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Pontiac Grand Prix Brakes

I hope someone can help me. I have a 2000 grand prix and yesterday my abs light came on as did my trac off light. I took it to a repair shop and they used a scan tool and it came up with no codes. The mechanic took it for a drive and did a 4 wheel abs test and it worked fine(the light wasn't on at this time) Now when I start the car the lights are off but after after a few minutes I feel a quick grind in the petal and the lights come back on. Please help me...
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Comments

  • My 2002 Grand Prix seems to be running fine but all of a sudden all of my brake lights, both above and below, died at once.
  • My lights stopped working a few months ago, but the blinkers stopped also. The mechanic told me some moisture got into the stering collum where the blinker switch is and corroded the conections. He cleaned them and havent had the problem since.
  • When that happened to my 99 it was related to the front bearings and the abs sensors. I ended up going through multiple front bearings and sensors until I got a good set. According to my garage they were bad aftermarket parts. Fortunately guaranteed and the garage did the work for nothing after the initial installation. Good luck!
  • I really dont know but if it were me Id disconnect the battery for 5 minutes to drain the computer memory and let the computer do a reboot and erase any cliches it might have to do weird things. Just a thought and its cost nothing but resetting your radio stations.
  • I have a 2000 grand prix too and today I had the same problem with the abs/trac lights coming on. After driving a while, I checked the rotors to see if they were hot. One was very hot and turns out I have a brake caliber that is freezing up which causes the abs light to come on. The abs light would not come on until the rotor got hot enough.
  • Same problem with my 2001 GT, ended up being the ABS sensors. The grinding will continue to get worse until they are replaced. The ABS still works fine, just the sensors were bad. Mine were replaced under warranty, but I think the dealer said it was around a $200.00 job.
  • jmac74jmac74 Posts: 10
    I just signed up to this, so that is why i am emailing late. I have a 2000 GTP and mine did the same thing. I ended up replacing the left front hub bearing twice, so far it is ok, but the traction control unit is bad so the trac off light and abs light stays on constantly. I was getting ready to fix it but the engine caught on fire, still waiting to hear from the ins. co. on a cause.
  • sr44sr44 Posts: 1
    Brake light failure all 3; I replaced bulbs in both the tail lights(braking lights) and the "3rd" light on back top shelf. Back top shelf now works but the tail lights still do not. WHY ? I have all my running & night lights and turn signals. I noticed a "mrbill3" message dated 10/7/05 with the same problem. I'm new to this forum and would like to know what he did to finally get it fixed ? How did he/you do it ? Thanks for the help
  • wobblywobbly Posts: 3
    Hi,
    I made the mistake to take my 2005 Grand Prix GTP to Germany. I am stationed at the U.S. Army Regional Medical Center in Landstuhl. Apparently, Pontiacs are neither sold nor serviced in Germany or Europe for that matter. Usually, there is some kind of service (military sales) for members of the Armed Forces but all the information I get from GM is completely useless (non-existing phone numbers and e-mail addresses). So much for my warranty. Anyhow, because of the different driving conditions, I ran into problems that I didn't realize while in San Diego. First of all, starting at a speed of 110 miles per hour, there is a terrible noise coming from inside the dashboard. I cannot detect any vibrations and it does not sound like wind noise but more like a mechanical noise. It's so loud that you cannot even talk in the car. This is my main problem. Perhaps somebody else stationed in Germany and accustomed to the German Autobahn has had the same problem?
    The second issue is that the car won't go over 200km/h, or 125mph. There is apparently a limiter built in/programmed that does not permit the car to go faster. So most German compact cars can easily pass me. I understand that the domestic engines are not made for constant high speed driving (unlike the BMWs for example), but I would like to have the ability to mobilize speed when needed. Does anyone have any idea how to solve this while being overseas?
    Finally, the brakes are disaster. I had everything checked and had a full service before shipping the car. However, these brakes are completely unfit for the speeds that are commonly driven here. Does anybody know about any upgrades that could remedy this situation?
    It's very frustrating. My other car is an old (92) 318IS BMW. The engine is not even half the size of the GTP engine, it only has 140bhp instead of the 260bhp of the Pontiac, and it is 13 years older. Yet the little BMW kicks the Pontiac’s [non-permissible content removed] any which way it wants to. The Pontiacs handles like a boat on the narrow, winding roads. Unlike the BMW. And on the Autobahn, the beamer's top speed is 215 km/h as listed in the title while the GTP quits at 200km/h. I love the way the Pontiac looks. But I hate that almost any German compact car is faster than my GTP while only consuming half the gas.
    Anyway, if anyone has a suggestion how to fix any of the above problems, I would greatly appreciate. I would hate to sell my GTP, but in Europe, it is next to useless. Oh well.
    Thanks,
    Tom
  • Hey Wobbly,
    I am also relatively new to the "GTP" experience. I purchased my 2002 GTP 4 days ago. I have been doing ALOT of research on mods and tuning the last few days. The solution to most of your problems would be to get the PCM (Digital Horsepower Inc. v1.0 PCM for Grand Prix GTP ). This will take the limiter off, and increase hp by changing shift points and temp check points. There are a few mods that also need to be done in order to get the best gains (and least amount of knock) out of the GTP. A great site that has all the parts your looking for is : link title

