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Chevrolet Impala Lighting/Electrical Problems

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Comments

  • rwmjwrwmjw Posts: 2
    I too have a 2000 Impala, 113,000 miles with similar problems. Its been going on for the past 4 months. I can be driving at 10 mph or 60 mph (speed doesn't seem to make any difference) the engine shuts off like I turned off the key. I put the car in neutral and typically it starts right back up and off I go. Was happening about once in approx 150 miles, as of late its happening more often. The problem is the shut down doesn't leave a diagnosis code. I have heard possibilities of a crankcase sensor, ignition switch, main computer, all expensive repairs especially if their not needed. Please let me know what you find out. I have been unsuccessful with my local chevrolet dealer.
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Little Rock, ARPosts: 872
    Doesn't sound like the fuel filter, but it's easy enough to replace (and relatively inexpensive). Sounds like more of an electrical/computer problem than fuel though...I'd think if it were fuel related it would sputter and die slowly versus just going out all at once.
  • tessmillertessmiller Posts: 10
    I spoke to a friend who works as a Chevi mechanic. I was told that it could be a fuel pump or a fuel filter that is causing the car to stall....just turns off, no battery light or security light but radio ect still works, just the gages go to zero like I turned it off....and that using 'cheap' gas could clog it up or if it is not put back on properly it can cause the car not to get the full firing.
    So, that's my first step. And I may take into a chevi dealer to see what they can do.
    I am moving in a couple of weeks and traveling over 1200 miles, so I really need this fixed!! :surprise:
  • tessmillertessmiller Posts: 10
    I should add that we replaced the ignition module on it, thinking that it could be that. My husband ran it around town driving it every where trying to recreate the stall and it ran fine....he then came home let it sit and then went to a friend's house...it sat again for a couple of hours. He went out to start it and it wouldn't turn over. I just don't understand it.
  • revjim64revjim64 Posts: 77
    Did you try replacing the "Passlock: sensor?
  • bxdbxd Posts: 186
    A high probably that it's the crankshaft position sensor. Shouldn't be terribly expensive, considering you've already thrown an ECM and an ignition module at the problem. Would be best to do some more troubleshooting. Next time it happens, if you're at home, can you check for spark with a tester?
  • bussmanbussman Posts: 4
    I have a short in my radio system . 1 had the radio replaced . This did not help. ran a hot wire to the radio from a another source. still did not help. Anybody have any other Ideas on what else to try. I have over 600. dollors in this all ready. I am ready to trade this car off. but I don't want to give this problem to anybody else.
  • cmimpalacmimpala Posts: 2
    A short can mean anything, describe in detail the issue.

    Or get an Ohm Meter and try the grounds and the power leads to figure out if it is grounding when it isn't supposed to. DO NOT forget the AMP in the rear trunk Deck it may be the culprit too? in a 2003 it should have been under warranty unless you went over the milage in the first incident.

    If all grounds are fine, then the power feeds should be checked. You can get a generic schema from any local dealership or audio shop.

    Let me know.
  • bussmanbussman Posts: 4
    I tested the short with the Ohm meter. there is about {1.6} amp going out the radio system. I unhooked the radio amp in the trunk. It cut the short to about {1.3}. I unhooked the radio receiver in the trunk. that cut it down to {1.2} amp. I cut out all the wires to the back of the radio one at a time . I found a{.2} amp in the power antenna. Now the radio has been replaced. It did not change a thing. Right now I put a switch in the hot wire to shut the juice off when we shut the car off. If you would have any other Ideas I would try about anything right now. thanks Dan
  • mrwaynemrwayne Posts: 20
    If all connections are fine, I'd say it could be a BCM internal short, or a partial short at one of its connections internally. A scan tool "might" be able to detect a communication problem, but this is just a guess.
  • My 2001 Impala LS Has 150,000 miles and running strong.
    The problem I'm having is that the battery will be dead after the car sets for two days. The battery has been replaced every 3 months for the last 9. No, shorts have been found. And on top of that my Fuel gauge only works when its in Park! I hope someone has Idea of whats happening!Thanks
  • mrwaynemrwayne Posts: 20
    If it is indeed the battery, perhaps it's an alternator, or a battery cable problem. Sounds like the gauge cluster is faulty, or the level sensor is dirty.
  • Hi everyone, I have a question about the security and a/c systems not working like they should on my moms 01 impala. I have never seen anything like this before, but then again I have always worked on hondas. The trouble is that sometimes everything works like it should, but then all at once the air will stop being cold; the message center will start to flash the battery then security indicators the radio will then read locked and will not work at all at this point. sometimes you can stop the car turn off the switch wait a few moments and try it again and everything will be just fine. then on the other hand most of the time when I try this the lights and everything on the dash remain on even after I have opened the door. If anyone has any helpful tips or tricks for this problem they would be a great help!! Thanks Alot you guys/gurls
  • The car always thinks the key is in the ignition. 1) Remote start won't work 2) Doors won't perform their automatic unlock when key is removed 3) With ket out of ignition (in hand) I open the door and the bell reminds me that I left the key in the ignition. On the phone the dealer is stumped. Thoughts?
  • mrwaynemrwayne Posts: 20
    Sounds like you need a new body control module.
  • mrwaynemrwayne Posts: 20
    I'd say there some kind of fault in either the ignition switch, or the body control module. Since the car is so new, I'd have the dealer scan and test the BCM functions. I once cured a content theft alarm problem in my 2001 3.8 by connecting the positive and negative battery cables together with alligator clips,(do not do this with the battery connected)but I don't recommend this trick with a vehicle under warranty unless absolutely necessary.
  • revjim64revjim64 Posts: 77
    I agree with the previous post. It is likely the BCM (Body Control Module.)is defective.

