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Toyota Camry Engine Related Questions

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Comments

  • chevesjchevesj Posts: 2
    scoti1,

    my Camry has 96,000 miles on it -- I drive alot for my job. It is not still under factory warranty, but I bought the extended warranty that my dealer strongly pushed. That warranty denied coverage, and Toyota is distancing themselves from the warranty, stating that it is an outside company and nothing to do with them.

    I do have some of my maintenance receipts, but not all. We use a local mechanic for some of our car work, and they are not computerized. I provided Toyota with the name, address and phone number of this mechanic's shop, so they could ensure legitimacy, but this didn't help. My understanding is that some Toyota owners were covered by the company and had their engines replaced, even many with no maintenance records. I believe it actually hurt my case to be honest and provide all of the records that I did have.

    I should have been more viligant about the records, but it never occurred to me that Toyota would have a faulty product, or that they wouldn't stand by the product if something went wrong.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    At this stage of your car's life (post warranty), your beef is with the third-party underwriter of your extended service contract. (Only the automaker can issue an extended warranty. What you have is, in reality, an insurance policy and is not subject to federal warranty rights under the Moss-Magnuson Act. Without receipts for designated time/mileage maintenance, the carrier is effectively telling you, "Too bad - you lose, we win." Next time you purchase a new vehicle, and if you want an extended warranty, make certain that snazzy looking certificate is issued by the automaker and not some fly-by-night paper pusher. Why would your dealer sell a non-factory extended warranty? Simple - half of whatever you paid for what amounts now to bird-cage lining, went directly toward your dealer's bottom line. He would rather sell you one of those policies than the real Toyota deal. Those policies often have more "gotchas" than trick-or-treaters on Halloween night, anyway - some requring dealer service, and automaker fluids and parts for every maintenance item for the duration of the policy. Under Moss-Magnuson, true warranties can not be that restrictive.
  • scoti1scoti1 Posts: 676
    I would pursue this with Toyota corporate offices and not the local dealership or the extended warranty company. If you did maintain your vehicle as specified, this should not have happened. Toyota's extended policy for the earlier models only required proof of one oil change per year and had unlimited miles. I would push that they offer the same to you. Toyota claims to have made some modifications to the engines in 2002, but I believe they were considered to be minor. There was a "sludge hotline" number to call that you may be able to find in the links I posted previously. Not sure if they are still active, but I would start there. Good luck. I would like to hear how it goes, so keep us posted.
  • The car is a 1997 toyota camry V6, automatic. Bought it in 2001 with 110k on it and now it's about 148k. It always drive fine never a problem with that.

    Last year it got a check engine light and after 1 hour fiddling I got lucky and found a bad vacuum switching valve. After replacing it, it's being ok for half year.

    Since Jan. this year, the check engine light came on intermittently and I got a code of PO773. Now it's getting worse and light stays on almost all the time. Now I have 2 codes -- PO772 and PO773. The code reader seems saying the shift solenoid E stuck on.

    Could somebody tell me where is this solenoid? I guess it's not the solenoid valve inside the transmission, which I have to take off the trans. fluid pan to gain access?? Is the solenoid near the end of the shift lever??

    Could somebody direct me where to look first? Any hints are greatly appreciated. And, if it's the solenoid, how much would it cost? Thanks a lot!!!
  • penizzlepenizzle Posts: 104
    P 0773 means there is an electrical prob. It could be some chafted wiring. If you know how to work with wires, you may be able to fix that. As for the access,Unfurtunatly, you have to remove the tranny pan to get to it. First undo the electrical connectors to all the solenoids, ussually just one fat connector on the outside of the tranny. Get a haynes manual for reference. Remove the pan and the filter for access then look at the solenoids, a cylindrical shapeded thing with two bolts holding it on, with some wires around it in the area. Remove the bolts to the solenoid that has an E printed on it. If there is no E, contact the Service dep. at Toyota and they can assist you. Solenoids are about 70 bucks for one. If you want a deal, buy a whole new set of solenoids to prevent from future pobs.
  • Hi, penizzle, Thank you very much for your help!!!

    I checked haynes manual and there are 4 shift solenoids for this tranny (A541E)-- no.1, no.2, SL and SLN. As for electrical problem with them. It seems P0753 is for No.1, P0758 is for No.2 and P1765 is for SLN. So I guess solenoid SL is also called solenoid E ????? (There is no code for SL.)

    I'll check outside wiring first and see if there is anything wrong with the wires. If not I will look inside sometime later, don't have time to do it right away. If I keep driving like this, will I further damage anything?? It seems everything is normal, including gas mileage, if you don't look at that nasty yellow light. :)))

    However I couldn't imaging how a wire could be damaged inside the tranny. I changed the tranny fluid strainer 4 years ago but I'm sure I was very careful with the stuff inside.

    Thanks again!!! And any input is welcome!!
  • penizzlepenizzle Posts: 104
    If there aren't shifting problems, then you dont have a problem. It could have been a quirk in the computer. Reset the light and see if it comes back. If you drive with it like that , there shouldn't be a problem (espesialy if there isn't a solenoid E) :P

    As for the wire, It could get damaged. The heat inside the transmission is really hard on tranny parts. Heat is the main cause of tranny failure.
  • That sounds better!!! :)

    The check engine light goes off then back on in the past a couple of days. Now it's off again. I don't have a code reader to reset the code.