    This site explains what each component will do as well as anything needed. To get best results these mods need to be done:

    Developed with the average 3800 enthusiast in mind, this calibration has been designed and dynamometer tested and proven for the following vehicle modifications installed:
    - 3.4” - 3.25” pulley
    - Cold air induction system (brand not applicable)
    - Cat-back exhaust system (brand not applicable)
    - Premium fuel (91+ octane)

    FEATURES:
    - Speed limiter removed
    - 3-1 and 4-2 skip shifts (Active in performance shift mode only*)
    - Transmission line pressure increased (Active in performance shift mode only*)
    - Shift points moved (5800-6000rpms) (Active in performance shift mode only*)
    - Fan turn on points altered:
    - 186 degree turn on
    - 2 minute fan on at key-off (this feature activates when engine coolant is 179 degrees or greater)
    - MAF calibration adjusted for proper operation and year
    - Digital Horsepower Inc. fuel/spark adjustments:
    - En-richens fuel delivery for critical problem areas
    - Provides a consistent power gain across the entire power band
    - Reduces spark retard (knock retard)
    - Removes “40MPH WOT lag”
    - Dynamometer testing has shown up to 20 HP gain in 60 degree temperatures on a development vehicle. Click here to view the dyno results and detailed explanation.
    *NOTE: Cars without the performance shift button will require a wiring harness modification for these shifting features to be enabled.

