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Chevrolet Impala: Problems & Solutions

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  • I am having the same problem. Its been at the dealer for 2 weeks and they claim they can't recreate the problem. No codes show up. Funny, it happened right after I picked it up from the dealer and then again when I dropped it off. It was happening for months, very intermittently, but then when it got hot, it happened every time I turned off the car. It would take minimum 20 minutes to reset it. The last time it took over 4 hours. I have a 2002 LS with about 43,000 miles on it.

    Please let me know if your dealer figures it out. email me at topazesq@hotmail.com
  • jrhss2jrhss2 Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with my 2003 Monte. It has happened twice. The first time I took it to the dealer they said the sunroof was not draining properly. (bunch of crap) but it has happened again. I have to take it back this Tuesday. I wonder what they will say this time. If you find out anything let me know. I will do the same. My email is jrhss2@sbcglobal.net

    Thanks you, Jr.
  • impalatimpalat Posts: 2
    Is anyone having problems with oil consumption? We have a 2004 Impala LS and it is using more than normal amounts of oil.

    Thanks,
    T
  • charts2charts2 Posts: 618
    What type of driving are you doing and how much oil are you using? I have a 2001 LS and my son a 2003 LS........He just did a motor trip (highway driving) 3300 miles and used about a litre of oil, or 1 US quart. I use about the same in my 2001 LS mostly city driving. I find that quite acceptable.
  • txguytxguy Posts: 57
    My 01 Imp LS 3.8 has 137,000 miles and uses no oil between changes. I run MobileOne synthetic and change usually at 4-5,000 miles. For me that is about every 60 days. My travel is about 90% freeway with no stop and go. I put it on the synthetic oil at 40K miles. Is synthetic worth it? I'll let you know in a couple of years. :-)
  • impalatimpalat Posts: 2
    The type of driving was highway and city, and I had to add 1-quart at 1500 miles.
  • gregp5gregp5 Posts: 51
    I have an 04 LS thats on it's second compressor in 30k miles.
    It makes a whiny noise most noticable in first and second gear(auto trans).
    I'm thinking about having the dealer look at it again, but I'm wondering, does anyone else have(had) this problem also ?
    Under acceleration does your Impala make the same whine ?
    Perhaps I'm being too critical ?

    Thanks.
  • lostwrenchlostwrench Posts: 288
    I called the dealership service department today and reported my pulsating brake pedal and rumble sound when braking at higher speeds. They said it is probably warped rotors. I told them, geeze, the Impala is a 2004 with only 12,000 miles on it! They said, oh, we've seen rotors go that fast. This car was bought in November 2003. I pulled off the wheels and can see rust spots on the rear rotors only. It feels like the problem is in the front though. The car goes in next Monday.
  • lostwrenchlostwrench Posts: 288
    Talking to the dealer service department today and inquiring why the rotors on my 2004 Impala need to be replaced even though the car has just 12,000 miles on it, they said: It could be the new hard composition of the brake pads building up heat on the rotors, hard stopping, or driving through a puddle when the rotors are hot.
  • charts2charts2 Posts: 618
    There have been issues with the brake rotors on some of these cars. Many have posted during the past few years. Brake rotor problems are not exclusive to the Impala. I think most car makes have had brake issues. My friend has a 2001 LS, like I have and he had his REAR rotors replaced at 15,000 miles under warranty. The service manager indicated his rotors were defective. It could be a problem with bad batches of rotors, or brakes not adjusted properly. A lot could be to do with driving habits. The Police Impalas use the same brake set up as the civilian cars. Going through water when rotors are hot is really not an issue with warpage. They are designed for all weather purposes. Many who drive highway miles exclusively have reported over 70,000 miles of no trouble and little wear on the pads, and the rotors still true. Hopefully the dealer will replace your rotors under warranty.
  • I think that I am having a similar issue with my impala. I recently had to have a radiator flush due to a mix of red and green coolants which, incidentally I didn't know that they attacked each other and congealed. Anyhow, ever since my car over heated ( a result of the mixed coolants) I have had any issue when my car gets near the half way point on temp gauge. I have gotten out of my vehicle while it is running to check the mail and then have it die on me. And it would not start again until it had cooled a little. My mechanic has burned two tanks of gas trying to repeat this intermitant problem, with no success. But, of course every time my wife has the car with our newborn, it does it. I told my mechanic about what temp the problem occurs at and he told me that was an ideal temp for my car. I dont get it, my mechanic doesn't get it and I'm just getting more angry by the moment. The car is a 2002 with 33,000 miles on it. It shouldn't be doing this. If anyone has any input I would greatly appreciate it.
  • charts2charts2 Posts: 618
    I think you have two different problems. if your temperature gauge gets to the halfway point thats normal. If it exceeds the halfway point and doesn't come below within a minute you might have a thermostat or water pump problem. I don't think there is a short term problem with mixing the two coolants. In the long haul the different properties can cause corrosion.

