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Toyota Camry Basic Maintenance Questions

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Comments

  • grampy1grampy1 Posts: 140
    Anyone have any luck with Toyota doing a good Will repair?

    I have a 2001 Camry with 101000 mi that just had its Cat.Converter replaced by a independent dealer. Is it worth pursuing some relief from Toyota?
    I believe under the emissions warranty the cat. is warranted for 10 yrs.
    and/or 100000mi. Correct?

    Thanks
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    slim to none, if they didn't put in a Toyota Cat, and it wasn't a Toyota dealer who diagnosed the need and did the labor.
  • cellotrackcellotrack Posts: 2
    Hi, I have a pearl white 1999 Toyota Solara SLEV6 with 110,000 miles. Recently, while I was parked at the mall parking lot, I realized someone rear-ended my rear bumper while I was out shopping and not the car. I have full insurance coverage but a $500 deductible. There is just some paint that is chipping off and cracking. The bumper is not dented in or damaged otherwise. I was thinking I should report to the insurance carrier as a hit and run but also thought about taking it to MAACO to get it repainted for about $300 since my deductible alone is $500. I am worried the paint will continue to chip off or the bumper might rust. Any suggestions or recommendations?
  • gooddeal2gooddeal2 Posts: 749
    It's a 10 years old car, so, cracking paint can be normal. I just don't think it's the result of someone rear-ended your car. The bumper is plastic, thus no rust. Also, re-paint the bumper alone on a 10 years old car might look funny.

    I wouldn't bother w/ the insurance co. for such a small claim. IMO, you shouldn't have full coverage on a 10 years old Camry w/ 110K miles.
  • pascookepascooke Posts: 1
    I have a 2006 Camry LE 4 cyl with 54K and the brake pedal is going to the floor. Is it possible that the master cylinder needs to be replaced already? Your advice is appreciated. pascooke@gmail.com
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Did you try bleeding the hydraulic system to get air out of the brake lines?
  • Bumper cracked paint.

    Bumpers are plastic and require flex paint. I had a jopper tell me just to paint mine without the flex. Not me, my new paint job is gonna be done right.

    I would not take it to Macco for the reason they might not put the flex in the paint. Seriously if you get it painted there, they save cost by speed and material. It would look great until someone bumps the back bumper when parking in a crowded parking lot.

    I'm painting my 92 bumper with original white. Cost for paint and the thinner mix is about$75 dollars then throw in the flex additive for another $30 of which you use about .50 cents worth. The rest sits on the shelf and eventually goes bad from age. But still worth the extra protection.

    Also you have a flex primer Macco would probaly use the same primer they use for all the other bodywork repair, not the flex.

    As an experiment I would go to Macco and get a estimate. Then ask what they mean by flex primer and flex paint additive, if they even bring it up. Ask to show you some in a can. It must say for bumpers, not the additive used to make a paint poly-urethane Their is a difference.

    Then call a bumper repair specialist that comes to your door to fix your bumper for about $400 dollars no dents, just paint.
  • Lose fluid

    It could be leaking out slowly. Is the fluid full or empty? Then if full, the master cylinder failed. Of course someone could have filled it for you when getting service.
  • djm2djm2 Posts: 705
    Hi daises2daises:

    Kindly be advised that the Power Steering Pump producess VERY high pressure, (between 800 to 2000 pounds.) --- This causes VERY HIGH HEAT! --- The heat leads to fluid breakdown and fluid failure. --- The fluid should be "clear" not cloudy, and should NOT smell burnt and / or toasted.

    As miles accumulate on the vehicle, microscopic particles of metal & rubber can buildup in the fluid. These particles can act like an abrasive and acelerate pump and gear wear, so as such the fluid should be changed.

    Based on your "posting," your vehicle has 70,000 miles. I would have this service performed ASAP!

    Best regards. --------- Dwayne :shades: ;) :)
  • dlrevdlrev Posts: 11
    I just bought a used 07 Camry LE and the engine air filter needs to be replaced. Any advice on the best site(s) online to get a quality one for a good price?

    Also, is it important to get a "genuine Toyota" filter? Someone told me that the air filters you'll get at AutoZone, Pepboys, et al don't last as long, whereas a high quality one might cost $50+ but can last much longer. Is that true?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Just get a local filter at autoparts store. Shipping and handling charges alone will probably double the cost, compared to locally bought.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,666
    A genuine OEM Toyota filter is around $21.
  • dlrevdlrev Posts: 11
    where can I purchase a genuine OEM Toyota filter? I am a car novice so please don't think I'm being sarcastic.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    go to any Toyota dealer, walk over to the parts counter, tell them what you want, give them your credit card.
  • dlrevdlrev Posts: 11
    Anyone use a K&N air filter? I was looking at those but they are around $50. As I understand it you can wash and reuse them basically for the life of the car. Is it worthwhile?
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,647
    It's my opinion that a simple, washable drop-in filter, with no additions to the routing of the stock air intake system, is just a waste of money, and possibly detrimental to your car if over-oiled. Taken all by themselves, I've never seen a credible test that shows that you gain anything but noise from these types of filters.

    After all, cars still have throttle plates that open and close, so your intake air flow is restricted by your right foot anyway.

    Now if you want to add a system for COOLER air, or ram air, that might have an effect, depending on how your stock system comes from the factory.

    Modern cars leave very little on the table in terms of air filter design.
  • dlrevdlrev Posts: 11
    A bit confused by your reply. So you're saying you feel the K&N air filter is NOT worth it, right?
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,647
    Not in and by itself, no. It's not worth the money or the trouble. In conjunction with intake, fuel injection and exhaust modifications, it may be of some help.
  • motorcity6motorcity6 Posts: 427
    Not my car, but I do take it to the dealer for oil changes the last couple of years. Car runs good and has accumulated only 14,500 in the last 37 mos..Total mileage is 77,150, and I am not a fan of Toys..

    How ever recently it has developed a wheel shake when braking, which usually is due to warped rotors, but I noticed the other day at 30 mph I got a steering wheel shake w/o any braking over smooth road.. Car is covered by a certified maintainence policy expiring 7/31/09..So my take is tie rod ends, pitman arm, or idler arm..

    Of course they will do every thing under the sun to sell a whole shopping list of goodies and services which the Toy dealers are famous for..The rotors may be warped but at a steady slow speed to find movement in the steering wheel points at steering component issues..

    Any like experiences from owners I would appreciate your feedback..Never owned any foreign cars except 2 Porsches, and 41 Big3 cars..I find out looking this thread that Toys require alot of maintance operations, sounds like a waste of time and money. Over 100k miles one should do brakes, tires, and maybe an alignment. Lots of oil changes however this fluid changing of all fluid systems is a total waste., but then again they may not be built that good we are told..My normal annual mileage for some 40 yrs was around 50k, and if the car required the Toy schedule it was never bought..If it was not broken, why bother to spent money to keep the dealer in riches..My only service areas were suspension, brakes and tires, tire balance..

    The std Toy strut is shot before 50k, except the SE models..
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Or may have a bad strut/shock.
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