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Chevrolet Impala: Problems & Solutions



  • cgallerycgallery Posts: 2
    Sorry if this has been discussed before.

    My mother has a 2000 Chevy Impala. Yesterday she picked it up from the dealer after they worked on the brakes, and drove it home. She felt the brakes weren't quite right and asked my brother to test drive the car for her and let her know his opinion (he has operated the car before so his opinion is of some value compared to, for example, mine).

    Upon backing it out of the garage, my brother discovered that the steering wheel turned freely. It has become "disconnected" from the rest of the steering assembly.

    They (my mother and brother) called AAA, and the truck driver mentioned that there seemed to be a part missing. He said that it was either a knuckle or part of the knuckle. I need to speak to the truck driver more. But, he said he had never seen suck a thing before.

    The car has been towed to a different dealership to have them examine the problem, but I'm wondering if this is a typical issue. The previous dealer has disassembled the steering column at least once (last November) for some issue, I'm hoping my mom can find the paperwork.

    I'm thankful my brother didn't make it to the expressway, but I'm thinking that I'd like my mom to trade the car in on something that doesn't have any steering column issues. Am I over-reacting?

    And, is there anything I should specifically ask the dealerships about the condition of the steering column? Andthing I need to know to speak with them intelligently?

  • dgonzalez13dgonzalez13 Posts: 110
    Police package Impala's had 2 or 3 incidents of something similar in the steeering happening in accident or obscenely rough driving incidents. That is such a BIG issue I would go back to the dealer with her and really stir up trouble. I cant imagine her having much confidence in the car after something like that. Maybe even ask another dealer to fix it if the first dealer or GM regional manager will approve paying the bill for sending it toanother dealer. The mechanic(s) at your dealership obviously arent paying attention to what they are doing. Really, push to have it fixed at another dealer. If your 3/36k mile warranty isnt up yet, ask them to extend it another year or 12k miles because of this screwup and the fact that you dont trust the work they did on the car. They may be open to accomodating the extra warranty request (Regional GM Manager should give it to you in writing).
  • canddmeyercanddmeyer Posts: 382
    Make a complaint via the web to the NHTSA. Luckily, no one was hurt.
  • sim3sim3 Posts: 66
    My turning signals started living their own life (i.e. signalling without telling it to), and I took it to a shop to have it looked after. They said the turn signal switch & electronics was broken and that I'd need a new one.

    As luck would have it, I live in Finland and the local shop gave a $800 price for the part. That's somewhat too much, considering sells it for less than $200.

    Now, I _think_ the part I want is GM part# 26093873. I've been unable to really find any information or pictures on it anywhere. I wonder if someone could help me and say whether this is the right part for a 2001 Impala LS.
  • txguytxguy Posts: 57
    The mechanics I talk to say stay with Dex Cool, but change it at least every 3 years or 36,000 miles. It does break down and become corrosive if left in for long periods.

    Another PM often overlooked is changing brake fluid. Brake fluid attracts moisture. Modern braking systems can't handle the corrosion set up with moisture in the system. Better to flush the brake system every couple of years than replace a $1500 ABS computer.
  • Received a notice of recall for my '03 Chev Imp
    3.8. This engine may develope a coolant leak at
    the upper intake maniford to throttle body gasket or the lower intake to upper intake gasket.
    They replace about 3 fasteners, takes about 1/2 hour.
    Also two of my 'buddies' and myself had to have the emergency brake adjusted. Anyone else?
  • jeirichjeirich Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 Impala and it has happened before. I've done a little research but no one has said how they fixed it. The other night it rained really hard. My wife and I were getting ready to head over to her dads and the pass floor board was full of water. I look at the cabin filter and noticed that it was damp. I looked like that it ran right down through the blower motor. A few of the seals looked worn. I'm going to try and call the local dealer and see if they've run across this. I might try and replace all of the seals around the cabin filter.

    If this has happened to you, could you please let me know who the dealer or you fixed it. My car is not under warrenty anymore and I'll fix it myself if possible.


  • Hi,

    I recently had the recall work done on my manifold which fixed the problem with leaking coolant. However, since I've had the car back, my coolant light keeps going off and on. My levels are fine and the car is running cool at a cucumber. Anyone have an idea how to get the Gremlin out of my coolant light?


  • Brad, I had a similar problem. It came up on the second day I owned the car too. (purchased a 2000 used) It turns out the Dexcool in my car became VERY corrosive, and killed the sensor.

    Get this, I took it in to get fixed, and they only replaced the sensor; 3 days later, the old DexCool ate the new sensor too.

