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Chevrolet Impala: Problems & Solutions

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  • My 2000 Impala has been cutting out completely for about six months now at the most random times, highway and city driving, although I do notice it happens more after a long drive. I just recently had it happen as I was making a left turn through a four lane intersection. Not fun. The dealership in Cheyenne told me my crankshaft sensor was malfunctioning. I have done some research and found that it is a fairly common thing for impala owners. The part price quote was around $65. See if that works for you.
  • Is anyone having a problem with the 2003 Impala low tire sensor?? I've had mine 'pop on' twice while on a trip. The tires were OK and within a max of two lbs of each other.
    It's under warranty and I have an appointment in the AM . I was just wondering if this is common or not.
    Rodger
  • naba00naba00 Posts: 4
    Thanks alot for your help! Went to a couple of glass guys and none of them had a clue after I explained this to them. They all tell you you need to clear the drains (leaves debris, etc.). Well I had them take the parts out (wiper shroud,etc.) and I showed them where it was leaking. We sealed a sort of "oval shaped hole in the sheet metal" that had a black "plug" the fty. put it in. This plug was not sealing the hole well. I think this will fix it. It seems from what you wrote, a round black plastic seal ABOVE the black wiper shroud was allowing water to seep in. Unfortunatley I only understood this after I made the repair and re-read your msg.. I looked on my Impala and sure enough this seal is defective as well (though I don't understand how the wipers could ever reach that far down and break it (in your case). I'll probably just seal this myself with black silicone. Thanks for your help could hv. never found it so fast without you!
  • does anyone have information on this? One person suggested a faulty ignition switch causing this.
  • ales1ales1 Posts: 2
    Hey how much transmission fluid do I have to put in my tran...??????????? I have 3.8l eng. I dont have owner manul :-( Thanks
  • Capacities and Specifications
    Please refer to “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants”
    in the Index for more information.
    Automatic Transaxle
    Pan Removal and Replacement . . . 7.4 quarts (7.0 L)
    After Complete Overhaul . . . . . . . 10.0 quarts (9.5 L)
    When draining/replacing converter, more fluid may
    be needed.
    Cooling System Including Reservoir
    3400 (Code E) V6 . . . . . . . . . . . 11.3 quarts (10.7 L)
    3800 (Code K) V6 . . . . . . . . . . . 11.7 quarts (11.0 L)

    these are the capacities pasted directly from my owners manual of a 2002 impala owners manual avail. at following web site just register and download pdf

    https://www.mygmlink.com/main/US/en/gm/home?cmp=gmcomhp

    Chris
  • Me and my girlfreind had this problem on both my Impala and her Malibu, and the fix was exactly the same part.

    Hazard Signal Button is also the "relay" for the turn signals.
    If you can pop out the Hazard Signal button you press to turn on your hazards, you can replace it for $16 from the dealers Parts Department yourself. Takes about 10 minutes.

    Look for instructions on taking off the instrument panel cluster face plate on a website called impala HQ dot com. They have a "how to" page with directions on taking apart the IP Trim , once that is open and off, replacing the Hazard button takes 2 minutes and a small flat head screw driver.

    for me it was better than leaving the car at the dealer for a whole day and paying them $50 labor and $16 for the part. Just be sure you are in a driveway or someplace where you can have both front doors wide open while you work. it makes it easier to unscew the approx 8 screws holding the IP Trim plate to the dashboard.
  • ales1ales1 Posts: 2
    Thanks a lot Chris!!! I did complete overhaul for $800 + two days work on it so I have "new" tranny for $1100 :-) the problem was that I only 9.0 q ATF and tranny was kicking back after I put another q. ATF everything was OK and transmission is working very well !!!!!!! Ales
  • Just wanted to post my findings on the "no start" situation on the impala 3.8. I have found, for me, the clst/bcm fuse is the key. It is located on the drivers side fuse panel directly below the large "retained accsry pwr brkr". I can duplicate the "no start" situation by pulling this fuse. You can hear the the clicking inside the black housing directly below the fuse block, where the electrical wires enter the fuse block. Replace this fuse (10 amp) and see what happens. Hope it helps someone beside myself who is on the brink of spending hundreds of $$ only to find GM's finest cant figure out what is happening. If it works, be thankful some high school dropout could spell enough words to send this to you.

    Also, for me, the turn signal situation of not working has arisen a couple of times. I can get them working for again a long period by simply engaging the emergency signals and releasing it.

    Also, the fuel gage problem was eliminated by adding injector cleaner and a tank of premium (as per another's previous post).