    I would go to a certified radiator shop or chevrolet dealership and have them check out your cooling system. The stalling problem is probably something else.
  • I have a 2002 Impala LS with around 34,000 miles on it [out of warranty]. Nowadays, I notice that when accelerating, it seems to stall. If I stay below the 2000RPM range, then it seems to be fine - but the moment the quick push of the accelerator gets the RPM around 3000, there is a stalling [most noticeable with the AC running]. I also feel a slight flutter at lower speeds when accelerating.

    I did change the air filter at around 30,000 miles and things were fine. I also tried a bottle of Chevron Techroline cleaner but that didn't help.

    In terms of my automotive repair choices, I seem to have two main choices:

    1. Get the dealer to perform a diagnostic at around $96
    2. Speculatively replace the fuel filter and get fuel injection service at around ($140 combined)

    I checked the maintenance schedule and it doesn't seem to have anything on fuel filter and fuel injection service schedule. From general experience, are these generally required at this mileage - i.e. by going for option 2, am I essentially throwing money away or it is a good thing to do anyway at this mileage and if it fixes the problem, then I save the diagnostic fee?

    By the way, in my discussion with the dealer, he also mentioned transmission fluid replacement - but the maintenance manual calls that out at 50,000 in city/towing/hilly area [I do live in a hilly area]. So is 34,000 miles too soon for that?

    Thanks in advance for any tips and guidance!
  • Well, the dealer finally figured out it was the fuel pump that went (after 3 others told me it was the fuel pump and my regular mechanic and the dealer said, no its not that). It had better be the fuel pump b/c its costing me close to $700 b/c I'm at the dealer and the car isn't drivable.

    Maybe Ladyimpala's car has a fuel pump issue?
  • louannelouanne Posts: 2
    hi
    had the same problem two weeks after i got my car. the dealership fix it. they had to reseal the bottom of the windshield. it has be ok since. i know that you dont want to pay for this but any glass company should be able to fix the problem. someone else i know had the same problem but his was the incabin filter that was stopped up. this is located on the passagener side at bottom of windshield. i hope they fix the problem. good luck
  • louannelouanne Posts: 2
    my 2002 IMPALA WILL NOT START SOMETIMES IT CRANKS BUT KINDA ACTS LIKE IT IS NOT GETTING GAS. MY HUSBAND THINKS IT IS NOT GETTING FIRE BUT EVERYTIME THIS HAPPENS HE IS NOT THERE AND WHEN HE GETS THERE IT STARTS UP. MAYBE IT IS THE FUEL PUMP
  • Hello all, I've had the 01 Impala for over 2 yrs now and never had any serious issuies until lately. I've checked the board and it seems i'm having problems that some of u are familiar with. "Car won't start". Bout a week before that the 'security' light would come on and the power locks quit working.
    When it doesn't start, i turn the key and the engine never cranks. I can press the windows down and up and the blinkers work but the engine never turned. Waited a few hours and it cranked up. Then i took it to the dealer but he said he couldn't do anything for since it seemed to be working fine for him. All it pulled up on the machine was "security" or "security codes" or something like that he said. Well yesterday it wouldn't start again and i was stranded. Got a ride out to the car and it still wouldn't start so i left it in a parking lot overnight. The next morning i went out there and tried again and it still wouldn't start. I disconnected the battery and left it off for about 2-3 minutes. Reconnected it then started the car. I was relieved to be able to take the car back home. Only problem is when i put the car in reverse which is when my autolock is supposed to do its thing, the security light pops back on. Oh yeah, there is also the clicks.
    So has anyone had any success solving this problem?? The Passlock sec. seems the "key" suspect. Could i need new keys?? Fuel pump and ignition switch are contenders. The Body Control Module is my worst fear. I hope its something simple like a bad battery cable. Can anyone help??
    1 love
  • I started seeing the intermittent "SECURITY" light on my 2001 when I was driving down the road, the indicator would come on for 2-3 mins and then go out. Didn't see any other effects from it. Well, I'm a little anal about warning messages so I took it into the dealer. Turns out the security module was throwing codes and I had it replaced (no charge to me since I have a warranty policy on the car from my friendly local Credit Union!). Now I'm starting to see intermittent "Low Coolant" messages, the sender in the radiator is probably going bad.

