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Toyota Camry Engine Related Questions

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Comments

  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Probably redlined it to see how it would rev up.

    You just convinced me to always ride with whoever is test driving whatever I'm selling.
  • djm2djm2 Posts: 705
    Hi mike215:
    The sound that you are hearing is the resonance of the pipes in the exhaust system from the flow of the exhaust gases. The Honda Van had this problem in 2006 / 2007 on some vehicles. (The fix was to change a pipe in the exhaust system.) Has this vehicle had this problem since it was new? If the answer to this question is "NO," (and no part of the exhaust system has been replaced), check the condition of the exhaust components. You might have a leak in the exhaust system, or one of the component connections might be loose, so as such, it can vibrate with the speed of the engine.
    Best regards. ----- Dwayne :shades: ;) :)
  • I am pretty sure the humming is not from the exhaust pipe. Because the noise is from the front side of the cabin or I should say from the engine compartment. It appears at very low rpm (around 2000 rpm) and the noise sounds very low in the frequency. This noise appeared since the car was new, and I also checked the exhaust system from underneath of the car. So I eliminated the possibility which comes from the resonance of the pipe.
  • I checked for leaks and any loose connections. Everything looks good. I have had this problem since the car was new. Maybe this will help - The noise isn't there when the car is cold. It only starts to be heard as the engine reaches it's normal opperating temperature. Thanks for all suggestions. I would still like to solve this mystery. I do feel it's coming from the exhaust system some how.
  • I found this message on Web...anyone know how to contact Toyota OR Lexus to have them perform this work? Anyone did it and have dealer honor it?

    Any thoughts on this car and this problem?

    Gas mileage, timing belt issues, dependability...127K miles

    Lexus has issued an 8 year unlimited mileage goodwill repair for this condition

    Occasional problems on this vehicle are failures of the Air Fuel Ratio Sensors, Evaporative (EVAP) Emission system and the Engine. Failure of Air Fuel Ratio Sensors and EVAP system will cause the Check Engine Light to illuminate. The common failure of the Engine is excessive oil usage caused by engine oil gelling. However, when proper maintenance schedules for oil changes are followed, oil gelling should not occur. The cost to repair the Air Fuel Ratio Sensors is estimated at $377.31 each for parts and $65.00 for labor. The cost for parts to repair the EVAP system can range from $88.00 - $350.00 while labor can range from $19.50 - $65.00. The cost to repair the Engine is estimated at $4,500.00 for parts and $1,514.50 for labor. All prices are estimates based on $65.00 per flat rate hour and do not include diagnostic time
  • Am thinking about purchasing a 1996 Camry LE 4 cyl that has been advertised as having some minor lifter noise. Traveling up to 150 miles on a trip appears to be no problem, but much longer distances is definitely problematic. Any idea if this is an issue that can be inexpensively resolved or should I keep looking?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I think you already know to keep looking.
  • I went to a shop for a diagnostic because my check engine light was on. I went to the autozone before and got the code as P0306, cylinder 6 misfire.
    First of all the shop didn't give me an estimate before they went ahead and fixed the car. They first told me on the phone that it would cost $317. Then after I went to get my car they brought it down to 270. It was $90 for parts, and 3 hr labor totaling of 180. My friends told me I got ripped. Is that the case?
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    Maybe. Parts price seems okay. Labor time strikes me as high, but if the official "book" time for the labor is 3 hours, then the shop will charge for 3 hours, even if it took the mechanic only 45 minutes or less to do the work. That's unfortunately the way it works in the car repair business. BTW, $60 per hour for labor is also reasonable these days.
  • Hello.

    About 3 months ago I ordered a replacement engine for my '94 2.2 camry. The parts supplier promised me a '93 engine (completely compatible) with about 30.000 miles on it. Well, once the thing was 90% in, the mechanic discovered that the new engine had largely incompatible wiring, including a different ditributor cap and ignition coil, as well as some emissions components that the original engine did not. Being a clueless !@#$%#$, he assumed that what I'd gotten (I ordered the engine, not the mechanic, or I wouldn't have these problems) was a California-emissions engine.

    Eventually he wired the thing all together, but ever since, the car's been eating twice as much gas as it should, and installing a new O2 sensor (this model only has one, not two) didn't make a difference. The fuel-air mixture is far too rich.

    To make a long story short, I recently discovered that the real problem is that 1995 engines were tuned and wired differently to meet more stringent emissions standards in all 50 states, thus the electrical incompatibility. Does anyone know what I would need to do to make this Frankenstein monstrosity work correctly? Would installing a '95 ECU do the trick? Can the '94 ECU just be tricked in order to quit @#@$ing up the fuel mixture?

