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Toyota Camry Brakes

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Comments

  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    That's part of the anti-lock braking system, so yes you should get it fixed.

    The sensors report back to the compouter how fast the rear wheels are turning (or not, as they begin to skid). The computer compares that to the front brakes, and adjusts the braking pressure so that you don't skid and stop in the shortest distance possible.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Unless you have an indication on the instrument panel of ABS problems it is unlikely the wheel sensors are faulty.
  • My '08 Camry is making a spring-like noise when pressing down on it. There's also a slight and irritating feedback when pressing it on. It can get especially annoying in heavy traffic. Has anyone experienced this?
  • The parking brake button is stuck "in" thus the brake handle goes up and down but does not engage. I sprayed in through the handle, to no avail. 'Thoughts?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    What year are you talking about?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,615
    He means the ratchet doesn't work.

    MODERATOR

  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Oh sorry, you mean the button in the hand brake lever between the seats.

    You're going to have to take it apart, and hope that it is a bind in the locking mechanism as opposed to broken. If broken, you may want to check prices at a junk yard and compare that to the dealer.
  • Hello gentlemen,

    I have a 2006 Camry LE, and I've been hearing a low squeaky noise from the brakes (it appears to be the front ones). This noise only occurs when I'm stopping on cold brakes--for instance, in the morning when I'm going to work. The noise ceases after the third or fourth time of breaking. After that no matter if I'm breaking at a red light, breaking from a high, or from a low speed, I do not hear anything.

    Could this be a sign that my breaks need cleaning or perhaps even need changing?

    Also I've noticed a low rattling noise when I'm stopped at a light. The noise goes away when I shift into neutral (with the brakes still applied). Could my rotors be warped?
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    How many miles are on your car?
  • caazcaaz Posts: 203
    Sometimes a lil morning dew......snow.... salt...... settling on them can cause that until you use the brake a couple of times. Then they warm up, dry off and are quiet. Ive also noticed that even more so when the car has been sitting a few days or more. And not just my camry....my bmw.and my other cars do it as well.

    Later
    Caaz
  • I have 46700 miles...
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,667
    Same here, all cars do it in the morning the first few times, or whenever they have sat for a while with some moisture on the discs.
  • debbeldebbel Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I have an 04 Camry XLE 4 Cyl. The upper rear brake light works, but the ones in the tail light area don't (both sides). The bulbs look ok, and the Stop fuse is ok as well. What is the next thing that I should check, and is this a common problem? Thanks for your help! Deb
  • I don't know about noise, but my 08 camry shutters when I press on the breaks. I'm bringing it in on tuesday. I'll have to listen for a noise. :confuse:
  • Problems is resolved. The dealer changed out the front break pads and rotors. the shutter is gone when I press on the breaks, also the shutter is gone when I'm traveling at high speeds( I forgot to mention in my original post ;) ). I still don't hear any noise, my camry is extremely quiet. :blush:
  • I have a 2004 Toyota Camry LE. Recently my dashboard display seemed to be a little dim when I turned on the lights. I went to Autozone and found I had a bad battery. I replaced the battery and when I turned on the lights, they still seemed to be dim. Could it be a bad fuze?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Unlikely. Fuses are good (short-zero resistance), or they are bad (blown- infinite resistance).

    What is dim, the dashboard display? or your headlights?

    If dashboard display, make sure the dimming rheostat is turned all the way up to full brightness.
  • suydamsuydam Posts: 932
    >One of the members said not to take your vehicle to Toyota dealer for these repairs. he is so right.>

    Not always. We kept taking my daughter's '99 Camry to an independent shop because the brakes felt mushy. They did a number of small fixes but always insisted the brakes were fine. Well, they were not fine. We finally did take it to a dealer and by that time it needed extensive brake work, but at the end of it, she now has fully functioning brakes. Sometimes the dealers have more experience with the cars they service all the time to know the source of the problem if it isn't obvious. Although I agree that an out of warranty car doesn't generally need to have basic services done at a dealer, there are those situations where it is better to spend the extra money.
  • The brake pedal is not firm enough. I just replaced the master cylinder, pads front and back are good. The proportioning valve's lever is broken but I pushed it up and the rear right wheel can actually be turned with bare hands upon braking. The rear left holds slightly better. What difference makes the proportioning valve? May this be a design issue? Assuming that the RR caliper is good, what may be the problem?
    Thanks
  • hw99hw99 Posts: 4
    Hi guys,

    I have a Camry 2005 LE with 45K. It seems the brakes are still working well since there is no noise or viberating when braking.

    So I am wondering if I need to have a comprehensive brake inpections, which is about $80 cost quoted from a local dealer. Or a regular visual inspection is enough at this monment.

    Thank you very much!
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    No "comprehensive" inspection is needed at this point. You have disk brakes all around, which can be readily checked with the wheels taken off. This can be done when you rotate your tires. If the car is inspected by a professional on a lift, have them visually check the brake lines as well, but I would expect no problems at this low a mileage unless you drive in an area that uses lots of road salt in the winter.

    If you do it yourself, don't stick your head in the wheelwells or under the car if the car is supported only by a jack -- use secure jackstands on a hard level surface.
  • hw99hw99 Posts: 4
    I really appreciate your info. Have a nice day!
  • Hello. I've got a 2003 Camry LE that needs front brakes (disc). I have previously done many brake jobs on non-ABS brakes (on other vehicles). Is there anything specific to the ABS system that should be steering me away from DIY?

    Thanks, Tom
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    It shouldn't make any difference.
  • Thanks for the info 210delray!
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    You're welcome and good luck!
  • I have some noise in the rear brakes of my 05 Camry. I want to take a look but cannot remove the rear wheel drum. I have lubricated and hammered quite a bit, but the drum will not come loose. There are two threaded holes in the drum. Should I put bolts through them to pull the drum off? Thanks.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    Yes, putting two threaded bolts of the correct size will work. Just be sure to work on both bolts alternately -- don't just work on one and then the other. You want to turn the bolts clockwise. You'll hear some creaking and popping sounds, but this is of no concern.
  • Do you know the size? I tried what appeared to be the right size bolt and it soon tightened. I couldn't tell if the thread was the wrong size or if I was making contact with the surface below the hole. Thanks.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    If it immediately tightened, that usually means the thread pitch is incorrect (assuming the bolt hole isn't all rusted). A bolt has a diameter, but it has also has been cut with a specific # threads per inch of bolt. Higher strength bolts would typically have more threads per inch.

    If you try to put a bolt in with the wrong threads per inch, the threads themselves start to immediately bind.

    I haven't been following your problem, but did you look to see if there was a small locking nut on one of the lugs? I've seen very flat thin flimsy lock nuts on one lug nut, just to keep the drum from coming off when you pull the wheel off.

    Also, on the inside of the backing plate flange, they usually have cut out holes where you can put in a brake tool (or flat screwdriver) and turn the starwheel adjusting screw manually, thereby moving the brake lining away from the drum. Many times the brake lining wiill be tight to the drum and grabbing the drum, keeping you from being able to take the drum off.

    Those above two ideas are when the drum is loose from the axle flange, but still won't come off. If the drum is stuck tight onto the axle flange close to the center line of the drum, then some penetrating oil where the drum edge meets the axle and a little tapping should get it off.
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