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Chevrolet Impala: Problems & Solutions

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  • cidecarcidecar Posts: 2
    Have been doing my own brakes for years. I just bought a 2004 Impala 3.4. I am taking the factory brake pads off all four wheels and replacing them with the cheapest soft pads from NAPA. I would rather put new pads in every 30,000 miles than replace the rotors and, it's not much of a job. I have owned many four wheel drive vehicles and replacing the rotors is time consuming and expensive. Not to mention there is a lot more to take apart than your typical front drive car. I service my transmissions by power flushing them. I may have to have a shop do it on the Impala but it will keep the tranny lasting longer. We have an older Explorer and had a Ranger pick-up. With these two you can disconnect a transmission line at the Radiator and they will pump themselves out. All you do is add the same amount of new fluid as what is being pumped and pretty soon you have a clean tranny! I don't know if GM can do that but I'm going to find out. If anyone knows that answer please post or reply to this. Good luck with your car.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    "I don't know if GM can do that but I'm going to find out. If anyone knows that answer please post or reply to this."

    Yes. It's an automatic transaxle with a rad mounted cooler. Nothing special.
  • Hi Garypen,

    No, not necessarily. The noise can occur at any time for no apparent reason. I thought it might get better as the weather got warmer (less expansion and contraction with hot and cold), but even in the summer it happens. It seems to be getting worse. Unless it gets totally unbearable, however, I don't think I am going to invest a lot of money and time by having the dealer take the dash apart to fix the problem. The weird thing is, I have owned the car for almost three years, and the problem didn't materialize until the past year. You would think that the problem would have been there since day one.

    Thanks for your interest!

    Frank :D
  • Hi Folks,

    I was wondering, where is the fuel filter located in a 2000 LS with the 3.8L V6?
  • 76637663 Posts: 1
    The dealer tells me I'm the only one having this problem. 2005 Imapala LS, 8500 miles. But it has been doing the same thing intermittently since 1000 miles or so. The dealer put in a recorder since no faults were showing on the computer. The recorder has been activated twice and nothing shows. The dealer doesn't know what to do. I suggested the lemon law be invoked.
  • charts2charts2 Posts: 618
    Fuel filter is located below where you put the gas into the car. Look up under the rear drivers side fender up towards the gas filler pipe you will see it.
  • I have had my car into the dealer now for 2 weeks and it will create the problems I have when I drive it. It is still at the dealers so I cannot offer any new info.
  • spikeyspikey Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a used 2003 chevy impala former police cruiser,
    I cannot get the courtesy lights to turn on when doors are open . i tried the survillance switch and reconnected one cut wire purple. the daytime running ligths come on ok, but the courtes lights still remain
    unlit ,bulbs ok . Ant Suggestions ?
  • I'm new to this forum and after searching haven't found this problem....

