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Toyota Camry Basic Maintenance Questions

andeeandee Posts: 2
Has anyone changed their Solara. over to synthetic oil? I am thinking of doing this and was interested in what others might think of this.
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Comments

  • dietmarsdietmars Posts: 2
    When I purchased my 2002 Camry XLE-4 the sales person suggested that I change the engine oil every 3000 miles. The manual says to change it every 5000 miles under normal driving conditions. Should I follow the maintenance cycle of the manual that was printed for the car or does anyone know of a good reason why the oil should be changed more frequently. I hope it was not just an overkill suggestion by the sales person because of Toyota's oil sludge problem on some of its engines. The engine in my Camry is the 2.4-liter DOHC, 16-valve VVT-i 4-cylinder type.
  • Does anyone have any information regarding the factory oil filter vs aftermarket filters? They look a little different and I was hoping to get some feedback for my 2002 camry. thanks.
  • Tried to replace plugs, on front of engine. One went ok , two went sour. Removed the ignition coil and the boot remained on the plug. Can't pull boot out. Talked to Toyota parts man,who asked the service tech. The service tech claims that the whole ignition coil needs replacement at a cost of $95.00 apiece. Thinks I'll look around junkyards to find some.
  • Hi,

    Does any one if camry requires special maintenance at 30k miles?. The manual says to replace the coolant in addition to regular oil and filter change. When I called the toyota dealership the service person recommended replacing coolant + transamission fuild + fuel canister + pcv value and whole lot of other things for $375 package. Is it really necessary or should I only go for oil, filter and collant replacement. I live in Michigan and do not tow anything.

    Thanks for your help
  • nw1997nw1997 Posts: 227
    chandra1975,

         Yes, at 30K you should do the following:
    1) Oil and Filter Change
    2) Transmission Oil Change
    3) PCV Valve
    4) Adjust all Belts
    5) All remaining filters
    6) If not Platinum Spark Plugs, change them (their Cheap).
    7) Coolant
    8) Check, maybe change tires
    9) Inspect suspension, Trans axles

         I would have to contact my personal mechanic for further details as to what else is normally changed at 30K.
  • I own an 04 SE 4 cylinder Camry. I'm about to change the oil for the first time. Can someone tell me where the oil filter is. Also is it difficult to change the oil on the new Camrys. Your help is appreciated.thanks.
  • I have a 2000 Solara V6 SLE.

    I am looking to change the fuel filter myself. I know where the filter is...but it looks quite impossible to get to it and change it.

    Has anyone changed the fuel filter themselves, and how did you go about doing it?

    Btw, for those looking to change your own oil, I HIGHLY recommend buying one of those valves to replace the nut on the oil drain. Makes changing the oil much faster, and less messy. There are several on the market, but I am using the SureDrain (I think that's what it's called - sold at Walmart). Has been working fine for 2-3 years now.
  • paul_ppaul_p Posts: 271
    Here's a link to an Internet oil filter study:

    http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
  • camryman5camryman5 Posts: 10
    I own a '02 4cyl Camry with 29k miles. I recently had to replace the engine. So, the engine is new, but the rest of the car has nearly 30k miles on it. Do I follow the maintenance schedule based on the odometer or the engine? If I do it based on the engine will I be neglecting other important items? Thanks.
  • bellabella Posts: 4
    Just wanted to revive a topic that was started before but I didn't see answered ... any consensus around whether the dealer recommended 3000 mi. or manufacturer recommended 5000 mi. service was preferred or ... practical? TIA
  • The fuel filter is connected to the stainless-steel fuel lines by 2 hex nuts. The threads on the S S fuel line are sometimes damaged during assembly. The hex nuts therefore cannot be easily open! One would have to exert a lot of torque on the hex nuts to overcome the bad threads' resistance.

    The shops have a special box wrench designed to prevent damages to the hex nuts as it is torqued.

    If you damage the fuel line, you cannot drive the car to the shop. It must be towed in, which may cost a few hundred dollars. If you fail to assemble the 2 hex nuts properly to the fuel line, you risk having fuel leaks in the engine compartment, which can be very dangerous.

    I took my '93 Camry with a factory fuel filter to a trusty mechanic and had it replaced for $20. Better yet, have it replace at a reputable dealer.

    Fuel leaks can be deadly and are not something anyone should take any chances!
  • jono4jono4 Posts: 8
    3,000 miles. i drive 35,000 mi/yr; long, country miles which are easy on a motor. still change ea. 3,000.
    had a pontiac bonneville with 160,000 mi on it when the tranny died. changed oil ea. 3,000 mi.
    have a 1967 mercedes 250S sedan with a zillion miles on it. change oil on that a lot. old and tired, needs and deserves tlc.
    good luck
  • thought this would be an easy one for a dork like me, but guess not. so how do i change the plugs?
  • bd21bd21 Posts: 437
    Unless you have 100,000 miles or more on the car, they don't need to be changed. Read your manual.
  • New to Toyota, bought 1998 Camry for son. Runs great but malfunction indicator light just came on. I tightened gas cap and light still stayed on. Manual says to bring to dealer which I would like to avoid. Any ideas what to check? Also any good internet sites to buy OEM mats for a 1998?
  • i'm actually going by the manual (2001 camry le) which says to change them at 60,000. i'm at 65,000 right now. i thought they (the plugs) would be easily accesible. this is my first newer auto and all my others were simple to change. do i need to remove the the valve cover(?) to gain access to the plugs?
  • bd21bd21 Posts: 437
    Sorry about that, I thought they were using 100,000 mile plugs that year. No you don't need to pull the valve cover. Take a firm grip on the plug wire head (the part right next to the cover), not the wire and pull straight up firmly. You will need the correct size plug socket(deep well) and at least a 6 inch extension (12 inch would be better)along with a ratchet. It is a very close fit, so you won't be able to get in there with an extra thick cheap type. Don't over tighten them when you put in the new ones. Good luck.
  • thanks bud. i appreciate the advice. you know i was checking out the plug wire heads next to the valve cover, and you're right it is a very tight fit. i pulled on them before i came to this site for advice, but they seemed like they didn't want to budge and i was afraid of breaking something. i'll come back and let ya know how i fared. thanks again!
  • typesixtypesix Posts: 314
    I try to listen to the mechanics with radio shows on the weekends. All recommend that cars with 100K mile plugs should have the plugs loosened up at every 30-40k miles and retightened or else there is a very good possibility that the plugs will stay there for life. They have encountered enough owners that have come in for the 100K change and found the plugs impossible to remove or have customers come in with broken plugs, having tried to remove them at 100K by themselves.
  • alan_salan_s Posts: 356
    I had a 1998 Camry and it had exactly the same problem. It is caused by oxidation in the light bulb socket assembly. Not enough to prevent the bulb from working, but enough to fool the electronics into thinking that the bulb is out. Assuming that all the bulbs are OK, then remove the front left indicator assembly. Consult your owner manual which describes this procedure under light-bulb changes. The left was always my problem. I don't remember exactly, but you may have to remove the headlamp asembly first to remove the indicator assembly. They are very easy to remove, secured only by a couple of bolts and they clip together. Remove the indicator bulb and clean the terminals with a light sandpaper and make sure that the bulb socket is connecting securely in the housing. Reconnect, reassemble and your problem should go away for 6 - 8 months, but it will be back!
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