    We had one of our people on NewImpala dot com swear her car was possessed, it was turning lights on & off, her windows were self-activating, and the gauges were going whacko on her, she thought she was in a horror movie! Her posts are worth reading if you're having electrical problems...

    Take care
    Eric
  • gisdudegisdude Posts: 1
    2002 Impala LS... I am wanting to replace the front disc pads and rotors. I have done this on other cars before but I am wondering if there are any special tricks I need to know for the Impala.... ie, left hand threads, special tools required etc...

    Thanks in advance
  • qfest1qfest1 Posts: 1
    Have you solved your vent selector switch problem? If so, what did the dealer charge for the repair or were you able to install the selector switch yourself? Any info would be helpful as I believe I have the same problem with a 2002 Impala.
  • Hello qfest1,

    It did solve the problem. The car was only 3 months old at the time (Dec. 2001) w/ 2300 miles, so the dealer fixed it under warranty. I don't remember how much it could have cost. If I find the repair slip and it mentions it, I will update the message. For some reason, $170 sticks in my head.

    I looked it up in my Helms manual. If you are comfortable digging into the instrument panel, I think you could do it yourself. It mentions removing the IP trim plate bezel and the front floor console. From there, unscrewing it and and removing the connectors. Then installing the replacement in the reverse procedure.

    One thing I would caution is that it might be one of two items. I found the item "HVAC control assembly replacement" which is what I believe was replaced on mine. The manual also has a section on "HVAC control vacuum valve replacement". It is unclear from the description and pictures, but it seems like it might be a component of the HVAC control assembly.

    Hope this helps and good luck.
  • nopowernopower Posts: 2
    I was just wondering if your problem was solved? Because I am having the same problem. We had it put on a diagnostic machine and they came up with the code DTC PO300 we replaced a plugs and wires and a couple other parts I think it was a core pack? He is ready to pull the rest of his hair out, what little bit that he has left. This did not help, it made it worst. Can someone please help us, we have spent over $300.00 and we are on a fixed income. Not to mention our Chevy S10 problem to deal with, the A/C.
    Had the brake rotor issue, frontend issue, backwindsheild seal coming off, the loud humming noise in the right side oh not to mention I am losing break fluid ?
    Thanks everybody for sharing all your experience you've had with your (my baby)car. I do not know whether I want to keep this car we have 85k miles it now.
    When it rains, it pours.. :0(
  • saltrsaltr Posts: 1
    Hello All; I have check eng light on, when scanned, comes back to DTC P0440 which indicates EVAP EMISSIONS MALFUNCTION. I replaced the gas cap, reset the ECM,light still comes on after a few days.I noticed when refueling, that there is an absence of pressure when I release the gas cap.Anyone have any experience with this problem? Thanks-saltr 01 Impala LS 3.8.
  • I too had had some transmission slipping. Thankfully, my father-in-law is a transmission pro. Apparently when you change your transmission fluid, you also have to put a tube of shutter stop in with the transmission fluid. It stopped the slipping and I haven't had a problem since. You can find shutter stop at any transmission shop (be careful though, they all tried to tell me that it wouldn't fix the problem and they would have to look at) for about $6.00. Sounds like this came a little too late but hopefully will save someone else from spending a ton of money.
  • my ac switches stop working like the recirculate button to change from inside air or outside air any suggestions
  • ya you got to buy the wiring harness to put yor factory radio in the trunk it is something like 500 dollars
  • well i would check the power wires going to the starter and starter silenoid check the all the way up and down
  • My 2002 Impala has a problem with the turn signals not working when it's humid or raining. Has anyone else had a similar problem, or can anyone advise how to get it fixed, especially before I have to get my state inspection done before month's end and I'm sure they would like my turn signals working!
  • Unfortunately no replies to my message. But in the spirit of helping others, just wanted to mention the outcome of my issue. I took my car to the dealer. The service representative was nice enough to do a quick drive the car and suspect the transmission - so he persuaded me that we should do a transmission diagnosis. Unfortunately, they didn't get to it that day and I took my car back that day (Wed). The next day, as I drove the car, I was more or less convinced that it was a transmission problem since the car would tend to stall more when going up hill. When I changed to a lower gear, it took off. Anyway, dropped off the car to dealer on Fri. The dealer diagnosed it as a constricted catalytic converter. Fortunately, the catalytic converter is covered beyond the 3yr warranty and was replaced by the driver. Now that the acceleration is back - you guys watch out for this maniac in the Impala!
  • We FIXED it!!!! Even though our car showed Code PO300 it was the catalytic converter!
This discussion has been closed.