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Chevrolet Impala: Problems & Solutions



  • dollangeldollangel Posts: 7
    I too have the same problem and have to wait the 10 minutes for it to reset itself. I haven't had it looked at but it your car is still under warranty take it in asap. Your warranty will cover it. I do not have a warranty any longer so let me know what you find out and how much it would have cost you.
  • dollangeldollangel Posts: 7
    Get it back to the dealer. You are covered under the manufacture warranty. Everyone here under 100,000 miles can always purchase and extended warranty at any time. I suggest everyone should!
  • I recently had an oil change and a fluid checkup done on my 2001 impala ls. They stated the coolant was low so they topped it off. Then yesterday, after running the car idle with the a/c on for about 20 minutes in a parking lot, I drove it home and found a puddle beneath the car and the coolant apparently "boiling" in the overflow tank.

    Could they have overfilled the resevoir and would this be normal behaviour?

  • robilnrobiln Posts: 2
    I own a 2002 Impala LS. We brought the car in to be serviced in Nov 2002, the transmission was slipping, they fixed the problem because it was under warranty at 14,000 miles. We have also replaced the rotors because of hot spots, same problem, vibrations when breaking. This we p aided for! Now at just under 49,000 miles the transmission is is slipping again. We are still waiting to see what it will cost us, Will keep posted
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Posts: 870
    I think it's possible they could have overfilled the tank, and once it got up to operating speed it might have forced some of the excess coolant out...I'd keep an eye on it and as long as the coolant level stabilizes in the "normal" range on the reservoir I think you're fine.

    Of course, if the coolant is leaking out around the intake manifold, that's another story!!
  • sportymonksportymonk Posts: 258
    Another possibility is that there is a small hole in the radiator. If so, it is possible for the water to be pushed out of the hole under pressure and when the engine cools, air will be sucked back into the radiator. At that point you could be low on coolant but the recovery bag will still be full. You should always check the radiator itself occasionally and not rely on just looking at the coolant recovery bag.
  • kwhittumkwhittum Posts: 12
    I would strongly recommend from experience to get your car to a dealer soon (within two weeks) before the GM service bulletin expires. There is a known problem if you read this board with leaky coolent fluid. GM will fix it, but you need to ask! I believe the program ends in early July.
  • txguytxguy Posts: 57
    I looked at previous posts on this but didn't find out if anyone actually found the problem. My fuel gauge started showing full all the time, except for one or two times when it showed totally empty... neither accurate. I use the trip meter right now to estimate fill-ups.

    I just had the front wheel hubs replaced and wonder if there is some interaction going on with the BCM.

    Oh and just fyi - original rotors (some vibration but not bad) :shades and pads, no tranny problems and 26-29mpg. :P
  • sportymonksportymonk Posts: 258
    130K and still on the original brake rotors AND pads! Look Out folks, this guy don't use brakes! You must live on the interstate or are very lucky.

    The fuel gage problem sounds like the float is gone bad.
  • hchu1hchu1 Posts: 17
    I had this same problem with my 2000 LS, I presumed it was the fuel sender unit going bad and had purchased the sensor. But before installing it I decided to try some fuel injection cleaner, suspecting that there maybe some sludge binding the float. After one bottle, problem solved! I can't say this will fix it for you. I personally think I was lucky. If it works, great! If not, I have a fuel sender unit looking for a new home. :)
  • dazed10dazed10 Posts: 4
  • 02impalals02impalals Posts: 19
    I would take that car back to the dealer where you got it from and tell him that you are looking for ocean front property in arizona.

    Seriouslly. I would take that car back, get your refund and take your business somewhere else. let your friends know not to go their too. The car doesnt have any "chilld" safety feature like that. If you search these and other forums you will find simiilar issues,but with various solutions. Someone probably was trying to add something to the electrical an could have did some creative wiring or there could be some other issues. Fof the $$$ you spend even on a used car, i wouldnt take any crap from a dealer and i wounldnt put up with any car with issues right off the bat.

    Get your money back and do some research on used cars before you buy one. There are numerous books on used cars and known issues/recalls. It doesnt mean your going to have all of those problems, but it will give yoiu an idea on what to expect.
  • frank24frank24 Posts: 1
    2002 Impala - When the car has been running on a very hot day and is shut off there is a 50/50 chance it will not immediatley re-start. If allowed to cool for several hours it will start and run fine. The Impala was in the shop this past week for 4 days. They replaced the BCM and we thought it was fine. I spent over 5 hours at a Plaza on the Ohio turnpike on a 97 degree day a day ago. The car cooled for approximately 6 hours and started; I had no more problems in returning home - I did not shut the car off until I got home; when I got home the car started fine when hot. This problem has been going on for over a year. The car has been in the shop at least 4 times to correct the problem. It always occurs on a hot day. The engine turns over and is not getting fuel; my first thought was the security system malfunction then replacing the BCM module. AAA repairman said the fuel pump is freezing when it gets hot and has to cool. Is this possible? You don't want to drive this car.
  • terenceterence Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 impala with approximately 102150 miles. Just a few days ago I've noticed that my Trac Off and Brake indicator lights stay on at all times. I read the manual and it said that if the brakes get hot both will stay on until the brakes cool down. Has anyone else run into this problem? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
  • kwhittumkwhittum Posts: 12
    I read your post regarding the fuel gauge not working. I recently had my BCM module replace. I had never had problems with fuel gauge. This past week as luck would have it my gauge started bouncing all over from full to empty. It now stays on full. I too zero my trip odometer after every fill-up, but it would be nice to have a working gauge. Did you get your gauge fixed and if so what did they do and how much did it cost?
  • revjim64revjim64 Posts: 77
    Try new spark plugs and wires to help alleviate the rough idle.
    Try a code reader to see if any sensors are inoperative. (Autozone will do it for free if you have one in your area)
    As far as the transmission, you can probably change the tranny fluid and filter, it is probably due if it was'nt done before. If that doesn't help you may have to go to a tranny shop or dealer to diagnose and fix problem.
  • txguytxguy Posts: 57
    It is still malfunctioning with the exact symptoms as yours. I'm going to try the fuel system cleaner as mentioned in another post, just to see what happens.
  • txguytxguy Posts: 57
    It is possible this is an after market security switch. They sometimes route it through the turn signal, a power window switch or the headlight dimmer switch to create an additional theft deterrent. You can't start the car unless you input the correct combination.
  • txguytxguy Posts: 57
    You are correct... I drive 110 miles a day, about 95 are tollway or freeway with little or no traffic. I pick up the tollroad about a 1/4 mile from the house and don't touch the brakes again for nearly an hour.
This discussion has been closed.