuehn Posts: 1
    Hello there.

    I have been jumping from topic to topic on here trying to locate discussions that sound like issues i am having with my 03 Imp.

    My car has begun to do the hesitation, and i was informed that it could 1. need a flush, or 2.be that sensor.. we opted for the flush, though it is still doing the same thing between 2nd and 3rd at speratic times.

    NOW.. took it to go get oil changed, and apparently there is some sort of debris in the tranny fluid?!!

    are you aware of issues commonly happening with the transmission, or things of that nature? freaking out a little, i really like my Imp.. now just not sure where to start with what. I think i went from one issue of the sensor, to a new one.

    any advice or exper. you could share would be great.
    Mk.
  • pbaranellopbaranello Posts: 36
    This is a converter problem. I have 64,000 on mine and I have not had the problem.

    Someone wrote that it is not worth paying a dealer $130.00 for an injector/intake flush and to use some after market crap. WRONG,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

    The reason my converter and performance is still excellent is because I have the flush done every 30,000 miles. Chevy is not the only company, Chrysler products require the same maintenance. The differences in performance and gas mileage after cleaning the carbon build up is very noticeable.
  • pbaranellopbaranello Posts: 36
    I don't know if this is the issue but if your dealer or repair shop is doing the standard old-fashioned transmission fluid change by dropping the pan and changing the filter, they are doing you a dis-service.

    This leaves more than half of the old fluid in the torque converter and tranny. Doing a power flush takes out all the fluid and all the debris. It is more expensive but more efficient.

    If you are having the power flush done and you have this problem. There is a module in the transmission that needs to be changed that sometimes is affected by the power flush.

    The newer cars should not be taken care of by the old rules of maintenance. There is just too much electronics and new types of valves that make up the newer cars since 2000 that just don’t apply to the old rules.

    If your die hard Daddy that worked on cars in the 70's or 80's is telling you how to service a 2000 and beyond vehicle, fire him..............
  • quietproquietpro Posts: 702
    I'll second that. I was skeptical of fuel injector cleaning until I had mine done as part of a compensation package. It was a very noticeable change in power. I didn't notice a big difference in fuel mileage but I may have been a little more heavy-footed with the revitalized engine. :)
  • pbaranellopbaranello Posts: 36
    As much as I hate to spend the money, today's engines with the emissions control must be maintained.

    Humans cannot create something without a repercussion, we are that imperfect..!!

    If the emission devices control pollution, then something else suffers. Today’s engines build up carbon because it contains the emissions with in the system.

    An emissions flush does your engine a world of good.

    I have experienced this on many makes of cars.
  • I have experienced some problems with me 2001 car since purchasing it used in 2003. Yesterday the dealer told me I needed to have a pressure control solenoid replaced to prevent the slipping of gear 1. Where is this solenoid located? The cost is $550 but the part is only &79.50.

    Also by rear turn signals have both stopped working. I was told I needed to purchase a turn signal switch priced at $300 and the labor to install is $450. Would replacing the steering column be a good fix for this problem?
  • larconelarcone Posts: 9
    This story is incredible. I can't tell if you are blowing smoke up our butts and it's hard to see if you take care of your auto or run it in the dirt but I'll give this answer a try.

    Most of the prices you quoted are a joke. There is no need to spend that kind of money. The labor is outrageous. This can't be a GM dealer.

    For GM parts quotes and a live database and very competitive parts prices, go to http://www.rockauto.com

    For example, the Pressure Solenoid is ONLY $31.79. Your dealer would hopefully match that price to get your business and, if not, then dump him. Moreover, the solenoid is electronically activated and is therefore located in the side transfer case of the transmission which is facing the left wheel on the driver's side. What is so common on the GM transmissions is that the solenoids leak over time and fail to function either because of the leak or because fluid leaks from the transmission into the dry transfer case where the electrical connections become shorted and thus require the replacement of the solenoid.

    NOTE:
    AC Delco PN#10478146 $31.79 Valve, Pressure, Solenoid

    A transfer case gasket much be purchased as well(http://search.ebay.com/shop-service-2000-2001-2002-2003-2004-2005-impala_W0QQcat- - - refZC5QQfclZ2QQfromZR7QQfrppZ200QQfsooZ1QQfsopZ3QQnojsprZyQQpfidZ0QQsacatZQ2d1QQ- - - satitleZQ28shopQ2cserviceQ29Q20Q282000Q2c2001Q2c2002Q2c2003Q2c2004Q2c2005Q29Q20i- - - mpalaQQsofocusZbs

    In the event that you must have a NEW service manual for your GM car, then go to http://www.helm-inc.com
  • Good day, I own a 2004 base Impala which I bought used - I got my tires rotated a few months ago, which was about the 2nd time (first time at this particular place) and also got my brakes serviced at the same time. Ever since that last rotation(not balanced) I've been feeling a vibration in the car and it was getting worse - when I went back for my next oil change, they told me that it was probably the bent rim I have (now at the front after the rotation) I told them that it was there when I bought the car and it wasn't doing it before...they then balanced my wheels after rotating them back - but it didn't fix the problem. They seem pretty positive that it's because of the bent rim and now they insist I need to buy a new rim before they can keep looking for the problem- but I'm positive that it's not, because it wasn't doing it before!. CAN ANYONE HELP ME!! :cry:
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Little Rock, ARPosts: 872
    I get a second opinion on the bent rim...if it is indeed bent, you can probably find a used wheel (they're almost always listed on eBay).