    This is the best mod and most cost effective way to increase your gains accross the board. The PCM is like $100.00 (pretty cheap mod), but the exhaust can run 300-500 bux, and the intake runs 250-350 bux. So with about 7-800.00 bux you'll have a low 14 sec car, with no limiter and about 280-290 hps. Quickest and simple way to answer all your problems. I have also heard that these are relatively simple engine mods. My buddy is in the army and is in Germany as well, he is a Hummer mechanic. He always is telling me stories about the audobon (sounds like it would be fun!!). His name is Kelly Dood (nickname NEMO), If ya know him tell him Adam said "what up!" and good luck with your GTP. Peace
    Adam Johnson
  • wobblywobbly Posts: 3
    Adam,
    Thanks for your input. I already found the Digital Horsepower DCM at www.pfyc.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PFYC&Product_Code=GP3901&P- roduct_Count=18&Category_Code=04UNDER
    But it says that it is not intended for the stock GTP. Moreover, installation will void my warranty. So unfortunately, it will have to wait until after warranty is up. There should also be a way to reprogram the original part. I will look into that too.
    My main problem is the awful noise I am getting at 115mph. But I hope to get this solved. While GM in the States is completely clueless regarding Pontiac in Europe, I managed to find a GM dealership in the area that honors the warranty for military personnel (found it in the military finder's guide). I have an appontment on Memorial Day and hope that they can fix the problem.
    The other problem, however, is that the brakes are already a disaster at a speed of 125mph. When I had to hit the brakes at that speed, it scared the [non-permissible content removed] out of me. While the brakes on my 14-year-old toy BMW have no problems with even higher speeds, the Pontiac is definitely not up to the task. My conclusion is that the car was never meant to be driven that fast. It's a shame. It is beautiful. It got muscle. But it doesn't have what it takes. It's all show. Like I mentioned earlier, the handling is also a disaster. I never realized all this while in the States. But it is a completely different ball game over here.
    As for your body, ask him where he is stationed. I am in the K-Town area. There are about 50,000 Americans in this area alone. And a lot of GTPs too.
    Thanks again and all the best for you and your GTP.
    Tom
  • Tom,
    I didnt even realize the year of your GTP. I've got a 2002 so its a bit different set-up. I was up around 123-124mph on the highway today, and I didn't feel any knocking, or hear any sort of noises. The motor felt quite strong but I could tell I was not gonna get more than 4-8 mph's faster ( I had to slow up a bit due to traffic in MY LANE!! LOL) But anyways I haven't been able to top her out yet (not sure where the limiter is set at on my year, Ive got the series II motor) I love my GTP, maybe its just the year, car companies always seem to screw up perfectly good models and engines with their "performance" standards. My brakes felt pretty good as well at the higher speeds, I didn't slam on them but I did do a little VERY LIGHT tapping. I forgot where my buddy is stationed (yeah I know I was pretty vague with his location and I forgot how much military is actually in Germany at all times...lol). I think he is in the eastern part (sorry not very familiar with Germany). Anywayz good luck with everything, I have a great amount of respect for all US military. Thank You and Hopefully you can get those GTP probs figured out. Peace, AJ
  • ksgtpksgtp Posts: 2
    Hey Bro, sorry about your problems there in Germany. I have a 2002 GTP, and I hated the fact that it shut down @ 120 on the turnpike here in Kansas. I know, gutsy to drive that fast here. Anyway, the problem w/ that would be a stage 1 pcm from www.zzperformanceparts.com This will get rid of the top speed limiter, and lower kr, which is good on a supercharged car, and give correct shift points etc. etc. All in all this helped my car extensively. I can now go about 140mph. w/ no problems. Also, this will not affect your fuel milage at normal ( U.S.) highway speeds. Not sure about 100+ mph. Again, w/ the brakes. You will want a ceramic based pad for your front brakes. The cheapie semi-metalic pads that GM puts on the car suck. Spend the $100 and get ceramic pads, it could save your life. You can also get those on the same web site, or on www.pfyc.com and I believe either website ships international. If you are still wanting more power, then look into the smaller 3.4" supercharger pully. Will add about 30-35 h.p. on your car.
    Hope this stuff helps.
  • chele5chele5 Posts: 8
    First I want to say thank you. This site has been a wealth of information and very helpful. Just about everything that has gone wrong with my car has appeared here!