    So far, I have been able to correct all the problems I have encountered with the Impala. Any questions that I can help with, send email to henco35@hotmail.com. Include a subject of HELP IMPALA as I dont usually read my junk mail, which is where your mail will arrive.
  • zskik2zskik2 Posts: 1
    When I turn the car on, the dashboard lights come on then they will go out except for a VERY dimly lit mileage amount, transmission selection, the radio time, and the overhead temp indicator. Sometimes I can manually turn on the lights and the interior lights will come back on. It'll do this when it's dark or light outside. Any ideas on what's wrong? I don't trust the dealerships around here. I had the clogged catalytic convertor and the dealer said it would be $780 to replace it. Not even three weeks later, I got the notice in the mail on it, after I had it fixed elsewhere.
  • Hello,
    I have had the same problem but did get it solved. Take off the air grate under the hood. Its at the bottom of the windshield . Theres a rubber gasket that keeps water out, yours like mine came unglued. I found this out when I had my windshield replaced. Problem solved, such an easy fix.
  • Joe,
    Your car alarm is arming it self while you are driving causing the car to shut down. This may be related to the sensor in the door on the drivers side. It's connected to the inside of the door handle rod. This sensors tells the the alarm and everything else that you are in it or not. Mine did the same including not remembering that I exited the car leaving everything active. Took my mechanic a week to find it. The repair with parts was $270. This may be the issue.
    Taranto
  • Night Owl, I have a 2001 Impala. The car alarm is arming itself, radio locks,car won't start. When I disconnect the neg battery side, wait ten seconds all funtions go back to normal, Took it to a dealer and $270 later still not right. The security lights come on battery light comes on, service light comes on etc. Question, are the back passenger doors related to the alarm? I have a broken door handle etc.
    Sal
  • wwnf1wwnf1 Posts: 1
    One hesitation problem that is unrelated to the traction control system is caused by the fuel pressure regulator. I had the hesitation after the car would sit for a few hours after running. Like going out to lunch from work. Dealership could never repeat the problem because it's hard to let it sit long enough to have it happen. But when I got the recall on the fuel pressure regulator and had it fixed, I have yet to see the hesitation problem.
  • I have a 2002 LS with only 48,000 miles. Just started having the same problem. Only my overhead starts working within 10 mins of driving then the Blower will come on. And I noticed that the cruise light will flash several times like flashing a code. Haven't taken it in to dealer yet. Hoping someone has found the real fix for this issue. As this car has been is maintained according to chevy and treated very well...You would think Chevy may have some knowledge as to what would cause this behavior. :mad:
  • rostyrosty Posts: 1
    My 2003 Impala is doing this same thing now with 32,000 miles. First the security light would just come on, for no reason during a drive, when first starting up. That happened six months ago, now about 3 weeks ago, the car would not start at different times and the security light would be on them for at least 15 minutes . We would try to start the car 1/2 hour later no problem and no security light on. But this week the car has not had any problems with starting. This sure is a major screw up on GM's part. Plus with all the impala's out on the market and used as police vehicle. You would think they have the answer by now. I don't want to take it to the dealer for them to make things worse.
  • Look at my message #1457. I, too, had the security light problem until I replaced the BCM fuse. Hope this helps.
  • I have the same problem with the passenger half of my split-zone heat/AC control gone dark on my 2001 Impala. How was your problem resolved? Is it an expensive repair? Thanks.
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Posts: 870
    I never got mine fixed...I was told the AC control is a complete unit that you'd have to buy and plug in, not something you could open up and replace the bulb in. I don't do too much driving at night with passengers, so it hasn't been too much of an issue, and as long as the driver's side is lit up at least you can find the controls in the dark. When my driver's side power window switch went out last summer I did hang onto the old one, since it contains a small light bulb or two that I thought might be the same as those in the temp control, but I've never taken the temp control out of the dash to look at it. Those bulbs were soldiered into the switch though, so not as easy as just unplugging from A and plugging into B.
  • I am having similar problem with 2001 Impala. While driving, the Security light comes on steady, and every once in awhile the battery/charge light comes on for about 2 seconds.
    Dealer checked Passlock system and charging system and has found no problems??? Will be going back to dealer for another look when light comes on again.

