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Toyota Camry Brakes



  • lmacmillmacmil Posts: 1,756
    Another thing that will quickly warp rotors are over-torqued or unevenly torqued lug nuts. Toyota lug nut torque is typically only about 78 ft-lbs, way lower than the typical American car which is 100 ft-lbs. If you had the brake job done at a shop that doesn't do a lot of Toyotas, they may have over-torqued the lug nuts.
  • When i brake it starts squeaking. so i went to my regular mechanic who recommended me getting my pads changed in front. then i went to the toyota service guy who told me i didnt need to get my pads changed. a simple cleaning and adjusting of my brakes next time i serviced my car should be good, and he said the pads can last until around 90,000 miles if your not a hard braker, (i am not a hard braker). Anyone suggestions on what i should do?
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    Well, the brakes are self-adjusting front and rear, so there's no need to adjust the brakes manually unless something is amiss. If the pads are worn sufficiently, they should be replaced. And, there's really nothing to clean either.

    Also, the Toyota Camry's front brakes have the device that makes the brakes squeak very loudly when the pads are worn to the point of needing replacement.

    Do yours squeak loudly or not?

    There is no hard and fast rule on the number of miles you can get on a pair of brake pads. On my former '97 Camry, the front brake pads didn't require replacement until 109K miles, but my wife and I are conservative drivers.
  • They squeak only when i brake very hard rarly. the main occasions this happen is when i drive in a photo camera intersection and the light turns yellow, i dont want to take any chances :)
  • typesixtypesix Posts: 314
    Rear brakes are self adjusting only if they are disc brakes. Rear drum brakes are adjusted on many Toyotas by regularly using parking brake.
  • haefrhaefr Posts: 600
    I don't believe your explanation is correct. Drum brake self-adjusters operate whenever stopping a vehicle that's backing up.
  • typesixtypesix Posts: 314
    Not every vehicle uses that method of adjusting rear drums. As stated some Toyotas use the parking brake to adjust rear brakes. My 1989 Camry uses that method as stated in service manual.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    Then it doesn't sound like the front pads are worn enough to activate the screeching mechanism (really just a strip of metal that contacts the brake rotor).

    But I still think you ought to get someone to tell you how much thickness you have remaining on at least your front pads (I think 1 mm is the minimum thickness).

    Regarding self-adjusting rear drum brakes, I would assume (but am not certain) they'd adjust in the manner haefr mentions (stopping while backing up). A lot of people never use the parking brake, so it seems a company would open itself up to liability suits for not providing the reversing-type self-adjusting method.
  • typesixtypesix Posts: 314
    Go ask a mechanic. He'll tell you there's more than one way to adjust rear drum brakes. A lot of people never use the parking brake and that's why there are stories of people getting run over by their own car. The park mechanism was never meant to be used as the primary holding device, it was meant to be used as backup to parking brake.
  • haefrhaefr Posts: 600
    "Not every vehicle uses that method of adjusting rear drums. As stated some Toyotas use the parking brake to adjust rear brakes. My 1989 Camry uses that method as stated in service manual."