    Does the vibration occur when you're just driving around, or only at certain times (like during braking)? It's not uncommon for rotors to warp, especially if the wheels aren't torqued properly...so if the problem only occurs during braking, that might be the problem.

    If it happens when driving, could be out of balance, or a problem with the tire (as well as a bent wheel). I'd have somebody else check that wheel, and then go from there.
  • I was thinking of getting a second opinion on the bent wheel - but the other place I went to prior to going back for my oil change and check up told me I had nothing wrong....also the vibration occurs predominantly when driving between 45 & 60mph - but you can still slightly feel it at any speed. It does not happen when braking though - I know what a warped rotor feels like (replaced rotors & pads a year ago because of it and they are still good, according to them) I just don't understand how this can happen after a simple tire rotation...and this place claims to have balanced the wheels the best they could...I just don't want to go somewhere else and pay big $$$ to find the problem when it was fine until that rotation a couple months ago....If anybody else has any suggestions, please enlighten me. :confuse: – on another note, I have to say this is a great forum! VERY helpful
  • bxdbxd Posts: 186
    Move the bent wheel to a different corner (front to back) and see if the vibration follows it. That will tell you whether it's the wheel's fault or not. If the vibration follows, it could be the tire on that wheel and not the wheel itself, radial pull from loosening belts.
  • THe vibration only started after I had a rotation done(no balance) - the bent wheel went from the back to the front - Then I had them rotated once more (now back at the rear) with a balance ....and the vibration is still there(predominately between 40 & 70mph) I'm starting to think it's the tire....but how could a rotation cause this?
  • bxdbxd Posts: 186
    The front end is much more sensitive to out of balance wheels/tires than the back. So it makes sense to me that the vibration started being noticeable after a simple rotation. What doesn't make sense is that after another rotation, the problem hasn't gone away, or at least changed in feel. Are the wheels and tires now at exactly the same position as before the problem started? I would put it back and see. In my mind, if this shop sells wheels too - they may have mis-balanced that wheel to produce business. I would hope not but it's conceivable.

    I know it's a huge pain in the butt, but to isolate the problem, you really should put everything back to how they started, then rotate ONE SIDE front to back and back to front. Note change. Rotate the other side, front to back and back to front. Note change. This will be the way to isolate the exact corner.

    If you are like most people and way too busy to experiment yourself, time for a second opinion. Get someone else to look.
  • I have an '05 Impala with 38000 miles on it.I recently had the tranny fluid flushed because i was advised to do it. Every since then my car performs very poorly. Sometimes the car shifts very hard between gears and it feels as if the car is straining to accelerate.I have taken my car back to these people 3 times because of the problem. If anyone knows or have a clue as to what this could be please let me know so I won't get ripped off!
  • Okay - I am now two months later - with new tires, new alloy rims (when from steel to new alloys) with proper balancing - three time ... AND I STILL HAVE THE VIBRATION!!! I'm getting sick of my coffee mixing in my cup holder on my way to work :mad: - now they are telling me that I need an alignment AND that it is not actually a vibration I feel but the cause of a softening suspension resulting in the wheel to "bounce" repetitively when hitting bumps at high speeds - keep in mind the car is a 2004 model - bought for the first time in July of 2003 with now almost 73K miles(80% Hwy) on it. How can the suspension start doing such a thing at this point? I'll take anybody's thoughts at this point - I don't know what to do!! :cry:
  • my 2000 impala has a 3800 engine and the tranny shutters between every shift otherwise if you dont step on it to hard you really dont notice it but if you step on it fairly hard it will shutter between each gear can anyone help
    thanks
  • cuffcuff Posts: 11
    hi.i'm new at this so bare with me.......just bought a 2005 impala and the transmission has a mind of it's own...this question was probley asked.......but .need to no...does any body have a problem when there car pulls away for the first time when you start it up in the morning...mine pauses for a sec or two then away it goes........this is the part i don't realy get.as the car get's warm the shifts of the trans get harder and harder...waiteing for something to break...it bangs into every gear.......tranny was not flushed,but was changed and filter was to.no difference.i'm told it could be a pressure control solenoid in the tranny.any help would be great thanks
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Little Rock, ARPosts: 872
    I do think it was the pressure control solenoid they replaced on mine. Mine never got to the point of hesitating like yours is though.

    At first I started to suggest you change your fuel filter, which might explain some sluggishness when you first pull out, but I don't know if that'd impact shifts when you were up to speed or not. I do know I've changed my fuel filter at least a couple of times in the 100k miles I've had it; whenever I've felt the car was starting to suffer performance-wise I found changing the fuel filter seemed to solve the problem. I also had a problem early on with a clogged fuel injector, and got into the habit of running a bottle of fuel injector cleaner through it every time I change the oil, and that seems to make a world of difference.
  • cuffcuff Posts: 11
    talking to the dealer this morning.have a good friend that works there....he doesn't work on the trannies,but he sais he will find out and tell me what they find.....when it is done i'll let ya all no....after all i like my impala...i'm sure it's a flaw in the trans.but time will tell.stay tuned
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