    Thanks for any help.
  • 6sigma16sigma1 Posts: 1
    Is Mobil Formula 1 Synthetic motor oil a good oil for 2007 Toyota Camry? What do you recommend as a good motor oil for Camry?
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,668
    Just stick with a good dino, like Castrol GTX 5w-20. No need for synthetic. Follow the owner's manual, unless you do lots of very short trips (under 5 miles). Then, I would change more often.
  • I have a 2005 with about 82000 miles on it. It has been a great car with no problems to speak of. The only problem is two things that might be related.
    a) When I crank the car and it is cold, there is a lot of engine noise. It sounds as though something is lose of something. There is usually a distinct sound when I hit the gas pedal and the car is cold. The sound seems to go away when the car is warmed up.
    b) My second problem began the other day. When I'm at highway speeds and hit the gas to pass someone or something a funny noise occurs. Sometimes when the transmission downshifts, I hear a loud vibrating noise that doesn't last for long. I haven't heard this sound but a few times.

    Im hoping that I can resolve these issues because I love my camry and want to keep it for many years/miles to come.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Regarding the engine noise, you need to determine whether the noise is from inside the engine, or external to the engine in one of the accessories (which is typically the case). The best way to do this, is to take off the accessory belt, and then start the car. If the noise is gone, then you know the problem is one of the bearings in one of the accessories. If the noise is still there, then you have potential engine problems that you need to get looked at. Assuming the noise goes away and is an accessory, turn the engine off, and then with your hand turn each of the accessories and feel for whether there is binding and or looseness in the pulley. Replace the item that is bad.

    Regarding the vibrating noise.....this could be related to the above problem, or could be a different problem, perhaps with the CV joints. I'd fix the first problem, and see if that makes the symptoms of the 2nd problem go away.
  • Don't think that it is an accessory because this sound only occurs when it is cold. It makes a quick high pitched sound on throttle only when the car has just been started.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Check the accessories and pulleys, those are the normal items that wear before the engine internals.
  • jamieb2jamieb2 Posts: 2
    This car is in great shape and properly maintained by the dealer in which it was purchased new. The purchased extended warranty purchased, expired at 75,000 miles. On 3/5/08 at aprox 8:00pm we noticed a puddle of what we thought to be coolant under the car. Car running fine. We took it to the dealer, aprox 3 miles away at 7:30 am on 3/6/08. When pulling into the dealer is when the engine temp gage went high for the first time. This was noted to the service dept. We expected to hear later in the day that a hose was replaced, only to hear THE ENGINE IS BLOWN AT 88,000 miles. We were told the engine heated up and sheared off a bolt. Rare, but the were aware of it, it is a defect.. Toyota will pay for the parts but we must pay the labor. $2500.00. First, if it is a defect, why do we have to pay for anything, yes it is over the 75,000 mile warranty, but a defect. And, labor at this dealer is $95.00 an hour. Does it take 25 hours to replace an engine? Is there a consumer posting on how long is the expected time on a job? Watch for recalls and class actions.
  • jamieb2jamieb2 Posts: 2
    we have a 2003 camry which we loved until yesterday. 88,000 miles, running great, until we noticed what we thought to be, coolant under the car. We took it to the dealer yesterday to find out it is a blown engine. They said it is a defect. This had no warning at all until the leak. The car ran great, no noise at all. Ask your dealer to check it out so you dont run into this, but Im not sure what they can do to prevent it. It was a fluke I guess. They said it was a defect. Toyota will pay for the parts but we must pay for the labor $2500.00!!!!! I am still checking on this issue.
    Keep an eye out for recalls.
  • dtingledtingle Posts: 1
    The manifold glows red hot on my camry. I just replaced both converters on it and it still glows red hot. I have been told that it could be the timing, but my garage ran it on the computer and said that it looked fine. Any suggestions as to why it is so hot.
  • lmacmillmacmil Posts: 1,756
    You get an initial free warranty and optionally buy an extended warranty to cover manufacturing defects. You appear to want an additional warranty against defects for free. Doesn't work that way. You got probably $3000 or more in goodwill by not having to pay for the engine. Legally Toyota was not required to do that.

    In 1997, my Chrysler minivan A604 transmission failed at 96,000 miles which was 20k miles beyond the powertrain warranty. This failure had been thoroughly documented in the automotive press as caused by a design defect and many people had been fully or partially compensated beyond the warranty period, including a friend of mine whose tranny failure at similar mileage just a few months before mine. Despite providing extensive documentation of this, I got bupkis. The only satisfaction I got was sending the last person who rejected my plea a picture of my wife standing beside her new Ford Explorer.

    Good luck.
  • 5227mena5227mena Posts: 1
    I had the exact same problem with my 2003 toyota camry, but the dealer ship told me that there is no defect or recall. There telling me I need a new engine that is going to cost me 11,000.00. I still have 8,000.00 to pay on my car. Can you give me more info regarding this defect. I would really appreciate it.

    Carless in CA :sick:
  • sram3sram3 Posts: 2
    Hi
    I have a 1998 Camry LE 4 cyl with 180,000 miles on it. I had a problem recently with the engine in my car. I was driving my car fine and smooth until one fine day when my car suddenly started making a “clanking noise” inside the engine when I was on the road. The harder I pressed the gas pedal, the more noise it generated. And at one point,, the engine just died and the car stopped. I had to tow it to the garage, but after an hour’s gap, I was able to drive it (again, but with the same clanking noise) slowly into the garage from the tow truck. The technician says some “connecting rod” (connects to camshaft or something) inside the engine “broke” . He tried fixing it but concluded that the engine is shot and it’s not possible to fix it. He said my car is junk now and did not provide any more details about what caused it. I don’t know much about car parts, So, I am not sure whether this gives a clear picture of the problem. Here are my questions :
    1. Is it possible to tell just by the symptoms mentioned above the engine is indeed “shot”?
    2. If the engine is indeed shot, is it sensible to go for a rebuilt engine? Technician says Camry engines are expensive and it is not worth trying to go that route. He says I should rather go for a used car instead of trying to fix this car.
    3. How much will it cost to fit in a rebuilt engine into the Camry (including parts and labor)?