    The dealer finally gave in, and replaced the both the sensor and the Dexcool. I haven’t had a problem since.
  • I seem to have this problem in a 2000 LS that I bought used w/50k on it. Now have 60k and it is getting worse. I have read posts from Page 18 on. No one has indicated where the ISS is located. In the cabin? Outside the cabin starting at the steering knuckle perhaps and going towards the cabin? Have not read that anyone has fixed this problem himself. Has anyone? I am not a mechanic, but I can turn wrenches. I replace brakes, radiators, water pumps, etc. If this is going to be recurring I would like to know how to fix it myself. Where does the lubricant get applied? In earlier posts found some excellent links to web sites of pictures related to the coolant leak/warping head problem. Anything like that available for the steering shaft/engine cradle?

    I assume the engine cradle is what the engine sits on in the engine compartment. I can't picture using adhesive here, but I read that it is done. Has anyone done this himself? How, where? What adhesive? Then let the car sit for 24 hours after applying?
  • tepst12tepst12 Posts: 8
    Post #690 listed the same problem I am having as of recent.

    Turned on the car when I was leaving work and cranked up the AC. AS the car cooled off I lowered the switch from 4 to 2. Eventually 2 was too much so I switched to 1. I noticed it was a bit more quiet than normal, in fact there was almost no air flow from the vents. I fooled with every control for a while, but can't seem to figure it out.

    My question is this, is it the motor or the switch? I'll have to check voltage to see....
  • Somehow my son has switched the odometer in our 2000 LS from miles to Km. Any ideas how to switch it back!
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Posts: 870
    If you've got the driver information center (DIC/trip computer), you have to press down a couple of buttons simultaneously on it to switch back and forth from standard to metric. I'm not sure how things switch if you don't have the DIC.
  • sirod75sirod75 Posts: 2
    I bought a 2000 Impala LS over a 100k. Everything seems great with the car but I have only one problem, when the car is standing still in any gear and when the air is off the car starts to overheat. I don't believe I have any loosing coolant issues. Do any of you guys have an idea what the problem might be?

  • txguytxguy Posts: 57
    Your radiator cooling fan sensor/switch may be faulty. If it doesn't overheat when your a/c is running then that is most likely the case. The a/c turns on the radiator cooling fan directly, but when the a/c is off the normal cooling sensor/switch isn't turning the fan on.
  • txguytxguy Posts: 57
    Has anyone gotten any feedback on the use of sealant as part of the intake manifold "fix"? I'm not comfortable with that solution to the problem. It seems like a quick fix and a source of problems down the road (so to speak).
  • My first thought has been not to get the "fix". Putting sealant in the system cannot be good for it over the long haul. If it really works, who knows where it will work once inside the system.
  • rbb2rbb2 Posts: 70
    I had a friend tell me to get it done right away. My thoughts on the sealant is if it is bad GM is going to pay to fix that because we were only doing what they told us to do.

    My friends comments were:

    "Get it done now. If the coolant leak did happen, it could go into the engine and seriously damage it. The coolant is so corrosive to an engine that it can eat the bearings and screw it up permanently. No real way of knowing whether coolant is leaking into your engine until it's too late. By then the serious engine damage has occurred and you will then have to get a new
    engine. What happens a lot of the time is the coolant will leak slowly and then GM will stop the leak by fixing it, but some engine damage may already have occurred. You will never know until your car dies at 50,000 miles because the bearings went out. That's not something to fool with. I'm familiar with this cause Saturn used to have the same problem. People kept driving their cars, damaging them without even knowing it. GM would only replace the engine if it seized."
  • bh0001bh0001 Posts: 340
    Have encountered the first real problem with my '01 LS (84,000km / 52,500miles). The SIR coil (??) or cancelling cam in the steering wheel is going bad. The symptom was the air bag light going off and on intermittently and a slight grinding sound from the steering wheel when turning. If the air bag light is on, the bag will not deploy in a crash.

    Here's the kicker. My extended warranty does not cover air bag components (apparently this is farily common). I have AutoGuard for 5 years/165,000km purchased form the dealer when I bought the car. The service advisor at my dealer tried to get it past them under a different part name, but they didn't fall for it. Cost? $330 parts and $200 labour plus taxes!!!!!

    I'm going to push GM on this one. I don't think it's appropriate for a 27 month old car to have this type of important safety feature fail. I'll keep everyone posted on what happens.

    Overall I still really love my Impala!
  • bh0001bh0001 Posts: 340
    Very strange. Got in my '01 LS this evening, started it up, and had no dash lights. Turns out that the fuse for the rear marker lights blew. Interesting design to have the dash lights on the same fuse as the rear marker lights. Everything else worked fine (headlights, front marker lights, brake lights, turn signals front and back).

    I replaced the fuse and everything was fine again. The the fuse blew again within a couple of minutes of me leaving my driveway.

    Off to the dealer again in the morning I guess. Has anyone else had this problem?
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