    I have a '01 LS that has been nearly 100% problem free until recently when it became very sluggish. It has no pick when under-stress.. by that I mean if you punch it, it just sits there, where as a slow steady foot will bring it up to speed, but not without hesitation. Once at highway speed it acelerates better, but only if nudged slowly- There doesn't seem to be any strange noise from the engine. It starts just fine, idles around 1500 (a bit high?). Reving while in Park sounds normal. My initial thought was transmission, but am now leaning more twoard fuel system. The problem appeared all at once, which is why I thought trasmission- I am very open to suggestions and do not want to take it to a mechanic without a better idea of what the problem might be.
  • Could be the catalytic converter is clogged. That should be under warranty. My 2001 just had it replaced two months ago. It was sluggish and did not accelerate well.
  • Thanks for the suggestion.. Is there a way to test for this? No matter what the problem ends up being, it's certainly not under warranty. I'm just about to roll 100k :)
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Engine at operating temp, install a vacuum gauge and check manifold vacuum at idle. Should be around 18"-20" Hg. Bring the engine up to 2,500 r.p.m. for 15 seconds. Gauge will typically drop then recover to a higher value than at idle. If after 15 seconds the reading is even 1" Hg lower than at idle, there's an exhaust system restriction.
  • Okay, here's my quick story. Same exact problem, only be prepared that it get's worse. I tok mine into the dealer at 78,000 miles and was told this is a government recall and is under warranty. Did not pay for anything other than freight since dealer did not have in stock and was going to takle a week to get in. Hope this helps.
  • I am having the same problem, told me 2 weeks ago it was the battery. Guess what I was stranded again same problem lights, radio, horn all works as reported to dealer the first time before the new battery and now it happen again. Nothing when the key was turned on. Any luck with your problems?
  • walsh4walsh4 Posts: 1
    My '02 just became sluggish very recently. Under hard acceleration, it won't go above about 4000 rpm before it just kind of cuts out (kind of like it's bouncing off a rev limiter). Idles normal and cruises on highway okay as others have said previously. Couple of weeks ago, high voltage warning light came on just after starting the engine. I shut it off and on, and haven't had that problem since. Not sure if related to sluggishness or not? Would be nice if it's under the same waranty drewcrew mentioned ...
  • Did you ever get this problem solved? I am having the same trouble. Had to have it towed and they said it was the battery. Two weeks here I am again stranded with the same description of what is going on? Seems like my dealership doesnot have too much interest in helping me correct the problem. Could it be the BCM? Thanks
  • hi i am a 2000 impala i just bought it today and the headlights will not work on dim i dont know what it is i know alot about cars my dad is a machanic but we cant figure it out so if you do please tell me
  • charts2charts2 Posts: 618
    First thing check to see if the bulbs are burned out. (rare for both to be burned out-but possible) find out from the place of purchase if you can get the previous owners name, that might help.
  • bh628bh628 Posts: 100
    Hi,
    I'm going to be moving and the parking spot will be near a bunch of big trees. A future neighbor told me that he gets tree sap onto his car a lot. It rains a little most days and that gets rid of a lot, but i want to protect my new Impala.

    Would a car cover help? about how much would one cost?

    thanks so much. I'll let you guys know about my car shipping experience--the car is scheduled for pickup this coming week.
  • Was it covered because the mileage was low enough or was this a recall that would be covered regardless of mileage? I just had the same problem with my 2001LS with 95K miles and the dealer replaced the converter, but never mentioned any government recall. Should I contact the dealer regarding this?
  • I just had the same problem. The Passloc security system needs to be replaced. If you take it to a GM dealer, it will cost roughly 400 bucks. The sensor is bad, so the vehicle thinks it is being stolen. Hence, the reason it won't start.
  • tweety6tweety6 Posts: 2
    hi,
    i have the same problem on my 2004 chevy impala too. i only had my car for 8 months and it is out of factory warranty. i called the chevy customer service about it and they told me that if it is a factory problem then they would pay half of it and i had to pay the other half
    to get it fix. i have extended warranty too and they told me that it doesn't cover the windshield leak so i am having problems just like you. if you find out what to do with your leak please let me know too.

    tweety6
  • tweety6tweety6 Posts: 2
    Hi i have a 2004 chevy impala and i was wondering if anybody else have the same problem i do. i called alot of places to find out what i can do about the windshield leaking and everybody i have talk too said that there is nothing i can do. i only had my car for 8 months and when i got the car it had 32,000 miles on it. now it has 37,000 miles on it and the factory warranty is 36,000 miles. i talk to the chevy customer service and they told me that they would pay half and i have to pay the other have to get it fix. i don't think that is right that i should have to pay half to get it fix because it is not my fault that it leaks. i also called the dealer where i bought my car from and told them about the leak. the dealer was really rude to me and told me that he had complaints about the chevy impala's leaking and the GM should fix it. i need help on what to do because my mom is really mad about the car and the dealer that sold me the car. i forgot to tell u that when i talked to the chevy customer service i told them that it was leaking and she said by the windshield but i didn't tell where it was leaking. it only leaks when it rains really hard and now my car stinks because the carpet is ruined.

    thanks tweety6
  • hchu1hchu1 Posts: 17
    You should contact Chevrolet's District office and talk to a customer service person who is not connected with a dealership. Stick to the facts of your problem, you can also go to another dealership for second opinions. Lastly, if you don't get satisfaction or at least a reasonable explanation of what your options are, contact your local Better Business Bureau. The BBB has a relationship with all the major auto manufacturers and you can request a arbitration hearing. Similar to going to court, you present your case and Chevrolet presents their side and the Arbitrator decides what should happen. I believe this should cost you nothing, but your time. If the Arbitrator finds in your favor they may direct you get service at any dealership not just the one you bought it from. In fact, better to get it from someone else, you already had a bad experience once why go back?