    I have a 2001 Grand Prix with 130,000 miles, 3.8L engine and a recently rebuilt transmission.
    That being said, the latest trial and tribulation we have going on with my car is that there is a strange sound coming from the front end. It sounds like a pump running for a short period of time, (like the water pump in my dad's RV!). This occurs only at slow speeds (under 20mph). The ABS light and the low trac light do not always come on at the same time nor do they always come on when this sound occurs. The low trac light appears when there is not a problem with traction :confuse: . And to make matters more confusing, the brakes work fine. We will not take this car to the dealership - because they've lied to us in the past and I do not trust them. Other than dealers, do other mechanics have an ABS tester? And does this describe a possible problem with the ABS system?? Thanks for any and all feedback - it is greatly appreciated!
  • I have a 98 Grand prix and it's doing the same thing and I've been to the dealer many times and they don't know what I'm talking about. I maybe a girl, but I do know my car and what and when something is wrong. It all started with the shifter. Something was spilt down in the shifter column and got wires and connectors sticky. The dealer recommended a new shifter. For what they charged for one and to put it in was over $800. I went to a Nissan Dealer and order the part and had a certified machanic replace it for me. It was working fine until my coolant light kept coming on. My mechanic did the radiator flush relplace the manifold intake gasket, and put in coolant. That was fine for awhile and then the shifter wouldnt release out of park. I noticed when I stepped on the brake to release the shifter to put it in gear the gear light would sometimes go out or sometimes come on. If the light was P light was not lit when applying the brake the shifter did not move. If I kept pumping the brake until light stayed on then I could shift out of park. When it didn't work by pumping the brake I had to push in the release button to get it out of park. And now the key would be stuck and didn't turn all the way to the off position, so therefore you had to play with it over and over to get key out and at sometimes it just wouldn't and they key had to stay in there. I took it back to the dealer and them to fix it and they still recommeded the shifter to be replaced. I told them that this was all ready done and the only reason they are telling me this is because the computer still showed that I declined the repairs. They did not want to hear the fact that I got the part and had a certified mechanic replace it. They told me then my mechanic didn't do it right and it wasnt their problem and for me to take it back to my mechanic. So, I did...and my mechanic talked to the dealers mechanic and mentiond that I didn't need a new shifter. Well, needless to say I've had to live with this problem for 6 months. Well, yesterday the ABS light stayed on and so did the Trac Off light/and which some how made the steering difficult. But when the ABS light and Trac Off light would stay off, the steering go better. I then took it back to the dealer, they did some kind of test where they scanned for codes. Well, they told me that i needed to replace the ABS modulator and the price, $1023. Not including labor. I have since yesterday been looking at the junk yard for same part but used. I may have found one but need to see if it is the same one. I think they could've done this and saved me some money if they had done the test/scan in the first place they would've known the problem. I know this has to all tie together some how...? Can anyone answer my analogy? They wont listen to me ... maybe someone out is listening and can help me on this one.
  • chele5chele5 Posts: 8
    Thanks for your reply - I too have had a bad experience with the dealership and refuse to go back unless I have NO other option.
    I can't tell you if all your problems are related. But my experience has taught me that the dealers have a way of "only fixing what they have to" when they know that more will need to be done at a later date. This way they can charge you again for labor. (that lesson was learned with my transmission!).
    So get many opinions if you have to - please let us know what you find out.
  • wobblywobbly Posts: 3
    Hi,
    As I mentioned before, I am stationed in Germany and took my 2005 GTP with me. Apparently, the car is not made for the high Autobahn speeds over here. Top speed is limited to 125 mph, tires are only "H" rated, transmission overheats (oil pan too small) during long Autobahn drives, and the brakes are a complete joke at high speeds (i.e., very, very dangerous). Compared to the brakes of a BMW, a Porsche, or even a Corvette, one can clearly see where the problem is: the rotors are way to small in diameter to give adequate performance. Again, driving conditions here cannot be compared to the conditions back home. When you drive 120 mph or faster (150 mph is not out of the ordinary, 200 mph are not unheard of especially with bikes) and a car going at half the speed decides to get in front of you without warning, you need brakes that can handle a situation like this.
    My question is, can I upgrade the brakes on my 2005 GTP (not just the rotors) with the ones installed on the 2006 GXP? Would they fit? Could I keep my rims? Does anybody know?
    I would appreciate any help.
    And while I am at it: Did anyone here try the transmission pan cooler for this car? Did anyone here put in an additional transmission oil cooler in his 2004 or newer Grand Prix? If so, which one worked out good for you in terms of ease of installation and fit.
    As always, all help is appreciated.
    Thank you!
  • GXP premature brake wear!! :sick: Has anyone experienced this problem yet??? I have 23,000 miles in my first year of ownership. 98% of my driving is highway/freeway. As I write this message, my car is sitting at the dealership waiting for a set of pads to be overnighted. With no warning, my fronts are down to metal-to-metal. As near a I can tell, the pads retail at $150 and the rotors at $750. This is pretty poor performance when I am used to 60,000 miles, at least, between brake jobs on my 2 previous GTP's.
  • spdrushspdrush Posts: 15
    With 60/40% rural driving, my brakes went out - no warning at 13000 miles. Rotors turned and GM Ceramic pads installed cost $230.00.

    Braking performance is same or better but no more brake dust!

    Others seem to be having the same brake wear.