    Please advise. Thanks for your help in advance!!
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    If a connecting rod broke, then the engine is basically toast. A connecting rod, as its name implies, connects each piston (4 in your case) to the crankshaft.

    I'd suggest looking for another car, as your Camry is not worth fixing with that many miles and years on it. A ballpark estimate for a replacement engine is $5,000 at least. You could certainly find a decent used car for that price.

    But I'd get a second opinion before proceeding because your mechanic sounds too vague.
  • sram3sram3 Posts: 2
    About getting a second opinion.... I have a question that might sound stupid but lemme ask you anyways...
    The car is currently parked at my home. Would it be possible for a mechanic to identify whether the engine is indeed toast by coming home and taking a look inside the hood? Or do I have to tow it back to a garage again to get the second opinion?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    If he brings with him a compression tester and some basic tools, he can check whether it has compression in all cylinders. If a connecting rod is broke, that piston won't move up and down, and there won't be any compression in that cylinder.

    However, the fact that you indicate the engine was clacking like that is the sound of something drastic, and you should have stopped driving immediately to have any chance at all of minimizing the damage. Continuing to run the engine could make it substantially worse, and you may now have metal shavings and parts all over your engine. With the connecting rod broke, it could actually break thru the block or pan and dump oil and/or cooling fluid all over the place. You could have a real mess if not careful.

    Your description and scenario has all of the symptoms of the engine being toasted. At that mileage, you got your money out of it. It's tired, put it out of it's misery in the giant scrap heap in the sky. You could see if the local high school wants it to let the kids tear the engine down.
  • tony108tony108 Posts: 16
    Hello;

    My 2007 Camry CE with 2.4 4cyl engine makes a slight engine noise (knock) every morning when it's cold (around 18 to 28f ). It's noticeable during idle and mild acceleration, until the engine is fully warmed up. Then it's barely noticeable when the needle at the temp gauge is almost at the middle. It sounds like a valve noise or a slight knock. I know that the sound is not coming from any where outside the engine (i.e drive belts, alt, or a/c compressor.) Oil has been changed regularly since new at the dealer every 4-5k miles, then I switched to mobil 1 synthetic 5-20 since 32,000 miles (I still change the oil every 4-5k miles) because I have read in this forum about the sludge issues that toyota engines have encountered and wanted to have the extra protection that synthetic offers. It now has 46,000 miles.

    I'm wondering if I should wait until the noise worsens so I could let the dealer hear it because they might just ignore me or say that it's "normal" when I go there especially when it only happens during cold starts and it would be fully warmed up when I get there. I have an extended warranty of up to 75,000 miles.

    Hopefully somebody out there could give me a good advice and shed some light on this matter if you have experienced the same symptoms.

    thanks,
    tony
  • after about 6,000 miles my 4 cyl engine started making a louder noise than it did when it was new. when going from zero to overdrive it sounds like a hollow noise. when it clicks into overdrive the noise is normal.. so when the car is under pressure is when we hear the noise. i had it checked out by the toyota dealer and he said it was normal and was always there. i disagree. my wife who is not a car person hears it and it was not there in the beginning.
    the engine performs o.k.expect for the above.
    is anyone having a similar problem?
  • i own a camry year 1999 auto with a mileage of 246000. I'm keen to improve my car engine perfomance . I also noticed that the car engine feels'heavier' with reduced acceleration when the air cond is on. Can anyone help???
  • mm9mm9 Posts: 3
    I read a user's review on CarsDirect.com (didn't specify what year Camry model he had), and he said:

    "I test drove the V6LE to see if the available power was more pronounced than the 4 cyl. Well it was, but it always had a delay in response (1-2 seconds). Most cars other cars that I have driven have an immediate response when I "jump on it". I depend on this response when I encounter a situation that requires it."

    Has this been your experience as well? thanks!
  • i posted a thread a couple of days ago about my 2009 camry xle 4 cyl. engine. i do not know if you saw it, but when it was new it was great. after about 6,000 miles when feeding gas from 0 to around 40 there is a humming/hollow noise. i took it to the dealer and they said it was normal and the noise was always there and we just did not notice it. wrong, my wife is not a car buff and she heard it also. something changed. the car performs great and gives good gas mileage.
    to answer your question, i drive for the local toyota dealer delivering new cars for them. the 6 vs. 4 cyl is no comparision. the 6 has 262 horsepower 160 for the 4 cyl. the 6 is a rocket ship and i have not noticed any delay in response. if anyone can help with my problem i would be happy.
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