    Also, let the District office know about your complaint about the dealership you bought your car from separately from your immediate problem. They are really two separate issues. The following is a number you can contact Chevrolet Customer Service: 1-800-222-1020. Ask for the District Office nearest you, if it is close by a visit might not hurt. Good Luck. P.S. Check your state's Lemon Law, if worse comes to worse it may apply :) .
  • It all started when my fuse for the door locks kept blowing out then out of nowhere i came home went back out to my car to leave and no power no interior lights,no radio, nothing just put a new battery in 2 months ago. when i disconnect the battery for about 10 minutes, it starts back up now it flashes security/battery/service engine soon i can hear a ticking noise coming from the passager side fuse box and the interior light will flicker sometimes it s getting to the point that it wont start with disconnecting the battery and letting it reset itself then i'm lucky if it starts today out of nowhere the fob horn was going on and off about 15 mins apart. any suggestions would be helpful cant get it to the dealer until next week
    :cry: :confuse:
  • At this moment, it has been at the dealrship for 3 1/2 weeks and still reason for the problem. Unfortunately, it won't happen for them. So I now have a loaner car from them until this can be figured out. Hopefully by Christmas. I am thinking that it may be the coil but who knows. When the problem happens, it does not put a code into the diagnostic memory. Now we wait. Let me know if you find something out. Good luck.
  • mean1mean1 Posts: 11
    Here's a new one on me...my 2004 Impala has 11,000 miles and the brakes were pulsating and I'm guessing it's warped front rotors already. But to my surprise it was the rear rotors and the problem was caused by rust. The car had been sitting on the dealer's lot for so long that the rear rotors had rust spots on them. Evidently the rust spots penetrated the rotors and it was so deep they couldn't cut it out.They had to give me new rotors ( and brake pads) because they couldn't turn down the old rotors any more. Did anyone ever hear of a problem like this? I recall that the dealer invoice said the car came to them in December 2003 and I bought it in May 2004. I could see rust on the rear rotors but I figured it was just surface rust. Of course the warranty covered this repair: I hope it lasts.
  • mniebomniebo Posts: 1
    My 2000 impala is getting irritating it has the 3.8 V6 and when you accelerate at a normal speed it jerks or surges like it doesn't want to shift out of a gear usualy it is after it shifts into the higher gears for steady speed and it acts up more on hot days than any other can any one give me a solution it is currently in the shop. if you get on the gas it goes fine.

    It has 74000 miles and the converter has been changed under warranty
  • 2001 Impala base 3.4L. 45K.
    A couple of days after a trip of about 1500 miles, I just saw a big puddle of oil on the garage floor right beneath the engine. (I'm sure it's some kind of oil, not coolant). Before the trip, it had an oil/filter change and 15-point inspection, everything was fine. Now the oil stick level is a bit lower, the coolant level is just right.

    The car got a coolant leak 8 months ago, leaking from both head gaskets, according to dealer. The dealer replaced the gaskets, and changed engine oil as they mentioned the oil got contaminated by coolant. That time I learnt there is a notorious problem with GM gaskets.

    Could the leak this time related to the previous one?
    :cry:
  • txguytxguy Posts: 57
    Thanks to whoever (whomever?) suggested fuel system cleaner for clearing an EGR valve. The check engine light came on and when I ran the code it came back EGR in closed position. I priced a new one from the dealer, $235.00, Yikes! I remembered seeing on this forum something about running a fuel system cleaner to solve the problem. I ran a bottle of Valvoline SynFuel in with a fill-up of Chevron Premium fuel and the condition cleared within half a block after I left the service station. Waaaay cool! Thanks Forum members! Oh and my gas mileage shot back up again. I must have gotten hold of some bad gasoline somewhere. I normally run Shell regular only with addition of Synfuel cleaner, Techroline or BG44K every 3,000 miles. Seems to work well doing that. :shades:
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