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Toyota Camry Basic Maintenance Questions



  • wolfborowolfboro Posts: 6
    Thanks for your responses . It appears that you do not have the same problem I have. I guess ,before I change anything ,I need to verify couple of more things . At my next oil change , I will make a note of the dipstick level prior to draining and measure the drained oil carefully . One more thing I can do ,that is, to jack the car down completely flat to see if any more oil draining out . After these and charging 4.5 qts. of new oil (with new oil filter) ,I will recheck to see if the dipstick is still showing above the max mark(currently approx. 1").

    Your suggestions are always welcome.
  • ja5573ja5573 Posts: 14
    Hi, I own 05 Camry with 30K. Since about a week ago, the car starts to make strange squeaking sounds like those made by old furnitures when I apply and release the brake. Initially, I thought my brake pads worn out which is ok since I was going to replace it soon.

    What worries me is now, not only I think sounds comes when I hit the accelerator, somehow, some sounds seems to come from my door as well(I think it is upper part of my window).

    I have no idea how these sounds are generated and they don't seem to be metalic sounds. What should I do and is this something I can get checked out by dealership under warranty? My car is still under warranty.

    Many thanks in advance.

  • djlu99djlu99 Posts: 4
    Camry '05 LE - I just returned from the 50k inspection at the dealer. They say that the Accessory Drive Belt tensioner is leaking and recommend replacing it for $400...would appreciate any comments as to what is this accessory drive belt tensioner and is this something we normally would expect to replace at 50000 miles?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666

    I just sent you an email with a picture of tensioner. You have an email account w/carspace, just go up to the top where it says "Mailbox".
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    Your post makes it hard to determine what is causing the noise. Because the car is still under warranty, by all means take it to the dealer. I'd recommend driving it with the service technician in the car with you so you can point out the noise directly to him or her.
  • rubbermanrubberman Posts: 14
    After much effort, I replaced the front struts in my '01 Camry. I started on the back ones and discovered that the top mounting nuts aren't easily accessible like the front. The instructions inside the Monroe struts say you have to remeove the rear seat and "tray". I'm assuming the tray is the rear deck. I'm very apprehensive about interior dismantling because the fasteners aren't visible. Does anyone have any information on replacement of the rear struts and the difficulty involved? Thanks.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    The Toyota manual says to remove the rear side seatback. Picture shows the strut bolts accessible.

    Appears easy from the remove the rear side seatback....appears to be one bolt for each side seatback.
  • hebleheble Posts: 1
    I need to know how to turn off my "Maint Reqd" light on my '05 Toyota Camry.
    I get this light eveytime I need an oil change.
    The last time I didn't take it to the dealer but to a local mechanic.
    The dealer had said he turns it off after the oil change.
    My mechanic didn't know how to do it.


  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    There is a procedure written up in the owners manual in the glove compartment. For the 07 it deals with holding in the trip A odometer reset for a period of time while you turn on the ignition key to different positions. I suspect it is similar for the 05, but it's written up in the manual that you can dog ear the page so it's easily accessible whenever oil changes are done.
  • rubbermanrubberman Posts: 14
    Thanks for the info. I looked and there appears to be a bolt at the bottom of the cushion that is accessed from the inside. It's pretty well hidden between the seat and seatback cushion.
  • djlu99djlu99 Posts: 4
    Thanks - is it common that it would leak (at a cost of $400)?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I have no idea, I've never replaced it on a Camry. I've replaced a number of tensioners on my other vehicles over the years, all of the others were spring loaded.

    I think what I'd suggest is to call an auto parts store (Pep Boys, AutoZone, etc) and find out how much the part itself cost. I'd intuitively think the part would be in the 50 dollar ballpark, but that's only a guess on my part. You could also call the Toyota parts desk and find out the cost there as well.

    I'm fairly handy so wouldn't think twice about tackling this myself. If you do it yourself, I'd replace the belt while I was at it.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,667
    Completed the first oil change on the '07 CE Camry - piece of cake! The oil filter was on pretty tight, but nothing too bad. I used my oil filter cap wrench, 6 inch extension, and socket wrench.

    I love the ease of maintenance on Toyotas - yet another example of their superior designs compared to the other makes.

    I also used my newly-built ramps, making the job really easy.

    Any questions, let me know.
  • djm2djm2 Posts: 705
    Hi all:
    I just made a service appointment at the selling dealer for an oil and filter change to be done on June 25th at 8:00 am! At the present time my Camry has 8,200 miles, and at the time of the oil & filter service it will have between 9,200 and 10,000 miles, depending on my driving habits! The vehicle will be 6 months old at that point in time, and it will have had four,(4), oil & filter changes. YES, I believe in having clean oil in my engine at all times, because I depend on my vehicle every day to earn my living.