    I'll accept your interpretation of the 1990 Toyota Camry shop manual as gospel, but I would offer an additional point that is pertinent to at least some makes. My '03 Sonata has disc rear brakes, but a "top hat" style parking brake drum cast integrally with the rear rotors. When I yank the parking brake on before shifting to "Park", two shoes per rear wheel internally engage the described drum. It adjusts automatically with each application of the parking brake. As such it also doubles as somewhat of an emergency brake system in the event of total service brake failure since it's divorced from the hydraulic system - strictly mechanically activated through cabling from the parking brake lever. While those brake shoes automatically adjust as described, the cable will stretch over time slightly. The slack can be readjusted at the parking brake lever once the floor console is removed. I agree with 210delray's response #603 that too many drivers are oblivious to the presence of a parking brake handle or pedal. If any automaker depends on fastidious application of the parking brake by owners to maintain conventional rear drum-only braking adjustment, then their decision borders on felonious shortsightedness and reckless endangerment as far as I'm concerned. (not to mention the millions that could be assessed in civil class-action product liability litigation) It was drummed into me in high school drivers' ed. (1961) not to EVER depend entirely on engaging the "Park" pawl in automatic transmissions if for no other reason than to save a very expensive transmission tear-down to replace a broken parking pawl in the event your parked car is rear-ended by some moron. Unfortunately for all of us, FWD cars apply parking pawl lock to the front wheels. If our cars get creamed while parked, we may very well be on the hook for very expensive trannie work in addition to whatever body and frame damage.
  • typesixtypesix Posts: 314
    I also had a 1981 Dodge Omni that had no driver or auto rear drum brake slack adjusters. The rear brakes had to be manually adjusted thru the access ports in the drums.
  • haefrhaefr Posts: 600
    Interesting. My very first new car after I graduated from optometry school (1970 Plymouth Satellite) had front discs and rear drums. The rear drums did have auto-adjusters on the rear drums that were activated with each reverse braking application. The owner's manual suggested for people who didn't routinely use reverse gear that it might be necessary to periodically have the rear shoes manually adjusted to maintain front-rear braking balance effecacy. The shop manual described how a star wheel (normally automatically ratcheted a cog at a time as needed with reverse braking), and that was accessible through an access hole in the stationary brake mounting plate covered by a plug to prevent moisture intrusion, could be manually ratcheted with a small hooked tool or bent screwdriver to take up uncompensated slack. What you described parallels very closely to what my Plymouth had.
  • I have a 1994 Camry that needs to have its struts and rear brakes replaced. It also needs new tires. The car only has 125K miles on it, so it is well worth putting the money into the maintenance, however since I am unable to afford having all of the work done at once, I need some advice as to the order in which the work should be done. I'm told the rear brakes have 25% left, but the struts are shot. One mechanic told me to do the brakes first and that they would cost $900. Another told me to do the struts first at $1200, then the tires ($400), finally the brakes ($100 - he wanted to turn the brakes, not replace the drums).

    I'm confused and cam't seem to find someone who can really explain what needs to be done.

  • Always think safety first. brakes, tires and then struts :) turning them now is cheaper then replacment
  • I have a 94 camry I just bought that needs all of the mentioned repairs too. What I can advise you is DO NOT let the dealer do any of this work! You will be charged more than DOUBLE what the job would cost anywhere else. Toyota wanted 300.00 to do a front brake job on my car. I got it done for 150.00 at another shop. I think maybe the mechanics are getting commission at Toyota. If so, they will always tell you you need things you do not need.
  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 396
    One of the members said not to take your vehicle to Toyota dealer for these repairs. he is so right. Once your warranty runs out, for brake and strut replacement, check out Midas or Sears. It shocks me to see the dealer wants $900 for brake job, $1200 for struts, even the tires should not cost $400. You get no extra benefit by going to a Toyota Dealer. I have a 96 Camry XLE V-6. I did the front brakes myself. A PAIR of top quality Bendix rotors cost me $110, the bendix pads cost $45. I did the front brake job for $155.

    Anytime they replace struts, they must do wheel alignment. That is a necessary expense.

    Good luck
  • ejoysejoys Posts: 1
    Hello! Mine is a 2005 Camry LE with 20k ml. I drove to a local Firestone for an oil change. They said I better let them clean and adjust the brakes on the rear wheels. The actual description is: "Adjust & clean brakes - 2 wheels" and it'll cost $30.

    While driving, I don't feel any problem as for braking (I am not familiar with car mechanism, though.)

    My question is:
    1. Does this brakes problem commonly happen to recent camry models with around 20k mileage?
    2. I wonder if adjusting and cleaning brakes can be done under warranty. Then I'd go to a dealer for this matter.

    I'd appreciate your input :-)
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,363
    Sorry--complete waste of your time and money. There is no brake "problem" and they need neither cleaning nor adjusting at this mileage.

    READ YOUR MAINTENANCE MANUAL. Don't authorize service to be done in the absence of real symptoms, or a requirement spelled out in the manual. And no, brakes are considered wear items and are generally not covered under the warranty except under very specific conditions.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    They were most likely referring to the parking or e-brakes. These are implemented, usually, at the rear via the old style drum type braking on the inside of the disc brake rotor.

    And yes, they do need adjusting on occasion, ~50,000 miles or more, but knowing these aftermarket rip-off artists such as Firestone I very much doubt if you needed it, certainly not the cleaning "bit".

    Park your car facing uphill on a fairly steep incline and if normal application, no extra effort, on the e-brake holds the car in place there is no need for adjustment.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    On your LE, you will have rear drum brakes, so these will also serve double duty as the emergency/parking brakes (cable-actuated of course for the latter).

    You don't need any cleaning or adjustment at this low mileage without symptoms.

    However, Toyota recommends checking front brake pads and rear brake linings for wear every 15K miles. Practically speaking, however, the rear drums typically show minimal wear for many more than 20K miles, unless you're heavy and frequent on the brakes.
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