    Tom
  • I have a 2000 Chevy Impala and lately it has been making a weird noise when I accelerate. It did not do this until just recently. I think the Collision center that did my Body work and window did this (hit a 50lb turkey). I also notice that when I put my car in park and shut the car off that the doors no longer unlock. To further complicate things now the car will turn on but, when I put the car in drive, or reverse it won't move. I had to push my car back in my garage. My question is what is wrong with my car and about how much should it cost to fix.
  • I've also a 2000 Impala (3.8l engine) and recently I'm getting a whine coming from the transmission as I accelerate. I haven't noticed any other problems associated with it, but I have noticed if I spin the tires, the noise gets louder immediately (I switched to longer-life tires from a sportier tire this summer, and these tend to spin more on takeoff, even on dry pavement). Typically when I park it and then drive it again later, the noise isn't there...but now at low speeds I can definitely hear a whine, which is clearly tied to the speed of the car (pitch gets higher as car speeds up).

    As for the doors not unlocking, if you check your manual there's a way to set your preferences via the radio to turn that feature on and off...I've always had mine set to lock automatically, but to NOT unlock when I park...figuring that could provide an opportunity for someone to jump into my car unexpectedly.

    NO idea if the car won't move at all though...how many miles do you have on yours, and how long have you had the noise? If the noise is the sign of a pending problem that leads to the car not moving, that might be the incentive I need to have mine looked at now while it's still mobile!! :)
  • Well since it has gotten cold out again my temp gauge is quitting and fans are running constant.It was fine all summer after having the same prob last winter.I have changed sending unit twice I had to change cooling fans because bearings went from running all the time.And its hard to get good heat at 0 degrres with fans running.If i pull the PCM fuse for at least 20 min it will be fine for a while.What part could react to outside temp to cause this.The antifreeze temp and thermo are fine its electrical i think?
  • I was wondering if anyone has had a problem with air flow? I have a 2003 Impala and I only get cold air on the drivers side, no heat. The passenger side has heat! What can I do to fix this?
  • FWIW on the whine I was having with my 2000 model, I happened to check my oil last night and realized I was almost a quart low. I had a 1/2-quart on hand so I put in that much (I'm due a change soon, otherwise I'd have gone and bought a full quart), and noticed the whine wasn't there this morning as I went up my hill. Can't say for certain that it was related to low oil (or that the noise has been eliminated for that matter), but I almost seem to remember this happening once before. Anyway, passing it along FWIW.
  • fatfat Posts: 3
    I know thyat many times a problem can be complicated but,I also had this problem last night with my 2002.I have had not one problem(knock on wood) since I bought it new and (I really like this car very much) until last night when I tried to start it.It went balistic on me with every kind of click and other weird noise a car could possibly produce short of blowing up.I thought an alarm or shut down system had been inadverently activated...so I disconnected the battery until I could look this AM because it wouldnt stop even turned off..Well,low and behold,when I went to remove the battery since it was my starting point to check,the negative terminal post just simply fell out.There was no sign of errosion or anything.It looked fine but then I realized that I had done nothing to the battery since I bought it.Needless to say,I went and got a new one and all seems well again.I know this probably wont help much if any but, Im just posting to say that sometimes its a simple,seemingly stupid problem that can be easily fixed....yep even by a girl! As we say in the world of horses....start with the easiest thing first and take it one by one from there.Best of luck!
  • hchu1hchu1 Posts: 17
    What happened to Fat happened to me about a 2 months ago. I posted this earlier, but it might help to reiterate this. If you have the OEM battery check the positive terminal, they have a history of coming off. In my case I found out it was bad by simply trying to get my battery out. Trying to unloosen the terminal it just snapped off. I Googled and found that many others have had this problem. So, if you are having some electrical related problems and have the original battery have it checked out. Putting a meter to check for voltage won't necessarily indicate any problems. A load needs to be put on it, if it is bad this should help bring it out.
  • fatfat Posts: 3
    hchu1...you're right about that indicator....Mine didnt even show clear or yellow or whatever to indicate a low or problem with the battery.Even though it was your pos. post,it sounds the same.Thing is,there was no indication that I have experienced with other cars(like being dead in the water)that it would be a battery problem. Everything looked ok and pointed to something else ele.really.But I guess because that it has the RAP it just kept going nuts....until I diconnected and then it simply popped off when I went to remove it.Just thankful it happened at home!
  • fatfat Posts: 3
    Hey,Im no tec but do you think that since they have the seperately controlled temp for either side, your problem could be in the switch/temp adjustment or blockage on the drivers side? Just a thought...
  • jminkjmink Posts: 1
    My dash lights go out intermittently, my blinkers work intermittently, also when I push the rear defrost button my radio goes to static. Has anyone had similar problems? Any solutions? :lemon:
This discussion has been closed.