    The vehicle is running VERY STRONG, and I DO NOT HAVE any of the problems listed on this site, but I do believe that these problems do exist, and I do believe that the transmission issue, (Flare / Slippage), is related to the operation of the torque converter and the software that controls that unit. If the "slippage" was in the transmission itself, the clutches and / or bands that hold the units would be burned very quickly. (The vehicle would not move forward!) This issue is related to the "drive-by-wire / torque converter operation / software interface process" at various road speed and traffic conditions. My driving does not allow me to use "cruise control," so I drive my vehicle by using the accelerator. This in itself could eliminate the symptoms of the "flare"! I also use the "manual shift feature" of the unit in city traffic for better control and "engine braking"! This also could eliminate the symptoms. (I am making the shift decisions not the computer!)

    Motor oil does more than just lubricate an engine. It also forms a film on bearing surfaces that separates moving parts so that they do not touch each other, and this reduces friction and wear. (Less friction = better fuel mileage). The oil film also acts like a shock absorber to cushion reciprocating and rotating parts. Oil also serves as a coolant for critical engine parts such as the crankshaft bearings, and the valve-train components. Oil also helps to prevent rust and corrosion inside the engine, and helps keep surfaces clean by dissolving and carrying away dirt and varnish deposits.
    Dirty oil simple wears out an engine very quickly! Oil is often referred to as the "lifeblood" of an automobile engine. If oil is the engine's lifeblood, than the oil filter is the "liver of the engine." Like the "liver" in the human body, the oil filter takes in dirty oil and removes the particulates and crud. Changing the oil and filter on a regular basis gives the engine a fresh transfusion for a longer / efficient life!
    Choosing a "quality oil and filter" is just as important as frequent oil and filter changes. Fact, ---- all oil filters are NOT created equal. A poor quality aftermarket oil filter may temporarily save you a dollar or two, but down the road, it can cost you thousands of dollars in engine damage if the unit fails. If the aftermarket unit fails, you can kiss your warranty good-by!!!!!!!!!!! A poorly constructed internal by-pass valve inside a cheap aftermarket filter can open unnecessarily, and cause the oil to simply go around the filter. You now have no filter in the lubricating system, and you have dirty oil circulating in the system! This is engine failure looking for a place to happen!
    I always use a high grade / name brand motor oil and filter. I make it a point to return to the dealer to have this service performed. Now all of my service records are in one place for future reference. Should an oil filter fail and destroy the engine, it is their filter and their tech that performed the service. My warranty and extended warranty are "ok"! It now becomes the dealer's problem together with the manufacturer, (in this case Toyota), to make things right! Should I have an issue "on-the-road," the servicing dealer at that location can get my service records from the selling dealer. Life becomes stupid / simple! ------ Best regards. -------- Dwayne :shades: ;) :)
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,667
    I agree with you. I only use Toyota filters and Castrol GTX 5-20, changed every 3 months or 3,000 miles.
  • dchen2003dchen2003 Posts: 34
    Need Your Advice

    I face the same situation, my car is a 03 camry(4 cylinder) with 30K. Is it time to change the coolant? I read some messages which said the pink coolant in Toyota last more than 4yr and 30K, is that true? If I change the coolant at Walmart is it okay to mix the normal coolant with the pink coolant? About the transamission fluid, do we have to change under normal driving condition? I look at the manual it says change it only under special operation conditions, does that mean we will never have to change it? Does change coolant equals to flush the radiator? I don't mind to spend some money to get piece of mind, but I am also don't want to spend the money that is not necessary.

    Thank You Very Much
  • dchen2003dchen2003 Posts: 34

    After reading your message I also want to change the coolant by myself. I have a 03 camry(4 cylinder), I try to locate the drain plug. Is it on the inner bottom side of the radiator with a white plastic tip? It seems I can turn it just by fingers. I think I don't need to remove the cover underneath the engine because there is a small cutout allow the coolant to drain. I just want to make sure I won't unplug the wrong valve. Is there anywhere can find a picture of the drain plug so I can compare with the one I saw. Is it the only place to purchase the pink coolant from a toyota dealer?

    Thank you very much for your help
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    check your carspace mailbox, I sent you instructions.

    You access thru the 'mailbox' button, upper right corner of screen.
  • edmund2460edmund2460 Posts: 293
    My original Mich. MXV4's on my V6 (2003)are coming to the end of their life at 48,500. I am thinking of either Exalto Touring or the new MXV4's S8. The tire people at Costco said some of their customers complained of noise with the Exalto's. I would like a quiet tire with decent performance. Any advice?
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    You might consider putting instructions like this in a guide. That way the procedure would be available to everyone without you having to email it to people individually. People would be able to find it using various search engines as well. :)
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