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Chevrolet Impala Lighting/Electrical Problems

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Comments

  • rwmjwrwmjw Posts: 2
    I too have a 2000 Impala, 113,000 miles with similar problems. Its been going on for the past 4 months. I can be driving at 10 mph or 60 mph (speed doesn't seem to make any difference) the engine shuts off like I turned off the key. I put the car in neutral and typically it starts right back up and off I go. Was happening about once in approx 150 miles, as of late its happening more often. The problem is the shut down doesn't leave a diagnosis code. I have heard possibilities of a crankcase sensor, ignition switch, main computer, all expensive repairs especially if their not needed. Please let me know what you find out. I have been unsuccessful with my local chevrolet dealer.
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Posts: 870
    Doesn't sound like the fuel filter, but it's easy enough to replace (and relatively inexpensive). Sounds like more of an electrical/computer problem than fuel though...I'd think if it were fuel related it would sputter and die slowly versus just going out all at once.
  • tessmillertessmiller Posts: 10
    I spoke to a friend who works as a Chevi mechanic. I was told that it could be a fuel pump or a fuel filter that is causing the car to stall....just turns off, no battery light or security light but radio ect still works, just the gages go to zero like I turned it off....and that using 'cheap' gas could clog it up or if it is not put back on properly it can cause the car not to get the full firing.
    So, that's my first step. And I may take into a chevi dealer to see what they can do.
    I am moving in a couple of weeks and traveling over 1200 miles, so I really need this fixed!! :surprise:
  • tessmillertessmiller Posts: 10
    I should add that we replaced the ignition module on it, thinking that it could be that. My husband ran it around town driving it every where trying to recreate the stall and it ran fine....he then came home let it sit and then went to a friend's house...it sat again for a couple of hours. He went out to start it and it wouldn't turn over. I just don't understand it.
  • revjim64revjim64 Posts: 77
    Did you try replacing the "Passlock: sensor?
  • bxdbxd Posts: 186
    A high probably that it's the crankshaft position sensor. Shouldn't be terribly expensive, considering you've already thrown an ECM and an ignition module at the problem. Would be best to do some more troubleshooting. Next time it happens, if you're at home, can you check for spark with a tester?
  • bussmanbussman Posts: 4
    I have a short in my radio system . 1 had the radio replaced . This did not help. ran a hot wire to the radio from a another source. still did not help. Anybody have any other Ideas on what else to try. I have over 600. dollors in this all ready. I am ready to trade this car off. but I don't want to give this problem to anybody else.
  • cmimpalacmimpala Posts: 2
    A short can mean anything, describe in detail the issue.

    Or get an Ohm Meter and try the grounds and the power leads to figure out if it is grounding when it isn't supposed to. DO NOT forget the AMP in the rear trunk Deck it may be the culprit too? in a 2003 it should have been under warranty unless you went over the milage in the first incident.

    If all grounds are fine, then the power feeds should be checked. You can get a generic schema from any local dealership or audio shop.

    Let me know.
  • bussmanbussman Posts: 4
    I tested the short with the Ohm meter. there is about {1.6} amp going out the radio system. I unhooked the radio amp in the trunk. It cut the short to about {1.3}. I unhooked the radio receiver in the trunk. that cut it down to {1.2} amp. I cut out all the wires to the back of the radio one at a time . I found a{.2} amp in the power antenna. Now the radio has been replaced. It did not change a thing. Right now I put a switch in the hot wire to shut the juice off when we shut the car off. If you would have any other Ideas I would try about anything right now. thanks Dan
  • mrwaynemrwayne Posts: 20
    If all connections are fine, I'd say it could be a BCM internal short, or a partial short at one of its connections internally. A scan tool "might" be able to detect a communication problem, but this is just a guess.
  • My 2001 Impala LS Has 150,000 miles and running strong.
    The problem I'm having is that the battery will be dead after the car sets for two days. The battery has been replaced every 3 months for the last 9. No, shorts have been found. And on top of that my Fuel gauge only works when its in Park! I hope someone has Idea of whats happening!Thanks
  • mrwaynemrwayne Posts: 20
    If it is indeed the battery, perhaps it's an alternator, or a battery cable problem. Sounds like the gauge cluster is faulty, or the level sensor is dirty.
  • Hi everyone, I have a question about the security and a/c systems not working like they should on my moms 01 impala. I have never seen anything like this before, but then again I have always worked on hondas. The trouble is that sometimes everything works like it should, but then all at once the air will stop being cold; the message center will start to flash the battery then security indicators the radio will then read locked and will not work at all at this point. sometimes you can stop the car turn off the switch wait a few moments and try it again and everything will be just fine. then on the other hand most of the time when I try this the lights and everything on the dash remain on even after I have opened the door. If anyone has any helpful tips or tricks for this problem they would be a great help!! Thanks Alot you guys/gurls
  • The car always thinks the key is in the ignition. 1) Remote start won't work 2) Doors won't perform their automatic unlock when key is removed 3) With ket out of ignition (in hand) I open the door and the bell reminds me that I left the key in the ignition. On the phone the dealer is stumped. Thoughts?
  • mrwaynemrwayne Posts: 20
    Sounds like you need a new body control module.
  • mrwaynemrwayne Posts: 20
    I'd say there some kind of fault in either the ignition switch, or the body control module. Since the car is so new, I'd have the dealer scan and test the BCM functions. I once cured a content theft alarm problem in my 2001 3.8 by connecting the positive and negative battery cables together with alligator clips,(do not do this with the battery connected)but I don't recommend this trick with a vehicle under warranty unless absolutely necessary.
  • revjim64revjim64 Posts: 77
    I agree with the previous post. It is likely the BCM (Body Control Module.)is defective.

    I had the problem with the "SECURTIY" light flashing and the dash lights flickering and after having the BCM replaced the symptoms were gone.

    The dealer charged $360 to replace it. I was able to get GM to reimburse me for half the cost.

    I really think Chevy should recall all these BCMs!
  • My 2003 Impala had the exact problem you have described. I took it to the dealer and for $415.00 they replaced the body control module. Which only a dealer can do because they said it had to be reprogrammed from GM.
  • kjoshnkjoshn Posts: 4
    I was having the same battery drain on my 2002 impala with 92,000 miles on it. The only thing that was malfuntioning was that my digital radio clock would lose about 15 minutes overnight. As long as I drove the car every day everything was ok, but when I let it set for 2 or 3 days the battery crapped out. After 3 batteries and many hours pulling fuses and doing a current draw test on each circuit I found that the clst/bcm fuse was fluctuating between 500 and 36 miliamps. I was told that the draw on an idle vehicle should be no more than 45 miliamps. As a test I reset the clock, removed the fuse, recorded battery voltage (12.5 volts), and left the car set for 24 hrs. The next day the battery voltage was still 12.5 volts. I replaced the fuse, started the car and to my surprise the clock didn't lose any time. I think the BCM is telling something to work when it shouldn't be working but I'm not going to shell out $300 until I'm sure it's the problem. BE ADVISED THAT THE CAR WONT START WITH THAT FUSE REMOVED, but I'm pulling mine whenever I'm not using the car until I get the problem solved. P.S. The clst/bcm fuse is 10 amps located in the driver side fuse panel. Hope this helps.
  • bxdbxd Posts: 186
    BCM is the body control module. Helps monitor stuff like door position, chimes, etc. It is normal for it to draw perhaps 1/2 amp right after car is turned off, because some modules don't power down immediately. But after about 15 minutes it should be down to say 40 mA. To test this accurately, you need to close all doors, yank the fuse, and without opening anything measure the current. Maybe you already knew that. :shades:
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