    I had the problem with the "SECURTIY" light flashing and the dash lights flickering and after having the BCM replaced the symptoms were gone.

    The dealer charged $360 to replace it. I was able to get GM to reimburse me for half the cost.

    I really think Chevy should recall all these BCMs!
  • My 2003 Impala had the exact problem you have described. I took it to the dealer and for $415.00 they replaced the body control module. Which only a dealer can do because they said it had to be reprogrammed from GM.
  • kjoshnkjoshn Posts: 4
    I was having the same battery drain on my 2002 impala with 92,000 miles on it. The only thing that was malfuntioning was that my digital radio clock would lose about 15 minutes overnight. As long as I drove the car every day everything was ok, but when I let it set for 2 or 3 days the battery crapped out. After 3 batteries and many hours pulling fuses and doing a current draw test on each circuit I found that the clst/bcm fuse was fluctuating between 500 and 36 miliamps. I was told that the draw on an idle vehicle should be no more than 45 miliamps. As a test I reset the clock, removed the fuse, recorded battery voltage (12.5 volts), and left the car set for 24 hrs. The next day the battery voltage was still 12.5 volts. I replaced the fuse, started the car and to my surprise the clock didn't lose any time. I think the BCM is telling something to work when it shouldn't be working but I'm not going to shell out $300 until I'm sure it's the problem. BE ADVISED THAT THE CAR WONT START WITH THAT FUSE REMOVED, but I'm pulling mine whenever I'm not using the car until I get the problem solved. P.S. The clst/bcm fuse is 10 amps located in the driver side fuse panel. Hope this helps.
  • bxdbxd Posts: 186
    BCM is the body control module. Helps monitor stuff like door position, chimes, etc. It is normal for it to draw perhaps 1/2 amp right after car is turned off, because some modules don't power down immediately. But after about 15 minutes it should be down to say 40 mA. To test this accurately, you need to close all doors, yank the fuse, and without opening anything measure the current. Maybe you already knew that. :shades:
  • kjoshnkjoshn Posts: 4
    The way I understand it is that the BCM controls just about everything electical in the car except maybe the engine and tranny. That's why when a new one is installed they need to know the vin number so every option that is in the car is programed in. Anyway, I did know about the doors needing to be closed. I hooked the meter up and laid it on the seat, closed the door and waited. It took about 5 min. to cycle down to 36 m/A's and another 5 min. to start cycling up and down from 36 to 500 m/A's. It stays on 500 for approx. 15 secs. and 36 for 5 secs. I watched this for about an hour and decided it wasn't going to stop. I just checked the battery volts again after 36 hrs. and it's still 12.5 volts. Put the fuse back in, started the car and the clock is keeping perfect time. So all I need to figure out now is it the BCM, cluster gauge assem. or the radio? Any suggestions anyone? For now I'm going to install a switch on that circuit and call it my anti-theft ignition kill switch. :)
  • Update on 2001 Impala Still won't start after 2 days.
    Alternator is good, I haven't had a problem with the clock
    or the radio. I don't really wanna miss with the BCM, but its not ruled out yet.
  • kjoshnkjoshn Posts: 4
    Sorry to hear you still have your problem. Believe me, I know the frustation your going through. I don't know if you read post #1897, but that's the position I'm in now. I did put a switch on the clst/bcm circuit and have not had any drain problems since. When the switch is off the power door locks,power trunk, dome lights ignition switch will not work. I hit the power locks when getting out before I turn the switch off and then use the key to get back in. I'm not a cheapskate and I would have a new bcm installed by the dealer in a second if I knew that was the problem. But before I did all of the above I got socked $450.00 for an altenator by a gm dealer who said it was bad. I knew it was charging and I thought they meant it had a shorted diode or something that was leaving the current backflow so I told them yo replace it. When that didn't work I took it back and they said the old alternator was bad and maybe the battery is bad also or I might have another problem. Needless to say I didn't have much faith in this service dept. and said good-bye. The only other thing I can tell you is that disconnecting that circuit doesn't seem to have any ill effects to the car after it's reconnected. It starts fine, runs fine and everything works the way it should, including my clock and no more dead batteries. So that's the way it's going to be for me until I can find the exact cause of this drain. Good Luck to you
  • mrwaynemrwayne Posts: 20