    Something is wrong, maybe not serious. I'll try to find a time to do a painful wiring check. :cry:
  • I just repaired the head gasket on my 99 4 cyl camry. The mechanic replaced all the seals and gaskets and says the engine is as good as new except for the 117K miles already on it. So, I don't want to have this problem again. They said that is was a small oil like into the gasket because the seals were old and starting to show wear with stress point where there was probably a leak causing some and a little over heating. I am now using a Castrol high mileage oil when I change the oil myself (99% of the time). I only have the mechanic change to oil at key inspection times. Should I change the oil I use or do I need to switch to synthetic. Some feedback would definitely help. I get my car back tomorrow.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    IMO, synthetic is unnecessary if you change the oil frequently enough (5000 miles or 6 months, whichever comes first).

    I don't think the brand is all that important either (see ray_hi's post #765 above), but I use name brands like Havoline (Texaco), Mobil, or Formula Shell. However, be sure the oil is of the correct viscosity (5W-30 for the Camry 4-cylinder, 1997-2006).
  • Thanks for the info. Just got a call from the mechanic, and he thinks the previous mechanic damaged some parts that caused the problem with my head gasket. I will find out what was wrong when I go pick up the car later today. I guess I may get some of my $1400 back after all. :) If it is serious, I guess I will take the mechanic to small claims and reveal the shop name when I get confirmation later today.
  • Hi,
    I have a 98 2.2L I4 Camry. Yesterday when I drive it, the engine died and failed to start suddently. Two hours later, after AAA staff come to towl it, they found that the battery works fine and the engine work again. However after driving for around 30 meters on the road the engine died again.

    Does anyone have any ideas on what may be causing this problem?

    Now I am very scared to get the car die on the road again.

    Thanks so much!
  • When the car was towed to a car shop, the tech can't repeat or detect the problem. Initially they suggest to replace the battery, but finally they used back it because they think that battery is ok.
  • yankeryanker Posts: 156
    The 97 in question has just under 100 000 miles and we have added smoke treatment from the auto parts store. Is this serious and what should ultimately happen in the way of repairs Also is it common?
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    It's very common as I understand. Our former '97 4-cylinder had it twice. The first time, at 57K miles, the valve stem seals were replaced in the nick of time under the powertrain warranty.

    Then it happened again at 102K miles -- blue smoke on cold startup (first thing in the morning). I didn't do anything about it this time. I sold the car at 111K miles and disclosed the problem.

    I think it can be ignored as long as it only happens on a cold start. Plus, it shouldn't affect emissions testing.

    I doubt the smoke treatment will be helpful.
  • Hello to all;

    Heading back to the dealer for the 4th time. Had a oil leak associated with the timing chain cover. After a tidy sum thought it was good as new...It has continued to leak all be it less each return trip....Anyone have a similar experience....It is still making a 2 to 3 inch circle every night.....I haven't seen any related discussion....Joe
  • Jack,
    I have 97 2.2 L engine. My car also died on the road yesterday. Can you please tell what was diagonosed with your car?

    Thanks
    Anand
  • bildowbildow Posts: 100
    Change the starter and also have some one check the alternator to see if it is putting out enough voltage and amperage, some time the schrader diodes go bad causing the alternator not to fully charge only a limited charge. The only other possibility is if you start and stop your car several times a day on short trips and dont get on the road for a 20 minutes every so often you could be pulling the battery down from a lot of starts and not re charging the battery by driving the car enough.
  • Hello, All,

    I just registered to seek advice from you. This morning on my way to work, the engine revved up to 5500 rpm when I accelerated from a local road to a state highway. The engine kept running at 5000 rpm with loud noice if I maintained at 60 miles/hr. This has never happened before, I used to see it at 2900 rpm @ 60 miles/hr. I am wondering if you guys know what the problem might be? What need to be done to fix it? It appears that I have to visit an auto shop next week, but I want to get educated here before I visit the auto shop.

    BTW, I drove a 2002 Toyota Camry with ~70k miles now. Thanks for your help!

    Brian
  • My problem is with my 2001 Toyoto Camry I have only about 31,600 miles, just last week i had front flexible pipe and catalytic converter replaced,corrosion(i live in Montreal, Canada,our winters are deadly and so is salt:) I saw old unit and i could see for myself the corrosion.This seems unusal for a 6yr old car but consider our winters. A day or two later i experienced vibrations in engine especially when i am stopped in drive and brake pedal down,you can feel and hear it. This seems somewhat coincidental that this problem arose after replacing front flexible pipe and CAT-converter doesn't it? My buddy seems to think it is engine mount problem,i know there is one right beside the manifold,the bigger one and another mount on top which is smaller.The fact that one of the engine mounts is close to manifold and Cat converter may be significant.Perhaps they forget to bolt something,or something is rubbing against it.My buddy said it is unlikely it is the bigger engine mount as there is a good bit of space between the two and there would be no need to unloosen mount to get at front flexible and Cat-converter when they replaced it. Can you help me post this message on line ??
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