    Your mileage is about correct for the performance brakes with Metallic pads.
  • rmozolrmozol Posts: 124
    Did you guys have to eat the cost? I put on some EBC "Reds" to lower the brake dust a LOT. They also sound better and stop quicker. I guess that I'll watch the wear thing too.
  • Anyone having excessive brake dust? I have been cleaning brake dust since I bought this car. I just turned 12000 miles and the brakes started making noises. Took it to the dealer and found both rotors worn bad and outer brake pads shot, inner ones were half worn. Dealer wants to turn rotors, I want them replaced. Car is barely a year old. I owned a 2000 Trans Am and it still had the original brakes after 30k+ miles and 5 years when I sold it. I don't want to have to do brakes every year. Anyone else with problems?
  • rmozolrmozol Posts: 124
    Yeah, if you read back a few pages there's more details. I was tired of the brake dust on the fronts, so I installed the EBC "Red" pads. Now, both wheels look the same after weeks of driving which is fine by me. I guess if they turn them and they're still within the minimum thickness, I don't know if you can force them to change them can you?
  • I put NAPA ceramic pads on my wife's GXP at 23K miles. These brakes are very high performance, so 23k is not unreasonable for this type(also, drilled rotors will wear pads quicker than smooth rotors). The pads were $97 (dealer wanted $115 with 8-10 day wait for order). They seem to stop as quickly as OEM, with greatly reduced dust. Also, I was quoted $70 for new rotors (2 Atlanta dealerships). I did not replace them at this time.
  • Thanks punchit, I ordered NAPA ceramics last week and they will be here tomorrow. If all the dealer will do is resurface the rotors I will have them do that, and I'll install the ceramics when I get home. It concerns me the amount of wear I have in only 12 K miles, never had a car wear out brakes in 1 year before. I figured if I was seeing brake dust, the pads were wearing and not the rotors. The extreme rotor wear was a surprise. The backs look brand new, no excessive wear at all (and no dust) so I just need to replace the fronts.
  • I was told it takes special equipment to turn drilled rotors. Mine were grooved somewhat, but I'll wait 'til next pad replacement. Let me know what you find out about that.
    Thanks
  • With the "EBC RED" does the harder pad create a brake squeel, or wear into the rotor??
  • rmozolrmozol Posts: 124
    Neither. The material is light in color, so they just don't have that black dust on them. They don't squeal since they supply some adhesive backed isulator.
  • My dealer dressed the rotors (no grooves) and I replaced with GM ceramic pads (no more dust on the wheels). I find the braking is better and the pedal firmer with ceramics.

    Most of the tweaked GXP's use ceramics as replacement or a pad from EBC or other aftermarket co.

    Cost for this at dealsership $230.00.
  • chats1chats1 Posts: 158
    I have been reading the posts re the premature brake replacement on the GXP's. And, some say they had no indication of a braking problem. My brakes seem fine. I have 16,000 miles on my 2006 GXP and will need an oil change in about two weeks. At that time I am going to ask them to check the brakes. My question is this: when you talk about grooves in the rotors, do you mean deep cuts. When I look at my rotors, and feel them, I have no cuts, but just lines. Also, this may seem like a stupid question, but is the material or I guess camel rubber around the rotor the linings or pads. Someone said his were down to the metal. My camel padding around the rotor is thick. Also my rotors have drilled holes in them and seem smooth. Can someone answer my maybe "stupid" questions, please. Thanks. Chats1.
  • rmozolrmozol Posts: 124
    The only stupid question is an unasked one! Ideally, the rotors should be smooth and flat, with no scratches at all. This way, the pads grip a smooth flat surface; the more area, the more stopping power. Your talking about two tons of weight, at 60 MPH, being stopped by 30 square inches? When you drill holes, for whatever reason, they should be chamfered too. If not, the hole edges will dig into the pads. The pads can also leave gouges scratches, in the rotors too depending upon their material. The more gouging/scratching, the more wear. The "rule of thumb" is that if you can catch a fingernail on it, it's too deep and it's just a matter of time before repair/replacement. Minor scratching is just pad particles; dirt basically. The scratching won't really wear a rotor down, but the gouging will. There's also wear indicators on the pads that start squealing when they get too low. The factory pads only have this thing on the inside pad since that one wears the most since it's on the pistons. My inner pad was pretty close to the wear indicator, with only 2 K miles on it. The best thing to do is watch the pad wear, and measure the rotor thickness and monitor it. I'm not sure what camel padding is either.
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