    It wouldn't surprise me if it were indeed the BCM. Some of them develop minds of their own, and do thing like flash lights and honk horns. After 6 months of weird electronic
    occurrences, I finally had my BCM replaced (and programmed).
    Besides the common security light and no-start problem, the power locks wouldn't work, and, if you're familiar with the 10 minutes of accessory power you have after you shut your ignition off, well, after ten minutes, my BCM would shut down fine, and then a few seconds later, it would come on again for a few seconds, then shut down again. It would continue to do this indefinitely. The new BCM solved all the problems I had. :mad:
  • kjoshnkjoshn Posts: 4
    Thanks for the feedback mrwayne. The problem you had certainly sounds like mine except everything works fine other than my clock loses time (10 -15 mins. in 12 hrs ) when the car is turned off. I guess every BCM has it's own personality. Well, I'm going to bite the bullet and take it to the dealer and have it checked. Could I ask you the approx. cost of the BCM and programming that you paid? Just so I have an idea when I'm quoted an estimate. Thanks again. :)
  • mrwaynemrwayne Posts: 20
    Labor was $173.11. The BCM is $187.45. With tax and misc. materials, I paid $380.50 (this was three days ago). This included installation, and programming (and a car wash). You can order the part directly from gmpartsdirect.com for around $97 plus $21 shipping. (The price of the BCM keeps creeping up. Last year it was as low as $84.) If you buy the BCM yourself, then there's the issue of getting it programmed according to your VIN. (So that all of your options can be programmed in). This is an issue that I've never been given a definite answer on. Some will say everything works without programming, others, especially dealers, say it must be programmed. I'd say the safest thing to is go to the dealer and have it done right, and get whatever warranties go along with that, although I can understand many people want to get around spending that kind of money (especially if they don't really have it). Be aware that some dealers try to charge much more. Some people have paid $500-$900 for this same service. The prices I paid were exactly in line with what GM says it costs (including labor time), which is about $360
    plus whatever your state tax is, plus whatever small shop and/or material fee there is. :D
  • Earlier in the summer, I had a similar no-start problem as many folks on here have/had. Pulling and replacing the BCM fuse did the trick to start the car, but now I'm plagued with a few odd problems:
    First, my turn signals had previously malfunctioned from time to time, but could be "fixed" by activating the hazards. Now when they malfunction, it's pretty bad and there's usually nothing that can be done.
    Second, when the car reads that it is dark outside (and the dash lights activate in a different mode), the dashlights are very very faint. At night, I cannot read my speedometer, tachometer or fuel gauge. This is ONLY at dark, though. The radio and other instrument panel related lights are also very faint.
    Finally, I'm encountering some difficulties with my power windows, but only on the driver's side. I can no longer press the button all the way down to roll my window up, but rather must keep it in a certain "sweet spot", which means being held about 3/4 of the way down.
    I'm trying to sell this car soon, and these little inconveniences are not going to help the matter.
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Little Rock, ARPosts: 872
    I can't address the turn signal problem, but have some thoughts on the other two.

    The power window switch is a fairly common problem...same thing happened to me about three years ago on my 2000 Impala. I managed with the "sweet spot" approach for probably six months or so, and then finally one day the switch quit entirely (or course, with the window down). The problem is in the switch, and is easily replaced...but as I recall the part is @ $90.

    On the dash lights, you don't mention trying to adjust the intensity of the dash lights by turning the light switch on the dash - I'm sure you have, but if not it's possible it could be turned down, which would only impact things at night.
  • I had the same thing happen to my 2001. I took it to dealership the first time , and was told it was the BCM, had it replaced. (375.00) Car stalled again before I got out of the parking lot!:sick: Took it to a local mechanic, and he diagnosed it without even looking at it! Turned out to be Crankshaft Position Sensor. It's been almost a year and still doing fine. The cost ended up being 80.00 including labor.
  • bxdbxd Posts: 186
    Any place that tells you a stalling engine is because of a Body Control Module is not a place to go back to. Glad you got your car fixed right!
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