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Toyota Camry Brakes



  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    No "comprehensive" inspection is needed at this point. You have disk brakes all around, which can be readily checked with the wheels taken off. This can be done when you rotate your tires. If the car is inspected by a professional on a lift, have them visually check the brake lines as well, but I would expect no problems at this low a mileage unless you drive in an area that uses lots of road salt in the winter.

    If you do it yourself, don't stick your head in the wheelwells or under the car if the car is supported only by a jack -- use secure jackstands on a hard level surface.
  • hw99hw99 Posts: 4
    I really appreciate your info. Have a nice day!
  • Hello. I've got a 2003 Camry LE that needs front brakes (disc). I have previously done many brake jobs on non-ABS brakes (on other vehicles). Is there anything specific to the ABS system that should be steering me away from DIY?

    Thanks, Tom
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    It shouldn't make any difference.
  • Thanks for the info 210delray!
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    You're welcome and good luck!
  • I have some noise in the rear brakes of my 05 Camry. I want to take a look but cannot remove the rear wheel drum. I have lubricated and hammered quite a bit, but the drum will not come loose. There are two threaded holes in the drum. Should I put bolts through them to pull the drum off? Thanks.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    Yes, putting two threaded bolts of the correct size will work. Just be sure to work on both bolts alternately -- don't just work on one and then the other. You want to turn the bolts clockwise. You'll hear some creaking and popping sounds, but this is of no concern.
  • Do you know the size? I tried what appeared to be the right size bolt and it soon tightened. I couldn't tell if the thread was the wrong size or if I was making contact with the surface below the hole. Thanks.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    If it immediately tightened, that usually means the thread pitch is incorrect (assuming the bolt hole isn't all rusted). A bolt has a diameter, but it has also has been cut with a specific # threads per inch of bolt. Higher strength bolts would typically have more threads per inch.

    If you try to put a bolt in with the wrong threads per inch, the threads themselves start to immediately bind.

    I haven't been following your problem, but did you look to see if there was a small locking nut on one of the lugs? I've seen very flat thin flimsy lock nuts on one lug nut, just to keep the drum from coming off when you pull the wheel off.

    Also, on the inside of the backing plate flange, they usually have cut out holes where you can put in a brake tool (or flat screwdriver) and turn the starwheel adjusting screw manually, thereby moving the brake lining away from the drum. Many times the brake lining wiill be tight to the drum and grabbing the drum, keeping you from being able to take the drum off.

    Those above two ideas are when the drum is loose from the axle flange, but still won't come off. If the drum is stuck tight onto the axle flange close to the center line of the drum, then some penetrating oil where the drum edge meets the axle and a little tapping should get it off.
  • johnnyukjohnnyuk Posts: 2
    I have a 1995 CAMRY 4 cyl Auto with 98K miles I have owned it from new.
    Its has been a good purchase.
    Over maybe the last year I have been aware of the spongey brake syndrom.
    Today I checked the Rotors/discs and have found the are 27.94mm so they are
    not down to minimum thickness. Pads are fine and were replaced at 70K brake system have been bled and fluid is at correct level. There is no vibration.
    The car brakes in a straight line so I dont think I have a faulty caliper .
    However I have on rare occasions gone to brake and have found the pedal to be much harder in use and no obvious spongness. Then a few miles down the road I have my spongy pedal back again.
    All that seems left is the Master cylinder I think. Cost in uk for the replacement MC is GB£220 or fitted GB£300. I am able to do this work myself. The refurb kit is GB£100...Has any one fitted a kit or replaced the MS completly and got rid of the spongy pedal.. Maybe I am getting older and its concerning me more . I was not aware of this being as spongy in its early years. Any ideas other that it brakes so it must be Ok . There seems to have been quite a lot of mentions of this in the forum but I have not read anyone has got rid of it. Johnny UK
  • For those interested. The rear wheel spun freely; it was not hung up on the brake shoes. I had lubricated the axle flange a lot, but that did not help. I went to the dealership. For the holes in the drum the person I spoke with gave me an 8 X 1.25mm bolt with a hardness grade of 8.8, the fourth hardest grade out of six per my Haynes book. He advised using a hardened bolt, not one that you would buy at a big box store. Thanks to this individual at Burdick Toyota in Clay, NY. No problem removing the drum with the single bolt, but two would definitely be better. There was a bit of noise as it broke free around the axle flange, but nothing serious. And I found nothing in there that would make the scratching noise, which has since stopped on its own after having briefly gotten much worse. Perhaps something was caught and finally fell out. Also thanks to 210delray for your advice.
  • johnnyukjohnnyuk Posts: 2
    Hi There.

    Did you ever get rid of that spngy feeling on the brake pedal.
    See my letter.

    3 July 2009 # 155
    Not had any replies.

    Johnny UK
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    You are quite welcome; glad to hear everything worked out!
  • Dear typesix, Ive just been told my parking pawl is bent. I was offered
    4K = new transmission 2K= used transmission no gte
    just keep on using my ebrake. Ive got a camry 03 w/127K miles
    and would love to ditch, but finances are tough and all these malef
    mechanics are telling me 5% of the true inofrmation.

    Can u shed me any light? Im a 48 yr old married woman without
    a reacting husband and dont know who to trust or just
    finance a new corolla at $14K.

    Thank you for listening.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited February 2011
    What are the symptoms you are experiencing? Car when put into park, moves?

    How did this happen? Your car was parked and hit by another vehicle? Their insurance should cover your repair.

    Or you jammed it into park while the vehicle was moving, causing the problem yourself?
  • kiawah, does it really cost $4K to replace the parking pawl mechanism on this vehicle? Seems excessive to me.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Better yet, why is a parking pawl worth repairing, just ALWAYS use the e-brake...
  • In Kansas yes, in San wouldn't be so comfortable.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    edited February 2011
    Rarely go there, but. In downtown Seattle I always use park, the e-brake, and turn the front wheels into the curb. I imagine that would also work in SF.

    By-the-by...park is not reliable on a slippery inclined surface where the diff'l might allow the car to roll downhill with one wheel turning opposite.
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